(To read my first ever big travel feature, check out my piece in Hidden Europe!)

‘

Before I left the farm, I got a ride from Juan, the owner, to the nearest town. We drove in silence pretty much the entire way.

‘What’s next?’ Juan asked, surprising me. He held out a hand for me to shake, and years of hard farm work were evident in the thick, tough skin.

It was one helluva question, and one which I didn’t have the answer to. Because at the end of the day, what could you possibly say to the man that has everything?

*And I did all of this whilst wearing my beautiful Magnesite stone bracelet from Molavaco.

Three years ago, I actually moved to Madrid for a short while – and I haven’t stopped thinking about it since. I’ve used this time in Wales’ third lockdown to come up with the perfect two-week itinerary for a Spanish road trip. You’re welcome.

DAY ONE – ARRIVE IN VALENCIA

I thought that it would be fun to begin this central Spain road trip a little to the southeast, so that you can work your way west and into the heart of Spain. To begin with, Valencia – a place that is all about sunsets and mountains and 8pm trips to the beach.

In the morning, visit a prehistoric cave in Benidoleig called Cueva de las Calaveras. It is super cool and reminds me a little of Dan-yr-Ogof. Spend perhaps an hour there before driving to El Castillo de Guadalest to see gorgeous rock formations and an unbelievably bright teal reservoir. The surroundings are a mix of Machu Picchu and the Grand Canyons, with some classic Bali-esque fields added for the fun of it – I can promise, it’s one of the most beautiful things you’ve ever seen.

Whilst you’re there, you should eat at El Mirador for an incredible view of the town, along with delicious food and the friendliest staff ever. This is the first place of many where my Spanish dad told me, ‘Amy, live life slowly, don’t rush. Savour each – cómo se dice? – bite.’

DAY TWO – DÉNIA

Just after the sun has risen, you should head to Las Fuentes del Algar, a miniature paradise. It features very blue, very clear, very cold water, and a beautiful waterfall. The rock formations surrounding you are utterly breathtaking, and the walk through the greenery to the Algar is sure to leave you entranced.

Dénia is a beautiful port city with a stunning castle, gorgeous food, and delicious wine. This is the sort of place where you should spend the afternoon exploring before settling down for food amongst loud evening fiestas, passing through their cool cave tunnel to the restaurants to try sepia, fish heads, and baby squid. There’s a really interesting market here which flourishes at night, and with the distant mountains lit by the moon, it is truly beautiful.

DAY three – ALTEA AND PILES

Altea is one of those fairytale towns which are completely devoid of tourists and painted a beautiful canvas of clean white and bright blue. The old town is my favourite place here, with the cute little shops and the stone buildings.

After walking through the medieval town square and meandering along the very long promenade, head to Piles for a gorgeous place to kick back and relax. Piles is super special because one of the watchtowers to defend Valencia against north-African forces was built here in 1577 – it’s a place that hasn’t changed, even though history has.

DAY FOUR – OLIVA AND MADRID

Spend the morning at Oliva to experience their wonderful market – where you will find yourself not-so-subtly getting ripped off until you speak to the vendors in Spanish. Grab some food at one of their many delicious restaurants and cafes, and have one last wander around the sleepy Spanish town. In the late afternoon, begin the long drive to Madrid.

Ah, Madrid. My favourite Spanish city, my home for three whole months… I miss it everyday. I was a bit skeptical about spending such a long time in Madrid at first because I didn’t think it would have a whole lot to it, but when I visited the bookstores and tried the food and spent the evenings with my adoptive Spanish family, I couldn’t help but love it. One thing to remember – when the shops close, the Real Madrid comes out.

DAY FIVE – MADRID

Even after months of living in Madrid, I still hadn’t seen it all. It’s the sort of place that you need to spend years in to properly figure out, but for the purpose of this guide, I’m going to give you just a few days.

There are so many things to see in Madrid, with my absolute favourites being:

• The Royal Archeological Museum
• The Royal Palace
• Templo de Debod
• Reina Sofia
• Malasaña
• Ayuntamiento de Madrid
• Edificio Metropolis
• Museo Nacional del Prado
• The millions of outdoor cinemas that play wonderful films in the summer

DAY SIX – VISIT LOCAL TOWNS

Now we can get into the real heart of Spain. This day should be slower paced and more laid back due to the fact that you would have had a pretty hectic past week. Who could blame you if it’d taken it out of you?

Móstoles and Alcorcón are two lovely little towns in Madrid, and are probably my favourite local places to visit. I attended my first ever big Spanish family dinner in the latter, and went for a late-night photography session to see the blood moon in the former. They’re both pretty special.

DAY seven – Alcalá de henares

During my visit to Alcalá de Henares, an old local lady came up to me outside a church and began rattling off Spanish at Godspeed. In my broken Spanish I was like hey, could you please speak slow, I don’t understand everything you’re saying and she merely shot me a look, said no, and continued on with her ramble. I didn’t quite get what she was saying, but I got the gist that I should walk to the castle ruins and visit the local park, which were both really cool experiences that I highly recommend. It’s a really interesting place with very interesting people, and some of things that you absolutely must see during your visit are:

• Plaza de Cervantes
• Laredo palace
• Casa de Hippolytus
• Archbishop’s Palace of Alcalá de Henares
• Monumento a Manuel Azaña
• Castle of Alcalá la Vieja

day eight – Guadalajara

I cannot express my love for Guadalajara – but I know that the main reason why I loved it so much was because it was super freaky. It was so deserted, I felt like I’d stumbled straight into Chernobyl. Shutters closed. Cafes closed. The whole town, completely dead and decrepit.

Guadalajara seems to be built like an old western movie, but with a distant hum of electricity. I’m sure I even had a ball of tumbleweed roll past me. As the day grew later, eventually people began to leave the houses, and I was able to practise my Spanish with people that knew where Birmingham was but not Wales.

Guadalajara is one place that you have to visit, even if it’s just because of how eccentric it is. It’s really weird, and I love it for it. All you should do today is walk around, take it in, and when old men profess their love for you, blow a few kisses back.

day nine – Segovia

The views on the way to Segovia are truly breathtaking, and that’s only the beginning. When you walk into the city you’ll be greeted by a rich architectural legacy, with medieval walls, Romanesque churches, and an iconic ancient Roman aqueduct which has more than 160 arches. Plaza Azoguejo is in the heart of Segovia and offers gorgeous food, beautiful views of the city, and adorable little bookstores. When I visited, the weather was absolutely horrendous so the place was almost completely desolate, but the sporadic downpour and thunder only made it more intense.

day ten – San Lorenzo el Escorial

I went to this wonderful monastery in the mountains of El Escorial and holy cow, it was the most beautiful place in the world. The concentration of basilicas and tombs and marble had me constantly picking my jaw back up off the ground, and I fully couldn’t comprehend why  people hype up the Sistine chapel so much when this place exists.

They have an incredible little square with pop-up bookstores and events, and it’s such a strong local vibe that I have no doubt you’ll be the only outsider there. One of the most beautiful views here has to be from inside the monastery in a marble sala which overlooks hedge mazes framed by chapel spires and mountain ranges. It’s incredible.

day eleven – Toledo

When I first arrived in Toledo I could definitely see why everyone made such a fuss about it. As you exit the bus station you’re welcomed into this new world of ruined monasteries and crumbling castles and antiquated stone houses. I hitchhiked for the first time on the way back from the Mirador del Valle when I was too lazy from the heat and the trek, and the people who picked me up couldn’t stop talking about what there was to see in the city. Jewish quarters, Christian quarters, Muslim quarters – it’s the sort of place where you will often find yourself lost amongst the stonework, alone in history apart from lone pigeons cooing overhead.

It was quite possibly the most beautiful place that I had seen in central Spain, and the fact that it was so big and so empty and so much resembling a medieval storybook about witches and gingerbread men made it a million times better. I don’t know why so many of these towns are deserted – but avoiding the tourists really does make it much more special.

day twelve – Aranjuez and manzanares el real

Aranjuez is another one of those places where everything just feels a little… off. You walk into the city on an old dust road, where either side of you are half-knocked-down buildings and little traditional sand-coloured houses. You walk around the corner, and then bam, there’s this modest yet incredibly stunning pink, French-influenced Royal Palace, yet again devoid of all life. I went in, and for a good while it was just me and the palace, alone.

After, I wandered the streets and parks, passing locals washing in the outdoor fountains and drinking at little bars. I loved the simplicity and sheer aged beauty of it all, and think that it really is another one of those places that you simply cannot afford to miss. The Jardín de la Isla and the Casa del Labrador are two of the most beautiful places in the world.

Then you should head to Manzanares el Real to spend the rest of the day in a cute little Spanish town that smells of freshly baked bread and coffee. They have this really cool castle with incredible views of the town, and the locals are probably some of the nicest people ever. A great way to end the day.

day thirteen – Chinchón and cercedilla

Chinchón is a quaint old town with, surprisingly enough, more empty streets. The whole place feels a little weird with the lack of people, but the second you walk into a bar at 1pm you’ll be greeted by the whole town and their landlords. This makes sense as Chinchón is the home of the sweet anise liquor which is macerated for half day in wine and distilled in copper stills.

The best part about the town is the medieval Plaza Mayor, surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, and gorgeous buildings with green wooden balconies. Wander through the traditional hilltop houses, stay for an event, and try a drink or two. You’re not going to be leaving any time soon.

After a day in Chinchón you should start the drive back to Madrid – but before you do, stop off for a drink in Cercedilla. It’s a weird mountain town that smells a little like nail varnish, but it has a certain charm to it. There are some really pretty churches and museums, and it’s in the perfect location to go for a bike ride or a rock climb. It’s great.

day fourteen – madrid

Finally, finish it back up in your favourite city, Madrid. Take time to revel in the epic things you’ve seen, and go for your last walk along Gran Vía. And breatheeeee.

This post deserves a massive thank you to my au pair family in Madrid, who took care of me for months and put up with me doing things such as eating all of my cereal in a day, baking spicy Welsh cakes, and refusing to get in the ocean. Thank you for letting me into your home and for allowing me to be part of a strong, loving, Spanish family. You’re all great, and I can’t wait to see you all again in the future 🙂

And so, please let me know in the comments when you use this itinerary, and let me know if you see anything that I have somehow missed out!

BUT BEFORE YOU DO – WHY NOT SHARE THE LOVE AND PIN THIS POST?

After much editing and re-editing, I bring you the PERFECT 26-day travel guide to some of the most beautiful areas on earth, featuring the absolute best Spain group tours. You can thank me later.

ARGUEDAS – RECOMMENDED STAY: 2 DAYS

Arguedas is a teensy tiny little town nestled at the bottom of the Navarra mountain range, and is the perfect place to start off your trip. With a little over 2,000 inhabitants, the town itself isn’t exactly big – but there are some truly incredible gems tucked away if you only know where to look.

The town is gorgeous, with eagles and vultures in the sky and snakes on the ground and served on plates. I stayed here for a full week with the nicest family ever, and will think of the fairytale town with fondness. One of the kookiest highlights from my own trip was when I was crafting with the eldest child in the family when the loudest sound erupted from outside; I asked the kid about it and she said that it was “the bombs.” I assumed this was a joke – but as it happens, a couple hours later the mum explained that we were actually living on a military testing site. So be careful where you walk! 

LAS CUEVAS DE ARGUEDAS – Built several moons ago by inhabitants of Arguedas who couldn’t afford a house to live in, these caves are now vacated and open to explore. There’s never any tourists clogging up the pathways, and it is a truly incredible place to walk around and soak up history. At night these caves seem to glow an almost golden colour, and the surrounding hillsides are ideal for cycling or hiking, and lend to the most iconic views of gorges and forest. Whilst I was on one walk one afternoon around the caves, I had to stop to let a shepherd and his flock go past – and ended up being overtaken by approximately 150 sheep, who glared at me and rang the little bells on their necks. This may or may not have been the inspiration behind myself taking up a job as a goat herder several months later – but that’s a story for another day.

VISIT A GRANJA – I visited my first local granja with my host family, and it was one of the most incredible things I have ever seen. To start with, there was a gigantic pool that overlooked the golden caves which turned even more palatial as the sun began to set. I was shown how to collect eggs from chickens for the first time and was able to feed the rams by hand, and it really was an amazing experience. Plus, the air was thick and dusty, making the sunset even more dramatic and the whole experience more magical. If you get the opportunity at any point during your visit, you absolutely must visit a local granja – just be wary that at some point, you may get pulled into helping with the livestock tagging.

WOMEN’S WALL – No matter how hard I tried, I could not find the official name of this wall. Maybe it’s the local bombas that are detering the tourists? Either way, it is such a cool thing to see that I simply had to include it. In essence, it is a large brick wall painted with images of some of the most influential women of the past hundred years, from Malala to Earhart. It’s a pretty inspiring thing to stumble upon considering it is situated in this tiny, old-fashioned Spanish pueblo, and was the last thing I expected to see whilst ambling through the town. Plus, the smooth roads are perfect for exploring the town via rollerskates – everyone else is doing it, after all.

IGLESIA SAN ESTEBAN – Not only is this a really beautiful building, but the birds that flock to nest in the top of the tower are equally as stunning. When the sun is low and the air is sweet and there are hundreds of pelirrojos above your head, it’s kind of hard to feel anything negative.

EL BALCONICO DE LOS MOROS – Climb to the top of this grassy area, and you will be rewarded with arguably the best view of the town available. From way up here, you can glimpse the pelicans roosting in the church, the tiny ants of people minding about their business below, and of course, the distant mountain ranges and the yellow-topped roofs leading up to them. It’s all very pretty.

SENDAVIVA – Sendaviva is this gigantic adventure park filled with exotic animals and things to get really hands-on with. Myself and the eldest daughter went together on this terrifying tubing ride where we found ourselves high up in the Spanish hills overlooking millions of miles of bosque, sitting in a fragile little tube to be plunged through the air. It is absolutely petrifying, but fun; and as is typical of Arguedas, also very beautiful. They have slightly less spooky activities that you can also get involved in, such as pedalo riding and fake crab fishing, and all in all, it’s simply a great place to visit. 

ELIZONDO – RECOMMENDED STAY: 1 DAY

In Basque country, the name Elizondo means ‘house beside the church.’ The town itself is very quaint and full of typical old Spanish architecture; and is simply enchanting. One of the highlights of the town has to be Elizondo Bridge, which overlooks the Bidasoa River and the surrounding white-and-gold houses. Wander through the area and stop at a local cafe to try a glass of uva juice, dipping your olives in for the full experience; it is a delicious afternoon snack to try in the capital of the Baztan Valley. 

BAZTAN – RECOMMENDED STAY: 1 DAY

Baztan is a gorgeous little municipality full of waterfalls and forests and breathtaking views. One of the best things has to be undertaking a walk through the Valle de Baztan to visit the Cascada de Xorroxin, a beautiful hideaway waterfall which looks exactly like something right out of a fairytale.

From there, I cannot recommend anything better than a pit-stop for lunch in the little town of Arizkun. Pack up a picnic full of breads, pate, chorizo, and fuet, and wander through the quaint little streets of Errazu feeling fed and content.

BARDENAS REALES – RECOMMENDED STAY: 1 DAY

One of the only deserts in Europe – and easily the most breathtaking of them all – Bardenas Reales is probably one of my favourite places in the world. It is such a contrast from the lush, green surrounding hills of Navarra, and the badlands landscape is only made all that more impressive for it’s out-of-place-ness.

Look up and you will see golden eagles and Egyptian vultures, and look down and you might just glimpse a salamandre or even a wildcat. Castildetierra is one of the most iconic sites in the area, with the name translating to ‘castle of the earth.’ It was created many timelines ago by the placement of a rock on top of a fragile pyramid of earth, which over time has eroded to become the iconic site that it is today.

The landscape is reminiscent of old dinosaur movies, or movies about bloodthirsty Vikings (many A Game of Thrones scenes were filmed here). The pink sunset and the warm breeze  and the golden landscape all made for one helluva experience, and I will forever be in love with Bardenas. The clay, chalk, and sandstone formations are the most incredible I have ever seen in my life.

Along with Castildetierra, I also love El Barranco Grande, where you can stare at the insides of a canyon and run across the deep, dry gorges. There are several cave-like formations which you can flit between, losing yourself in chasms of stone and dust.

Also, the Spanish Air Force undertakes their training in this area, carrying out the bombings that would shake my host family’s house. The area is called Polígono de Tiro de las Bardenas, and to drive past it is pretty cool – just don’t get too close.

La Cabaña de Froilán

Froilán is the last inhabitant of the Bardenas, having recently turned 89 years old. No tourist sites seem to mention him, and the only glimpses and references I could obtain of his life were from my host family and a few scattered Spanish sites. As the story goes, his grandfather shared the same name and was a shepherd from the Pyrenean town of Urzainki, living an ancient and isolated was of life that this Junior Froilán still lives. He spends eight months a year in the same old stone hut that his father raised, sheltered by a hill in the Bardena Blanca. It is a modest home without electric light or chairs, but he is rich with health, his flock, and the nourishment of tradition. He possesses the immense wealth of those who need little, living in tune with nature and, arguably, the essence of life itself.

ZARAGOZA – RECOMMENDED STAY: 3 DAYS

Zaragoza is an ancient city which is believed to have been founded around 14BC. It is the only Roman city in the world to have featured the full name of the Roman Emperor Caesar Augustus. Nowadays, the city has some of the best features of popular Spanish cities – the artwork and random sculptures of Barcelona; the beautiful cafes of Madrid; the Hispano-Islamic architecture of Seville. Zaragoza really is a city that has everything.

ALJAFERÍA PALACE – Is one of the first sites that welcomed me to Zaragoza, and let me tell you that it was absolutely one of the best first impressions ever. Suddenly this imposing golden palace with gorgeous features of Islamic architecture peeked out of the foliage, growing more imposing and dramatic as the view gradually became clearer. Incorporating beautiful Mudéjar elements, over the past nine centuries this palace has been used to house Catholic Kings, military barracks, and the headquarters of parliament, which still lay here today.

THE ERBO RIVER – One of my favourite things to do in Zaragoza is to go for a walk along the riverside, following it as it snakes around banks of antiquated buildings. If you walk to the Puente de Piedra – a bridge made of stones, built in the 15th century – you are able to see one of the most incredible views of the basilica and the river. It’s also a lot of fun to sit in a secluded spot on the banks as little ducks swim past you and sunlight flitters through the trees. It’s all just very beautiful.

BASÍLICA DE NUESTRA SEÑORA – Easily my favourite thing in the whole of Zaragoza, this basílica is absolutely breathtaking. It has the most magnificent exterior – a mix of classical Islamic design and the typical white marble Catholic walls – and the surrounding square is the perfect place to stop for a coffee and take it all in. Inside is absolutely massive, and mass here is on a whole different level.

The baroque elements of this incredible cathedral come together to make it (in my opinion) the most beautiful part of the city. It is also said that this basilica was built on the spot where Jesus’ disciple, Santiago (AKA James), saw the Virgin Mary ascend to the top of a marble pillar.

TEATRO DE CAESARAUGUSTA – This Zaragoza Roman Theatre was built in the Age of Tiberius and Claudius in the 1st Century AD and had a grand capacity of 6,000 people. Whilst you can see the theatre easily from the street, there is also a museum which you can enter to learn more about the history and the excavation of this incredible site.

GALERÍA RICARDO OSTALE – Probably my favourite gallery in the whole of Spain, this gorgeous, albeit small, gallery, is filled to the brim with endless items from my own personal taste in art. From wooden masks to tiny metal sculptures to paintings of grand landscapes and beautiful people, it’s so easy to lose yourself for an hour or two. Plus, entrance is free!

CASA DEL LIBROS – This large, three storey store is filled with a comprehensive collection of modern Spanish books, along with translated retellings and originals. I read my way through ancient cities and forbidden lands, and tested out my fragile knowledge of Spanish in the kids section. Basically a Spanish Waterstones, it’s a sick bookstore.

TEA SHOP OF EAST WEST COMPANY – This tea company is dotted all across the country, and has to be one of my favourites out there. Whilst I visited many East and West company tea stores across endless Spanish cities, I think that this one had to be my favourite. Not only was it equipped with some of the best tea equipment money can buy, but the shop was also filled with many little tea tasters – which I was a tiny bit surprised about considering Spain is still in the centre of a pandemic. The staff was super, super lovely, and it really is just a pretty nice shop to check out.

EXTRA BEAUTIFUL BUILDINGS TO SEE – whilst I have spoken about some of my favourite spots that I spent a good amount of time in, there a few more buildings that I believe deserve a bit of attention, too. These are the Seo del Salvador, La Lonja, the Iglesia de San Juan de los Panetes, the Edificio de Correos, and the Arco del Deán.

RIBAFORADA – RECOMMENDED STAY: 1 DAY

A really pretty little town to stop for a few hours for a coffee or two, with beautiful old churches (such as the Parroquia San Bartolomé) and lush green walks through fields and across the nearby River Ebro. I spent about four days here, writing and reading and eating, and it was a lot of fun.

TUDELA – RECOMMENDED STAY: 2 DAYS

A very cute town with bustling bars and dilapidated antiquated buildings, reminiscent of a small Toledo. The town was initially founded by the Romans on Celt-Iberian settlements, and has grown into the second biggest city in the Navarra area. The architecture is one of the greatest lures of the city, with a range of Baroque, Renaissance, and Mudéjar buildings.

TORRE MONREAL – A little difficult to access but very cool. Built in the 13th century, this gothic-style defence tower is a slightly disjointed site in the more modern part of the city, and it is this very contrast that really draws people to it. It is the first dark room in Navarra, which Aristotle described as, ‘[a place where] light passes through a small hole cut in a dark room that is closed on all sides. On the wall opposite the hole you will see the image of what is [in front].’ What a man.

SAGRADO CORAZON DE JESÚS – A really enjoyable walk which lends to impressive views of the town, River Ebro, and the distant blue-tinged mountains. When you arrive at the top of the hill and can finally stare the statue in the face, he’s almost exactly like a smaller, less dramatic Christ the Redeemer.

LOCAL ARTWORK – Tudela, whilst quite small, is surprisingly artistic, with endless installations dotted across the town. Some of my current favourites are the Blue Woman mural on the back of a residential house, a wall thickly decorated with hundreds of security cameras, and a gigantic painting of a pigeon. 

CHURCHES – There are so many beautiful Roman churches and cathedrals in the area, all of which you are able to wander past in the Old Town  to take in the intricate exteriors. Two of the most impressive are the Iglesia de Santa María Magdalena and the Catedral de Tudela, but there are many others which might just steal your heart. 

PAMPLONA – RECOMMENDED STAY: 2 DAYS

Pamplona is probably best known for its San Fermín Festival, in which the infamous Running of the Bulls takes place. This festival was popularised in Ernest Hemingway’s novel The Sun Also Rises in 1926, and since then, thousands of people regularly come to the city each year to witness these events.

The city of Pamplona was founded in 75BC by Pompey, Julius Caesar’s favourite rival. The city was originally called Pompeiopolis or Pompaelo, and was used as a military settlement against the revolt against Rome. It’s a beautiful, historic city, and one that you absolutely cannot miss on your trip. 

IRUÑA CHURROS – A famous Ernest Hemingway hangout spot, this iconic cafe also sells the most divine, warm, crispy churros, with a front-row seat to the beautiful buildings dotted around the plaza. It is said that Hemingway loved the city much more than the city loved him, and when he returned to Pamplona after the publishing of his book, he was disappointed in how much it had all changed. He actually ended up committing suicide to coincide with the period of the San Fermín Festival – the one event which he had said was the perfect example of bravery and death. Coincidence? I think not.

ENCIERRO MONUMENT – A large statue depicting the Running of the Bulls, this iconic monument is definitely one that you need to see. The San Fermín Festival can be very controversial, and this monument shows both the best and the worst aspects of it in all its gory glory.

PAMPLONA CATHEDRAL – A beautiful cathedral which has replaced three previous churches that stood there before. This 15th century example of classical gothic architecture is where medieval Navarra kings were crowned and buried, and is a pretty cool place to visit – especially as it’s dead in the centre of the city (pun intended).

CITADEL OF PAMPLONA – Easily my favourite place in the whole of the city, this beautiful fortress is often considered to be the best in Spain. Built in the 16th century, the citadel is a perfect example of military architecture from the Spanish renaissance period, and as such, it is absolutely massive. Some of my favourite parts of the area include the Puerta del Socorro, the nearby Jardines de la Taconera, the gigantic nameless area that houses peacocks and turkeys and chickens and geese, and the Parque de la Vuelto del Castillo which was dotted with deer when we wandered past. Plus, the moat area with the crayfish and the tadpoles is also pretty sick.

VALOR CHOCOLATE – I kind of feel as though you can’t really say that you’ve been to northern Spain unless you’ve visited Valor Chocolate and tried one of their creamy hot chocolates or tasted a massive almendras chocolate bar. It’s such a staple of Navarra snackage, and is probably my favourite Spanish brand ever.

ELKAR BOOKSTORE – Because would this really be a Wandering Everywhere city guide without the bookstore recommendation? Whilst this is a bookshop brand that you can find in several spots across Spain, I’ve found that my favourite location has to be here, in Pamplona. Not only is it a pretty decent size, but they have some of the best Spanish titles out there that I could use to further my limited knowledge of the language – such as the much-loved Mortina.

LA COLMERIA BEE STORE – I can quite comfortably say that I have never been to a store dedicated wholly to the life and production of bee products, but let me tell you, I was not at all disappointed. La Colmeria is filled with beautiful propolis balms and wax candles and delicious honeys of all kinds, and the walls are dotted with stunning, in-depth posters and papers about bees. In the corner is a little lounge area with dozens of books about bees tucked away, and the owner is one of the nicest guys ever. All in all, it’s a pretty wonderful experience, and is definitely one of those places that you need to check out during your stay.

ESPECIALITE – For tea enthusiasts and the not-so-plussed alike, this tea shop is absolutely one of the top places to visit in the city. Not only do they sell approximately five billion combinations of tea, but they also sell the most beautiful teaware I have ever set my eyes upon. 

ICONIC BUILDINGS – Some of my favourite sites to have a gander around in the area include the Church of San Lorenzo, the Palacio de Navarra, the Plaza de Castillo, the Catedral de Santa María and the Arga River. The old town is thoroughly concentrated with beautiful antiquated buildings, and the more modern area of Ensanche arguably has the best cafes.

SAN SEBASTIÁN – RECOMMENDED STAY: 3 DAYS

San Sebastián is my favourite place for cafes, as they have so much choice. From divine-smelling panaderias to cute little ice-cream shops tucked alongside the river, there really is a whole abundance of wonderful places to stop at.

Capital of the Gipuzkoa province in Spain, San Sebastián (also known as Donostia) is a former fishing village, which became a popular spot for Spanish royalty in the 1800s. The cosmopolitan, high-class vibe continues to this day in its snazzy boutiques and quality restaurants, with the rustic still flourishing in the Parte Vieja. This mix of old and new, antique and metro, blended together to create one of my favourite Spanish cities ever.

PUNTO SAL – SUCH a cute place to go for a late lunch. Not only is their food delicious (especially their warm, crunchy bread), but the building itself is also pretty cool. With windows overlooking silvery rocks, it feels so much more private and personal. The staff is super lovely and helped me figure out which food I can and cannot eat due to my extensive list of food intolerances, and when we left, they gave us the cutest little paper origami crane. This is also where I tried the one and only Mucho Kombucha for the first time.

MUCHO KOMBUCHA – Locally made in Basque country, this delicious kombucha is very high in probiotics, amino acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, and completely rejuvenated me after a long few days of walking. It comes in four flavours but so far I have only tried two, with my favourite being the apple and ginger. I simply CANNOT recommend it enough.

ARGITAN CAFE – This cafe serves beautiful red tea that tastes almost exactly like pu’erh, and is located right by the river. It’s a great place to stop for a beverage break, as the sunlight falls upon the beautiful buildings around you, and brightens the river water to a pale emerald.

PAPPERINO IL GELATO – Not only is their ice-cream absolutely divine, but they also specialise in dairy free options – the first city we found in the north to actually cater to people like yours truly who cannot digest lactose and yet love ice-cream. I tried one of their dark chocolate cones and it was so deliciously smooth and creamy – and wonderfully lactose free.  It’s located real close to the beach, too, which makes it perfect to grab a cone and go for an afternoon stroll.

LA CONCHA AND ZURRIOLA BEACH – Arguably the two best beaches in San Sebastián. With sand that adheres to your body for months, translucent (if a little chilly) water, and views of the tall Jesus monument overlooking the city, these two stretches of sand are some of the main reasons why people visit the city. La Concha and Zurriola are both beautiful places to watch the sunset, as the grand buildings overlooking the beach turn a golden-pink and the locals all flock to the nearby gelaterias. If you get the chance to visit and the weather conditions aren’t ideal, make sure you bring some sailing wetsuits as these will keep you warm in the water and you can use them on any boat trips if you are planning on doing any. 

BAR AMAZONAS – Probably my favourite cafe location ever. Situated between my favourite bookstore (see below), a magnificent fountain surrounded by bright red and purple flowers, and tall golden art nouveau houses, I cannot think of a better place to run a bar. They serve the most delicious cold drinks, and it really is an ideal place to stop for a cheeky bevvy.

LIBRERÍA DONOSTI – The first place that I ever read an Anthony Bourdain book (!!!). The librería has low ceilings and is very cosy, and is absolutely stuffed full of beautiful books. They have a comprehensive collection of books in both English and Spanish, featuring everything from travel books to cookbooks to fantasy books to history books on influential Victorian women. It is definitely a good store to check out – and who knows, maybe you’ll discover a famous food and travel writer for the first time, too.

MY TEA – Probably my favourite tea shop in San Sebastián, My Tea has literally everything that a tea lover could ask for. From bombillas to matcha whisks to metal tea pots, to 119 different combinations of tea available to try, it’s a super cool place to have a little look around.

PARQUE DE CHRISTINA ENEA – A beautiful park with gorgeous green walks dotted with old ruins, it’s a great place to get away from the aforementioned La Concha crowds. The park is also known as ‘Gladys’, after a local neighbourhood ecologist called Gladys del Estal who was killed by the police during an anti-nuclear demonstration in Tudela, and San Sebastián saw it fitting to dedicate the space to her memory.

ENDLESS SIGHTS – Some of my other favourite things to see are the baby pink Maria Christina bridge, the imposing Good Shepherd of San Sebastián cathedral, the marble-esque San Sebastián City Hall, and, of course, the River Urumea.

BILBAO – RECOMMENDED STAY: 4 DAYS

Where do I even begin with talking about Bilbao? The capital of Basque country, with unmatched culture, art, natural beauty, and architectural buildings, it’s one of my favourite cities in Spain. Enigmatic and dynamic – and more than a little rough and tumble – this industrial city is constantly changing. It’s a multi-cultural urban centre, with people from all over the world emigrating here and adding their own new elements to the area.

The city underwent a population boom after the Guggenheim Museum was built, which helped to bring both people and recognition to the area. The idea of cultural investments leading to an economic uplift has since been copied worldwide, being called ‘the Bilbao effect.’ And oh boy, did it work.

The many different areas of the city all have completely different vibes and energies to them – such as the metropolitan Gran Vía, the slow and laid back Casco Vieja, the young and booming Doña Casilda, the intimidating San Francisco neighbourhood with its Red Light District and human trafficking. To really get a feel of Bilbao as a whole, you need to spend a decent amount of time really exploring each one, as they really are just all so different. Some of my per top places that you simply cannot miss on visiting out on are:

CASCO VIEJA – The old town, jam-packed with beautiful thin buildings, gorgeous antique shops, and the most adorable bookstores (such as Librería Libu) I have ever seen in my life. Some of the best cafes in the city are here, and I can’t imagine a better place to try pintxos than in the very heart of Bilbao. One of my favourite things in the area is the sheltered walkway which houses beautifully detailed painted ceilings, where you look up to find the most unexpected, intricate, heartfelt scenes. All of them gallery-worthy, stumbling upon these is bound to be a highlight.

TXAPELA TABERNA – For a city famous for its Pintxos, it’s no surprise that one of the top things to do in Bilbao is to simply gorge yourself silly on delicious food. One of my favourite places to do this is at the Txapela Taberna. Try their mouthwatering montaditos, their crispy calamares, their range of jamón, and explore the stone walls of this beautiful little building. Located right in the centre of the old town, it’s a cracking place to stop and fill your boots before heading off to explore.

LITTLE BEANS CAFE – The nicest little cafe which has many vegan and dairy-free options. After trying many local places to see whether or not I could consume any of their products (such as Yogurissimo, where I was promised by the staff that their mango and pineapple ice-cream was lactose free, just to buy a bowl and immediately become sick), I finally found this place. Whilst they serve lovely hot and cold beverages, their best products are easily the baked goods. Their brownies are so thick and dark and rich, I’m back to craving one whilst I write this. Plus, the staff are super nice, and were mega kind to me even when I messed up the order and ordered full dairy hot coco instead of rice milk.

MATCHA ESPRESSO – The name of the cafe is a little misleading, I will be honest with you. Having expected to rock up to some delicious matcha, I was a teensy bit disappointed to find that they actually serve zero of that ceremonial green powder. Saying that though, they serve one helluva collection of loose leaf teas, and they all smell absolutely gorgeous. The white tea is my favourite (and the staff humoured me as I went back to get the hot water refilled so I could try its second brewing), and my travel partner can attest to their espresso (the only half of their name title that they actually serve) being pretty good. Also, it’s located just off from the best park in the city, which I think is pretty convenient.

DOÑA CASILDA ITURRIZAR PARK  – The aforementioned best park in the city. It’s big, it’s vibrant, it has a large pond in the middle where seemingly every species of duck to ever exist goes for a paddle, and the quiet shaded areas feel all kinds of personal. It’s pretty close to the largest metropolitan area of the city, which makes it a nice retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city life.

BOHEMIAN LANE – Not to be extra but this was probably my favourite cafe in the WHOLE of northern Spain, no exaggeration. Due to the slight inconvenience of me not being able to consume lactose, finding hot cocos when I travel is extremely difficult. So I was pretty chuffed to happen upon this vegan cafe that makes the thickest, richest, and creamiest chocolate drinks with rice, oat, and soy milk, available in a full range of flavours. Not only are their hot chocolates delicious, but they also have a wide collection of teas – with a whole section of the board being dedicated to specialty teas under the names of famous jazz and soul singers such as Etta James, Nina Simone, Otis Redding, and Dusty Springfield. Plus, their baked goods are divine. What’s not to love?

GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM – The open hours of this classic museum are a little touch-and-go due to the current coronavirus pandemic, which makes travelling there a little difficult. However, if you find yourself on a Sunday when everything is closed, you can still roam the ground and visit the gigantic puppy made out of flowers (sculptured by THE Jeff Koons), or the large stack of silver balls known as the ‘Tall Tree & the Eye’ by Anish Kapoor.

There are hundreds upon hundreds of cool things to see in Bilbao, but I found that the best things we saw we had happened upon by chance. Some of these include the Puente Zubizuri, a soaring bridge designed by Santiago Calatrava overlooking the Nervión river, the Mercado de la Ribera, the Church of Saint Anthony the Great, Plaza Nueva, and the Cathedral de Santiago. 

LEÓN – RECOMMENDED STAY: 3 DAYS

The train ride out of the city sees the moodiest, snow-topped mountains, and it is such a contrast from the previous cityscapes. Pass through little towns like Ameyugo and Burgos, Carrión and Saldaña and Sahagún, and fall in love with the rustic Basque countryside.

As we travelled slowly through the north of Spain, each new Spanish city quickly became my favourite. For a while, San Sebastián was the number one contender, but the grittiness and real-ness of Bilbao overtook my favourite. But then our short time in León completely beat everywhere else for me – it had many aspects of my favourite bits from the other cities. It had the local vibes of Arguedas, the incredible architecture of Zaragoza, the personality of Bilbao, the cleanliness of San Sebastián, and the gorgeous bakeries of Pamplona. If I had to stay in one of cities for a prolonged amount of time, there is no doubt in my head that it would be Leòn. And here’s why.

León is dotted with Roman ruins, high-class stores, quaint cafes, and the most imposing religious buildings I have ever seen. It’s a city that seems to have everything, and it seems to only get bigger the more you learn about it. The capital of the Province of León, the city was founded around 29BC as a military encampment, and the Romans used it as a key city to transport gold to Rome. In 1188, the first Parliament in European was hosted here, making it a very influential city, and its ties to the Camino de Santiago only intensifies its religious roots. The city has survived many wars and religious takeovers, and its culture is blended from many different Roman, Mozarab, and Catholic influences.

HOLY COW – Because of course I’m going to start off this guide with ice-cream! Probably the best place to grab something sweet that actually has options for those who are lactose-free, their flavours are diverse and delicious. The staff is super lovely, and the fact that this is located right by some of the cutest bookstores in León is also a massive plus.

CATEDRAL DE LEÓN – One of the most relevant examples of classic Gothic architecture in Spain. Also nicknamed the ‘House of Light,’ this cathedral opened in 1205 and has been flourishing ever since. Initially built on the site of previous Roman baths, the cathedral was later turned into a palace by King Ordoño II. Now, the building is best known for its stained glass windows, which are considered to be some of the best preserved in Europe.

CONVENTO DE SAN MARCOS – One of the most important monuments of the Renaissance in Spain, this convent opened in 1716 to train young women to become nuns. It now operates as a very fancy hotel, but a small church and museum area are still open within it.

CAFETERÍA PEREGRINO – Arguably the best cafe in the city with its incredible view of the convent and its very affordable prices and complimentary biscuits. It’s the perfect place to stop and really take in the city.

CASA BOTINES – Designed by the one and only Antoni Gaudí, this is a beautiful example of Gothic revival architecture outside of Barcelona. This was one of the most unexpected and beautiful things that we stumbled upon in the city, and is definitely one of those places that you wish you could base your own house design on.

PLAZA MAYOR – León is home to some of the most delicious food – think rabas de calamares, paella marisco, and artisan breads – and it’s so easy to find a good place to sit down and eat in the plaza. The atmosphere becomes electric when the sun goes down, and it is the best place in the city to really soak up local life.

WALLS OF LEÓN – Quite possibly one of the oldest walls in Spain, this fortification was built to protect the Old Town in Roman Times. There’s actually not a whole lot of information available on these walls, except for the fact that they were almost certainly used for defence – but they’re one helluva sight and definitely something worth going out of your way to visit.

LUGO – RECOMMENDED STAY: 3 DAYS

Because it couldn’t possibly be a guide to northern Spain without featuring Galicia! For this post I’d only like to mention one city, due to the fact that I’m currently working on a road trip guide around the region and don’t want to drop too many spoilers.

Lugo is a beautiful Roman city founded originally by the Celts, and is the only city in the world to be surrounded by completely intact Roman walls. When it was conquered by Paullus Fabius Maximus in 13 BC it was renamed Lucus Augusti and was the chief town of the tribe of the Capori, an ancient Gallaecian peoples. The city has passed through so many hands and so many eras, I feel as though you could spend a year there and still not even scratch the surface of its long and complex history.

MURALLA ROMANA DE LUGO – The old Roman walls of Lugo are probably the top thing that people travel to the city to see, and with good reason. Constructed in the third century, these walls are listed under UNESCO’s World Heritage List as ‘the finest example of late Roman fortifications in western Europe.’ During the Middle Ages, pilgrims would pass through the gates of the Lugo walls in order to visit Santiago de Compostela, and now you can walk across the entire length of the walls. It’s super cool, and probably my favourite thing in the city.

There are ten gates in the walls, five of which were built during the Roman era. The two best preserved gates are the Porta Miña and the Porta Falsa – with the latter happening to be my favourite, as it still has its original vaulted arch. The rest of the gates are beautiful, with other popular ones being the Porta Nova, the Porta de Santiago, and the Porta de San Fernando.

PRAZA DE SANTA MARÍA – Probably my favourite area in Lugo, as it is a massive square filled with gorgeous cream-coloured gothic buildings erected in the Romanesque and Baroque style. In the dead centre of it all is the empowering Catedral de Santa María, built in the early 12th century on the top of an even older church from 722AD. The bell tower and the buttresses are some of the most imposing elements of the building, and the old Roman bridge which leads to the Murella opposite offers probably the best view of it all. All in all, it is absolutely one of the best things to visit in the area.

Also in the area is the Piscina Romana, an old Roman bath which is visible through a glass panel in the floor. The piscina had been uncovered only in 1960, and has been persevered very well since, with the mosaics in the remains still being very visible. It’s pretty cool to see.

SAN ROQUE ARCHEOLOGY CENTRE – Having travelled across northern Spain and been unable to visit a single archeological museum due to the coronavirus, I was pleasantly surprised to stumble upon this little gem. It’s quite little but it is free entry and the staff are super helpful and friendly – and it was SUCH an interesting place. It houses the remains of a large pond with two gargoyles still looking out from it centuries later, a ceramic kiln for manufacturing building materials, and preserved tombs. The evolution of the Roman town from its beginnings up to the end of the 5th century is evident in the finds, and it really is a cool place to visit.

CANELA BAKERY COFFEE – Located in the Praza Maior, this is the ideal place to stop for a quick drink whilst taking in the park and bustling shops around you. Their prices are probably the best in the city, as seven euros can get you a smoothie, delicious tea, bacon, eggs, and pancakes that taste like doughnut mix. What more could you want?

Northern Spain is easily one of my favourite places in the world, as there is just so much to see and do and fall in love with. I could have probably stayed for years, spending weeks on end in each individual place – but for a month’s itinerary, this is what I would recommend.

And as such, that concludes your 26-day road trip itinerary to northern Spain! Let me know in the comments below how the road trip goes!

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THE FISHERMAN’S BASTION, BUDAPEST

There’s only two things that I really want when I’m drinking hot coco – one, for the chocolate to be bordering heavenly, and two, for it to come with an absolute stunner of a view. The Fisherman’s Bastion in Hungary is definite champion for both of these categories, with views overlooking the famed Danube River, little townhouses, antiquated Hungarian ruins, and whole array of bastion turrets just a few feet away. It genuinely feels like you’ve just stepped into a magical fairytale castle, where the hot cocoa is thick, decorated with cream, and inordinately sweet. Prefer coffee over cocoa? Bones Coffee Company’s premium coffee pods offer an alternative for home brewing, featuring a range of flavored options, including seasonal and dessert-style varieties.

ANTICA DOMUS, ROME

Like with the Fisherman’s Bastion, Antica Domus hosts both incredible hot coco and an incredible view. This one, however, is definitely more well-known – it’s located only 20 feet from the Colosseum! It’s the absolute best place to see the ancient amphitheater, staying for a couple hours chatting to locals as the sun goes down and the tourists disappear. Also, the typical Italian mugs of melted chocolate are even more adjunct at Antica Domus, where you can really lose yourself in the thickly poured, rich coco, contemplating the beautiful city around you.

THE GRAPE AND OLIVE, SWANSEA

Situated in a gorgeous little city which will forever hold my heart, I would happily refer to the Grape and Olive as housing some of the best hot cocos in the whole entire world. A restaurant housed in the tallest building of the city, you’re really offered some insane views in a tower completely bereft of tourists. Overlooking the ocean, the marina, the town, and distant hills, I wouldn’t blame you for staying for a full lunch, dinner, and finishing with some hand-shaken cocktails. The hot coco is sweet and light, and perfect for that lil’ sugar rush needed for exploring the furthest depths of the city.

GLACIAR, BARCELONA

In another one of my favourite cities, I came across one of the best hot cocos I’ve ever been blessed with the privilege to try. The City of Gaudi is unsurprisingly going to be utterly stunning, but coupled with cinnamon and caramel churros with the cocoa, it instantly becomes a little sweeter. Glaciar is located just off the tiny square of Plaça Reial, which houses violin-playing wanderers and men offering to sell a rose to your sweetheart, offering you the heart of the city whilst you sip your coco. It’s the cutest little location, and the hot coco tastes just like thick churro dip – sweet and luxurious and bound to linger on your upper lip for an unprecedented amount of time.

RIVA, TROGIR

I wandered the streets of Croatia for what felt like years, trying to find a decent place that offered lactose-free hot chocolate. When I landed in the country, my Crohn’s was playing up a fair bit – meaning that I had to cancel out a lot of food groups. I was literally devastated when I found that absolutely nowhere could serve me hot coco I could actually consume – until I went to Riva. Located in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Trogir, overlooking a quaint harbour bordering beautiful ruins, you can just sit for hours and watch the world go by. The hot coco is dark and syrupy, and the fact that they went completely out of their way to figure out how to make it lactose-free was really lovely.

VIA CAFFE, KRAKOW

When you’re stuck in the middle of a snow storm, fingers numb, eyeballs turning to frost, the thing that you want most in the world is to be somewhere warm, sipping something steaming, and soon. This scenario is more or less what happened when I visited Krakow and found myself freezing my absolute butt off, bundling into the warmest cafe I could find, and stumbling upon this indulgent hot chocolate. Not only did they do soya hot coco (yesss!), but they also served the most divine cakes to go with it. It took me hours to muster up the strength to leave the confines of the cafe and venture back out in the cold – and I could only do that after one more coco.

And so, that concludes my findings for now. I have explored more of Europe than any other continent, and tried a lot of hot coco – and these are undoubtably the best.

It’s absolutely a matter of life and death – or merely just pure insanity – that I must find the best hot coco in Europe. Let me know in the comments below where you guys have scouted out the best hot coco – this may be my most important assignment yet.*

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*I just really want to lose myself in coco.

After spending hours trying to research gorgeous little Spanish bakeries where I could actually order consumable food (surprisingly more difficult than I thought) to no avail, I eventually decided to simply venture out on a little mission to discover said bakeries. It was a long and hard journey filled with churros and cupcakes, but I’m more than willing to suffer by eating gorgeous food 24/7 for research. No need to thank me.

Heladería Borgonesse

Best for… choice

Starting off this post with a bang, Borgonesse is hands down the best place to get ice-cream in the whole of Madrid. Offering flavours you you will glimpse only a couple times in your life, this heladería is set on the gorgeous Gran Vía street – making it the perfect location to grab a delicious cone before heading out to explore the heart of Madrid. Along with ice-creams, they also serve a plethora of crêpes, waffles, frappes, smoothies, cakes, sweets, and nougats. If you’ve ever wanted to use the phrase “I’m like a kid in a candy shop,” then you can defo knock that off your bucket list here.

maestro churrero

Best for… churros!

Unexpectedly, this one brags the best churros in the whole of Madrid. Thankfully for gluttons with malfunctioning immune systems like yours truly, they offer gluten-free churros with thick, lactose-free chocolate. There’s nothing that screams Madrid quite like sitting outside in the sun, churros and chocolate in hand, looking out to the busy plaza streets, leaning back accessorised with Jackie O-esque sunglasses and long flowery skirts. 

celicioso

Best for… first dates

Celicioso has multiple locations, with my absolute favourite being the one located on Calle de Hortaleza. Whilst the other shops are equally as beautiful, I found this one location to be the cosiest, prettiest, and filled with the nicest staff. Their rich triple chocolate cake is absolutely divine, and the open-plan design and pretty decor makes it a super lovely place to hang out. With laid-back vibes, cute surroundings, and cake, this place would be absolutely perfect for a first date (let me know how it goes!).

freedom cakes

Best for… aesthetics

Absolutely everything at Freedom Cakes is vegan, which is great when you have a whole plethora of intolerances to cater to. I found myself in shock after trying several of their desserts to find that everything was dairy-free, given how insanely chocolatey and gooey their homemade brownies are. Their ice-cream is thick and creamy (although, I guess technically, more soya-y?), and their ridiculously healthy smoothies are presented in pretty little cactus glasses. I’m not one to drink blended kale – and yet, at Freedom Cakes, I found myself absolutely chugging the whole glass. 

azotea del círculo

Best for… smoothies

An unconventional place to call a cafe, sure, but the fact that they offer some absolutely stunning dairy- and gluten-free beverages should definitely mean that it should be included in this post. I absolutely adore their smoothies, and the fact that you choose the fruit flavours that you want and then some kind lass proceeds to blend it right in front of you merely adds to the appeal. They’re so full of flavour that they make your cheek tingle, and due to the fact that they’re basically granizados, they’re über light and refreshing. 

turrones vicens

Best for… turron

Officially the best place (and, dare I say, only place) in Madrid that freely gives out complimentary turron (especially if you continuously return in an abundance of disguises to continue snacking on tasters*), Turrones Vicens is officially one of my favourite places in the city. The bakers are super creative with their flavours, and the styles, flavours, and textures on offer are unlike any other turron I’ve ever tasted. Pop by for a look around, and then tell me that you haven’t ended up purchasing eight different bags of these sweet treats.

rodilla

Best for… local vibes

No post about cafes in Madrid would be complete without a mention to Rodilla. Founded in 1938, this cute little place has grown to be one of the best-loved places in Spain for decades. Whilst not advertised as being lactose-free, they offer many an option for absolute pains-in-the-ass like myself, and so I would gorge myself almost on a weekly basis on their matcha green teas and tubs of sorbets. Unsurprisingly, they have multiple locations, but the best – and only one I am going to mention – is the on on Calle Gran Vía. You’re welcome.

las cuevas de luis candelas

Best for… history

Whilst I do adore their sorbets here, the main reason I am including it in this post is for the fact that it is so thick with history that you can practically feel Candelas’ ghost arms around your shoulders. Luis Candelas was born in the early 1800s and grew up to be an infamous bandit known for his turquoise blue jacket, Mahón trousers and Corinth belt. He was infamous for assaulting stagecoaches and stealing goods, and wold hide out in where Las Cuevas is today, using the many available exits to confuse his persecutors and get away scot-free. There are so many more super cool stories about this legendary lad, which you can read all about when you visit this epic little place. 

alcampo

Best for… Bizcocho

Whilst technically not a “cafe” per se, they do offer a whole lot of baked goods. “Bizcocho de magdalena” literally translates to cupcake cake – and there’s nothing I love more than giant versions of little guilty snacks. I’d actually never tried one before moving to Madrid, but as it happens, I found myself eating probably a whole bizcocho per week – and don’t tell my host family, but even their homemade bizcocho doesn’t rival the gorgeous cake at Alcampo.

abanda

Best for… hot coco

Abanda is officially the cutest place to grab a hot coco and sit outside, as their shop is located just off of a large plaza. Technically, their lactose-free hot chocolate isn’t on the menu – until you ask for it specifically. The staff are the friendliest ever, and being surrounded by the liveliness and bustle of Madrid condensed to a little square merely adds to the appeal. 

heladeria tutti frutti

Best for… buckets of ice-cream

Okay so, to be completely and entirely honest with you, I looove this heladeriá for one reason and one reason only – the fact that you can literally buy their ice-cream in buckets. I am quite possibly the greediest person alive, but nothing has appealed to me more than taking a whole bucket of ice-cream to a park and subsequently demolishing the whole thing. Not only do they have gorgeous helado flavours, but to spike your blood pressure even more, they also sell the sweetest and most refreshing granizados ever. Let me tell you, it is one heck of a dangerous place to venture into with a full wallet. 

Ay mi madre

Best for… carrot cake

This little place has a whole menu dedicated to the vegan diet, offering a wide range of dairy-free pizzas, empanadas, and sandwiches. The best bit, however, is of course the carrot cake, which is light, sweet, and somewhat healthy (because that’s how vegetable-infused cakes work, right?).

And so, do you guys have any suggestions? Let me know in the comments below – and be sure to check out my other guide on the best bookstores in Madrid!

*That’s a joke, people! Don’t do that**

** (Or do it for the meme and send me pics)

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librería perez galdos

I’m going to start off the list strong with Librería Perez Galdos – quite possibly one of my favourite spaces in the whole city. Like any good bookstore should be, it features old novels and vintage National Geographics haphazardly stacked to the ceiling, and it honestly feels like an Ollivander’s but for, well, books. The owner is incredibly lovely, and helped me with my Spanish when I refused to indulge my first language. It’s pretty much how I want my future house library to be, as it all comes together to feel like a slightly enchanted space – like the sort you’d read about in a book (gingerbread and witches ensued). It’s honestly just pure perfection, and I adore it.

desperate literature

Desperate Literature looks entirely out of place on the street of which it is situated. Amongst high-class fashion boutiques and name brand labels, you’ll stumble upon what is essentially just this little cave of books. There are wooden signs dotted around the space with bookish quotes painted upon them, and handwritten notes are placed in front of books the staff suggest. You could easily whittle away the days sat back on a chair, listening to the indie music on the speakers, either indulging yourself with a gorgeous novel or tapping away at their typewriter. It’s all lit by some dilapidated lamps, and amongst the cul-de-sac of novels it’s way too easy to lose yourself.

librería san ginés

This place was unlike anything I’d ever seen before – a tiny shed attached to an old church, featuring what was pretty much just a large pasting table stacked with books. The whole thing is apparently nearly 400 years old, and honestly when you see it you won’t doubt it. The stalls spill out onto the street, winding along the church wall, with old postcards decorating the decks. A mixture of rock and roll and jazz music plays, and each time I visited the man running it would be leaning against a chair or a wall, mumbling along as a fat cigar dangled from his lips. It’s a bit of a discombobulating time warp, but I can guarantee you’ll love the whole thing.

librería mujeres

Apparently, in 1978 rights for women were few and far between in this contemporary capital. There were massive problems with free speech, divorce, and abortion rights, and on the whole it was just an absolute mess. That’s where the founders of this gorgeous little bookstore came in – they started up this bookstore to fill it with empowering female literature, bunting, an abundance of clocks, and old lamps. The decorations and style of the store represent the era flawlessly, and the whole place is just gorgeous, empowering, and honestly a little overwhelming. Good luck trying to hold back a reaction as you walk in.

librería desnivel

Librería Desnivel definitely tripped me out. It’s absolutely tiny from the outside, but when you walk in through the stained glass doors (with ice picks as the handles no less), it opens up to this massive maze of books. The floorboards creak as you wander the halls, and the endless rows of books dictate foreign lands and guides on mountaineering and exploring. I didn’t realise that a bookstore could be so perfect, but as I walked through it I quickly realised that it’s a real Travellers’ haven. The walls are even signed with quotes from famous explorers! There’s campfire music playing in the background, and everywhere you look is dowsed in maps and autobiographies by beloved adventurers. It’s the most inspiring bookstore I’ve ever visited, and I can’t deny that I now own a ridiculous amount of Levison Wood novels (I even interviewed him!).

the cómic co

Located in quite possibly the prettiest neighbourhood in the whole of Madrid (It’s Malasaña, before you ask), the cómic co is the most visually contemporary out of all these stores. Each wall is either pristine white plaster or exposed orange brick, with books layered across the front of them. They sell quirky (and sometimes eccentric) illustrated books and comics, resulting in me spending a ridiculous amount of time just pawing at the pages as the temptation of using up all my wages right there was exceedingly strong. The staff are always really lovely, and it seems that they all live for the casual banter in the store. It’s like the Spanish twin to the classic science fiction store Forbidden Planet, although less musty.

Honourable mentions:

Arrebato Libros – An adorable store featuring antique novels and yellowbacks – some of which still containing cute little notes from their owners back in the 1800s. A gorgeous mess of a place, it’s strangely enticing.

Pasajes Librería – Featuring a real abundance of books in a relatively small space, you could spend hours upon hours rummaging through their products. One of the best things is that they offer a wide selection of multi-lingual books, something of which a large majority of Madrid bookstores actually lack.

Librería Letras – So many of these books are on sale, it really did not help my attempts at budgeting. The owner is exceedingly helpful when you’re as indecisive as I am, and some of the books are quite noir and super interesting. The majority of books I bought from my trip were purchased from here – so if you have a weight limit for your suitcase, you may want to be careful.

El Olor de la Lluvia – Translated to “the smell of rain,” this place is quaint and cute and I love it. It features a little reading nook and rows upon rows of self-help books, rendering it the perfect place to take time out and fix yourself.

Madrid is quite possibly the most vibrant, exuberant place I’ve ever had the pleasure of living, and I already miss traipsing daily around the bookstores. I met some deeply lovely people between the towers of books, and I think that if you were to search for the very heart of the capital, you would find yourself in one of these librerías. These cosy little nooks really capture the whole essence of Madrid life – something we call “comodidad.” If you want to feel like you’ve finally come home, you’ve got to fall in love with the hidden bookstores of Madrid. As a warning though: when you leave, the estrangement will break your heart.

Have you guys been to any of these bookstores, or have any recommendations for stores I should check out? If so, let me know in the comments below!

BUT BEFORE YOU DO, WHY NOT SHARE THE LOVE AND PIN THIS POST?

Accommodation – £0

To start off with, all of my accommodation was paid for by other people – for various reasons. When I first landed in Alicante, I was able to stay with my ex-boyfriend (funnily enough, not an ex at the time) in a gorgeous little house by La Marina. This meant that I was basically adopted by the family, and didn’t have to pay a single penny for keep. Pretty convenient, honestly.

From there, I met up with a family that were complete strangers at the time, but that I would grow to consider my own. As an au-pair, I was taken across Valencia all the way to Madrid, staying in cute little hotels with the family and finally settling down in their quaint home in a town called Móstoles. I met several friends along the way, each offering up their homes – resulting in a wonderful little journey around Spain with the base rate of £0. Just the way I like it.

Travel – £257

As expected, flights were the most expensive part of my whole journey – and only because I was an absolute knob and missed my first flight out. In total, I spent a (wildly unnecessary, tbh) £227 on flights.

When I had finally landed in Spain, I found myself spending a mere £30 on transport due to a rather magic metro card I found (called Renfe+) where you pay a set price and can explore more or less the whole of Northern Spain on it for free. Pretty handy. You also get free entry to galleries and rooftop cafes, which is neat.

HITCHHIKING AND USING RANDOM STRANGER’S CARS

I also tried my hand at hitchhiking. Having never done so before, the only factor convincing me to jump into a random stranger’s car was the fact that I was literally multi-tasking heat exhaustion with a severe lack of water and 40+ degrees in the shade, going up a hill which featured absolutely 0 said shade. When a random couple pulled up to me and suggested I get in their car, I was so dazed I just hopped right in. The journey back to the centre of civilisation took so long, and via a strange route I had never taken before, that I found myself nearly nodding off as the woman told me stories from her childhood. Honestly, I’m still not 100% convinced I made it out alive and am not just living in some weirdly lucid coma.

As I spent the majority of my time in Spain living with my aforementioned au-pair host family -with around 10 days also spent with the family of my dear ex-love-of-my-life – I was driven around from town to town, city to city, without a qualm. Honestly, I feel like they were all just pretty happy to have someone nag at them to be more adventurous, and I’m thankful they spent so much gas money on my expeditions.

Food – £35

In concept, all of my food was free (all six meals a day). However, I have a secret love affair with sweet things, and found a good chunk of my money going on snacks. From cakes to churros to ice-cream, I spent day after day meeting new-found friends and checking out all the local bakeries.

I was taken out for meals with my ex-boyfriend’s family, my temporary au-pair family, and then to soirees and birthday dinners with my temporary extended family. And there you have it – three month’s worth of food for what I would typically spend on a week’s shopping. Budget AF.

Excursions – £4

I visited over 50 castles, museums, galleries, and little day trip cities as I ventured around Spain – paying absolutely nothing for all except one. Here’s how.

STUDENT’S/ EU CARD

With a bit of research, I soon discovered that everything was free. Kind of. In order to visit such a sheer amount of awesome little places, I had to do a bunch of research before I rocked up anywhere. Here’s the gist – if you are a member of the EU, a student (or simply someone aged 0 – 26), unemployed (with evidence), or someone that knows the free entry times, you can pass security without dishing out a dollar. It’s all there, if only you look. The only time I had to pay (this is where the £4 comes in) was when I went to a castle during peak times, simply because I CBA to wait around for hours for free entry.

SPONGING OFF MY HOST FAMILY

The aforementioned au-pair family would also take me places, and when they did so, I would find them paying for everything. Whether it was an entry ticket to go wild swimming in the mountains, or a little fee to enter an olde historical building, they would always pay for me (they also bought me a gym membership and other pointless little things). They were so incredible dishing out so much, and all I had to do was watch TV with their kids for a few hours a week on the rare days both parents went to work. A pretty sweet deal, if you ask me.

Extras – £78

Spending £78 on little extras was completely unnecessary and could 100% have been avoided – and yet I couldn’t resist window shopping. I ended up buying exactly seven incoherent Spanish novels, two equally as incoherent Vinyls, and a bunch of tourist souvenirs for family members back home (along with a really fancy, really tiny pot of moisturiser). In all honesty though, I don’t think that’s too bad for three whole months, even if the 6kg bucket of ColaCao nearly sent me to Customs.

Income

Whilst I was away, I also managed to secure a steady stream of income. I’m not sure how applicable it is, but due to the fact that I have been blogging and writing for magazines for years, I was able to do about five hours of actual work to make triple back of what I had spent. I made £550 straight up from au-pairing, £130 for writing articles, and £460 from various other sources – such as product placement, affiliate links, and sponsored posts.

Not to be dramatic, but I 100% felt like a mortal God when I was dishing out advice to my friends and followers about how I managed to travel. I really hope that this helps some of you, or at least answers some rather demanding questions about how I could possibly be living a Snapchat highlife.

Has this post helped or inspired any of you guys to take your own budget tours? Or have you got any tips I could use next time? Let me know in the comments below!

But before you do – why not pin this post?

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WHERE TO EAT

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EL DELFIN

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WHERE TO DRINK

Whilst out for dinner one night, we met a really nice Ukranian woman, who actually works in the travel industry (which is the dream – to travel and get paid for it). She told us some truly heart-wrenching stories about the fright she feels every time someone knocks on her front door, due to the current ongoing war, as she fears there will be an official standing there calling her husband out to fight. It was so interesting talking to her and finding out more about her story, and at the end of the conversation I gave her one of my business cards so that we can stay in touch.

Barcelona is commonly known as the ‘city of art’, and a much more relaxed version of its sister, Madrid. Due to this hazy, creative atmosphere that constantly surrounded us, we visited every museum and gallery and Gaudi building that we could. A lot of the simple architecture reminded me of that in other cities like Cardiff and even some parts of London, with the wooden beams and incredible, underrated detail in the frames, and they all seemed to share a very vintage-esque, grunge aesthetic. This meant that I had three times more photos of bricks and cement that I had meant to. We went into, I think, two cathedrals, with both having that classic look about them that you would expect of a Spanish ‘misa’. The detail in the stained glass windows and roof were absolutely beautiful, a perfect staple of this little city.

As you all know, Spanish is famous for its flamenco, a style of music played with guitars, with dancers twirling and clapping, and, as the classic tourists that my family and I are, we went to watch the local dances one evening. The good thing about the flamenco that we saw was that it wasn’t holidaymaker-orientated, meaning that it was performed as a true portrayal of Spanish culture, not with plastic dresses and over-played Enrique Iglesias songs. The main dancer was a true professional and danced absolutely flawlessly, whilst the band behind her rolled their r’s and hit the high notes against their guitars. I could have watched the show over and over again.