Last month, I made the plunge and moved to Kadıköy in Istanbul. Quite frankly, this was one of the best decisions of my life – the city is so beautiful and vibrant, has some of the best food I’ve ever tasted (hello, simit and kaymak!), and is filled with the nicest people.

Plus, as it happens, the best chocolate shop I’ve ever visited.

On a small side street in Kadıköy stands a chocolate shop with the words L’ATELIER DU CHOCOLAT plastered across it. You will find a sleepy white cat stretched across one of the chairs outside, students and travellers cradling creamy hot chocolates, and the sweet scent of raw cacao drifting out onto the street. Trust your nose and follow it inside, and you will be greeted by Mari and her husband Murat.

Inside, illustrations of the bean-to-bar processes decorate the wall, a large counter is filled with shiny, perfect chocolates, and Mari weaves sheer magic into her moulds next to a tempering machine.

On one cosy Wednesday afternoon, I sat down and inhaled the familiar scent of chocolate. By this point, I had visited the shop almost every day for a month, and tasted something new and a little special each time. But now, I sat down with a pen and paper, and asked Mari about her chocolate.

THE BEST HANDCRAFTED CHOCOLATE IN ISTANBUL

‘The shop started up in 2020, Pandemic Time,’ she told me. ‘It wasn’t an easy time to start but it did give me the opportunity to invest in good chocolate machines and equipment.

‘Before this, I’d spent a few years working at Cargill, one of the world’s top suppliers of high-quality cocoa and chocolate products. I’d attended an initial chocolatier course in the Netherlands, and then a second in Belgium. But that last one focused on industrial chocolate,’ she grimaced. ‘Now, I refuse to touch industrial chocolate. They have too many sugars and bad preservatives – have you ever noticed how they don’t melt?”

Murat brought over a pot of cacao beans, still in their husks, and I popped one into my mouth. It was as though I were eating the very essence of chocolate.

‘First, we temper the chocolate,’ Mari told me. ‘We do it in three stages: first at 45°C, then 28°C, and then 33°C. This is where the chocolate gets the beautiful shine and that nice cracking sound when you bite into it.’

Murat handed me one of their Malakoff-inspired chocolates, and Mari was right: it cracked when I bit into it. It was no wonder the Malakoff was one of their most popular chocolates: as a praline with almond and hazelnut flakes, coated in dark chocolate, it was nothing short of divine.

‘We use the best bean you can get – the Criollo bean from Ecuador – and source all of the chocolate fillings from local producers. We want to support local growers, and no matter how expensive it can be, it is always worth it.’

She then asked me if I’d ever tasted a cherry-flavoured chocolate before, and I shook my head. My mouth began to water.

‘I just made this one,’ she explained, passing one to me. ‘You’ll be the first person to taste this new flavour.’

The chocolate cracked when I bit into it, and my mouth was flooded with the perfect balance of sweet, spicy, and a little cherry sourness. It was perfect.

Once I’d wiped the chocolate from my mouth, I asked where she got her ideas from.

‘I get inspiration from everywhere – friends, flavours I’ve enjoyed in food, anything. I experiments all the time, and then chocolate like this is created.

‘I’ve had a love for chocolate since forever, and I know that I will continue to love making chocolate forever. Even when I’m old and retired, I will still make chocolate.’

Murat added, ‘she will never stop being creative with the chocolate – for her, it’s an art. And there’s nothing she loves more than people loving what she creates.’

Mari has a few favourite chocolates. Of course, she loves the Malakoff – everyone does – but she also loves the sesame and tahini truffle. With this one, your tastebuds meet with the earthiness of the tahini, the sweetness of the chocolate, and an aftertaste that is reminiscent of halva.

‘But everyday I eat the hazelnut chocolate,’ Mari added. ‘It’s my breakfast. And the hazelnuts are from here, they’re so good!’

THE BEST VEGAN HOT CHOCOLATE IN ISTANBUL

I looked over her shoulder and noticed that there, on their laptop screen, was the landing page of Wandering Everywhere. It made me feel almost shy.

‘We read your blog post about the best hot chocolates in Europe,’ Murat said. ‘So we’re going to make you a vegan hot chocolate, our style.’

When the coco came out with a little chocolate biscuit straw, my eyes almost began to water at the sight of it. I’d been craving a hot chocolate for months, and finally, I could wholeheartedly indulge myself on the thickest, creamiest, and sweetest hot coco in Istanbul, Turkey, and possibly the whole world.

I could have consumed bucketfuls of it.

‘Do you like it?’ Mari asked.

‘It’s the only thing I ever want to drink.’

Murat laughed, and then Mari lowered leant in a little closer.

‘Do you want to know about my dream?’

‘Of course!’

She decided to explain it in Turkish, and Murat translated for her.

‘Five years ago,’ Murat began, ‘Mari put a photo on our fridge of a chocolate shop in Paris. She told me that this was all she could ever imagine herself doing – it was her life. She’d never wanted anything so badly, and it was everything that she was going to aim for.

‘After years of seeing this photograph everyday and wishing that it was real, she finally opened this shop here. So I took a photograph of it and replaced the fridge photo of Paris. Because finally, she’d made it. Her dream had come true.’

Over the next half an hour we shared stories of our travels and Murat pulled out shots of homemade cherry liquor. An old vinyl played soft music in the background, the white cat stretched outside, and I rubbed hot coco residue from my chin.

Finally, taking a small bag of chocolates with me, I thanked them both for their time.

Mari smiled. ‘This feels almost like… fate.’

And with my heart warm from new friends, a new home, and hot coco, I left.

1. Khlii

2. Bissara

3. Chebakia

4. Mkhamer

5. Msemen

6. Pastilla

7. Nougat

8. Kaab el Ghazal

9. Snails

10. Mint Tea

The Best Food Tours in Fez, Morocco

I’ve had the most incredible time in the city, and I put it all down to living like a local from the second I touched down. I had a solid base, I made local friends, and I ate some of the finest food in the world.

I have so much love for this country; I don’t even know where to begin.

How to Explore Amman, Jordan like a local

Explore the backstreets of Jabal Al-Weibdeh: One of the first things you’re going to want to do to acquaint yourself with the city is to wander through this artsy neighbourhood. Here, you’ll find colourful murals, boutique galleries, and hip cafes tucked away in quiet corners.

Discover the hidden gems of Al Balad: While downtown Amman can be bustling (see: overwhelming), take the time to explore its quieter corners. Wander through narrow alleyways, stumble upon hidden courtyards, and peek into centuries-old mosques and churches, living together in harmony.

Take a cooking class in a local home: Immerse yourself in Jordanian culture by learning to cook traditional dishes in a local home. Several organisations offer cooking classes where you can shop for ingredients in local markets and then prepare a meal with a Jordanian family – or just do what I did and ask someone.

Explore Jebel Al-Ashrafiyeh: This hillside neighbourhood offers stunning views of Amman’s skyline. Wander through its narrow streets, admire the colourful houses, and gorge yourself on halawa in the local cafes.

Visit Darat al Funun: This contemporary arts centre is tucked away in Jabal Al-Weibdeh and showcases exhibitions, workshops, and cultural events. It’s a hub for local artists and a great place to immerse yourself in Amman’s art scene.

Go on a street art scavenger hunt: Amman’s street art scene is thriving, with colourful murals adorning walls across the city. One of my favourites is near the 7Hills Skatepark, also known as the absolute best place in the whole city (my skates and I might be a little biased on this one).

Visit local markets: Explore places like the Al Balad Market (downtown) or Souk Jara (open-air market) to experience the hustle and bustle of daily life. You can find everything from fresh produce to handmade crafts, and I swear, one of the biggest challenges has to be simply trying to take in all of the colours and scents and sounds.

Visit Abdullah Sakkijha Jewelry: While exploring Amman, make sure to stop by one of the city’s true treasures – Abdullah Sakkijha Jewelry. As one of the oldest gold traders in Jordan, this family-run jeweller has been passing down its craft for generations and is one of the leading jewellers in the Middle East. Inside, you’ll find breathtaking collections inspired by Arabian heritage and modern artistry – from the bold Fox and intricate Gatoura designs to the elegant Assela (Arabian Horse) and cosmic Solar System pieces. Whether you’re looking for timeless gold or dazzling diamond jewelry, this is the place to shop for something meaningful and uniquely Jordanian to take home with you.

Try Jordanian cuisine: Obviously we knew this one was coming, but the age-old advice stands strong in Amman. Eat where the locals eat, seeking out street food stalls serving dishes like falafel, shawarma, mansaf, and kunafa. Personally, I simply spoke to locals who loved taking me to their favourite food places, making it the best way to see Amman.

Visit local hangout spots: Spend time in parks like Al Hussein Public Parks or Al Weibdeh Park, where locals gather for picnics, sports, and relaxation. If someone offers you tea, you should absolutely accept – this is one of the ways that I met all of my new Jordanian friends.

Where to Stay

Without a doubt, the only, and I mean ONLY place that you should stay in Amman is the Sydney Hotel. This is where I stayed throughout my entire visit and honestly, I wouldn’t have had it any other way.

At the end of a long day, returning to the Sydney Hotel felt a little like returning home. I was greeted by the same familiar faces, could resume my tea drinking in the warmth of the patio, and cwtch with Mr. John, the adorable white cat. I absolutely adore this place, and refuse to stay anywhere else in the city.

You might be wondering, Amy, why do you love this place so much? Well, let me break it down for you.

The staff are all super hospitable

Upon my arrival to Amman, the first thing I did was head to my hotel. This would become my first touch of Jordanian hospitality – and it just kept going. Genuinely, the staff do absolutely everything that they can for their guests and always go the extra mile, and nothing seemed to be too big a request. I felt thoroughly looked after, and their suggestions and ideas made navigating the city so much easier.

Plus, they fix every problem

This is a strange pointer to add to my list, I know – but it just shows how much the staff were able to help me during my visit, even with things that were completely unrelated to the hotel. For example, I explained my extremely niche problem of my slide blocks being too big for my new rollerskates (see what I mean, niche) and somehow, they were able to drill the metal and shave the plastic until everything fitted together perfectly. The skates worked amazingly, and I was so grateful that they had spent literal DAYS making everything work. Amazing amazing amazing.

The neighbourhood is ideal

Regardless of whether this if your first, second, or millionth time in Amman, the location of the Sydney Hotel is still going to be ideal. Located downtown between Rainbow Street and the Roman theatre, you never have to travel too far, and I always felt completely safe walking back by myself at night. The only issue? The hotel is surrounded by too many good cafes, where you’re no doubt going to whittle away the hours drinking delicious tea, snacking on more halawa, and enjoying the sheer beauty of the city.

The rooms are super comfortable

I was able to try out both the private rooms and the dorm rooms during my stay, and honestly, the quality remains incredibly high throughout both. Super comfortable beds, spotlessly clean rooms, and warm showers with good water pressure made returning to the hotel each night even more welcoming, and I swear, I slept like a king each night.

The breakfast was perfect

Each morning, I’d wake up to freshly cooked shakshuka or scrambled eggs, fresh fruit and veg, hummus, cheese, little cakes, and of course, steaming hot mugs of tea. This is actually where I tried Jordanian halawa for the first time, and as you can probably gather, it quickly became my new obsession. The dishes were brought out by some of the nicest ladies I’ve ever met, and the whole experience made mornings one of my favourite parts of the day.

The common room <3

Every afternoon after a tiring morning of exploration, I would sit in the common room and read, sipping endless cups of tea, and jamming along to the quiet but still epic playlist that they had. Honestly, Hilary Duff and traditional Jordanian tunes all on one playlist? Perfect. The common room also had a book exchange in multiple languages, board and card games, and the walls featured some truly beautiful paintings by the local artist Nasser Khurma. Plus, I ended up making some new friends in this wonderful space.

The patio <3 <3 <3

And talking of wonderful spaces, the little garden area in the patio was another place that I loved to return to and sip some tea. I’d kick back on the swing set every time – this was the spot that I did all of my diary writing, phone calls to home, and knafeh consumption (another dish I quickly decided was brought from the heavens).

Genuinely, the Sydney Hotel made my whole experience 1000 times better, and knowing that I had a comfortable bed in a safe area where the staff were super lovely was wonderful. Honestly, my stay would not have been anywhere near as great were it not for this place, my Jordanian home.

My Fairy Trail

As a side note, I would also like to recommend My Fairy Trail. This is actually run by the same Diya who runs the Sydney Hotel, and is a great way to organise your stay in Jordan. They offer a free personalised itinerary which you can then review and confirm with your local advisor, before heading out to discover off-the-beaten trails and hidden gems.

It makes the whole process of travelling such a diverse country so much easier, and you can rest assured knowing that you’ll be working with the best. Regardless of whether you’re a Jordan first-timer or well-versed expert, My Fairy Trail will help you to really find your feet.

How to Move Around

And now we come to the big question: how on earth does one travel such a country? Well personally, I went with Zaid Tours & Travel, and couldn’t have had a better experience.

I headed down to the south of the country for a few days, and then from outside Petra, I was picked up by Amer, a Bedouin guide with piercing blue-green eyes and impeccable vibes. Together, we drove all the way up to Amman, stopping off at Mount Nebo and Madaba along the way.

The car was super comfortable and cosy, and Amer had a seemingly endless supply of much-needed water. Throughout the trip, he regaled me with tidbits of wisdom and stories from his life, which I absolutely adored. One in particular was so descriptive and emotional that I can’t possibly retell it all here, but to be frank, it was one of the most beautiful things I’d ever heard and left me on the verge of tears. Honestly, I’d never heard such incredible storytelling whilst touring.

As we drove, Amer taught me about several different local music genres, and frankly, I loved every single one of them. One of Farid El Atrash’s songs did break my heart a little, but then when Al Rabia came up again later on in my trip, I felt like the Ultimate Local being able to recognise it.

The weather was perfect up on Mount Nebo, where I saw Moses’ burial site, one of the most famous mosaics in the world (incredible, honestly), and visited a church (my first in the Middle East!) with the jarring juxtaposition of handwoven Kashan rugs leading up the entrance. It was a great experience and I am so thankful to Zaid Tours & Travel for showing me around.

Amer gave me some great recommendations for the city, suggesting both food places and areas to be a little more wary about visiting. He was the first person to teach me about the origin story of the Rod of Asclepius, that Amman’s old name is Philadelphia (after the Macedonian ruler of the region, Ptolemy II Philadelphus), and that the absolute maximum price that I should be paying for Medjool dates (if you’re curious, the answer is 10jd for 1kg).

Honestly, Amer was one of the best guides (and drivers – I have no idea how he navigated such complex roads with ease) that I’ve ever had, and he fully prepared me for what to expect in the capital. Without his advice about the local street market and recommendations on key Arabic phrases to learn, I would have been fairly lost. Plus, I didn’t expect my guide to be the most interesting man on earth, but there we go.

On my next visit to Jordan (because believe me, I will be returning here to make Amman my home), I absolutely want to travel more with Zaid Tours & Travel. For example, I want to join their private tour of Eastern Jordan’s desert castles, go across to the Dead Sea, and go on a hiking trip around the Wadi Mujib Siq trail. They were incredible during my time in the country, and I will be reflecting on Amer’s stories all the way back to Wales. Amazing experience, amazing company.

Without a doubt, Amman (and Jordan as a whole) is one of the most incredible places I’ve ever visited: it’s filled with just so much life. I will absolutely miss it as I continue on my travels, but believe me, I’ll be back. The halawa is calling.

But First – Insurance

After years of traveling, I’ve learned one thing: anything can happen on the road. Lost bags, surprise illnesses, even unexpected injuries—it’s all part of the adventure. That’s why having solid travel insurance is a must, and SafetyWing has two great options:

Essential Plan

Perfect for short trips, this plan covers up to $250,000 in emergency medical expenses, including hospital stays and urgent care. It also includes trip protections like lost luggage and travel delays. If you’re into adventure sports or carrying pricey electronics, you can add extra coverage. Routine check-ups aren’t included, but for $56.28 per 4 weeks (ages 18–39), it’s a great safety net.

Complete Plan

For digital nomads, expats and long-term travelers like me, this plan offers up to $1.5 million in emergency medical coverage, plus routine check-ups, mental health support, maternity care, and trip protection. Covers you while travelling, as well as in your home country. Pricing starts at $150.50 per month for ages 18–39—well worth it for full peace of mind.

From personal experience, it’s better to be covered than to deal with a medical emergency abroad. Choose the plan that fits your style and keep exploring worry-free!

Whenever you go out to travel and explore, some items are essential,  which is Custom Luggage Tags. This is the key to helping you prevent your belongings from being lost during your journey.

When customizing luggage tags, you can choose your favorite pictures, cartoon characters, or travel-related elements as materials, add your personal information, or a unique logo that represents you, and design the size and shape you like. You can even design the color of the luggage tag according to the color of your suitcase.

Such eye-catching luggage tags allow you to see your belongings at a glance during your trip.

Over the course of the week in Portugal, we dropped back from the rest of the group to see the real side of Lisboa – hanging out in ghettos, doing shots with the locals, and spending evenings dancing to live music in tiny squares. I quickly found myself fitting in with the locals – and here’s how.

WHERE TO EAT

Cafetaria Doce Da Madalena Lda is absolutely the best gem of a cafe in the whole of Lisbon. It is so randomly located that you’ll struggle to find it on Google maps, but the hunt will be worth it when you’re surrounded by jazzy live music, the most gorgeous cakes ever, locals congregating on the local square, and the cutest little outdoor staircase ever which leads to the world’s smallest bookstore. Sitting back on the steps and eating  pastel de Tentúgal whilst you take everything in will have you quickly falling in love with the place.

A Pousadinha is an adorable off-the-beaten-track bakery aimed at both pie fanatics and typical pastry weebs alike. They present the goods in classy little boxes which make you look as though you’ve just spent $400 on some fancy ass snacks, with the smell wafting through the cardboard and out onto the street being absolutely divine.

The Therapist is hands down the edgiest place I’ve ever been to; being a super cool, super unique, super interesting spot where you can stop for some gorgeous vegan food before gorging yourself in spa treatments and massages. Their menu is specialised to work towards aiding four main things: “mind, power, immunity, and detox.” Their menu is colour-coded to suit these four concepts, so that you can personalise exactly what it is that you want to gain from your meal. The whole place is mega wholesome, and the fact that they offer cheap procedures such as acupuncture and Indian head massages is something I rarely expect from a cafe. Awesome.

where to have the city all to yourself

The LX Factory is definitely one of the first places that educated Lisboa explorers flock towards – but they usually confine their visits to be between 9am and 5pm. Showcasing the best atmosphere in the whole city, the LX Factory is made up of a plethora of bars and restaurants and cute little artsy areas. One of the best things to do is grab a few drinks, catch a show, graffiti some walls, and dance throughout the night to a local band under the moonlight.

Martim Moniz is Lisbon’s very own Chinatown, and is made up of tiny streets featuring a delicate and harmonious balance of pedestrians, wobbly tuk tuks, pale blue trams, and fancy BMWs. Some of the cheapest food stuffs can be found here, and the run-down location means that tourists don’t tend to linger for very long.

The ghetto was the number one place that my travel companion and I kept getting drawn to – and you know that you’re not going to run into any other non-locais, as there’s nothing that scares off first-world tourists quite like poverty. Whilst it may not be an entirely safe pastime to wander around places like Anjos and Intendente at night, during the day they’re pretty awesome. Walk through the abandoned buildings and two-step drug dealers, and you’ll realise that it’s actually a really interesting place.

Hidden towns to visit

Sobreiro is one of those places that very few people know about. Located in the absolutely stunning town of Mafra (home to a really beautiful national place), it boasts an incredible history. The main attraction that tends to lead people to the town is its old traditional Portuguese village; where you can visit the quaint blue and white houses, a pretty little windmill and water pump system, and the old bars which are still up and running. The rest of the place is made up of charming farmhouses and tiny local-run stores where the locals remember you every time you go back. Magical.

Ericeira is officially the only seaside Portuguese town you need to visit – it’s absolutely gorgeous and the atmosphere is so laid back and pretty that it’s hard to not fall in love with the place instantly. With brightly painted houses and flower shops, it’s a Brighton-esque utopia.

Sintra is one of the top tourist hubs in Portugal – but you don’t need to stay on the beaten track. Stray away from the severely overpriced and touristy tuk tuks, you’ll be sure to wander into an authentic side of the city in no time. Walking the whole place by foot, you’ll walk past old palaces, castles, and run-down cottages. Very pretty.

Alfama Old Town is the sort of place that tourists adore during daylight, but tend to stay away from when the sun goes down – which is a massive shame as this old town only really comes alive at night. When the Feira Da Ladra ends (the thieves’ market – something you definitely have to go to), the real side of the province comes to light – with good music, good drink, and good company. If you need a place to stay in Lisbon, then there are plenty of options available online to choose from. Taking a look at travel blogs that share their own experiences of the area and their recommendations worth looking at.

And so, that summarises the absolute best places to stay off the beaten track in Lisbon, Portugal. What could be better than going to a place to find that you have it all to yourself, sunsets and farmhouses included, and thus end up seeing the real side of the city? These are the places that only the locals and long term residents in the Portugal golden visa program spend their time.

Have you guys ever been to any of these spots in Lisbon, or want to recommend a place or two that you consider to be off the beaten track? Let me know in the comments below!

BUT BEFORE YOU DO – WHY NOT PIN THIS POST AND SHARE THE LOVE?

For the culture-seekers

FERNWOOD

Fernwood is quite possibly the most beautiful area in Victoria, with each house looking like some quirky derivative of the home in Up. When I undoubtably come back to the city to move here forever, I 100% plan on emigrating into one of the houses here – they’re all full of so much character, you might even believe that they’ll stand up and introduce themselves as being called Storm or April at any moment. My absolute favourite part about Fernwood, however, is that book bins seem to be placed at every corner of the neighbourhood – places for you to drop off your old beloved books and trade them for someone else’s. The fact that they’re all neatly painted and are never raided or set on fire really shows what a lovely little vandal-free area Fernwood is (something like this could never be set up in Swansea, let me tell you). 

Hatley Castle

Hatley Castle has the strongest European vibes in the whole of Western Canada, featuring the old stonework and manicured castle gardens (namely the gorgeous Italian, Croquet, and Rose gardens) that you often stumble upon in Coventry or Vienna. The castle is absolutely breathtaking, with an Edwardian design and an interesting history in film – it was used in several X-Men movies as Professor Xavier’s School for Gifted Youngsters. Frankly, I’ve never seen the X-Men before in my life, but the fact that I’ve visited the filming location is something that I plan on bragging about for approximately the next 82 years of my life.

Craigdarroch Castle

Bring on the absolute best place in the whole of Victoria to learn about how life back on the island used to be like. Nicknamed “Canada’s Castle,” Craigdarroch is filled to the brim with history, with the building itself prior serving as a home-cum-military hospital-cum-school, featuring views looking out to the Olympic Mountain range in Washington. It’s a super interesting place, and a great way to spend a few hours. 

Fishermans’ Wharf

Ideal for cute walks with friends, you’ll be surrounded by pretty house boats, quirky little shops, and a plethora of vibrant rainbow-coloured kiosks. If you’re looking for lovingly handmade jewellery crafted by the locals, or unique little gifts to take home (namely, moose-shaped maple syrup bottles flavoured by unexpected things such as pink salt, brie, and old custard creams), then you’ve come to the right place. Also, when you realise that you absolutely must go on a boat trip to see some whales, this is the place to come to search for tour guides.

The Robert Bateman Centre

The Robert Bateman Centre is arguably the most accessible, interactive, and overall best gallery in Victoria – and yet, not too many people even know about it. Dedicated to the famous landscape and wildlife painter, a large collection of Bateman’s artwork from the past century is on display. He recently celebrated his 89th birthday, and still travels and captures the world around him in his paintings. This is the sort of place that you can spend hours exploring, laughing at the anecdotes of his childhood mishaps, and getting goosebumps around the more humbling exhibitions which depict the influence of humankind on nature. It’s a really cool place, and one that you can’t miss checking out.

The Maritime Museum of BC

Due to Victoria being an island surrounded by vast expanses of ocean, it comes as no surprise that it features a small maritime museum depicting the nautical history of the past few centuries. The Maritime Museum offers weekly events and talks on the unknown history of the island, and also sells some of the cheapest souvenirs in the whole city for you to take back home. I once accidentally sat in on their weekly speech event thing which was pretty interesting, and ended up sneaking out to impulse buy a hat with the words CABIN BOY plastered across the front. It was a fun time.

Art Gallery of Greater Victoria

Filled with works from famous Canadian painters such as Emily Carr, this gallery is a nice place to wander around for an hour or two. They have a very cute garden where you can hang out by the shinto shrine in the sun, and various exhibits which are often updated – so be sure to research their current exhibitions to make sure that you get to see your favourite things. 

Legislative Assembly of BC

Definitely a place you’ll feel underdressed in, the Legislative Assembly of BC is the first parliament that I personally have ever visited. The architecture is gorgeous, and the fact that you might just bump into a multi-millionaire politician also has its appeal. They offer daily free tours of the building, which is a great way to learn more about the history of the place. 

Discover the Past Walking Tour 

I have never been on a ghost tour before, and yet when I found out that this company offers “Ghostly Walks,” I realised that I didn’t want to do anything more. It turned out to be one of the most fun experiences of my time in Vic, as my travel partner and I spent a couple hours walking after dark in this beautiful city, taking in the views and being told grizzly tales of times gone by. It’s pretty awesome and very fun, and also a little bit terrifying. A highlight was definitely supposedly bumping into Jack the Ripper in a hallway just before we left. 

Royal BC Museum

Hands down my favourite museum in the whole world, their exhibitions are always super enticing and interesting. This should definitely be one of your first stops in the city, as it will tell you so much about the heart of the place. Not to be dramatic, but it’s the sort of place that you could easily spend days in, learning about each aspect of local geology and anthropology and zoology and everything in between. They also have this incredible life-sized mammoth installation which is pretty cool to take selfies with. 

BC Aviation Museum

If you’ve ever wanted to scramble inside an old war vessel or purchase a hat which will mark you as a walking advertisement for the aviation industry, then you’ve really come to the right place. The staff here are all super friendly and offer personal tours around the place, adding an extra depth to the hunks of steel. For someone that has never been particularly interested in the industry or the mechanics, I was surprised to find myself hanging onto every word that our guide told us – and now know several facts about aviation off by heart. 

The Belfry Theatre

After spending night after night watching shows at the Belfry, I am now utterly convinced that it is one of the best ways to spend an evening in Vic. The staff members are all super lovely, with the shows themselves being mega entertaining, and the building being very pretty. Overall, it’s the sort of place where you’ll spend your night either laughing your head off or crying your eyes out, or having some other limb-related injury occur by watching a well-written theatre show play out. 

Shaw centre for the Salish sea

First thing’s first – this place houses the best gift shop on the whole island, selling all kinds of aqua-related adventure stuff (I personally purchased the most incredible pack of cards here). The aquarium itself is also super cool, and the ideal place to spend a couple hours. It is based in Sidney, which is located to the north of Victoria (technically, it’s a separate municipality), and is one of the most laid-back and pretty places on the island. The centre is real interactive, with a cool entrance door replicating the act of going below sea level in this old submarine, pulling back after several minutes to open up into the aquarium itself. V cool.

For the adrenaline junkies

AdrenaLINE Zipline Adventure

Absolutely incredible – one of my favourite things to do in Victoria. It is so much fun, albeit a little nerve-wracking at times. I had never really been ziplining before this, but it’d been on my bucket list for years – so to finally be able to tick it off my list at a place like this was pretty memorable. The surroundings are beautiful, and you get to whiz through gaps in trees and over some of the most beautiful views. I loved every second, and I genuinely feel as though my time in Victoria would have been lacking had I not visited here. I now have the most beautiful Instagram photos of me hanging upside down and staring up at the trees around me in wonder – and it got a grand total of 288 likes, which really makes the whole experience worth it.

South Island SUP

I had never been paddleboarding before now, but had been recommended it several times. As it turns out, it really is one of the most fun ways to explore less aggressive parts of the ocean. Our guide and instructor was the friendliest guy ever, taking photos of us out on the water because I was too anxious to bring my camera with me in case I dropped it (which I quickly realised was an unjustified fear, as he gave us waterproof storage bags to take out with us). As the sun began to set around us and otters swam up to our boards, it became one of the most beautiful moments ever. I loved every second of it, and cannot recommend it enough. It’s one of the most memorable experiences of my whole time in Victoria.

Wildplay

The adventure course at Wildplay is surprisingly difficult (for my travel partner at least, who has a slight fear of heights that he refuses to recognise), but definitely one of the most fun and rewarding things to do. I felt my heart flutter at the thought of going through some of the sections, but enjoyed every second doing so. I had never gone on an adventure course before, and found every part of it exciting and enjoyable. The guides are all super friendly and helpful, and the fact that you go out in small personal groups means that the whole experience is just that much better. 

FOR THE OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS

Swan Lake Christmas Hill Nature Sanctuary

I’m a little biased when it comes to this nature sanctuary – mainly because of the fact that in my spare time, I volunteered here. It’s such a pretty place, but tourists never seem to know that it even exists. There is so much to learn here, and they have a classroom as well as endless learning facilities, a coffee shop (featuring the cheapest hot beverages in Victoria), trails and paths, and several small animals you can gawp at through a glass tank. It’s a gorgeous place to go for a walk, and they house several opportunities to get involved in the local community – such a birdwatching, or, say, volunteering. 

james bay to ogden point

Easily the most relaxing wander in Victoria, the walk to the breakwater is breathtaking. You start off in arguably the prettiest bay in Vic, and walk all the way down to a kitsch little lighthouse which overlooks the city. The angry wind that will whip at your hair at the end of the point is sure to make you feel alive, and when you step back from the jetty onto solid land, the severe contrast in air turbulency will make you feel as though you’ve left all of your stresses and anxieties at the end of the point. I love it.

brentwood bay

I was only made aware of the fact that Brentwood Bay existed when I went there to visit a friend – and let me tell you, I fell in love instantly. The place is a whole lot smaller than the actual city bit of Victoria, meaning that it has a more laid-back and welcoming vibe. The views are all stunning, and entirely unencumbered by hoards of tourists. My absolute favourite thing to do in Brentwood Bay, however, is visit Brentwood Bay Resort and go for lengths in the swimming pool. Why not go for a dip in the hot tub, taking in the beauty around you as you sip on an alcoholic iced tea?

Mount Douglas

In my humble opinion, Mount Doug (also referred to as PKOLS [pq̕áls]) is a million times better than Mount Tolmie (it’s docile neighbour), as not only are the views prettier, but the history is richer. I took a Saanich History class when in Victoria, where I was taught all about the dialect of SENĆOŦEN and what the First People who lived in this area had endured. The top of PKOLS houses so many stories and memories for the First Nations, and it really is a beautiful place.

Arbutus Cove

One of the places that only locals seem to know about, Arbutus Cove is super fun to climb up, leaving your legs to dangle over the edge of the Void. It’s extremely relaxing to visit here and listen to the waves beneath your feet, surrounded by nothing but pure and effortless natural beauty. My only recommendation, however, is that you don’t visit at night, as it has no lights brightening it up – meaning that it quickly transforms into a death trap with blind drops and sharp rocks jutting out at unholy angles towards your head. My skull is definitely still pierced with dents – but it was worth it.

Willows Beach

Another place that I wouldn’t have known about had it not been for essentially becoming a fake local, Willows Beach is one of the prettiest beaches on Vancouver Island (which is really saying something, because as you can imagine, there’s a lot of beaches on an island), with pristine white sand and gorgeous rolling waves. It’s the sort of place where people go to forget everything, just blending into the breathtaking background. It’s almost meditative to walk up and down the stretch of sand.

Goldstream 

Goldstream Provincial Park is hands down one of the most stunning places in Victoria, made up of an old-growth temperate rainforest. It’s all absolutely beautiful, and a great place to test out your walking boots. Somewhere about half an hour into hiking (depending on where you’ve started), you will come across the Trestle Bridge – the Number One place that tourists visit to take their photos for the #Gram. You walk out onto the middle of the bridge, concentrating on standing on the wooden slats and not slipping between, lest you lose a leg (or even worse – drop your phone), and can peer out at mountains wearing their fog toques. It’s really something.

Abkhazi Gardens

The Abkhazi Gardens are not only beautiful, but they also have the cutest backstory ever. These gorgeous gardens were built many years ago by a prince and princess, in order to turn their love for each other and the area into something physical. The princess, Peggy, died in 1994, seven years after Nicholas, and a little sign over their scattered ashes instructs onlookers to celebrate her reunion with her beloved husband with a glass of champagne. Not only are the surroundings beautiful and the history deep, but the afternoon tea that you can get at the gardens is divine; served on mismatched china, with standards to rival the Fairmont, and big glass windows to look out to the gardens. I promise to delve further into my love for this place in my upcoming food guide of the city.

Eagle Wing Whale and Wildlife watching

Easily one of the best things to do in Victoria, you’ll have so much fun looking out from the boat at an abundance of whales as they do all that Good Stuff, like bobbing their heads up out of the water and doing lil’ backflips and tearing seals apart. If you find yourself on one of the larger vessels, be sure to wander up to the top of the deck and take in the view from the captain’s quarters, where you will be able to see nothing but sky, sea, and porpoise.

Butchart Gardens

The Butchart Gardens are an internationally renowned 55-acre display, created in 1904 by a lovely lass called Jennie Butchart (hence the name). Designated a National Historic Site of Canada, the gardens see over 300k bulbs of hyacinths, daffodils, and tulips, and over 250 varieties of roses a year. They host many facilities at the gardens, featuring boat tours, evening entertainment, firework shows, seasonal showstopper events, and Night Illumination. My personal favourite section is the Japanese Garden, which is pruned and cared for to perfection, with the Italian Garden coming a close second. If the weather is too cold to stay outside for too long, then you can make a stop to the Spring Prelude Indoor Garden, which houses many variations of flower breeds and a pretty little Koi pond, where you should throw coins into the water and rub the golden frog (which I was told was a Thing, but cannot bet on not being pranked). After exploring the grounds, why not stop at the cafe for a hot coco and scone?

Prince of Whales Whale & Marine Wildlife Adventures

The best way to see whales on this tour is on one of the small Zodiac boats, as it all feels so much closer and more personal. Dressing up in the bright orange safety suits adds another dimension of fun and excitement, and will be perfect for capturing that flawless Instagram-worthy photograph. The first time I went out with this company, it was unfortunate that we didn’t spot any actual whales (but plenty of sea lions, seals, eagles, otters, and porpoise) – but with Prince of Whales it is guaranteed that if you don’t spot any whales then you can go back with the company a second time, essentially scoring yourself a free boat trip. On my second trip, the weather was sunnier and the whales were out in their pods, and it was a lovely, perfect day.

Victoria Butterfly Gardens

The butterfly gardens are one of the most multi-generational-suitable places to visit, being super pretty, super warm (a great mix), and super accessible. If you’ve ever wanted to be swathed in a plethora of butterfly breeds then this is the place for you. Unexpectedly, they also have a clan of bright pink flamingoes, a herd of tortoise, and a whole bunch of poison dart frogs, large iguanas, and tropical ducks. This is definitely the best place to transport you from a small Canadian city into the heart of Borneo, where you will also be surrounded by almost three basketball courts- sized lush gardens filled with tropical flowers, carnivorous plants and self-proclaimed “fruits of the world.”

ENTERTAINMENT for THE #GRAM

Blenkinsop Adventure Mini Golf

If you’ve never been to mini golf before, then this is the perfect place to start. If you’re a mini-golf pro and have been to hundreds of mini golf courses over the years, then this is the perfect place to point out how absolutely sub-par (see what I did there) everywhere else is. It’s a lot of fun, and a great place to hang out with a group of friends.

Quazar’s Arcade

After recently bingeing shows like Stranger Things and That 70’s Show, I have been craving nothing more than the opportunity to spend my time at an arcade with old-timey games from the late 20th Century – and Quazar’s Arcade is the perfect place to do just this. An ideal location to spend hours slotting tokens into machines under the guise of bonding with friends (when really you just want to beat them and grab that high score), I can promise that you will absolutely not be able to stop yourself from falling in love with how quirky this place is.

Interactivity board game cafe

If you’ve ever wanted to go on a date where you can snack on candy and beat the future love of your life at Monopoly, then look no further. With over 800 games in store to play, you can bet that you won’t run out of options. One of the most chill places in the city, I can promise that you will be surrounded by other fun-loving, laid-back people that love spending their Saturdays drinking gin and tonics at this (unexpectedly) licensed board game cafe.

IMAX victoria

Having never visited an IMAX before, I was dubious about the level of incredibleness that everyone else had assured me is evident in this cinema. However, after turning up to watch a nail-biting movie about a dude that goes rock-climbing to the top of the world’s highest peaks – without any safety gear – I was visibly sweating from how intense the large screen and apparently even larger audio set made everything. Watching movies at the IMAX seems to amplify any emotion that you could possibly have, and the fact that the seats recline so that you’re almost face-to-face with the action makes that all so much more extreme. I ended up spending approximately two hours every week at the IMAX, determined to see every single movie showing in impossibly dramatic situations. 

Quest reality games

I never knew that there was such a place that could replicate the feeling of being an explorer in 332BC, but Quest Reality Games seemed to do just that. They have several escape rooms that you can sign up for, but their best is by far the Secrets of the Great Pyramid. It’s definitely challenging, but it’s a lot of fun trying to use the clues to work out exactly how to escape with your brainiest friends (unless you are the brainy friend, in which case, good luck). I am ashamed to admit that we didn’t actually manage to escape in time, but regardless, had a blast pretending to be long deceased explorers. We now have a great photo of us holding up signs illustrating the fact that we didn’t manage to escape and that we are, inherently, failures – I will be sure to treasure it forever.

the victoria Bug zoo

A really interesting experience, even though looking at the little insects will be sure to make your skin itch. Who knew that a day out gawping at insects behind glass could be one of the best day activities to undertake in the city? It’s pretty amazing to see all these critters close up – with my personal highlight being that of the ants, who would meander up and down the chutes after cutting up petals and leaves to take back to share with the rest of the colony. Let me tell you, if my university group projects featured as much teamwork and dedication as the ants in this bug zoo, life would be so much easier. 

Food tours

Whilst you may be tempted to go on a simple bus tour to learn the history and see the sights of Victoria, there’s always the option for a much more in-depth way to learn about the city – with a food tour! Several foodie companies run throughout the summertime, and each of them offer alternative unique insights about Victoria – along with taking you to the local bakeries, breweries, and restaurants. Is there a better way to learn about a new place than through its stomach? Get excited for my upcoming post about gluttony in the city.

I have done every single thing that you could possibly do in Victoria – and I hope that I’ve made it more clear about exactly what’s worth your sweet time. Any Victorian that lives here knows the places that are worth – and not worth – going to. They know the secret places that are sheltered from the outside world, places that are hidden gems glimmering amongst the plethora of souvenir tat. It’s not hard to stay off the beaten track if you know where to look. These places are Victoria’s best kept secrets – and I think I’ve done a not-so-secret job of spilling them.

Victoria is easily accessible via the Clipper from Seattle, or the BC Ferry from mainland Canada.

HAVE YOU GUYS EVER VISITED VICTORIA, OR PLAN ON DOING SO USING MY VERY DETAILED AND TIME-CONSUMING GUIDE? LET ME KNOW IN THE COMMENTS BELOW! 

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Eduardo martinho livros

I’m jumping straight into this post with my absolute favourite place in the whole of Lisbon – Eduardo Martinho Livros. My travel companion and I were on our way to the local market when we stumbled across this gem – where we simply couldn’t resist perusing their outside stalls full of old novels and vintage postcards. After discovering several handwritten letters between lovers from many wars ago in one of the baskets, we wandered into the main shop – which unexpectedly led to us spending hours inside the shop, sharing stories and music suggestions. Eduardo, the owner, offered us a couple shots of the classic sugary Portuguese liquor Ginja, and we spent the sunny afternoon just hanging out in the cosy little store. Kicking back with some Sinatra humming in the background and with gorgeous old novels surrounding us, it’s the sort of place you can’t help but fall in love with – and it definitely became a highlight of the whole trip. Why not pop by and say hi?

Livraria Simão

As one of the smallest bookstores in the world, it came as a massive surprise to find out that Livraria Simão stores around 4,000 books. The space was originally occupied by a tobacco shop, but Carneiro, the owner, turned this space into a curious little bookstore. Despite its size, it’s the sort of place you could loiter for a good while, pondering through antique volumes of Saramago, Camões, Queirós, and, of course, Pessoa. Featuring both popular titles and more obscure volumes, the majority of the editions for sale are second-hand, meaning that it doesn’t cost much to simultaneously blag yourself a gorgeous book and also support a (both physically and literally) small business. Another great thing about this place? The owner is tucked away about 14 inches into the store, so if you have any questions then you’re never too far from the answer.

Círculo dos letras

One of the least known places in Lisbon, Círculo dos Letras is a stunning little place in the heart of the city. The store is filled with an extensive collection of literature, with every title being super quirky and interesting – and decently priced. The walls are adorned with pretty artwork, and it’s very cute and well-organised, with seats dotted across the store to sit down and read. The books themselves are entirely random volumes, with novels such as The Art of Bonsai being sat next to a Guide to Jiuzhaigou, tucked beside a book by Ant Middleton. The livraria is such a well-kept secret that it doesn’t even have a website – but follow the Rua Voz do Operário 62 and it’ll draw you right to it!

móveis convento

Whilst located just out of the capital in an absolutely gorgeous town called Mafra, Móveis Convento is a place you absolutely cannot miss visiting. Filled with the most gorgeous antiques (I’m talking intricately painted chests from the Mogul period, and hand-painted golden bowls from underground cities), everything looks like it should be worth millions but instead is on sale for a mere couple of euros. The absolute best part of this place is the little corner where there’s hundreds of old books stacked precariously upon one other, as despite the fact that it’s not a place that specialises in being a livraria, they still possess hoards of gorgeous novels. They sell just about anything to fill your quirky kitsch needs, and along with vintage Portuguese volumes, you can also pick up an Egyptian-style Tiffany or a painting from 1600’s Japan. I can promise that you’ll fall in love instantly.

Bertrand livraria chiado

Any self-respecting bibliophile absolutely has to find themselves at this livraria – simply because of the fact that it’s the longest running bookstore in the world. The Bertrand Livraria in Chiado is in the Guinness Book of World Records for being just that, and purchasing a book here will earn you an official stamp. Made up of several wide-arched concaves joining each section, the inside of the store is super pretty, and the outside is covered in the most beautiful tiles in the city (and we all know how the alfacinhas feel about their azulejos!). After perusing the titles, you can walk down to the end of the bookshop and chill at their cafe – where you’re sure to find the best hot coco in Portugal.

Menina e moca

The first place I visited after stepping foot on Portuguese soil was the gorgeous Menina e Moca, a lovely little bar-cum-bookstore-cum-hangout. I fell in love with everything about the place immediately, from the little indoor leather seats where you are entirely surrounded by literature, to the outside space where you can bask in the sun with a mojito as you look up to read the poetry floating on a wire above your head. The absolute best part about the place, however, is the vast selection of poetry on offer, meaning that you can really lose yourself in the true essence of Lisbon. Apparently they also host epic-sounding events here – so why not visit and tell me all about them?

Livraria sá da Costa

If you’re looking for someplace adorable where you can peruse old leather-bound books with gorgeous spines, baskets full of vintage maps, and wooden hand-carved figurines placed in front of museum-worthy paintings, you’ve certainly come to the right place. Everything about this livraria just screams “organised mess,” and in doing so, immediately welcomes you into cosy, home-like surroundings. Beside gorgeous collectable books, you’ll also find old-fashioned globes and glass cases filled with antique collectors’ novels from the 18th century. For such a stunning place filled with so much poetry and wonderful Portuguese literature, it’s no wonder that it’s located just up the road from the famous Pessoa statue – so why not take a photo with him and one of his novels you’ve purchased from this bookstore?

Ler devegar

Officially the largest bookstore I have ever visited, Ler Devegar is one of the coolest places in the world ever. It’s the sort of place you could spend literal years in, devouring novel after novel without any chance of tiring of them. The building itself is super pretty, located right in the heart of the LX Factory – the hippest, loudest, and best part of the city. The walls are covered in art pieces, and there’s a bar space where you can sit down and have a few drinks whilst taking it all in. There’s a wide variety of languages available, with Portuguese unsurprisingly dominating, but with many other popular languages in stock. Intertwined with the old printing press, the whole place is swathed in history and beauty, and it’s one place you simply cannot miss out on visiting in Lisbon.

Under the cover

Officially the most effortlessly cool livraria in the whole of Lisbon – it houses the sort of chic aesthetic that my 15 year old self spent a ridiculously amount of time trying to attain. From the second you walk in you are  immediately surrounded by glossy copies of journals about tea and almanacs about travel and volumes about art. Located right next to the Gulbenkian Foundation – my favourite museum in the city – it really exudes the essence of this cultural hub. Outside, there’s a cool mirror where you get to witness how happy you look outside the store, and inside is a full-length mirror where you can glance over at yourself holding one of their books and see just how good it looks on you. Their magazines cover pretty much every topic imaginable – from food, travel, art, fashion, and photography, to architecture, culture and music – and everything in between. They offer some absolutely stunning international magazines, and also sell their own merch – the perfect way to show off the fact that you’re both a alfacinha and a massive high-standard bibliophile, probably with a fancy coffee table full of similar indie volumes.

And so, that summarises the absolute best bookstores in the whole of Lisbon – the sort of places your bucket list looks empty without. Have you guys ever visited any of these stores, or plan on doing so? Be sure to let me know in the comments below!

*Although you can thank me, if you really want to. Maybe in the form of book recommendations?

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If you have a very deep impression of these islands, or are amazed by the beautiful scenery you encounter during your travels, you can get Custom Luggage Tags Canada as travel souvenirs.

When customizing luggage tags, you can carefully select some of your favorite islands, restaurants or scenery pictures as the background of the luggage tags, add your travel date, feelings, etc., and combine your favorite shapes and colors to design your own travel memories.

You can hang these personalized luggage tags on suitcases and backpacks to identify personal items, and you can also give them to friends as travel gifts to share the joy of the journey with them.

Salt Spring Island

Famously known as the “hippie island” it is, unsurprisingly, extremely laid-back and full of vegan cafes and homemade clothing shops.

My favourite place to eat at is Penny’s Pantry on the Green at the Golf and Country Club, which does the BEST breakfast food and brunch. The cafe is super cute and the staff are the friendliest ever, and it’s simply just a nice way to start your morning. Another pretty sweet place to hang out is at Moby’s Pub, which is filled with locals and does events almost every single night. My favourite ones to attend are their open mic nights and their music bingo nights, with the latter recently offering a holiday to Jamaica as a prize (which was pretty disorientating due to the fact it’s such a tiny establishment).

Black Sheep Books is officially my favourite shop to hang out in, because I’m a massive book nerd and bibliophile and I just love surrounding myself in a shroud of vintage novels. Everything is also decently priced, which is great until you end up with a stack of 40 different books you want to haul across Canada in your two-foot suitcase merely because they’re from the 1950’s and look pretty.

One of the best places to stay is at Oceanside Cottages, due to the fact that you can stay in an adorable little cottage where every spare corner of wall is filled with canvases or murals painted by the owner. Upon arrival, the vase in my own cabin was filled with fresh flowers, the bowl was filled with a plethora of fruit, and there was a large water dispenser to use because drinking straight from the tap may have upset our stomachs. Every little detail makes this place perfect for a weekend getaway, with a fireplace and fresh firewood (and an axe outside to chop down some more if need be) rendering it a real cosy feel. There’s a radio, vinyls, cassettes, and CDs – meaning that you never have to spend a second in silence. My favourite part about the place though? The telescope. I’d never used one before, and I think it’s such a lovely idea.

Outside, amongst views of ocean and woodland, is a little bathtub – a really cool concept. Around the front, there’s a deck with cushioned seats where you can kick back with food cooked on your barbecue. I think that Oceanside Cottages is the ideal place to spend one-on-one time with a friend or lover, or even just one-on-one time with yourself – perhaps taking time out of daily life to write or create your own artwork. It’s all beautiful, and I’m very thankful for the experience. One day I’d love to come back and see what other little finishes have been added.

If this adorable, quaint little cabin doesn’t quite get your engine going, then another absolutely stunning place to stay is the Harbour House Hotel. Made to cater to an entirely different demographic, with entirely different features and feel, the hotel is quite possibly the most chic place on the island. I stayed at the Salish Suite, which, frankly, is one of the most beautiful places I have ever slept in. It was equipped with absolutely anything that I could possibly need, with a very comfortable three-piece suite, canvases of the most beautiful local areas, a complete chess set, a marble wet room with His and Her sinks, a coffee bar (with some gorgeous green tea), a 65″ HD Smart TV, and an exceedingly comfortable King-sized bed.

The view from the room was absolutely gorgeous, looking out over at the ocean and the tiny boats in the distance, and adjourned to the room are large glass doors opening out to a little patio – the place where we spent the majority of our time during our visit. Relaxing back on the plush sofa as the sun is setting, cracking open a bottle of wine as we share stories and look out to the horizon, each night ended perfectly at this haven right outside our door.

In the mornings, we would catch breakfast at Woodley’s, switching between waffles, eggs Benedict, and salad – all of which were gorgeous and a great way to start the day. The staff at the hotel are so friendly and helpful, I didn’t doubt that they would go to the ends of the earth for us.

Pender Island

This island felt a lot more cosmopolitan than the other islands, with a larger population (which, by the way, is 2,250 – over 1,000 more than the majority of the others) and more active construction. My favourite place on the whole island is Hope Bay, due to the fact that hidden down at the end of the beach is an old, slightly aesthetically pleasing, house. Looking out to the ocean and looking in to a slightly creepy interior (think, broken photo frames, ornaments, and cracked and missing floorboards), it’s a strange place to hang out – and yet, it’s perfect for reading in the shade, dangling your legs over the water.

Hope Bay is also home to Pender Chocolates, a gorgeous little Chocolateir featuring the creamiest, richest, and most delicious chocolates in BC. The place is gorgeous, and also offers an absolutely stunning view of the ocean.

Mayne Island

Mayne Island is perfect for a day trip by car, with my favourite place to visit being Dinner Bay Park, home to the Japanese Gardens. It’s an extremely beautiful garden, with small shinto shrines, cherry blossom trees, and a cute little river running through it, and doubles as a memorial to the Japanese Canadians who lived on the island until they were sent to internment camps during the second world war.

Mount Parke offers the best view out of all the islands, with the summit overlooking Victoria and the other gulf islands. It’s a perfect place to go on a long hike, stopping every now and then to spot hummingbirds and rogue tulips.

Galiano Island

Out of all of the islands, Galiano Island was the one which I spent the most time at. I found that there was so much more to do here in a much more condensed span of area than on the other islands.

For those of y’all that enjoy hiking and wandering the natural surroundings, Galiano Island is a haven. My favourite parks are Montague Harbour Provincial Park, Bodega Ridge Provincial Park, Bluffs Park, and Bellhouse Park – which all offer stunning views of the bay and forests, along with being relatively devoid of other people. Technically, everywhere on the island is accessible via walking, but if you don’t want to spend the majority of your day walking up and down cemented roads, then I highly recommend either taking a vehicle of your own or hitchhiking. I personally hitchhiked around seven or eight times (the island is very safe, and if someone doesn’t pick you up then they get shunned in the community) and met the coolest and loveliest people ever – and didn’t have to pay for gas. I was given life advice from a fella missing a good few teeth, met a farmer from Yorkshire on his gap year, and rode in the SUV of a woman whose daughter worked at the spa I would frequent. A pretty cool experience.

One of my favourite places on the island is Galiano Island Books, as it’s an absolute haven for bibliophiles. I spent a good few hours browsing the books in this small store and ended up leaving with a bag full of worthwhile purchases, and honestly it was such a cute little place filled with the loveliest staff members who treated me like family. Conveniently, located several stores down is also my favourite food establishment on the island, in the form of the Sturdies Bay Bakery – a place filled with cupcakes and pastries and other gorgeous, carb-filled deliciousnesses.

I stayed at several places on Galiano Island, with one of my favourites being Bodega Ridge. I stayed in a little cabin which was absolutely adorable, decorated with plants and tea lights and made almost entirely out of wood. The owners are the nicest people ever, driving us from the main house to our little cabin and giving us their number should we have any problems. In our living room, my travel companion and I spent our time here listening to the radio and telling each other childhood stories around the fireplace, and nipping out to watch the sunrises and sunsets. I also loved the interior design, with little wooden embellishments, a large white bathtub, sliding doors, colourful glass light shades, and heated flooring. I found this place absolutely perfect for giving myself a self-prescribed technology detox.

Another gorgeous place to stay is at the Galiano Oceanfront Inn + Spa, a luxe hotel which made me feel as though I was vacationing at a palazzo on the Mediterranean. I spent my time here drinking green tea and writing on my terrace in the sun, reading my Galiano Island Books in the bath-cum-jacuzzi on a balcony overlooking the ocean, and watching the stars as I listened to the crackling firewood from my fireplace. The shower has approximately a million little jets, which all vary in pressure and height. The food at the inn is all absolutely gorgeous – with portions appearing small but keeping you full for hours. I recommend the beef dip and the charcuterie board plate thing, as they showcase the best of the restaurant’s food. My travel partner and I spent a nice long lunch here and then headed down to the spa, where we went in the hot tub, and then for a eucalyptus steam which burnt our eyes, and then for a much needed cold shower. The whole place smells gorgeous, offers a patio which goes right down to the beach, and offers you free herbal tea on tap. Love it.

Out of the many things to do on Galiano Island, one of the highlights is going out with Gulf Island Kayaking. When I went, I was utterly unprepared and so had to borrow the staff’s hat and sunscreen, but I quickly got the hang of things. It was a lot of fun, and despite my worrying lack of balance, I didn’t actually capsize (although honestly I did get close a couple of times). We stopped at a beach to take in the views (where I had a clam spray water at me from the sand), and I dipped my hands in the water as we meandered on the water, leaning back and looking out for seals and bright purple starfish.

Port Alberni

Whilst most people overlook the charm of Port Alberni and only use it as a service stop, it is probably one of the cutest places on the whole of Vancouver Island. It is set out like every Sixties small town in every indie movie ever, and is super rustic and adorable. The whole place features these really laid back vibes, with everyone knowing everyone’s business and nothing having changed in the past five decades. The streets are full of old hunting shops and Riverdale-esque drive-ins and jade-painted wooden churches with shiny black spires – it’s a weird place, but it’s full of charisma and you can’t help but love it. One of my favourite places in the whole town is this sleepy little cafe called the Mountain View Bakery and Deli and Espresso Bar (it’s quite a mouthful!), because it is this warm, cosy little haven filled with locals reading the paper (which features ads for firearms and GIRLS GIRLS GIRLS), and they do the most gorgeous coffees and Cornish Pasties (with the latter not being served in the entire rest of Canada). Love. It.

Tofino

Tofino is part of Vancouver Island, and is one of the prettiest places in the world, full stop. I was fortunate enough to spend a significant amount of time there, surfing, boating, wildlife watching, hiking, and eating, and feel relatively qualified to call myself as least a third of a Local. I wrote a whole comprehensive guide on the area, and strongly recommend that y’all stalk it before you prepare for a fairytale week away.

The best way to travel between islands is with BC Ferries, which offers several routes to travel between islands each day. Taking a BC ferry is such a big part of any British Columbian’s life, that it almost feels like a right of passage (pun intended) to board one of their vessels. You can either go as a walk-on passenger or take a car (which is definitely recommended for  travelling around the more remote islands), and spend the whole trip kicking back with some ship food and looking out the window at the whales. I have taken well over 15 different ferries between Victoria, the islands, and the mainland, and my favourite bit is standing out on the deck at  sunset and having the wind whip my hair as I look out for seals and eagles.

And so, have you guys ever visited the BC islands or plan on travelling to this beautiful Canadian province? Let me know in the comments below!

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I recently spent time exploring Tofino, which is a tiny district on Vancouver Island surrounded by ancient rainforest, vast stretches of white beach, and surf shops. Locals follow a laid-back, slow-paced lifestyle, and it is the perfect place to get away from the more crowded parts of the continent. Having spent the past few months living with the residents, I feel as though I am now adequately packed with local knowledge – and ready to share my newly-acquired expertise with you.

Where to stay

LONG BEACH LODGE RESORT

The Long Beach Lodge Resort is hands down one of the best hotels that I have ever had the pleasure of staying at. Our deluxe beachfront room offered a massive two-person bathtub in the wet room (which came with the most divine bath salts) and also had shutters overlooking the bedroom, and subsequently, the VIEW. The room features a large balcony which looks out to a perfect vista – distant mountains, pearl-coloured sand, tall emerald trees, and, best of all, the ocean. Ideal for when the sun was out, we could kick back on the balcony sipping green teas from silk teabags and martinis from tall glasses, looking out to the lazy rolling waves and soft pink skies.

We had both fluffy bath robes and sturdy Helly Hanson raincoats in the room, which we could use to wear down to the sauna, or out to the ocean on a rough day. One of my favourite pastimes involves laying back in an armchair and reading my book – and I could do exactly that in front of our fireplace, in a room which I imagine my future book chamber to replicate. The hotel itself is gorgeous, with curio wooden furnishings, cast iron and granite decorations, and hallways showcasing local artwork. I had a wonderful stay, and it definitely offered me the perfect haven to unwind from the accumulated stresses of travel. If there is one place that you have to bunker down at in Tofino, it’s here.

THE WICKANNINISH INN

Being someone who has a big fat crush on everything architecture and interior design related, the Wickanninish Inn was perfect for me. It is incredibly unique, with every decoration and item of furniture being handmade and locally sourced, and each painting showcasing the works of local artists. Every aspect of the hotel has this stunning history behind it, and honestly, it is divine. They feature many rustic elements – such as driftwood rocking chairs, bathtub views overlooking miles upon miles of ocean, suites with lounges stuffed with books and open fireplaces – along with more modern items, such as flat screens which pop out of the bedroom cupboards. It’s very pretty, and the perfect place for a retreat out of the city. Also – their cafe offers the most gorgeous chocolate muffins and green tea seeped through paper funnels!

Where to Eat

LONG BEACH LODGE RESORT

I can’t recommend the Long Beach Lodge Resort enough – especially as they offer the best evening meal in the whole of Tofino. Not only was the food incredible, but the view was absolutely breathtaking. As we sat eating our meal, we were able to glance out at the red and orange hues of the setting sun, mirrored in the silent waves. Something about the hazy light and the relaxed atmosphere had me and my travel partner talking for hours about things we’ve never revealed to each other before. It was weird, and magical, and wonderful.

In regards to the food itself, every item of produce is locally sourced, with all of their fresh seafood harvested in a sustainable manner. My favourite dishes include their confit duck leg (with celery root slaw, apply, and toasted almonds), the muscle and clam dish (served in a gorgeous broth with shaved fennel and parsley), the scallop risotto, the lingcod (with stripe shrimp, roasted squash and citrus emulsion), and the polenta. Their hummus is the smoothest that I have ever tasted, and the bread that they bring to the table before you meal was ridiculously tempting for me throughout the evening (I can’t digest gluten, and yet there I was, gnawing on this beguiling bread). For those of you with a sweet tooth, you can’t go wrong with their classic chocolate brownie dish, or their oversized French macaron.

TACOFINO

Quite frankly, this place was love at first bite. I’d heard so much about it, and visited the sister company in Victoria – but it didn’t come close to comparing to this little food truck. Something about the atmosphere of tens of complete strangers hanging out on wooden benches in the sun, snacking on tacos and burritos and tamales, is oddly alluring to me. The people are the friendliest and it is such a nice place to really sit back and take it all in.

SHELTER

Shelter is arguably the best place to spend a late afternoon – kicking back in their plush armchairs by a small open fire, listening to chill music which you will no doubt Shazam the heck out of, all whilst gorging on some of the most gorgeous food. I have never had such a charismatic waiter before in my life than I had at Shelter, and it would be exceedingly difficult to feel down when he’d bring out a plate of yam fries or buttermilk chicken or a ridiculously fat burger, and be super charming as he did so. It’s a lovely little place, and definitely one of the best on the island.

WOLF IN THE FOG

Absolutely every dish is delicious, submerged in a plethora of stunning flavours. Whilst you try the crab arancini, or the tuna and pork jowl, or the halibut with assorted shellfish, you will be submerged in the loveliest ambience. The whole restaurant is lit up with a warm colour scheme, enhanced by the wooden furnishings and locally designed earth-tone decorations. Soft chatter filters over smooth jazz, and you can see the chefs working at their stations on the far side of the room. Waiters wear plaid flannel, and let you take your time as you devour the food. The food menus themselves are about an eighth the size of the wine menu – which suggests that both the owner and I have the same priorities in order. For dessert, I highly recommend their gala apple – and not solely because of how #InstaWorthy the presentation is.

CHOCOLATE TOFINO

Chocolate Tofino is, quite frankly, a woefully dangerous place for a chocolate fiend like I to venture into. You step into their teensy-tiny little shop, surrounded by glass rows of hand-decorated truffles and chocolates, with workers in this Willy Wonka-esque set-up folding and garnishing the products behind the counter. They offer a wide selection of goodies, with my favourite being their “hedgehog” ice-cream and wildflower honey ganache – and, truth be told, every single item in their Happy Pack. The latter is a little parcel showcasing a variety of the locals’ favourite chocolates, from their strawberry cream starfish to their wild blackberry buttercreams, to their hazelnut rainforest crispy logs. Everything is so unique and pretty and made with love, and I love every second there (and bite!). It took all the willpower I have to not demolish every bit of chocolate instantly.

WHAT TO DO

LEARN TO SURF

One thing that you absolutely must do during your time in Tofino is mimic the locals and fling yourself on top of a surfboard. In my opinion, the best company to do this with is Pacific Surf Co – and let me tell you why.

I had my first ever surf lesson with these guys, arriving in-tow with my travel partner who, frankly, cannot swim for the life of him. Whilst highly entertaining for me to glance out at him every five minutes in the water as he erupted from the ocean and spat out sea foam, our instructor was the nicest ever and helped him learn to stay above the waves. We went out as a small group, where we were in turn introduced to the fundamentals of both catching a wave and being able to safely read the water – and despite both myself and my land-bourne travel partner being relatively nervous before starting, by the end of it we felt fully prepared and ready to go.

Once I was in the water, my main fear of freezing to death utterly dissipated as my wetsuit clung to me like blubber, keeping me warm against the frosty ocean. It didn’t take me long to find myself getting real cocky, as I felt ready enough to wade out in water up to my hips. The waves were slowly getting higher and more powerful, and somehow I managed to lose grip of my board and have it cut in front of me. As one massive wave started towards me, I pushed my head under the water and out of the way of my board, where I was pulled under by the waves. Seconds later, when I was finally released from the surge, I stood up coughing up sea salt and having snot run down my face as the instructor gave me a big thumbs up. I was told that it was a good thing I moved and didn’t get knocked completely unconscious by my board, and was advised on how to turn it into a sick wave. When we left Tofino several days later, I was covered in some very pretty bruises – reminders that I’d tried something epic, loved it, and had the battle wounds to prove it.

VISIT THE HOT SPRINGS COVE

Another one of the best things to do in Tofino is to visit the hot springs on the Sidney Inlet. There are several companies that run here, but I personally recommend Jamie’s Whaling Station as they tend to get you as one of the first groups there (it does get busy!) – also offering the chance to stop and view wildlife on the way.

In my experience of the tour to the cove, we discovered on the ride that a member of our group was actually deathly terrified of boats – and she was here, on a boat ride. The staff was calm and collected as my travel partner and I shook our heads in disbelief as this lass burst into tears, going right out of their way to avoid the sharp corners of the choppy waves. Regardless, the ride there was beautiful, and we were told that if our skipper were to continue piloting south, there would be nothing but clear waves between us and Antarctica (can I hear, impromptu day trip?).

When you arrive at the forest on the Sidney Inlet, it takes a half an hour boardwalk to get to the heart of the springs. The second I clocked that we would be the first ones to jump into thw water, I decided to dive right in – and let me tell you, there’s a reason why they don’t merely call it the “Vaguely Lukewarm Springs.” It was 53°C and so ridiculously hot that it immediately caused our limbs to sizzle and glow bright pink, making my head swim after ten minutes. In the end, we spent nearly three hours soaking back in the water, and it both relaxed the heck out of me and made me feel as though I could pass right out. Every single person that has ever visited Tofino has visited the Hot Springs Cove (probably, but don’t quote me on that), and a trip to the area really isn’t complete without a saunter around the springs.

CHECK OUT LOCAL ARTISTS

I mentioned that local hotels such as the Wickanninish Inn display the works of many of the local artists in their suites – and with good reason. For pieces that are unique and made with love, why not spend a free hour wandering around the open woodwork stores, and kitsch little home-reared galleries? Even boutique stores are run by people with a flair for art, and a mere clothing browse can easily end up with you falling in love with a new painting or photograph. Tofino is such a gorgeous place – and the art scene definitely doesn’t let it down.

GO WILDLIFE WATCHING

Tofino, being part of Western BC, is unsurprisingly choc-a-block with wildlife. Going out on a pre-planned tour is  one of the best ways of securing a sighting from up close, without ending up directly facing off with a black bear. On a single boat ride, you may expect to see porpoise, seals, grey whales, orcas, and otters – and I saw all five on my ride to the Hot Springs! Looking out to land, you can spot wolves, cougars, and bears – definitely the best way to get a glimpse into the wild side of Canada.

EXPLORE THE HIKING TRAILS

Frankly, you can’t really say that you’ve visited Tofino until you’ve conquered their many hiking trails. There are many to choose from, with local favourites being the South Beach Trail, Wild Pacific Lighthouse Loop, and every inch of Maquinna Marine Provincial Park. Be sure to do research on the trails beforehand – some, such as the walk around the crashed bomber site, may be unsuitable in certain conditions, or too extreme for an average hiker to attempt.

TAKE A BEACH DAY

Honestly, the only place in the world that compares to the beaches in Tofino, is Wales (although I may be slightly biased on the latter). Everywhere you go in Tofino, you will find yourself surrounded by vast rolling waves and sparkling white sand. Honestly, there’s no escape – you’re encircled by the vista from your hotel bathroom, and a cafe window, and the balcony you grab martinis at after dinner. The seaside is such a staple to the local Tofino life, that it is literally impossible to not spend at least one day loitering on the sand.

Some of my favourite beaches are Cox Bay, Chesterman Beach, Mackenzie Beach, and Long Beach. They all feature distant mountains, glistening blue ocean, and condensation coming from the waves which settles like smoke over the horizon (rendering the most gorgeous, soft, hazy views). The only downside is that during these colder months, the water is so chilly that when you submerge your half-naked body in for even half a minute, the hypothermia kicks in and you quickly start to feel as though you’re burning. That could just be me, though.

HOW TO GET THERE

TOFINO ALL ISLAND EXPRESS

One of the easiest ways to travel to Tofino is via a coach from the larger cities. Whilst it may take longer than it would to drive, you get to kick back in comfort, knowing that you have several hours to yourself. My favourite part of the All Island Express is that the windows are nice and big – perfect for staring out at the stunning scenery around you.

HITCHHIKE OR DRIVE

Whilst taking a bus is perhaps the most convenient way of travelling to Tofino, it may be more beneficial to have more control over your transportation if you want to explore nearby towns and islands. Due to the fact that it is c-o-s-t-l-y to drive yourself all the way up to the area, why not consider hitchhiking, like your old pal Amy? I found myself travelling the breadth of the place in a bright yellow school bus, kicking back in a kid called Marco’s assigned seat, feeling like I was finally a background actor in an American movie.

Have you guys ever been to Tofino, or want to drop everything and leave right now? Or do you fancy visiting one of the other absolutely gorgeous places in British Columbia? Let me know in the comments below!

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WHERE TO EAT

Eat around the backstreet rather than the main strip – goes as saying, but be wary of the shadow-bound men begging you to buy cannabis (will only happen about three times a minute). 

Central market is not just a place for small family run restaurants to source new ingredients, or for local farmers to barter their produce, but is also a large part of the food culture. Natives flood to the stalls for snacks and treats, and it is one of the few places in the heart of the city to feed you genuine Hungarian food. Almost completely devoid of tourists, be prepared to be the only person in the queue to have a camera around your neck.

Városliget City Park, whilst slightly out of the way, is the most gorgeous slice of greenery in the capital. Sit down outdoors and test out your Hungarian as you order lunch surrounded by forestry, sunshine, and a sudden and absolute adoration for the city.

WHERE TO WANDER, CROWD-FREE

It’s all good and dandy to tell y’all to arrive at places at sunrise, or avoid bank holidays and summer vacation – but for the centre of Pest, it’s more about the “where” than the “when.”

Pre-book a sunset Budapest cruise for a personal river tour sailing between Buda and Pest (sometimes stopping at Margaret Island). Snatch up one of the seats at the little balcony of the boat and sit back as live music plays, waiters bring champagne and pineapple juice, and the sun glances your skin as waves hit the side of the boat.

St Stephen’s Basilica during the end of service hours will secure a chance to view the ancient cathedral without much camera clicking from tourists, with the possibility of witnessing divinely dressed priests preaching softly in Hungarian tongue.

Linger around Kossuth Square and catch a glimpse of capital guards patrolling the grounds in traditional military uniform, and see if you can find the chilly underground massacre museum near parliament.

Ride on the Felnott Jegy eye and witness the best view of the city from the comfort of a private chamber on the big wheel.

Visit the Vajdahunyad Castle and grounds – side-stepping the crowds of the fairytale village to the Hungarian Agricultural Museum. Nearing closing time, entry is free, and the museum itself is so silent and empty that your whispers will echo around the stag skulls decorating the walls.

Clamber to the top of Gellert Hill and spot the endless queues of tourists, then look towards the seating on the right and notice the difference. From there, you can clamber up the side of the wall – just out of reach of the other unknowing tourists – and look across the fey city beneath you. My favourite spot in the whole of Budapest, you get a private piece of the capital all to yourself. For just a few minutes, it was all ours, alone.

WATCH OUT FOR

• Train men pocketing the change from the machine without you noticing
• Taxis – hailing is a real monopoly, with a journey one day costing 1200ft, and 5000ft the next
• Restaurants away from the main strip. It goes without saying that it will be more expensive, but when you can only afford one sandwich between two people to suffice as an evening meal, you’ll definitely regret not stopping at the backstreet összejövetel with live music and local cuisine for half the price
• Avoid the fövá Rosi Nagycirkusz! Whilst it’s hilarious and mega entertaining, after visiting we discovered just how thorough their recent exploitation of endangered animals was – and paying to support abuse is never okay
• Beggars are a lot more subtle and friendly than in places like Rome and Antalya – receive an inordinately enlightening book, or a chance to play a violin (badly) to an audience of onlookers, for a small price that is classed as a donation, but also feels like a low-key mugging

Budapest quickly became one of my favourite countries in the world. Maybe it was because the whole place felt like a fairytale, or because I’d visited with someone who was as new to me as the capital, or maybe simply because we’d found a way to see everything without any tourists in the way. Regardless of the reason, I’ve found myself utterly infatuated with the capital – and crave another spontaneous, otherworldly adventure again.

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WHERE TO EAT

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EL DELFIN

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WHERE TO DRINK