The Hotel

Not to be dramatic, but I literally felt as though the hotel staff would die for me. Every tiny request I had was fulfilled – from the smallest to the most annoying. Walking in through the entrance, a member of staff would prise the door open for me whilst another greeted me from reception, getting up to swipe their card for the elevator so that I wouldn’t have to wait a single second for it to arrive. When I would leave the hotel, I would be offered an umbrella for the rain, and could grab an extra pillow chocolate or two from the cleaners (who were so nice). Reception had daily weather forecasts on the front desk, and would give me flawless advice about how to spend the day, and I felt so incredibly taken care of.

The hotel is located in the very heart of Vancouver, a perfect distance away from downtown attractions, restaurants, and malls. Whilst the city life is bustling, the rooms are completely blocked off from outside noise which is a relief. Local transport is accessible from almost directly outside the hotel, conveniently connecting you to other areas of the city. 

The Suite

The suite itself is gorgeous, with patched jade faux-leather walls, two flat screen televisions, and the plumpest pillows I have ever come across. Every evening, I would return to the hotel to find little chocolates on the bed cushions – which tasted exactly like a bar I ate once as a child, making me want to abandon my lactose-free diet to indulge in mounds upon mounds of the stuff.

The bathroom was, in essence, a wet room, with a large marble seat to lounge upon in the shower, a plethora of L’occitane gels and lotions (my favourite skincare brand), and extremely thick towels and dressing gowns. The mirror was massive and very Hollywood-esque, which made applying make-up feel like I was prepping for the Oscars. Oh, and the walls were textured with little folds and ribbons. 

The small living room was incredibly comfy and cosy – and made it exceedingly difficult to leave to explore the city. Styled like a 50’s living room, it brought me a large amount of joy to merely lounge across the sofa, watch daytime TV, and brew copious amounts of coffee and tea (I’m British, after all). The complimentary Fiji water made me feel exceedingly suave, and the luxe throw rendered my binge sofa-eating into something more glamorous. 

Have you guys ever stayed at a hotel like this, or even the St. Regis itself? Or have I inspired you to venture out to Vancouver to check out this little haven? Let me know in the comments below!

BUT BEFORE YOU DO – WHY NOT SHARE THE LOVE AND PIN THIS POST?

Last month, I made the plunge and moved to Kadıköy in Istanbul. Quite frankly, this was one of the best decisions of my life – the city is so beautiful and vibrant, has some of the best food I’ve ever tasted (hello, simit and kaymak!), and is filled with the nicest people.

Plus, as it happens, the best chocolate shop I’ve ever visited.

On a small side street in Kadıköy stands a chocolate shop with the words L’ATELIER DU CHOCOLAT plastered across it. You will find a sleepy white cat stretched across one of the chairs outside, students and travellers cradling creamy hot chocolates, and the sweet scent of raw cacao drifting out onto the street. Trust your nose and follow it inside, and you will be greeted by Mari and her husband Murat.

Inside, illustrations of the bean-to-bar processes decorate the wall, a large counter is filled with shiny, perfect chocolates, and Mari weaves sheer magic into her moulds next to a tempering machine.

On one cosy Wednesday afternoon, I sat down and inhaled the familiar scent of chocolate. By this point, I had visited the shop almost every day for a month, and tasted something new and a little special each time. But now, I sat down with a pen and paper, and asked Mari about her chocolate.

THE BEST HANDCRAFTED CHOCOLATE IN ISTANBUL

‘The shop started up in 2020, Pandemic Time,’ she told me. ‘It wasn’t an easy time to start but it did give me the opportunity to invest in good chocolate machines and equipment.

‘Before this, I’d spent a few years working at Cargill, one of the world’s top suppliers of high-quality cocoa and chocolate products. I’d attended an initial chocolatier course in the Netherlands, and then a second in Belgium. But that last one focused on industrial chocolate,’ she grimaced. ‘Now, I refuse to touch industrial chocolate. They have too many sugars and bad preservatives – have you ever noticed how they don’t melt?”

Murat brought over a pot of cacao beans, still in their husks, and I popped one into my mouth. It was as though I were eating the very essence of chocolate.

‘First, we temper the chocolate,’ Mari told me. ‘We do it in three stages: first at 45°C, then 28°C, and then 33°C. This is where the chocolate gets the beautiful shine and that nice cracking sound when you bite into it.’

Murat handed me one of their Malakoff-inspired chocolates, and Mari was right: it cracked when I bit into it. It was no wonder the Malakoff was one of their most popular chocolates: as a praline with almond and hazelnut flakes, coated in dark chocolate, it was nothing short of divine.

‘We use the best bean you can get – the Criollo bean from Ecuador – and source all of the chocolate fillings from local producers. We want to support local growers, and no matter how expensive it can be, it is always worth it.’

She then asked me if I’d ever tasted a cherry-flavoured chocolate before, and I shook my head. My mouth began to water.

‘I just made this one,’ she explained, passing one to me. ‘You’ll be the first person to taste this new flavour.’

The chocolate cracked when I bit into it, and my mouth was flooded with the perfect balance of sweet, spicy, and a little cherry sourness. It was perfect.

Once I’d wiped the chocolate from my mouth, I asked where she got her ideas from.

‘I get inspiration from everywhere – friends, flavours I’ve enjoyed in food, anything. I experiments all the time, and then chocolate like this is created.

‘I’ve had a love for chocolate since forever, and I know that I will continue to love making chocolate forever. Even when I’m old and retired, I will still make chocolate.’

Murat added, ‘she will never stop being creative with the chocolate – for her, it’s an art. And there’s nothing she loves more than people loving what she creates.’

Mari has a few favourite chocolates. Of course, she loves the Malakoff – everyone does – but she also loves the sesame and tahini truffle. With this one, your tastebuds meet with the earthiness of the tahini, the sweetness of the chocolate, and an aftertaste that is reminiscent of halva.

‘But everyday I eat the hazelnut chocolate,’ Mari added. ‘It’s my breakfast. And the hazelnuts are from here, they’re so good!’

THE BEST VEGAN HOT CHOCOLATE IN ISTANBUL

I looked over her shoulder and noticed that there, on their laptop screen, was the landing page of Wandering Everywhere. It made me feel almost shy.

‘We read your blog post about the best hot chocolates in Europe,’ Murat said. ‘So we’re going to make you a vegan hot chocolate, our style.’

When the coco came out with a little chocolate biscuit straw, my eyes almost began to water at the sight of it. I’d been craving a hot chocolate for months, and finally, I could wholeheartedly indulge myself on the thickest, creamiest, and sweetest hot coco in Istanbul, Turkey, and possibly the whole world.

I could have consumed bucketfuls of it.

‘Do you like it?’ Mari asked.

‘It’s the only thing I ever want to drink.’

Murat laughed, and then Mari lowered leant in a little closer.

‘Do you want to know about my dream?’

‘Of course!’

She decided to explain it in Turkish, and Murat translated for her.

‘Five years ago,’ Murat began, ‘Mari put a photo on our fridge of a chocolate shop in Paris. She told me that this was all she could ever imagine herself doing – it was her life. She’d never wanted anything so badly, and it was everything that she was going to aim for.

‘After years of seeing this photograph everyday and wishing that it was real, she finally opened this shop here. So I took a photograph of it and replaced the fridge photo of Paris. Because finally, she’d made it. Her dream had come true.’

Over the next half an hour we shared stories of our travels and Murat pulled out shots of homemade cherry liquor. An old vinyl played soft music in the background, the white cat stretched outside, and I rubbed hot coco residue from my chin.

Finally, taking a small bag of chocolates with me, I thanked them both for their time.

Mari smiled. ‘This feels almost like… fate.’

And with my heart warm from new friends, a new home, and hot coco, I left.

WATCH MAKING AT INITIUM

My first taste of Geneva began in a small watchmaking workshop on the Grand-Rue. My travel partner and I were welcomed in from the cold and rain by the smiliest woman I’ve ever met. She introduced herself as Maylis Gonthier, Manager Assistant, and our senior watchmaker as Ivan De Matteis. We all sat together in the plush armchairs by the window, sipping on steaming mugs of green tea, before jumping straight in.

I have always been fascinated with the mechanics of time-keeping, and as it happens, Initium was the best place to learn. We were taught about the inner processes of a watch from Ivan’s presentation – where he made even the most complex of ideas sound simple – and from there we were able to get hands-on and disassemble and re-assemble a Swiss watch ourselves.

We learnt about how after Geneva’s flourishing jewellery-making trade was banned by John Calvin, artisans had to find new ways to put their nifty fingers to use. At the same time, a handful of French Protestants fled to Geneva, bringing their watchmaking expertise with them and bringing the total amount of local watchmakers up to 600. Just thirty years later, and Geneva was exporting more than 60,000 watches each year.

It was incredibly interesting to learn the ins and outs of watchmaking, and I very briefly considered abandoning my whole life back home to take up the craft and live as a watch connoisseur in the Swiss mountains – but Ivan quickly informed me that it takes a helluva lot of time to undertake the qualification. It takes around six years of full-time training to become a qualified watchmaker, and only with many years more practise can you become good enough to create such precise and beautiful little items on a grand scale. As you can imagine, I abandoned that new idea pretty quickly – I’d say it took about four seconds, according to the newly assembled watch in my hand.

We were able to try out their wide array of tools and wander about with fancy eyepieces, and it was so satisfying to put the whole watch back together. By the time we could hear that classic ticking sound coming from the back of the watch, it felt good to know that we did that, that we were the new masters of time.

After we had re-assembled our watches, we were shown the sheer amount of design combinations available to make a complete watch here from scratch – from the straps to the clock faces to the mechanical design. There is a real choice to choose from, and I would love to come back and complete a wristwatch myself.

We talked a little more about the business and learnt that Initium actually has a whole community of watchmakers that they call in to help with group workshops, so that they are able to cover pretty much every language and demand that may arise. It really must be such a cool job to do everyday, and both Maylis and Ivan sounded like they loved every second of it.

We left with a goodie bag filled with our watchmaking certificates, a USB jam-packed with photographs that Maylis had taken of us during our visit, useful booklets with further information on Initium, and a lovely little polaroid photograph of myself, Emily, and Ivan. It was one helluva day.

CHEZ PHILIPPE

I was interested to find out more about Philippe – the namesake behind the restaurant – before our arrival, and so after some research found out that he is quite literally one of the coolest chefs out there. On one of his websites it states that ‘Similar to shamans, it seems that the ability to cook can be passed down by women. Rather than a magical abracadabra, the formula in the trade consists of 10% inspiration, 90% perspiration. Without hard work, the skill is just a bad habit.’

Philippe Chevrier was deeply inspired by his grandmother, his aunt, and his mother Denise, whose name he gave to one of his flagships restaurants. At the age of seven, he exclaimed that he was going to become a chef, no doubt about it, and growing up in the Chevrier family kitchen only inflamed this passion more. Over the years, he aimed to capture his early senses in that warm and comforting kitchen, with his passion for beauty and good values being interwoven into everything he did henceforth.

Having also grown up with a real fascination of New York, Philippe decided that by opening a restaurant in Geneva in the American steak house style, he would pay homage to that dream. And man, what a dream it has turned out to be.

A gorgeous steak house located in the Passage des Lions, Chez Philippe offers an absolute humongous variety of grilled meat, and it is all effortlessly delicious. Our first big meal in the city at Chez Philippe set ridiculously high standards for the rest of the trip.

We were welcomed by crispy bread and a very good wine selection by very knowledgeable waiters, and the atmosphere was warm and cosy and luxe. When you walk in, you notice that the decor is impeccable, with a strong black and glass theme running throughout. The lights are dimmed just enough for it to feel intimate, and directly behind where we were sat was a glass wall separating us from the chefs, who we could watch as they worked their magic.

We started slow, with dishes of bluefin tuna tartare, avocado and fried shallots, and duck rillettes with Cognac and toasted bread. We drank it down with deep red wine and light green tea, before moving onto the main. When the waiter asked what sides I would like to go with my meal, I blankly answered ‘yes’ – and to my delight, he bought out a selection of the best of the house. Delicate carrot with ginger, thick potato French fries, stir-fried white button mushrooms; they were the perfect sides to balance our meat-heavy plates.

Emily went for the classic Sirloin steak fillet whilst I opted for the grilled duck breast with soy sauce and cashews, and they were both cooked to absolute perfection. With a chimichurri sauce, green pepper sauce, and Café de Paris sauce, we had fun experimenting with the wide array of flavours.

When we started to feel as though we couldn’t possibly eat anymore, we tried their raspberry cheesecake and fresh strawberry salad and found that it really was the icing of the cake. Surrounded by a warm atmosphere, chill lounge music, and soft chatter of multiple languages, it was nice to just sit back, wait for the food to go down, and take it all in.

LE LACUSTRE

Le Lacustre is a gorgeous little restaurant on the bank of the river where views overlook the Rhône, the not-so-distant mountain ranges, the beautiful white-and-red city, and the infamous Jet d’Eau. When we arrived, it was raining (as per usual), so the restaurant was the perfect saviour from the cold outside. Inside, cosy and warm, we were welcomed with sweet red teas and warming decaf coffees, and a whole lot of delicious food.

The portions were much bigger than we expected, and so after ordering a sheer abundance of seafood and bread, we were almost bulbous by the end of it. Plate after plate came out, of focaccia, langoustine, salmon, prawn, calamari, aubergine, goats cheese, and tasty little zucchinis – and by the end of the meal, my travel partner Emily and I were both completely fried. The things that were meant to be crispy were extra-crispy, the things that were meant to be warm were steaming, and the things that were meant to be sweet properly hit that sweet tooth. It was certainly a fun meal, I can tell you that.

After a lovely green tea to cleanse our palettes, we finally got our grubby little hands on dessert. Tempted by every single pudding on the menu, we eventually opted for the homemade desserts (the tiramisu, the crème caramel, and some other creamy fruity thing with a delicious red tea), and a simple apple tart with sweet vanilla ice-cream.

Absolutely stuffed choc-a-block with this light lunch, we then walked back over the pretty little Mont-Blanc bridge to our hotel – where we quickly proceeded to conk out and nap for a solid two hours, content and exhausted from such a tough jaw workout.

COTTAGE CAFE

The little brick house that is now called the Cottage Cafe used to be mere temporary accommodation for construction workers in the 1870s. Later renovated by the City of Geneva, current owner Nicole Boder, and Nicole’s team, it is now an absolutely gorgeous place to sit and have dinner.

Nicole Boder was born in Morocco and raised in Israel. She then moved to Switzerland at the ripe old age of 20 where she worked as a waitress and chef for several years, teaching herself cinema, photography, fashion, interior design, and cooking. Finally, in 2008, she opened her very own restaurant where all of these passions can collide.

Opposite the cafe – and directly in front where we were sat – is the Brunswick Monument. A gorgeous pink marble facade housing the hidden corpse of the Duke of Brunswick (renowned traveller known for his various political and moral intrigues), it was erected from the 22 million gold francs that they found written off in his will. It’s an absolutely gorgeous building to look out upon whilst you’re sat snacking on your mezes and tapas – although I’ll be honest and say that had I known it was inherently just a coffin when we sat down, I probably wouldn’t have stared out at it so longingly.

I will be frank with you and admit that I have never wanted to try every single item on a menu in front of me before – especially as I have a real plethora of food intolerances which renders that very thought impossible – but the Cottage Cafe is a whole other ballpark. Faced with the most delicious looking Moroccan and Mediterranean and fusion foods, I immediately knew that there would be no way I could resist diving head first into the menu.

The food was absolutely gorgeous, and as we sat outside under a canopy beneath the soft pink sky, rain falling around us, and tucked under a comfy little blanket (each seat had one of their own), it warmed me from the inside out.

We tried the marinated olives, the deliciously sweet quinoa tabbouleh with mint, the hummus and pita, moscardini, crispy ‘Chavignol’ goat cheese filo squares with honey and fruit, figs stuffed with goat cheese (can you tell I love goat cheese?) and small salads besides each one – and I fell in love with every single plate.

As the fairylights twinkled around us and reflected golden in the water, the Brunswick monument overlooking the place glowed pinker and pinker as the sun sets. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, and it feels like a mini utopia.

We ate slowly, truly savouring the complex flavours of each dish, looking out at the water feature as the sky changed from white to blue to purple to pink to gold – each shade reflected upon the monument. Despite being out in the open, the moment felt personal and oh-so-special, just Emily and myself looking out at the world, cosy and together and well-fed.

And then, oh, the teas! We had truly been spoiled for choice with teas in Geneva, with this gorgeous beverage being offered alongside every coffee and coco option (after months of travelling Spain and Italy, we had forgotten what that felt like) – but it was truly exceptional at the Cottage Cafe. Of course, there were the green teas (with rose, jasmine, and lychee) which were beautiful, but the real star-stopper is their traditional Moroccan mint tea. Served in an ornate metal teapot reminiscent of Jemaa el-Fna, with the sweet scent of mint and sugar wafting from its spout, it really blurred the line between here and there.

For dessert, we kept it simple – dark chocolate brownie for Emily, and dark chocolate ice-cream for myself – and these timeless classics were absolutely delicious. As expected.

It felt a little like home and a little like adventure, and I loved it. It really reminded me of when I visited the Atlas Mountains last year and officially declared Morocco my favourite country – and whilst I think that Switzerland had since bustled its way to the top, both countries I love for entirely different reasons. The Cottage Cafe really has the best of both worlds.

Back home in Wales, stalking their website, I was delighted to find that they actually post some of their recipes online! If you head over to their site, you can give some a go at home.

A TOUR AROUND CAROUGE

Having explored Geneva and only become hungrier to learn about the beautiful city and its nearby towns, we met with a lovely woman called Emilie Bissardon who took us around Carouge. The only town built in the 18th century, filled with classical French and Sardinian architecture, it was a wonderful place to explore with a guide.

Emilie was super sunny, even though the weather around us absolutely was not. She answered every single one of my (quite possibly annoying) questions, and thoroughly filled us in on the history of the area. An important trading town during the Middle Ages after being set up to protect the Roman Empire from the Helvetii, Carouge has grown into a thriving, warm and cosy bohemian little town that feels distinctly different to its Genevan neighbour.

We learnt all about the protestant refugees and visited the cathedral (which had the most beautiful stained glass I have ever seen in my life) and the Protestant church, and I was taught that the altar in Catholic cathedrals always face east (who knew?!). We visited the Place du Marché where every Wednesday a large green-grocer’s street market is held, were told about how the World Wide Web was created in Geneva, and taught that the first Swiss wristwatch was made in Geneva by a guy called Patek Philippe in 1868 – but of course we knew this!

We three then wandered back to Geneva where we visited the longest wooden bench in the world (made from a grand total of 180 wooden boards) and looked out at the incredible view of Salève Mountain. Emilie walked us to one of the museums where we would spend the rest of the day and we said our goodbyes, leaving with a much larger knowledge of the city of Geneva and its beautiful Greenwich-esque neighbour, Carouge.

MUSEUMS

Apart from naps, we would also spend our afternoons and free time between activities and food exploring the city in the search for the best museum. As it happens, Geneva has over 40 public and private museums, so we really were spoilt by choice. Using our nifty little Geneva City Pass, we were granted free entry to as many as we wanted – so it’s not a surprise that we passed through a helluva lot of museums during our time. Here are my favourites; the ones that you really must visit.

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

Natural History Museums are simply wonderful wherever you may find one – but the one in Geneva is actually the largest one in Switzerland. It’s the exact sort of place that I would love to find myself working in – I’d truly adore working here, staring at the animals all day and learning their names and re-organising their beautiful displays. I learnt so much here, and am almost shocked by my ignorance – I simply did not know that this many animals existed. For example, did you know that there are over fifty types of gulls? Mental.

MUSÉE D’ART ET D’HISTOIRE

Sebastián from Taxi Bike actually suggested we visit here, as I told him I was after some archeology – and boy, was he right. This is such an interesting museum filled with both local archaeology and wider-scale archeology, and I could have spent years here. I was introduced to some of the most beautiful paintings I have ever seen in my life, and discovered some new favourite artists here (such as Jean-Pierre Saint-Ours – I’m always open to receiving one of his paintings as a Christmas gift, in case you were wondering). My favourite part has to be the rooms made up entirely from black walls and small spotlights looking up from the bottom of each painting’s frame, lighting up each canvas individually in a room of dark. It’s such a beautiful and intense experience; it was unexpected and I loved it.

MAISON TAVEL

The oldest house in Geneva, Mason Tavel was built in the 12th century and is probably the best museum in the area for learning about the past of Geneva. It begins with an interactive exhibit where lights and illustrations are projected onto a blank 3D layout of the city, with a voice-over explaining the changes that Geneva has undergone throughout the years. It’s part of a short movie called Geneva, history made-to-measure, and is very interesting. Throughout the museum, you are able to walk through a reconstructed old maison, taking you through the displays, old kitchens, and years upon years of history and storytelling.

MUSÉE BARBIER-MUELLER 

Whilst it would have been great to have more information on the items in the collection, what I did learn was very interesting. For example, did you know that Westerners used to associate beards with the ‘primitive’ civilisations around the world (as a negative connotation), despite the fact that colonisers would go to new places and be a million times hairier and dirtier than the locals that lived there? This museum is filled with fun facts and incredible works of art from Tribal and Classical artists, and is one of the most beautiful collections I have ever seen. If I were to ever own a house, I know for a fact that I would fill it to the brim with artworks like these.

CATHÉDRALE SAINT PIERRE GENÈVE

For the best view of the city, you really won’t find any better than at the cathedral. The panorama at the top of its five million stairs is absolutely incredible – you can see all across the city of Geneva and the nearby mountain ranges, and look down at the tiny ant people below. There are two towers at the top, but I would recommend the open-air South tower for good weather and the enclosed wooden-walled North tower for cold and rain. Or if you have the leg muscles of Sarah Outen, knock out both. It’s a really impressive building, where you can walk through the pretty but plain cathedral floor, the wooden structures leading up to the gigantic metal bells, and centuries of history.

WHERE TO STAY

Two words: Hotel Bristol.

Upon our arrival, we met with the director of sales and marketing, Béatrice Vaisseau, who explained to us all about how the hotel is actually a former 19th century mansion. The hotel is dotted with gorgeous old paintings of women, men, and children, but I’d assumed they were merely tasteful decor – as it happens, they belonged to and show the old inhabitants.

We then went off to explore our room and were welcomed by a gigantic bed worthy of the 2m social distancing rule, beautiful artwork featuring local landscapes, a little sitting area where we could collapse back on the sofas and snack on fruits, and the most perfect view of the vibrant green park outside. With delicious verbena tea in the room, USB charging ports by the bed, and a large smart TV, it was very modern and catered to our needs perfectly. Sleeping was easy, with big fluffy pillows and thick blackout curtains.

In the mornings, we would opt to walk down the grand golden staircase and look around at the incredible paintings above us. At reception, we would grab an umbrella or ask for tea shop suggestions and the staff would be super lovely in return, openly sharing their rich knowledge of the city with us. Then, we would head out into the city feeling very well cared for and eager to make the most of the day.

The hotel is situated right by the river, mere steps away from the Old Town, and is the perfect base for exploring the city. At the end of a long day adventuring, we would feel so grateful to walk back into the hotel and be greeted by the incredibly friendly staff and the beautiful warm oaks and reds and clean whites of downstairs. Going up to shower before dinner saw a powerful shower that it was hard to leave, gorgeous Molton Brown toiletries, and big fluffy towels and dressing gowns that felt so good getting into. It had, quite literally, everything we could have wanted.

Breakfast at the hotel every morning was delicious, with a wide selection of teas, yoghurts (even soya yoghurts!), pastries, fresh juices, and fruit salad. Let me tell you, they don’t make croissants like these anywhere else. Our waiter was super nice and remembered our orders from the previous morning, and it really was simply a lovely way to wake up.

GETTING AROUND

One thing that I absolutely would not have been able to live without in Geneva was the Geneva Transport Card. I was pretty shocked at the fact that if you stay in any hotel, youth hostel, or campsite in the city, you will be entitled to receive this card which allows you to travel by bus, tram, train, or yellow taxi-boats in the city for FREE. My personal favourite was the taxi-boat, but as a South Walian, I’m biased.

Another thing which I’ve already mentioned a couple times throughout this post is the Geneva City Pass, which grants you free and discounted access to the best attractions in the city. With this pass, I was able to visit every museum to my heart’s content, and had I stayed just a teensy bit longer I know for a fact that I also would have visited Geneva Beach, taken the cable car Mont-Salève, and gone on a long, slow, cruise up the lake. I look forward to the day that I can eventually return to the city, as I know for a fact that I will run that baby dry. 

LAST BIT ABOUT GENEVA

Geneva; city of watches, wine-tasting, and warm, welcoming people.

This pretty little Romandy city is easily one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited, and I feel so lucky to have been able to spend such a lovely time there. It’s everything I’ve ever dreamt of in a city – gorgeous snow-topped mountains, a ridiculous amount of tea shops (fyi, my favourite is Thés Tschin-Ta-Ni), the most delicious food I’ve ever put into my body, the clearest, tastiest water flowing through the veins of the place – everything comes together to create a little paradise. Learning about the history and stories of Geneva has only ignited a hunger for learning more – so you can count your bottom dollar that this isn’t my last time there.

A gigantic thank you to Geneva Tourism for welcoming me to this incredible city, hosting this stay and organising the perfect itinerary for my trip – I had a truly wonderful time, and cannot thank you all enough!

And so, have you guys ever visited Geneva, or want to in the future using my suggestions? Let me know in the comments below!

BUT BEFORE YOU DO – WHY NOT SHARE THE LOVE AND PIN THIS POST?

The Hotel

Walking up to the hotel entrance with an old green rucksack slung over my shoulder, I felt throughly underdressed. Mirroring the exterior of an old manor house, it looked like the sort of place you’d catch Carrie Bradshaw sauntering around, swathed in Gucci and mink – and here I was in trainers. After checking in and denying the option for a porter at reception, I found myself led to the most gorgeous of open-plan rooms.

I’d landed the executive suite, and it was even larger than I’d imagined. The room followed a green and gold colour scheme, with high ceilings punctured with a crystal chandelier, and wide glass doors opening out to my balcony. With the light filtering in through the white voile curtains, my room was bright and airy. I immediately began to fill the massive wardrobe with an array of obnoxious outfits and popped open a bottle of sparkling water. It wasn’t hard to see why this place had such a high status.

The balcony was gorgeous, overlooking the gorgeous golf course surrounding the resort. Enveloped in my new matching robe and slippers, I ordered room service and sat outside snacking on sorbet – a stunning selection of raspberry, lemon, and apple cider, brought in on a silver platter.

It didn’t take long for me to understand the concept of a ‘staycation,’ where people book little holidays away in gorgeous hotels, spending the time relaxing and truly taking advantage of the services available. I spent a good hour lounged out on my massive and ridiculously comfy bed (which would easily have fit four people, with enough space for them to starfish), and chilled around the room for a while – taking it all in, reading, and drinking coffee.

The bathroom was pristine, with a massive bath and accessories from the White Company. It didn’t take long the massive bath was filled to the brim with scalding water and bubbles, where I submerged myself and lay uncontactable for hours. After, I slathered myself in the White Company’s moisturiser and dived into the millions of pillows of my bed, feeling truly cosy and cared for. With the help of my complimentary ‘sleep spray,’ I fell asleep easily.

The Food

As I made my way to the Vale Grill for AA Rosette dining, my heels clacked on the shiny reception floor. Walking into the restaurant surrounded by candles, flowers, and art, I was led to a table where my chair was pulled out for me and a napkin was placed over my lap. The chefs were visible at their assigned stations at the back of the restaurant, frying and sizzling and roasting. It didn’t take long for the place to fill up.

The food, as expected, was stunning. Having grown up in a household run by chefs, I pride myself in being able to spot good, high quality food – and the Vale Grill definitely lived up to standards. I sampled the salmon en croute with pea puree and watercress salad, with the pastry being perfect and the dish well-balanced. That was followed by pan seared chicken with crushed new potatoes, baby vegetables, and salsa verde, with a side of leek and spinach. The chicken was cooked flawlessly, although it could definitely have done with more sauce – especially as it came with a tower of potato, you don’t get a lot of moisture from the food itself. For dessert, I followed a recommendation from my waiter and went for homemade toffee cookie dough ice-cream and it was stunning – although, full from the rest of the meal, I sadly couldn’t even come close to finishing it.

In the same location you would also have your breakfast, which would come in the style of a buffet. With an abundance of fruits, cakes, and fry-up ingredients, you can fill yourself up for hours. Next door, you have the Vale Bar, where I whittled away several hours sat amongst the plush green and grey chairs, minding my own business as I wrote and sipped green tea. At some point the Welsh rugby team sauntered past my table, and I was reminded of the sort of company I was amongst.

Lunch was included as part of my spa day, so I headed to the Chai Cafe for food which again came in my favourite form of dining – a buffet. Helping myself to smoked salmon, falafel, tomato soup, meats, tarts, and an array of salads – from quinoa to Greek to classic veg – I ate a ridiculous amount. Due to the fact that it was all healthy, instead of feeling bloated I felt energised and ready for the afternoon ahead.

The Spa

I was taken on a tour around the spa (recorded to be Wales’ largest) prior to my treatment, and was shown around dozens of traditional and holistic treatment rooms and relaxation zones. They had a sauna, steam room, whirlpool bath, indoor pool, ‘slumber’ zone, ‘float’ zone (the best one), and a room where you could just sit back and rub a stone Buddha’s stomach for good luck. It didn’t take me long to realise that this was where I would be spending the majority of my down-time. After my tour, I was handed a branded drawstring bag – perfect should I had been better prepared and arrived with a book – and went into the dressing room to change into my robe and slippers. Surrounded by Hollywood-esque dressing tables, I felt excited at my upcoming treatment. Spoiler: it turned out to be amazing.

Having never had aromatherapy before, I didn’t have a clue as to what to expect when I went in for my treatment. As it happens, the basic idea is that you’re slathered in essential oils and then massaged for healing purposes. I’m not sure as to how much the massage actually healed my ailments – instead, I merely felt more relaxed than I ever had in my whole life. It felt surprisingly good to have my body go through a thorough kneading, and with the background music consisting of Chinese zen tunes and ocean waves, I very nearly fell asleep.

When it ended I felt so relaxed that I may as well have just melted into a puddle on the table, and my masseuse brought me a glass of water as after aromatherapy it is really important to stay hydrated as the body releases toxins. I was led to the ‘float’ zone where I spread out on a heated waterbed in a candle-lit room, closing my eyes and feeling engulfed in pure bliss. With a mini indoor waterfall making soft noises in the middle of the room, I felt as if I were in a suspended state like that moment just before you nod off. With snoring lightly coming from the other end of the dark room, I didn’t doubt that that was exactly the feeling we all shared.

My stay at the Vale Resort was one of which I feel blessed to have experienced. Leaving the hotel, I felt thoroughly disappointed to be walking away from a life where I had other people bring food to my room and pull out chairs for me, to a place where I have to wash my own dishes. The Vale was an absolute dream – and I already want to return.

And so, would you guys consider staying somewhere like the Vale Resort, where you can just spend days on end feeling utterly pampered? Let me know in the comments below!

Plas Dinas Country House is a gorgeous award-winning hotel perfectly located between the Irish Sea and Snowdonia’s mountain range. The setting is stunning, with an extensive 15 acres of land surrounding the house where you can sit in the garden and bask in the sun reading a novel, utterly enveloped by the Welsh countryside, as little rainbows bounce away from the fountain and onto the grass around you. 

This grandeur building dates back to the mid-1600’s and is Grade II listed, swathed in history and extensive Victorian additions. The hotel was a favourite of Princess Margaret (my second favourite royal!*), who would often spend weekends at this humble estate. As you walk through the door, you will be greeted by old family portraits, breathtaking oil paintings, and memorabilia from the time of Princess Margaret, and Lord Snowdon.

One of my favourite places in the whole house is the Drawing Room, as it is full of original furniture and Victorian relics. I feel as though this room embodies the true heart of the house, with its roaring fire, baby grand piano, and glistening chandeliers. You can sit back on one of their plush fabric sofas, listen to the relaxing lounge music, read one of their old books or luxury magazines, or perhaps play a game of chess or backgammon. Make your way over to the Honesty Bar or order a drink from their menu, and simply kick back and relax. 

With several of their 10 bedrooms spanning back an incredible 400 years, these little pockets of history are all individually designed, flaring their own personalities. I spent my evenings in the Princess Margaret Suite, arguably the best room in the house. With crisp linen, plump cushions, goose down pillows and duvets, and a stunning embroidered cover, I felt myself melt into the bed at night. I had never stayed in a four poster bed prior to this, and let me tell you, it is a truly divine feeling.

We were welcomed by mini bell jars filled with homemade fudge and biscuits, and a wonderful service en chambre box full of a wide selection of teas (with their loose leaf tea being to die for!), coffees, and thick hot coco. The room housed a little ‘in case you forgot’ kit full of necessities that hotel-goers often leave at home, and the bathroom featured a small toothpaste and Molton Brown toothbrush (who knew that they even did designer toothbrushes?) and the most divine moisturiser I have ever tried. Honestly, had I forgotten to pack my entire wash bag, I would have still come out of it sparkling clean.

We would wander about our suite in our fluffy bathrobes and slippers, draped across the chaise lounge as we flicked through luxury magazines and antiquated books half the size of my body. There was a gorgeous stag head decanter on the centre table topped with sherry, beside two beautiful crystal glasses which we used to toast our arrival. One of my favourite parts of the room was the writing bureau, as it had original letters regarding Princess Margaret framed on the desk and made me feel as though I were an old Jane Austen character. 

The room had an en-suite with mist-free heated mirrors, and windows overlooking the grounds and nearby ocean. The bath was large enough to fit two people, with a flat-screen television, luxe bath milk, and a tiara to recreate Princess Margaret’s iconic bath photo beside it. I spend approximately two hours in that bath, reading magazines and watching shows, gradually growing more and more wrinkled, and a further 20 minutes trying to wash the soap from my hair in their large and powerful shower. It was a very relaxing time.

For breakfast, expect to be swathed in glorious morning sun, sat surrounded by museum-worthy paintings and a wide selection of food options. I loved waking up to freshly baked croissants and pain au chocolat which were soft and warm in the middle and had a divinely flaky outside. We would then snack on their seasonal berries and fresh fruit, homemade fig and almond granola, and yoghurts and breads whilst we awaited our menu-chosen breakfasts to come from the kitchen. 

I ordered a Welsh breakfast with grilled thick-cut bacon and local butchers’ award-winning pork and leek sausages, and my travel partner ordered smoked salmon with crushed avocado. As we had come to expect, both were delicious. To go with the meal, I tried a pot of white tea – which I usually have reservations about but was surprisingly flavoursome and featured complex sweet notes. My travel partner ordered a pot of freshly brewed coffee which she informed me, ’embodies everything a real coffee should.’ 

The back of the breakfast menu had translations for popular Welsh food words, such as pwdin du (black pudding) and paned o de (cup of tea), which I thought was a nice little nudge to the Welsh heritage which the house is swathed in. The breakfast room featured two large windows which overlooked the gorgeous gardens, which were full of just-sprouting spring buds, and was a beautiful sight to start the day.

Dinner at the country house was particularly splendid, with a very small and thoroughly perfected menu. Evening meals are served in the Gun Room, which features a stunning stone inglenook fireplace which the original house was built around. It feels very intimate, as you’re sat relatively close to your dinner companion and the room is lit by candle. 

We had little tasters between courses to refresh the senses, with my personal favourites being the gin and elderflower sorbet and the pea and almond soup with treacle bread. It was a delightful way to work up to the main courses, and we spent the extra time talking about the dishes, taking in the details of the room around us, and listening to the soft jazz music which played in the background. The food staff would wear gloves as they brought out each dish, a nod to the high class dining we were experiencing. 

The cuisine in the Gun Room is the sort that forces you to eat slowly, really paying attention to each sensation and bite. Some of my food highlights include their pork cheek with spiced plum, cod with crispy squid and chorizo, and the incredible cuts of lamb with flavoursome veg and creamy potato. The slower speed at which I ate everything made the whole experience more intense and flavoursome, and the dishes kept me full for the rest of the day. 

As I am currently lactose-free, I did worry that my diet would restrict me from trying some of their dishes, but they were prepared and more than happy to work around it, sourcing equally as delicious alternatives to some of the ingredients. For example, dessert entailed gorgeous fresh berries with pink meringue and sweet lactose-free ice-cream – mouthwateringly divine, and the cherry on top to a truly tasteful evening.

My stay at Plas Dinas was made all the better by the hosts, Daniel and Annie. Whilst I was unfortunately unable to meet Annie in person, she was helpful and friendly in the booking process, and then Daniel was very charismatic and eager to show me his personal favourite parts of the house. We were well cared for throughout the course of our stay, with the several staff members we met being very lovely and hospitable. Together, the team made sure that we were well looked after, and were always ready to offer any additional services that we may have needed. 

This trip feels like a world away from the stresses surrounding us from Covid-19, and I cannot wait to go back when this is all over. The house embodies everything a country house should – luxury, an abundance of gorgeous food, and lovely hosts. 

*For reference, my ultimate favourite Royal is Queen Victoria, due to her relations with India and her death-defying love for her husband. She was a controversial ruler in many respects, but I feel as though her genuine love and respect for others cannot be doubted.

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THE HISTORY

Prior to my arrival, I had been enticed by the history of the hotel – the fact that it’s the city’s oldest continuously operating hotel after opening in 1927. Marie Dempcy – who now co-owns the hotel – became Seattle’s first female hotel general manager, and helped turn Mayflower Park into the gem that it is today. The long history of the hotel is certainly evident in the beautiful open-plan lobby with old-world furnishings, tasteful vintage decor, and glistening crystal chandeliers – and I fell in love immediately.

THE AMENITIES (NAMELY – COFFEE)

As I walked into my suite, I was greeted with a gorgeous parlour where a staple glass table sat in the middle, a plethora of local magazines laid across it. Having come to Seattle with zero plans, I wanted nothing more than to just fall back onto the sofa and scour their pages for inspiration. However, first thing’s first – coffee.*

There was a small selection of Starbucks coffee on a wooden stand – unsurprising, considering Seattle is the home of the famed coffeehouse chain. I freshly brewed some Caffeè Verona, and it was so rich and cocoa-y that for the first time in my LIFE I didn’t add sugar as I didn’t want to risk ruining the flavour. As there were little branded takeaway cups in my room, I was also able to take out a fresh brew each morning when I inevitably had to do a last minute-dash outside because I’d lost track of time (although that’s possibly not the intended use).

THE SUITE

The suite itself was extremely charismatic and charming, with a little desk area where I was able to write some letters home (using the letter writing set I found whilst nosying around the drawers). With statement curtains that matched the scalloped trim of the beds, and a three piece-suite of stylishly mismatched furniture. The earth-tone armchairs were perfect to melt into at the end of a long day exploring, feeling cozy and cared for and content as I gazed out of my two large windows. Around me, there were copious paintings and prints lining the walls, rendering it to feel like my own personal art gallery. How rare is it that it feels just as good to stay in the hotel as it does to explore the city?

I would fall asleep easy each night, swathed in soft white bedsheets in a bed large enough to accommodate my starfish poses, with the city lights twinkling at me from my open window. Arising in the morning to the pink-hazed morning sun falling on my face, I’d open my eyes to the bustle of city life below weaving around the classic American architecture. I’d find myself getting up each morning approximately four hours earlier than usual – fuelled by an insatiable craving to explore both the city and the chambers of the hotel (and honestly the coffee probably helped). Using the abundance of magazines and travel guides to plan my day ahead, I’d kick back on the sofa with my morning paper (delivered daily), legs up on the gold-tinted steampunk barrel, fortunate to be in this little hotel in Seattle.

I felt as though I were in a juxtaposed time warp – the modern convenience of a flat-screen TV and fast Wi-Fi contrasted the antique steel lamps and distressed frames around the large ballet studio -esque mirrors (which made me hyper-aware of every angle of my outfits).

The bathrooms were both finished with golden and cream striped paper, with a bath perfect for getting lost in and a shower framed with a marble and silver arch. On a normal day, in a normal fairytale-less place, I already find leaving showers one of the hardest things to do. But the showers in the suite, which felt both powerful and soft at the same time (my travel partner didn’t understand that either until he had tried them out himself), I could have spent hours in there. Especially when the bathrooms featured shampoos, conditioners, lotions, and embossed soaps by Antica Farmastica, it was a dangerous temptation to stay in there until my skin was as wrinkled as a prune. By the time I dragged myself out of the shower on the first night, swathed in an opulent fluffy robe, with soft and shiny hair, slathered in Grapefruit-scented lotion, I felt like I was at the height of luxe. Not to be dramatic, but I want to live like this forever.

THE FOOD

In the evenings, I would order room service from Andaluca, their Mediterranean Restaurant. Whilst the restaurant was only a few feet away from the lobby, I could never find myself wanting to leave the comfort of my room after a long, hard day exploring (I blame the 6am starts). Their desserts were absolutely stunning – especially the rich chocolate brownies paired with strawberries. For those of you who like more than just desserts, the famed Oliver’s Lounge is also accessible directly from the lobby – the classy downtown bar which has won numerous awards for their martinis. Perfect.

LEAVING THE HEART OF SEATTLE

When I eventually departed the Mayflower Park Hotel, with the two doormen pulling back the glass doors for me and flashing me their usual big smiles, I felt remarkably sad to be leaving. I, like every other person out there, loves to be spoilt – and man, did the Mayflower Park indulge me.

Starting with the base rate of £92 per night, the Mayflower Park Hotel makes it affordable to (briefly) live in luxury. With gorgeous views, equally as gorgeous coffee, and service to die for, I now refuse to stay anywhere else in Seattle. The hotel is located in the very heart of Seattle, being a five-minute walk from the waterfront and Pike Place, a 40-minute train ride straight to the airport, a three-minute walk from Tiffany and Co. (an essential!). The hotel also connects to Westlake Centre, which offers both a four-storey shopping mall and direct access to the monorail (where it’s only a ten-minute trip to tourist attractions such as the Space Needle.

*I officially feel as though the Mayflower Park Hotel has turned me into a fiend for coffee. Thoughts about when I can possibly get my next Caffeè Verona fill plagues me dearly.

And so, would you guys ever consider staying somewhere like the Mayflower Park Hotel, where you’re endlessly spoilt with views, service, and Starbucks? Let me know in the comments below!

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For the past four months I have been living in Victoria, Canada. I have been based on the East of the island, where I quickly found myself consumed by a relative amount of stress on a daily basis. Why had no one told me how expensive this country is? Why had I chosen to live in accommodation which looked like a futile mix of a hostel, jail cell, and army barracks? And most importantly – why had I decided to take an intense language course which featured a regional dialect I had never studied before, that would be deeply important to my overall degree grade back home?

I had been trying to use my spare time to sort out my plans for the future, re-organise my business, and of course, send approximately a million essays to university a week. At the end of each day, I would have my blogging responsibilities gnaw at me, but would be too exhausted to sit down, make a tea, and focus on writing a new post. This, mixed with the overall stresses of temporarily moving to another country, meant that I was getting about 0% of the work done which was necessary to balance a degree and a career.

To combat this, I bought last-minute flights to Hawaii (don’t tell my parents!), and went on road trips to Tofino and Portland and Vancouver. I tried to gain inspiration by writing at friends’ houses, or boutique cafes, or even on top of a bloody mountain. NOTHING. WORKED.

That’s when I read a magazine article about Staycations, and thought you know what? Screw it.

That’s where Chateau Victoria comes in. I was walking downtown one day, minding my own business, when I stumbled upon the luxury hotel. A warm orange glow was spilling out from the glass doors onto the street, and a member of staff pulled back said doors to let in a guest, a beaming smile on his face. I was drawn to it immediately, and knew that if I was going to be staying anywhere in the city, I wanted it to be there. The very next day, I finalised a reservation.

This gorgeous hotel is situated in downtown Victoria, amongst the finest restaurants, shops, and establishments in the city. Walking into the lobby, having the glass doors pulled back for me just like they had been for that other guest, I was welcomed into my temporary haven. It was designed exactly like I imagined Donald Trump’s sitting room to be – gold furnishings, marble desks, staff members raring to make everything perfect.

My apartment featured an open plan dining area, with an abstract carpet print mimicking that of a cosy 50’s house style. There is a little kitchen space where I was able to brew fresh coffee every morning, and a kitchen table where I could drink said coffee whilst typing furiously at my Mac. My sole qualm? The kitchen is within eyesight of an exceedingly comfortable sofa suite – the idea of reverting to a couch potato and abandoning all work was definitely tempting.

The living room features this two-piece suite, a third table (there really is an abundance of places to work from), and a large television showcasing all the North American television shows I’ve read about. My favourite part of the living room is that it opens out onto a balcony, where you can sit back and watch the world go by. At night, I would seek out the twinkling lights of Parliament and tiny people going about their daily business, and during the day, I would glance out at mountains and oceans and miles upon miles of places to explore. In the very early hours of the morning, when the sun is at its brightest, I would meander out onto the balcony, green tea in one hand, book in the other, and just let my mind go blank. I’m not sure how or why, but that quickly leads into some of my most inspired writing – and has singlehandedly cured my writer’s block. When your only plans for the evening are to order room service and kick back on the settee, life feels pretty easy.

There are various frames of artwork hanging around the suite, with my favourite blue-and-green rendition featured in the bedroom. A massive king-sized bed sits in the middle of the quarters, where I spend a bit too much time swathing myself in blankets and overtly plump pillows. With tall curtains facing out to towering skyscrapers, I would find myself waking up to the view of a million other people, racing around to partake in the rat race of life. Somehow, seeing other people rush around whilst I am calm and (temporarily) free of responsibility, is oddly inspiring – is there a way to replicate this outside of a Staycation?

Having written some of my best articles milling around the hotel, I was left with an empty feeling when I knew I would have to check out. I took one last bath, submerging myself in bubbles and later slathering on some of the nicest smelling lotion I have ever tried, feeling more relaxed than I had in months.

I realise now that the idea of Staycations isn’t a futile one – instead, staying at this Chateau has completely rejuvenated me, and utterly fixed my writer’s block. I spent my days there wandering down to the sauna – perhaps after taking a swim in the pool – and writing pages upon pages of blog posts and articles. Sometimes, you just feel like getting pampered and dining on food which you haven’t had to slave over, eventually re-entering into civilisation stress-free. According to Christoffer Arfert of Select Saunas, incorporating a sauna into your staycation routine not only enhances relaxation but also supports better circulation and overall wellness, making the experience feel even more restorative.

This post 100% feels like an ad for the Staycation business – but alas, it’s just your favourite blogger talking about how she’s been one heck of an idiot for the past few years. Even Carrie in Sex in the City would go on a Staycation to her home in Manhattan to write an article when she didn’t have the creative space at home. Now who am I to contradict Carrie?

Have you guys ever taken a Staycation – or are you a naysayer like I was? What’s more, have I tempted you into staying at the Chateau Victoria? Let me know in the comments below!

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I recently spent time exploring Tofino, which is a tiny district on Vancouver Island surrounded by ancient rainforest, vast stretches of white beach, and surf shops. Locals follow a laid-back, slow-paced lifestyle, and it is the perfect place to get away from the more crowded parts of the continent. Having spent the past few months living with the residents, I feel as though I am now adequately packed with local knowledge – and ready to share my newly-acquired expertise with you.

Where to stay

LONG BEACH LODGE RESORT

The Long Beach Lodge Resort is hands down one of the best hotels that I have ever had the pleasure of staying at. Our deluxe beachfront room offered a massive two-person bathtub in the wet room (which came with the most divine bath salts) and also had shutters overlooking the bedroom, and subsequently, the VIEW. The room features a large balcony which looks out to a perfect vista – distant mountains, pearl-coloured sand, tall emerald trees, and, best of all, the ocean. Ideal for when the sun was out, we could kick back on the balcony sipping green teas from silk teabags and martinis from tall glasses, looking out to the lazy rolling waves and soft pink skies.

We had both fluffy bath robes and sturdy Helly Hanson raincoats in the room, which we could use to wear down to the sauna, or out to the ocean on a rough day. One of my favourite pastimes involves laying back in an armchair and reading my book – and I could do exactly that in front of our fireplace, in a room which I imagine my future book chamber to replicate. The hotel itself is gorgeous, with curio wooden furnishings, cast iron and granite decorations, and hallways showcasing local artwork. I had a wonderful stay, and it definitely offered me the perfect haven to unwind from the accumulated stresses of travel. If there is one place that you have to bunker down at in Tofino, it’s here.

THE WICKANNINISH INN

Being someone who has a big fat crush on everything architecture and interior design related, the Wickanninish Inn was perfect for me. It is incredibly unique, with every decoration and item of furniture being handmade and locally sourced, and each painting showcasing the works of local artists. Every aspect of the hotel has this stunning history behind it, and honestly, it is divine. They feature many rustic elements – such as driftwood rocking chairs, bathtub views overlooking miles upon miles of ocean, suites with lounges stuffed with books and open fireplaces – along with more modern items, such as flat screens which pop out of the bedroom cupboards. It’s very pretty, and the perfect place for a retreat out of the city. Also – their cafe offers the most gorgeous chocolate muffins and green tea seeped through paper funnels!

Where to Eat

LONG BEACH LODGE RESORT

I can’t recommend the Long Beach Lodge Resort enough – especially as they offer the best evening meal in the whole of Tofino. Not only was the food incredible, but the view was absolutely breathtaking. As we sat eating our meal, we were able to glance out at the red and orange hues of the setting sun, mirrored in the silent waves. Something about the hazy light and the relaxed atmosphere had me and my travel partner talking for hours about things we’ve never revealed to each other before. It was weird, and magical, and wonderful.

In regards to the food itself, every item of produce is locally sourced, with all of their fresh seafood harvested in a sustainable manner. My favourite dishes include their confit duck leg (with celery root slaw, apply, and toasted almonds), the muscle and clam dish (served in a gorgeous broth with shaved fennel and parsley), the scallop risotto, the lingcod (with stripe shrimp, roasted squash and citrus emulsion), and the polenta. Their hummus is the smoothest that I have ever tasted, and the bread that they bring to the table before you meal was ridiculously tempting for me throughout the evening (I can’t digest gluten, and yet there I was, gnawing on this beguiling bread). For those of you with a sweet tooth, you can’t go wrong with their classic chocolate brownie dish, or their oversized French macaron.

TACOFINO

Quite frankly, this place was love at first bite. I’d heard so much about it, and visited the sister company in Victoria – but it didn’t come close to comparing to this little food truck. Something about the atmosphere of tens of complete strangers hanging out on wooden benches in the sun, snacking on tacos and burritos and tamales, is oddly alluring to me. The people are the friendliest and it is such a nice place to really sit back and take it all in.

SHELTER

Shelter is arguably the best place to spend a late afternoon – kicking back in their plush armchairs by a small open fire, listening to chill music which you will no doubt Shazam the heck out of, all whilst gorging on some of the most gorgeous food. I have never had such a charismatic waiter before in my life than I had at Shelter, and it would be exceedingly difficult to feel down when he’d bring out a plate of yam fries or buttermilk chicken or a ridiculously fat burger, and be super charming as he did so. It’s a lovely little place, and definitely one of the best on the island.

WOLF IN THE FOG

Absolutely every dish is delicious, submerged in a plethora of stunning flavours. Whilst you try the crab arancini, or the tuna and pork jowl, or the halibut with assorted shellfish, you will be submerged in the loveliest ambience. The whole restaurant is lit up with a warm colour scheme, enhanced by the wooden furnishings and locally designed earth-tone decorations. Soft chatter filters over smooth jazz, and you can see the chefs working at their stations on the far side of the room. Waiters wear plaid flannel, and let you take your time as you devour the food. The food menus themselves are about an eighth the size of the wine menu – which suggests that both the owner and I have the same priorities in order. For dessert, I highly recommend their gala apple – and not solely because of how #InstaWorthy the presentation is.

CHOCOLATE TOFINO

Chocolate Tofino is, quite frankly, a woefully dangerous place for a chocolate fiend like I to venture into. You step into their teensy-tiny little shop, surrounded by glass rows of hand-decorated truffles and chocolates, with workers in this Willy Wonka-esque set-up folding and garnishing the products behind the counter. They offer a wide selection of goodies, with my favourite being their “hedgehog” ice-cream and wildflower honey ganache – and, truth be told, every single item in their Happy Pack. The latter is a little parcel showcasing a variety of the locals’ favourite chocolates, from their strawberry cream starfish to their wild blackberry buttercreams, to their hazelnut rainforest crispy logs. Everything is so unique and pretty and made with love, and I love every second there (and bite!). It took all the willpower I have to not demolish every bit of chocolate instantly.

WHAT TO DO

LEARN TO SURF

One thing that you absolutely must do during your time in Tofino is mimic the locals and fling yourself on top of a surfboard. In my opinion, the best company to do this with is Pacific Surf Co – and let me tell you why.

I had my first ever surf lesson with these guys, arriving in-tow with my travel partner who, frankly, cannot swim for the life of him. Whilst highly entertaining for me to glance out at him every five minutes in the water as he erupted from the ocean and spat out sea foam, our instructor was the nicest ever and helped him learn to stay above the waves. We went out as a small group, where we were in turn introduced to the fundamentals of both catching a wave and being able to safely read the water – and despite both myself and my land-bourne travel partner being relatively nervous before starting, by the end of it we felt fully prepared and ready to go.

Once I was in the water, my main fear of freezing to death utterly dissipated as my wetsuit clung to me like blubber, keeping me warm against the frosty ocean. It didn’t take me long to find myself getting real cocky, as I felt ready enough to wade out in water up to my hips. The waves were slowly getting higher and more powerful, and somehow I managed to lose grip of my board and have it cut in front of me. As one massive wave started towards me, I pushed my head under the water and out of the way of my board, where I was pulled under by the waves. Seconds later, when I was finally released from the surge, I stood up coughing up sea salt and having snot run down my face as the instructor gave me a big thumbs up. I was told that it was a good thing I moved and didn’t get knocked completely unconscious by my board, and was advised on how to turn it into a sick wave. When we left Tofino several days later, I was covered in some very pretty bruises – reminders that I’d tried something epic, loved it, and had the battle wounds to prove it.

VISIT THE HOT SPRINGS COVE

Another one of the best things to do in Tofino is to visit the hot springs on the Sidney Inlet. There are several companies that run here, but I personally recommend Jamie’s Whaling Station as they tend to get you as one of the first groups there (it does get busy!) – also offering the chance to stop and view wildlife on the way.

In my experience of the tour to the cove, we discovered on the ride that a member of our group was actually deathly terrified of boats – and she was here, on a boat ride. The staff was calm and collected as my travel partner and I shook our heads in disbelief as this lass burst into tears, going right out of their way to avoid the sharp corners of the choppy waves. Regardless, the ride there was beautiful, and we were told that if our skipper were to continue piloting south, there would be nothing but clear waves between us and Antarctica (can I hear, impromptu day trip?).

When you arrive at the forest on the Sidney Inlet, it takes a half an hour boardwalk to get to the heart of the springs. The second I clocked that we would be the first ones to jump into thw water, I decided to dive right in – and let me tell you, there’s a reason why they don’t merely call it the “Vaguely Lukewarm Springs.” It was 53°C and so ridiculously hot that it immediately caused our limbs to sizzle and glow bright pink, making my head swim after ten minutes. In the end, we spent nearly three hours soaking back in the water, and it both relaxed the heck out of me and made me feel as though I could pass right out. Every single person that has ever visited Tofino has visited the Hot Springs Cove (probably, but don’t quote me on that), and a trip to the area really isn’t complete without a saunter around the springs.

CHECK OUT LOCAL ARTISTS

I mentioned that local hotels such as the Wickanninish Inn display the works of many of the local artists in their suites – and with good reason. For pieces that are unique and made with love, why not spend a free hour wandering around the open woodwork stores, and kitsch little home-reared galleries? Even boutique stores are run by people with a flair for art, and a mere clothing browse can easily end up with you falling in love with a new painting or photograph. Tofino is such a gorgeous place – and the art scene definitely doesn’t let it down.

GO WILDLIFE WATCHING

Tofino, being part of Western BC, is unsurprisingly choc-a-block with wildlife. Going out on a pre-planned tour is  one of the best ways of securing a sighting from up close, without ending up directly facing off with a black bear. On a single boat ride, you may expect to see porpoise, seals, grey whales, orcas, and otters – and I saw all five on my ride to the Hot Springs! Looking out to land, you can spot wolves, cougars, and bears – definitely the best way to get a glimpse into the wild side of Canada.

EXPLORE THE HIKING TRAILS

Frankly, you can’t really say that you’ve visited Tofino until you’ve conquered their many hiking trails. There are many to choose from, with local favourites being the South Beach Trail, Wild Pacific Lighthouse Loop, and every inch of Maquinna Marine Provincial Park. Be sure to do research on the trails beforehand – some, such as the walk around the crashed bomber site, may be unsuitable in certain conditions, or too extreme for an average hiker to attempt.

TAKE A BEACH DAY

Honestly, the only place in the world that compares to the beaches in Tofino, is Wales (although I may be slightly biased on the latter). Everywhere you go in Tofino, you will find yourself surrounded by vast rolling waves and sparkling white sand. Honestly, there’s no escape – you’re encircled by the vista from your hotel bathroom, and a cafe window, and the balcony you grab martinis at after dinner. The seaside is such a staple to the local Tofino life, that it is literally impossible to not spend at least one day loitering on the sand.

Some of my favourite beaches are Cox Bay, Chesterman Beach, Mackenzie Beach, and Long Beach. They all feature distant mountains, glistening blue ocean, and condensation coming from the waves which settles like smoke over the horizon (rendering the most gorgeous, soft, hazy views). The only downside is that during these colder months, the water is so chilly that when you submerge your half-naked body in for even half a minute, the hypothermia kicks in and you quickly start to feel as though you’re burning. That could just be me, though.

HOW TO GET THERE

TOFINO ALL ISLAND EXPRESS

One of the easiest ways to travel to Tofino is via a coach from the larger cities. Whilst it may take longer than it would to drive, you get to kick back in comfort, knowing that you have several hours to yourself. My favourite part of the All Island Express is that the windows are nice and big – perfect for staring out at the stunning scenery around you.

HITCHHIKE OR DRIVE

Whilst taking a bus is perhaps the most convenient way of travelling to Tofino, it may be more beneficial to have more control over your transportation if you want to explore nearby towns and islands. Due to the fact that it is c-o-s-t-l-y to drive yourself all the way up to the area, why not consider hitchhiking, like your old pal Amy? I found myself travelling the breadth of the place in a bright yellow school bus, kicking back in a kid called Marco’s assigned seat, feeling like I was finally a background actor in an American movie.

Have you guys ever been to Tofino, or want to drop everything and leave right now? Or do you fancy visiting one of the other absolutely gorgeous places in British Columbia? Let me know in the comments below!

But before you do – why not share the love and pin this post?

YOUR SPECIAL OCCASION ISN’T THAT SPECIAL

Simply saying “it’s my birthday” or “we’re celebrating an anniversary” may not be enough – loads of guests staying in the hotel will be celebrating some kind of occasion. Instead, mentioning that you’re travelling for “business” (extra points if you say it ominously) is far more likely to score you that upgrade. 

BECOME A REGULAR

Likewise to the above, if you mention that you’re a regular then they’re more likely to offer you that sweet upgrade. Props to you if you actually are  a regular – and not just because it’s a fun place to heed over multiple mistresses.

COMPLAIN

I don’t condone this one, but if you complain about your room after first stepping into it, then you can almost bet that the hotel staff will give you an alternate, likely better room. I once stayed in a hotel with peeling wallpaper and mould in their walls – free upgrades here I come.

BE NICE, LOOK NICE

Remember that please and thank-you really does go a long way – especially when matched with a smart outfit. Being polite and looking presentable can be important factors when trying to get a nicer room.

USE A LOYALTY PROGRAM

Credit card schemes such as the AMEX (not a sponsor, I swear) rewards cards often offer upgrades as part of the package. Joining a loyalty program for the hotel itself could also put you first in line for an upgrade.

USE A REBOOKING SITE

Websites such as triprebel.com and yapta.com will automatically upgrade your room should one become available for the same price you paid when booking, or give you the money back should the price drop. It’s an awesome idea, and works especially well when booked in advance.

STAY DURING QUIET TIMES 

It should be pretty obvious, but avoiding public holidays and weekends – the busiest times for hotels – should help your case when asking for an upgrade. When they’re receiving less bookings for rooms, they’re more likely to throw out their unsold upgrades.

HAGGLE AT 6PM

The prime time to ask for an upgrade is around 6pm the night of your stay, as it’s the golden time for freebies. The hour between the majority of check-ins and home-time for the workers, 6pm is when the hotel is most likely to give away upgrades due to the unlikeliness of actually selling them.

ONLY STAY FOR ONE NIGHT

It’s also a lot more likely that you will only get the option for a one-night upgrade, due to the availability of rooms. It just doesn’t seem viable that they’d offer an upgrade to someone staying three or so nights – they’d be missing out on people that actually spend money on good rooms. Same goes for the amount of people – you’re much more likely to get an upgrade as a couple than a party of six.

ASK FOR SPECIFICS

Rather than just asking for an upgrade, mention that you would like a sea view or a room on a higher floor. The latter, as a rule of thumb, tend to be nicer and more expensive the higher up you go.

BOOK THE SECOND CHEAPEST ROOM

Or the third, or the forth. If you book their most affordable room, you’re really pushing your luck to then try and score one of the most expensive. Instead, if you go one or two price bands up, the staff is much more likely to bump you up a grade or two.

There are also other things that you could do, such as not making any specific requests at the time of booking (they may allocate your room ahead of time), and even sliding a $20 note towards the receptionist (although that technically renders it not a free upgrade). I hope some of my tips help you guys kick back in a Presidential, and if so – let me know in the comments below!

BUT BEFORE YOU DO – WHY NOT SHARE THE LOVE AND PIN THIS POST?

Having just returned from a gorgeous hostel stay, I’ll be the first to admit that my mindset in regards to travel accommodation used to be that they’re just places to rest, and can be as low-quality as they like. After all, I have stayed in rotting rooms in Dublin, pest-swarmed hotels just out of Istanbul, and windowless holes in Warsaw – and couldn’t have cared less. Or at least, that was until I decided to lay down in a luxury hotel, having been swept in with the promise of spa treatments and a panoramic view of the capital.

Trailing a room with windows thrice as long as the super-king-sized bed, with my own dining area and large nude-coloured washroom with a deep-set tub and glass shower, I had stepped into a world unimaginably different to what I was used to. Laying back in my armchair with the option of pastries and desserts brought to the door, I felt like I could happily spend my days exploring the chambers of the hotel – if only I could summon the intent to leave the room.

The rules of day-to-day life seem to disappear upon entrance to the hotel – think mid-morning cocktails in the luxury lounge and casual dips to the Hammam. Arise greeted by charming staff serving breakfast sourced from local farmers, located less than five minutes away from the main shopping district. Easy city links surpass the hotel, with the calm pace of Welsh life awaiting the front door step.

Everyone knows that I’m inexplicably in love with Wales, and so it’s no question that the capital is one of my favourite places to venture to. The bustle of city life intertwines with the laid-back nature of the country, and comes together in a mix of welcoming locals, endless places to explore, and Welsh cakes. The hotel is located within easy travel distance to Cardiff Castle, the Wales Millennium Centre, and Cardiff Bay – and for any Gavin and Stacey lovers out there, a trip to Barry Island is not off the table.

The hotel restaurant is an expert in “bistronomy” – French fine dining with an unpretentious twist. The casual atmosphere and waiters with a genuine interest in their guests renders a dining experience that is worth more than just food – and with luxe decor and design, every aspect of taste is catered to.

I would arise each morning swathed in pristine bedsheets with the sun falling on me through the silky blinds, opening my eyes to the Victorian architecture and early-risers bustling outside. How would I begin each day – a trip to the spa, a dip in the pool, a French breakfast brought to the dining area of my room?

Starting with the base rate of £97 per night, the Mercure Holland House Hotel and Spa makes a luxe stay affordable. The spacious rooms, Jacuzzis, and opulent room service are features I have missed out on during so many trips away, but my opinion has now definitely been altered.

Now, over to you guys – what’s your mindset on hotels? Do you think you could ever be swayed? Let me know in the comments below!

To find out more about some of the best ways to spend a weekend in Cardiff, check out my friend Amber’s post on her recent trip to the city!