I’ll be honest and say that I initially didn’t peg Milan as a city of books, but I was glad to be proven wrong when I found myself surrounded by a strong bibliophilic culture. It seemed as though they’d built the whole city around its love of literature – from book cafes to little libreria-slash-hostels even to tea-ware houses filled with novels on love and art and meditation!

Over the course of my time in Milan, I must have visited dozens upon dozens of bookshops – or at least, little negozi which also happened to be stuffed full with books. As such, I decided to curate the perfect bookshop tour of Milan – and it only takes an hour and a half to walk from one end to the other! Please, save your dedicated praises until later.

ANNAMARIA FUMAGALLI

First of all, I want to quickly mention my favourite person in Milan. I met Annamaria Fumagalli on my first full day in the city, and let me tell you, I sure am glad that I did. She is an official licensed guide for GITEC (the Association of Italian Guides for Tourism and Culture), and was the perfect person to introduce us to the city.

She was so warm, friendly, and welcoming, that it felt simply as though I was meeting up with my grandmother. Effortlessly Milanese with her fashionable mirrored glasses and a vintage red dress, she was the know-all-end-all for the the finest places to visit in the city. When we met up, her words brought Milan to life, offering local insight and gossip whilst pointing out things such as the Sforzesco Castle, the Duomo, the fashion district, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

She pointed out little things that we would blindly have ignored, and told us about how the city has changed over the years (and more recently, due to coronavirus) – little tidbits that really made the city feel more alive and personal. One of my highlights from my time with Annamaria was when she treated us to a typical Milanese coffee inside of the beautiful Camparino, where we shared anecdotes from our lives and gazed at the beautiful architecture  and tile-work around us.

We left knowing a lot more about the city and it’s rich history, tummies full of strong Italian coffee from the best bar in Lombardi, and several handpicked brochures that Annamaria presented us. After the tour, I asked her if she could recommend any bookshops in the local area, and as it turns out, there was a helluva lot. It was from these suggestions that this book tour really came to life – without her local insight, we would absolutely have missed out on some of the gems that really shaped our trip. And so for that, thank you Annamaria – this post wouldn’t exist without you.

KATHAY

I think that Kathay has to be the best place to start a bookshop tour – and not just because it is genuinely my favourite place in the city (which also happens to be in my favourite area). Whilst not technically a ‘bookshop,’ Kathay is a kind of all-purpose store, featuring delicious culinary goods, intricately detailed homeware, and the most concentrated amount of tea-ware I have ever seen in my life. I felt exactly like a kid in a candy store, surrounded by gorgeous matcha bowls, beautiful displays of Chinese gaiwans on vintage green tables, and endless books on Korean cooking, Feng Shui, kombucha, reiki, and the art of tea – along with every other cool subject you could possibly learn about. I’m not being dramatic when I say that I could quite easily have spent the whole day there, wandering through the isles and running my fingers across the fine china. Never have I been so tempted to buy out a whole store before – and it’s definitely the first place to welcome yourself into the city.

TEMPO RITROV LIBRI

Meaning ‘Time Rediscovered Books,’ this adorable little libreria is filled with black and white framed photos of old film stars, magazines on African food and travel photography, and of course, a comprehensive collection of independent books by small publishers. They have the cutest collection of Children’s illustrated travel books, including intricately designed copies of Libro Giungla and Bella e la Bestia.

The owners of the bookshop believe that, ‘especially in Italy, the importance of reading should be affirmed and supported effectively every day. We therefore put ourselves at the service of the city together with the many other independent bookshops born in recent years, and we propose ourselves as a new and further garrison in which everyone can find time for themselves and others by isolating themselves, for a few moments, from a citizen of chaos.’

GIUNTI AL PUNTO

This is one of the many bookstores that I stumbled upon by accident – and boy, am I glad I did. Enticed by the free literary magazine, Il Libraio, drawn in by their many eye-catching discounts (because who doesn’t love a literary classic at 50% off?!), and fully reeled-in by their little knickknack sections full of explorer gear, pretty pens, and stunning notebooks, it was pretty obvious that I wouldn’t be spending less than an hour in the store. Check it out – you’ll soon understand it for yourself.

LIBRERIA DEL MONDO OFFESO

An independent Milanese bookshop, the Libreria del Mondo Offenso also doubles as a cultural centre promoting initiatives and events. The name of the place roughly translates to ‘The Bookshop of the Offended World’, from the book Conversazioni in Sicilia by Elio Vittorini, which is in essence a journey of discovery of an ‘offended world’, forcing one to take responsibility. It is a place to meet, discuss, and dream, in a haven filled with books, storytellers, and passion. They offer contemporary Italian fiction, theatre books, out-of-print novels, poetry, and gorgeous little travel books.

GINORI 1735

Despite the fact that I was stared at incredibly intensely by the shopkeepers the whole time I wandered through the shop (it was just like that infamous shopping scene in Pretty Woman), I still found myself transfixed by the beautiful pieces in front of us. Surrounded by the finest (and presumably most expensive) fine china I have ever seen, beautifully crafted and intricately painted, I felt as though I was in a Julia Gregson book. They are all absolutely beautiful and definitely something to go out of your way to see, even if to merely begin to plan your future living room – even through the intense eye contact from the staff.

The man behind the name, Carlo Ginori, began to manufacture porcelain pieces in 1735 in his workshop in Doccia, Tuscany. It soon spiralled into a prestigious company of luxury home decor objects, where it was run by the same family until 1896, when it was sold to Richard of Milan and the brand was created.

AMERICAN BOOKSTORE

Their website states, ‘Since 1981, the bookstore has been the perfect place for all lovers of American culture, thanks to the American Bookstore’s in-depth literary knowledge and American and English traditions’ – and whilst I’m not the biggest fan of these so-called American and English traditions, I did really like the store.

Their collection of books is pretty impressive, featuring more or less any genre that you could ever need (although as it is an ‘American bookstore’, I would maybe stay away from the cooking section!). Along with English books, they also offer antique prints, ancient maps, and ‘many objects and curiosities of the ancient American tradition – inside our bookshop you will be transported to a world you thought you knew, but which hides a very deep soul.’ They also sell Christmas decorations and American calendars which is pretty hip.

F. PETTINAROLI & FIGLI

Again, this is another one of those not-actually-a-bookshop bookshops – but I loved it so much that I simply had to include it! It’s the cutest little shop filled with matte vintage globes, thick leather-bound notebooks, intricate Victorian-esque ink-writing sets, shiny compasses, endless antique maps of the world, and chunky pieces of cream paper which were covered in sketches by men long gone. It’s a truly beautiful place. Apparently, it also houses the ‘widest’ selection of charts, vintage prints, antique maps of Italy and the world, as well as government charts and globes for enthusiasts and collectors. Pretty cool for a not-bookshop, eh?

MONDADORI BOOKSTORE

Mondadori has a super neat red theme running throughout the store, making it perfect for those much-desired Insta shots. It’s a big and open bookshop, and is filled with glossy modern books, super vibey music, the most passionate staff ever, and a large collection of travel, art, and architecture books. Highly recommend.

LA FELTRINELLI

La Feltrinelli is actually the first bookshop that I spent quality time in in Milan, and I liked it a lot. We stayed here for a couple hours and drank tea, slowly rummaging through their collection of photography books and black-and-white autobiographies, merely letting the world meander on by. Over the next few days, we discovered that there’s actually another Feltrinelli store in the area called La Feltrinelli Express, and a more niche one called La Feltrinelli Libri e Musica. My favourite definitely has to be that first one though, because it was both the first libreria that welcomed us, and also the place where I discovered Cleo Le-Tan (and her father)’s work for the first time. Of course, this one – like many others, was recommended to me by Annamaria. The woman really does know quality bookshops, I tell you.

LIBRERIA BOCCA

The oldest bookshop in Milan, I could have easily have spent a few hours here. The store has the coolest decorations, with postcards and bookmarks hanging down from the ceiling (which has a cool abstract painting on it), and stays true to it’s antique roots with it’s old-fashioned decor and overall feel of the place. The bookshelves start at the floor and wind their way up, brightening up the place with Taschen and Assouline. Located in the middle of the very commercialised Gallerie, this little homely store feels like a secret haven away from the hustle and bustle of the city. It’s filled with art, from the very outside in, and they specialise in books by the most exquisite, famous artists of the past to the more vibrant artists of our current generation, even shedding a light on those teeny little backstreet artists that thrive quietly. It’s a wonderful place to immerse yourself.

HOEPLI INTERNATIONAL BOOKSHOP

Because I couldn’t possibly miss out the largest bookshop in Italy! Housing over 500,000 titles of fiction and non-fiction and everything-in-between-fiction books, they also offer rare antique novels and books in their original languages. There are five floors in this bookish oasis, so there’s plenty of space (and volumes) to lose yourself in – I can promise you that you will come in here with the intention to merely browse and finger a couple copies, but will leave with every book you never knew you needed.

LIBRERIA ANTIGONE

I feel as though we didn’t find the gay bookshop, the gay bookshop found us. It was such a cool place to visit with my girlfriend – the energy was distinctly different to the outside, and it was so warm and welcoming, a real nice atmosphere. The whole aim of the store is to create a safe space free from prejudice for all minorities, sexualities, genders, and everything else; a bookshop built on respect and understanding. It’s a really lovely place to be, and they encourage curiosity and inclusion, with the kindest staff around.

Quoting from their website, ‘the Antigone bookshop wants to be a meeting point, a place for building relationships, intended as the only indispensable tool for the cultural and human growth of one another… aimed at maintaining a safe, pleasant environment [which is] useful, accessible by anyone.’ Now I don’t know about you, but that’s the place that I want to be.

Not only do they have some of the coolest books ever (and magazines, and essays, and educational texts), but I found myself irresistibly drawn to their exquisite magnet selection. And oh, the magnets! Made up of all styles and colours, depicting numerous environments and situations, I frankly wanted them all. Antigone, if you’re reading this, I wouldn’t complain  being sent one!

I never thought that I would find a bookshop dedicated wholly to the dissemination of LGBTQ+ and feminist culture and subcultures, but I am so glad that I did.

MILAN WOMEN’S LIBRARY

Although only recently established (in 1975), the Milan Women’s Library is such a cool place to visit. It’s a non-profit libreria that is both a bookshop and a meeting place, housing film screenings and even political discussions. They have a very comprehensive selection of feminist books, and similar to the Antigone, they are dedicated to the dissemination of multiple media subcultures – and in my personal opinion, there’s nothing quite as sweet as a bookshop that makes you think. The staff are all volunteers, and the place runs on pure love, respect, and passion – which if you think about it, is how every good bookshop should be.

WHERE TO STAY

At night, we stayed at the marvellous Babila Hostel and Bistro. Built in 1895, this former Catholic school is now one of the coolest places to hang out in the heart of the city.

It was such a nice place to spend the evenings, with their big clean kitchen, cosy communal room where we could kick back on the sofas and watch Netflix, and their absolutely beautiful veranda where we could watch the sun set over the city – but, fitting with the theme of the post, the highlight has to be the sheer amount of books they had.

Every corner had a shelf stacked with both antique manuscripts and shiny new novellas, where you could either take one off to the bedroom to read, or swap one of your own loved books for someone else’s loved book. They had travel guides, autobiographies, fictional novels, books on aliens – what else could you possibly need?

Mix this with their incredibly comfortably beds, the complimentary drinks you get on arrival, cool board games and boxes of Jenga, and the pool tables, and you have a place that I probably could have spent a few weeks. They do the most delicious mocktails and breakfasts, too – and all in all, I’m definitely glad I stayed here. I may have had my toothpaste and key stolen, but hey, you win some, you lose some, right?

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Over the past few months, I have found myself devouring travel book after travel book – one week even saw me read eight whole ass novels! Throughout that time, I have stumbled upon some absolute gems that I am super excited to share with you all.

Gulliver’s Travels

Since spotting this tatty, water-drenched Tenth Edition of Gulliver’s Travels in a local old bookstore, it has become one of my most prized possessions.

We all know the premise of the plot: Jack Black is on an assignment in the Bermuda Triangle when a magical vortex transports him to a half-mythical land of teeny tiny people. He falls in love with Emily Blunt, becomes the hero of Lilliput, and all in all, does what Jack Black is best known for: exploration. And honestly, rereading the story now makes me appreciate how even classic literature can feel as complex as modern coursework, the kind many students turn to assignment writing services EssayPro for when things get overwhelming.

As it happens, the original story was originally published in 1726, and as such, the novel plot is a little different to the Hollywood movie. Because of this, some of the writing can be slightly (see: extremely) difficult to navigate – but all in all, it’s a pretty sick story. It’s one of those novels that grabs your heart strings even when you don’t know your thou from your thy.

Around India in 80 Trains

There’s no doubt that Monisha Rajesh is one of the best living British travel writers, known for her borderline obsession with the beauty of train travel. Of course, Around India in 80 Trains is one of her most iconic train memoirs – and easily one of my favourite travel books.

I first read this book whilst in the first ever lockdown, desperate to escape the Welsh winter to somewhere new and exciting. As you can expect, a book about India really hit that nail on the head, and I immediately fell in love with the world of milky chai, dusty sunshine, and Mumbai’s infamous commuter trains.

After having left India in 1993, Monisha decides to return to her old home. Along the way, she meets a kaleidoscope of characters who help her to uncover the reason why the railways are considered the ‘lifeline that keeps India’s heart beating’. She wants nothing more than for these 80 train journeys to lift the veil on a country that has become a stranger to her.

Monisha is one of the most down to earth travellers there is, and I love how honest and genuine she is within this book. She meets the coolest people in the most incredible places, and it truly is a beautiful travel memoir to get lost in. I devoured it in hours, and then promptly moved over to ordering her latest book.

Round Ireland with a Fridge

Whilst researching other walking adventures for my Walking Wales Expedition, I came across this book. It’s funny, upbeat, and lowkey relatable, and is a great way to alight your heart with a little flicker of adventure. The whole premise is pretty wacky – as the title suggests, it really is just some bloke wandering round Ireland with a fridge – and just goes to show that all you need is passion, drive, and a little bit of ingenuity.

The Lost City of Z

Quite unbelievably, this book is based on the true story of Percy Fawcett, an old-era explorer who ventured into the forest to find his El Dorado, only to never return. As such, the premise of the novel is the author of this book following in Fawcett’s footsteps to uncover the hidden city of gold.

It’s one heck of a story, as the author contacts Fawcett’s living relatives (Wales represent!) and scours through his old travel journals, along with even winding up in ‘El Dorado’ himself…

Tazmamart

Oh my goodness, where do I possibly begin?

Tazmamart is a truly devastating book illustrating the 18 years that Aziz BineBine spent locked in a secret political prison; with death, disease, and desolation shadowing his every move. I wrote a full-length review on this book for the New Welsh Review, and honestly, have been unable to forget about the book since. It’s burrowed deep into my skin, and I still can’t shake the experiences that BineBine led me through throughout the course of this book.

The book reads like a piece of poetry. The imagery and sheer detail woven into the book is as impressive as it is mesmerising, as the fact that BineBine still remembers the exact treatment they received each week, the precise death dates of the inmates, and everyone’s complex life stories after so many years is truly incredible. The telling of his experience is interlaced with references to other literature, religion, and philosophical ideals, rendering it so much more than just an autobiography.

It’s the most heartbreaking book I have ever read, and honestly, I believe that BineBine is one of the most inspiring people to have lived.

On the Front Line with the Women Who Fight Back

This is a harrowing, inspiring book that shows the incredible strengths that women possess and the feats they undergo on a daily basis all around the world.

Stacey Dooley is a popular documentary host who goes out of her way to show British viewers the most incredible, shocking, and outrageous parts of life – and in this book, she details the incredible women she has met along the way. It offers an insight to the behind the scenes of her popular documentaries, and introduces a personal side to Dooley’s best-loved interviewees.

The Road to Oxiana

The Road to Oxiana was first published in 1937, and is considered to be the ‘first example of great travel writing’ – and as such, it can serve as a great example to fellow travel writers.

Oxiana is a region along Afghanistan’s northern border, and the book details Robert Byron’s ten-month journey to the Middle East. It’s an interesting book which talks about a lost and now almost unattainable form of travelling, and an insight into lives long gone.

As Paul Fussell once wrote, ‘The Road to Oxiana is to the travel book what Ulysses is to the novel between the wars.’ If that doesn’t convince you, then I don’t know what will.

Adventures of a Young Naturalist

Adventures of a Young Naturalist delves into further detail of Attenborough’s first ever expedition. In 1954, he was offered the opportunity of a lifetime, travelling the world finding rare and elusive animals for London Zoo’s collection – and oh boy, what an adventure it was.

Of course, David Attenborough is one of the sweetest souls on the planet, and his book summarises everything that Britain loves about him. The honesty in the way he writes, and the methods in which he documents meeting people – it all comes together to be a book that is so thoroughly Attenborough.

Stranger to the Desert

Stranger to the Desert is easily one of the best travel books ever written, and yet hardly anyone even knows about it. It’s almost impossible to find out information about the author – Dorothy Ross – which is as surprising as it is a shame. Honestly, she seemed like a sick woman, and there should be more information about her.

This book was written in the 1950s, and follows Dorothy as she marries a cowboy and moves to the wild, wild West. It’s absolutely hilarious, and I love everything that she has to say – even if it is a little disjointing at times (with the blatant sexism and racism that was prevalent at the time and thus in her writing).

The Book of Exploration

Quite possibly the best book detailing the most infamous and loved explorers of all time, this book zooms through the ages to talk about the people who have helped shape society and adventure into what it is today.

I largely use this as a reference book and as something to curl up with every now and then, drinking a fat cup of tea and jotting down endless notes. It’s super interesting to learn more about the world’s top explorers – and I have it on a table for guests to flick through when they enter my room, really drawing the whole adventure aesthetic together.

And so, have you guys read any of these books, or now plan on doing so? If so, which one do you think would be your favourite? Let me know in the comments below!

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I don’t know about you, but there’s nothing as sweet as walking into a beautiful bookstore where the staff welcome you home and you’re surrounded by wonderful books, new and old, packed with all the beauty in the world. The storm allowed me to really get to know these bookstores, and find my own little haven in Basel.

THE BEYELER FOUNDATION

The Beyeler Foundation is, in essence, an art museum, but with a comprehensive collection of books. It’s a super pretty gallery with gorgeous exhibitions featuring big names such as Goya and Hopper, interspersed with pieces by small-town local painters. The best bit of the whole place has to be their massive gift shop with the ma-hoosive collection of art books to purchase – glossy, high-quality books, in which the sales then go back into the cost of running the gallery itself. There’s this one part of the gallery where glass encompasses you as you sit on plush sofas looking outside, with books stacked in every corner of the room. It’s a very serene and relaxing place, and a beautiful way to spend the afternoon – especially when that golden sun shines in.

MÜELLER PALERMO

Müeller Palermo feels like a gallery with the pristine white walls and the shelves filled with gorgeous images, but it is actually just a very gorgeous Basel bookstore. Apparently they do events here, too, but unfortunately we didn’t have the time to experience one (although they look like a lot of fun; so vibrant and welcoming and filled with the best people – book people). They have beautiful window displays, showcasing textured Japanese paper, books made of cloud, and postcards depicting every utopia on earth. What more could you want?

CAFÉ CON LETRAS

When I first touched down in Basel, one of my friends from Canada suggested that I visit the Café con Letras – a super cool bookstore-cum-cafe that serves a wide array of beverages and baked goods, along with hosting entertainment in the evenings. The whole place is super cool, with gorgeous paintings on the wall and art books covering the shelves, and the fact that it’s located just off the Rheingasse 69 is pretty ideal for visiting the Natural History Museum or taking a stroll by the water afterwards.

B&B LIBROS

I’m not quite sure what the deal is here, but can only assume that along with having all of these gorgeous books, they’re also a cool place to stay. They have this super interesting bit where a selection of sketches hang from the ceiling surrounded by books, paintings, and succulents, and it’s such a restorative place to visit. It’s a little messy, but in that lived-in, loved-in sorta vibe. And as I’m sure you know, the best places always are.

LIBELLE MIT H&B

This place pretty much has everything! Unfortunately we weren’t able to spend a lot of time here, but the time that we spent browsing and quickly meandering around the shop was a lot of fun. Their windows are always gorgeous and often colour-co-ordinated, and when you walk into the shop it seems to blossom open, with layers upon layers of floors dedicated to books, all featured around the book square in the middle. It’s so beautiful, and with tens of thousands of books available, it’s a pretty convenient place to be a bibliophile. They have a bunch of books dedicated to ‘Helvetica’ – the female national personification of Switzerland, along with artwork and photography, and graphic sheets and posters, and it comes together to be pretty beautiful.

ANTIQUARIAT GERBER

Where do I even begin? The Antiquariat Gerber is full of seemingly millions of volumes on literature, art, photography, and architecture, and the shop genuinely feels as though you’ve walked into a bibliophile version of Ollivander’s. They have the most beautiful old books with burgundy spines and intricate typefaces, and wonderful framed paintings and sketches. The guy behind the desk was super nice and welcoming, and pointed us out to the English volumes when we stared confusedly at books in German. The posters and artwork decorating the walls are beautiful and really tie the whole place together, and if I’m allowed to be a little biased, this is probably my favourite Basel bookstore out of them all. We spent so long here just merely looking at the books, and it was wonderful.

ARCADOS

I’ll be honest with you, I really wasn’t expecting to run into a gay book store whilst out and about in Basel, but boy, am I glad I did. Their books are so, so gorgeous, with beautiful covers on books such as A Thing of Beauty and The Art of Looking. It’s so nice to run into a welcoming, inclusive little store when you expect it the least, and the fact that the bookstore is run by Peter Thommen, a 70 year old gay activist, only makes the whole thing ten times cooler.

BIDER AND TANNER

Bider and Tanner has the same vibe as a Swiss Waterstones, but on a less mass-produced scale. We spent hours here when our flight home got pushed back by one day, and then two, and then three, and we spent so much time just lounging around here and reading about tea and food and travel. It’s a pretty cool place with one helluva collection, and you’re sure to find something that works for you. Also called ‘Basel’s culture house,’ the bookstore also sells music by Swiss artists.

Can you believe that this blog post is the only relatively comprehensive post on the whole internet about bookstores in Basel? We’re out here making history, people.

Basel truly is one of my favourite places in the world for food, views, and, of course, books. Have any of y’all visited Basel before, or any of these bookstores? More importantly, which ones do you crave walking through the door of? Let me know in the comments below!

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The book is full of interesting stories, personal experiences, and horrifying facts, all blended together with Wood’s effortless writing and clear love for the African Elephant. It details just how remarkable these creatures are, and if I’m being honest, it seems as though the only reason that elephants have managed to survive for so long is due to their sheer ability to adapt and overcome. When they are facing incredible heat waves, they can dilate and constrict the blood vessels in their massive ears, cooling the blood by approximately three degrees. When one set of teeth becomes worn down, another of their six sets will move forward to replace it. The only obstacle that elephants cannot get over, it seems, is human interference.

In regards to the ivory industry, it is suggested that 20,000 elephants are killed each year for their tusks, seemingly to the point of no return. If we continue poaching at the current rate, future generations will have no clue as to what an African Elephant even was. Wood tells the story of a filmmaker who spent four years in Tsavo recording an elephant called Satao, who would hide his massive tusks as he walked. Satao travelled by zigzagging between bushes and shoving his head and tusks into each bush as he reached them, suggesting that he was aware of the dangers of owning tusks. Studies have shown that elephants are actually evolving to have smaller tusks, or to be born without any tusks at all – which is actually pretty awful, as elephants use their tusks to dig for water in droughts, lift heavy objects, and pull back the bark from trees to consume (which ultimately creates houses for smaller animals such as lizards, keeping the biodiversity flourishing). It seems as though humans are forcing these elephants into an even tighter rut by being the root cause of this evolution.

Wood talks a lot about the roles that males and females play in elephant society, making it glaringly obvious just how similar to us they are. Matriarchs are everything within the society, being the key to the survival of the rest of the species. They are the ones responsible for making the decisions for the rest of the herd, educating young elephants on how to take care of the young, which males to avoid, and how to entice a mate with a walk called ‘oestrus.’ They pass down knowledge about predators, the best places to get water in a drought, and where to take the young on play dates, so that they grow up to be social, intelligent, well-integrated members of society.

Elephant calves spend around 22 months in the womb, and go through very long periods of childhood simply because they have so much to learn. A young elephant is brought up with so much love and support from its family members – mothers and sisters adjusting the vegetation around or the sleeping position of a youngster to make them more comfortable, and protecting them with their lives against predators and threats – that it’s hard to see them as anything but the caring, intelligent, empathetic creatures they are. When eating around young elephants, older elephants are known to eat from higher branches so that they can still get enough food, often prioritising the health of the children and the vulnerable over themselves. Wood mentions one experience he had when he was watching two males play fighting in Kenya, noticing that one of the bulls was crippled. In response, the other bull had gotten down on his knees to play, staying like that for the duration of the game – literally to level the field. 

This care and awareness doesn’t just affect other elephants. Wood talks about the story of a man called Lawrence, who had slowly built a relationship with an elephant called Nana. This elephant trusted and respected him so much that when she bore a child she took it to him so he could see it. In turn, when he had a child, he took it to her family, and they responded by trumpeting in joyous unison and throwing their trunks in the air to smell the scent. It seems that they understand and feel a lot more than humans could ever fully understand.

Elephants are known for being very intelligent – they have great cognitive skills, and can recognise different groups of people just by their scent and sound. Wood talks about one particular experiment where the Amboseli elephants were presented with red coloured cloths worn either by a Maasai warrior (who occasionally spear elephants) and a local Kamba man, and they could determine the difference between the two people by their smell, rapidly fleeing the area and heading to an area of greater cover when presented with cloths from the Maasai. Similarly, they can recognise people by sound, and when recordings of these two groups of people speaking in their native language were played around the elephants, their response was heightened when listening to Maasai men speaking in their native languages. This reaction was specific to the age and sex of the warrior, with far less fear shown towards woman and boys than adult men.

The main reasons that elephants are dying out so rapidly are heavy poaching for ivory, loss of habitats and conflict with people over land use, and manipulation of populations by humans. As the world’s human population has doubled in the last fifty years, and more than trebled in Africa, one of the biggest threats to habitat is the encroachment of human societies. Africa’s population will double again in the next thirty years, and it will soar to 4.4. billion people by the end of the century. By contrast, the population of African Elephants has fallen by more than 90% in a little over one century.

The Last Giants: The Rise and Fall of the African Elephant is the sort of book that leaves you feeling haunted, vividly aware of the goings on in the world around you, and yet still shocked that we could have allowed this to happen. Honestly, it’s a pretty horrifying read, pointing out how undeniable it is that humans are to blame for their mass demise. Elephants are such intelligent, beautiful, and complex creatures, and it’s very disappointing that we’ve allowed this to happen. Luckily, there are some things we can do.

Starting with charities such as Tusk, we can make sure that these organisations that are prioritising the preservation of these creatures are being promoted and supported as much as possible. We can avoid zoos and boycott circuses that use live elephants in their performances, and steer clear of the purchasing of ivory. But the most important thing is to educate ourselves and others around us – as with awareness comes action. One of the best places to start is by reading The Last Giants: The Rise and Fall of the African Elephant. This review really is just the tip of the iceberg.

Eduardo martinho livros

I’m jumping straight into this post with my absolute favourite place in the whole of Lisbon – Eduardo Martinho Livros. My travel companion and I were on our way to the local market when we stumbled across this gem – where we simply couldn’t resist perusing their outside stalls full of old novels and vintage postcards. After discovering several handwritten letters between lovers from many wars ago in one of the baskets, we wandered into the main shop – which unexpectedly led to us spending hours inside the shop, sharing stories and music suggestions. Eduardo, the owner, offered us a couple shots of the classic sugary Portuguese liquor Ginja, and we spent the sunny afternoon just hanging out in the cosy little store. Kicking back with some Sinatra humming in the background and with gorgeous old novels surrounding us, it’s the sort of place you can’t help but fall in love with – and it definitely became a highlight of the whole trip. Why not pop by and say hi?

Livraria Simão

As one of the smallest bookstores in the world, it came as a massive surprise to find out that Livraria Simão stores around 4,000 books. The space was originally occupied by a tobacco shop, but Carneiro, the owner, turned this space into a curious little bookstore. Despite its size, it’s the sort of place you could loiter for a good while, pondering through antique volumes of Saramago, Camões, Queirós, and, of course, Pessoa. Featuring both popular titles and more obscure volumes, the majority of the editions for sale are second-hand, meaning that it doesn’t cost much to simultaneously blag yourself a gorgeous book and also support a (both physically and literally) small business. Another great thing about this place? The owner is tucked away about 14 inches into the store, so if you have any questions then you’re never too far from the answer.

Círculo dos letras

One of the least known places in Lisbon, Círculo dos Letras is a stunning little place in the heart of the city. The store is filled with an extensive collection of literature, with every title being super quirky and interesting – and decently priced. The walls are adorned with pretty artwork, and it’s very cute and well-organised, with seats dotted across the store to sit down and read. The books themselves are entirely random volumes, with novels such as The Art of Bonsai being sat next to a Guide to Jiuzhaigou, tucked beside a book by Ant Middleton. The livraria is such a well-kept secret that it doesn’t even have a website – but follow the Rua Voz do Operário 62 and it’ll draw you right to it!

móveis convento

Whilst located just out of the capital in an absolutely gorgeous town called Mafra, Móveis Convento is a place you absolutely cannot miss visiting. Filled with the most gorgeous antiques (I’m talking intricately painted chests from the Mogul period, and hand-painted golden bowls from underground cities), everything looks like it should be worth millions but instead is on sale for a mere couple of euros. The absolute best part of this place is the little corner where there’s hundreds of old books stacked precariously upon one other, as despite the fact that it’s not a place that specialises in being a livraria, they still possess hoards of gorgeous novels. They sell just about anything to fill your quirky kitsch needs, and along with vintage Portuguese volumes, you can also pick up an Egyptian-style Tiffany or a painting from 1600’s Japan. I can promise that you’ll fall in love instantly.

Bertrand livraria chiado

Any self-respecting bibliophile absolutely has to find themselves at this livraria – simply because of the fact that it’s the longest running bookstore in the world. The Bertrand Livraria in Chiado is in the Guinness Book of World Records for being just that, and purchasing a book here will earn you an official stamp. Made up of several wide-arched concaves joining each section, the inside of the store is super pretty, and the outside is covered in the most beautiful tiles in the city (and we all know how the alfacinhas feel about their azulejos!). After perusing the titles, you can walk down to the end of the bookshop and chill at their cafe – where you’re sure to find the best hot coco in Portugal.

Menina e moca

The first place I visited after stepping foot on Portuguese soil was the gorgeous Menina e Moca, a lovely little bar-cum-bookstore-cum-hangout. I fell in love with everything about the place immediately, from the little indoor leather seats where you are entirely surrounded by literature, to the outside space where you can bask in the sun with a mojito as you look up to read the poetry floating on a wire above your head. The absolute best part about the place, however, is the vast selection of poetry on offer, meaning that you can really lose yourself in the true essence of Lisbon. Apparently they also host epic-sounding events here – so why not visit and tell me all about them?

Livraria sá da Costa

If you’re looking for someplace adorable where you can peruse old leather-bound books with gorgeous spines, baskets full of vintage maps, and wooden hand-carved figurines placed in front of museum-worthy paintings, you’ve certainly come to the right place. Everything about this livraria just screams “organised mess,” and in doing so, immediately welcomes you into cosy, home-like surroundings. Beside gorgeous collectable books, you’ll also find old-fashioned globes and glass cases filled with antique collectors’ novels from the 18th century. For such a stunning place filled with so much poetry and wonderful Portuguese literature, it’s no wonder that it’s located just up the road from the famous Pessoa statue – so why not take a photo with him and one of his novels you’ve purchased from this bookstore?

Ler devegar

Officially the largest bookstore I have ever visited, Ler Devegar is one of the coolest places in the world ever. It’s the sort of place you could spend literal years in, devouring novel after novel without any chance of tiring of them. The building itself is super pretty, located right in the heart of the LX Factory – the hippest, loudest, and best part of the city. The walls are covered in art pieces, and there’s a bar space where you can sit down and have a few drinks whilst taking it all in. There’s a wide variety of languages available, with Portuguese unsurprisingly dominating, but with many other popular languages in stock. Intertwined with the old printing press, the whole place is swathed in history and beauty, and it’s one place you simply cannot miss out on visiting in Lisbon.

Under the cover

Officially the most effortlessly cool livraria in the whole of Lisbon – it houses the sort of chic aesthetic that my 15 year old self spent a ridiculously amount of time trying to attain. From the second you walk in you are  immediately surrounded by glossy copies of journals about tea and almanacs about travel and volumes about art. Located right next to the Gulbenkian Foundation – my favourite museum in the city – it really exudes the essence of this cultural hub. Outside, there’s a cool mirror where you get to witness how happy you look outside the store, and inside is a full-length mirror where you can glance over at yourself holding one of their books and see just how good it looks on you. Their magazines cover pretty much every topic imaginable – from food, travel, art, fashion, and photography, to architecture, culture and music – and everything in between. They offer some absolutely stunning international magazines, and also sell their own merch – the perfect way to show off the fact that you’re both a alfacinha and a massive high-standard bibliophile, probably with a fancy coffee table full of similar indie volumes.

And so, that summarises the absolute best bookstores in the whole of Lisbon – the sort of places your bucket list looks empty without. Have you guys ever visited any of these stores, or plan on doing so? Be sure to let me know in the comments below!

*Although you can thank me, if you really want to. Maybe in the form of book recommendations?

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librería perez galdos

I’m going to start off the list strong with Librería Perez Galdos – quite possibly one of my favourite spaces in the whole city. Like any good bookstore should be, it features old novels and vintage National Geographics haphazardly stacked to the ceiling, and it honestly feels like an Ollivander’s but for, well, books. The owner is incredibly lovely, and helped me with my Spanish when I refused to indulge my first language. It’s pretty much how I want my future house library to be, as it all comes together to feel like a slightly enchanted space – like the sort you’d read about in a book (gingerbread and witches ensued). It’s honestly just pure perfection, and I adore it.

desperate literature

Desperate Literature looks entirely out of place on the street of which it is situated. Amongst high-class fashion boutiques and name brand labels, you’ll stumble upon what is essentially just this little cave of books. There are wooden signs dotted around the space with bookish quotes painted upon them, and handwritten notes are placed in front of books the staff suggest. You could easily whittle away the days sat back on a chair, listening to the indie music on the speakers, either indulging yourself with a gorgeous novel or tapping away at their typewriter. It’s all lit by some dilapidated lamps, and amongst the cul-de-sac of novels it’s way too easy to lose yourself.

librería san ginés

This place was unlike anything I’d ever seen before – a tiny shed attached to an old church, featuring what was pretty much just a large pasting table stacked with books. The whole thing is apparently nearly 400 years old, and honestly when you see it you won’t doubt it. The stalls spill out onto the street, winding along the church wall, with old postcards decorating the decks. A mixture of rock and roll and jazz music plays, and each time I visited the man running it would be leaning against a chair or a wall, mumbling along as a fat cigar dangled from his lips. It’s a bit of a discombobulating time warp, but I can guarantee you’ll love the whole thing.

librería mujeres

Apparently, in 1978 rights for women were few and far between in this contemporary capital. There were massive problems with free speech, divorce, and abortion rights, and on the whole it was just an absolute mess. That’s where the founders of this gorgeous little bookstore came in – they started up this bookstore to fill it with empowering female literature, bunting, an abundance of clocks, and old lamps. The decorations and style of the store represent the era flawlessly, and the whole place is just gorgeous, empowering, and honestly a little overwhelming. Good luck trying to hold back a reaction as you walk in.

librería desnivel

Librería Desnivel definitely tripped me out. It’s absolutely tiny from the outside, but when you walk in through the stained glass doors (with ice picks as the handles no less), it opens up to this massive maze of books. The floorboards creak as you wander the halls, and the endless rows of books dictate foreign lands and guides on mountaineering and exploring. I didn’t realise that a bookstore could be so perfect, but as I walked through it I quickly realised that it’s a real Travellers’ haven. The walls are even signed with quotes from famous explorers! There’s campfire music playing in the background, and everywhere you look is dowsed in maps and autobiographies by beloved adventurers. It’s the most inspiring bookstore I’ve ever visited, and I can’t deny that I now own a ridiculous amount of Levison Wood novels (I even interviewed him!).

the cómic co

Located in quite possibly the prettiest neighbourhood in the whole of Madrid (It’s Malasaña, before you ask), the cómic co is the most visually contemporary out of all these stores. Each wall is either pristine white plaster or exposed orange brick, with books layered across the front of them. They sell quirky (and sometimes eccentric) illustrated books and comics, resulting in me spending a ridiculous amount of time just pawing at the pages as the temptation of using up all my wages right there was exceedingly strong. The staff are always really lovely, and it seems that they all live for the casual banter in the store. It’s like the Spanish twin to the classic science fiction store Forbidden Planet, although less musty.

Honourable mentions:

Arrebato Libros – An adorable store featuring antique novels and yellowbacks – some of which still containing cute little notes from their owners back in the 1800s. A gorgeous mess of a place, it’s strangely enticing.

Pasajes Librería – Featuring a real abundance of books in a relatively small space, you could spend hours upon hours rummaging through their products. One of the best things is that they offer a wide selection of multi-lingual books, something of which a large majority of Madrid bookstores actually lack.

Librería Letras – So many of these books are on sale, it really did not help my attempts at budgeting. The owner is exceedingly helpful when you’re as indecisive as I am, and some of the books are quite noir and super interesting. The majority of books I bought from my trip were purchased from here – so if you have a weight limit for your suitcase, you may want to be careful.

El Olor de la Lluvia – Translated to “the smell of rain,” this place is quaint and cute and I love it. It features a little reading nook and rows upon rows of self-help books, rendering it the perfect place to take time out and fix yourself.

Madrid is quite possibly the most vibrant, exuberant place I’ve ever had the pleasure of living, and I already miss traipsing daily around the bookstores. I met some deeply lovely people between the towers of books, and I think that if you were to search for the very heart of the capital, you would find yourself in one of these librerías. These cosy little nooks really capture the whole essence of Madrid life – something we call “comodidad.” If you want to feel like you’ve finally come home, you’ve got to fall in love with the hidden bookstores of Madrid. As a warning though: when you leave, the estrangement will break your heart.

Have you guys been to any of these bookstores, or have any recommendations for stores I should check out? If so, let me know in the comments below!

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