You know what I hate? Wales. London is incredible in regards for the three things it’s good for (auditions, The Hard Rock Cafe, and Instagram photos), so in comparison you can only hate Wales and all the things it has to offer. Imagine, the businessmen don’t look dead inside! People apologise when they run into you! People don’t hate their jobs and livelihoods! If England had more sheep, I might consider it a better contender for #1 place to avoid at all costs, but alas, I am Welsh after all.

IT’S TOO AFFORDABLE

From travel expenses to food to excursions – to even cinema tickets (£12 in Leicester Square, £6 in Swansea) – Wales is insanely cheap in comparison to London (and the majority of England in general). If you’re someone who hasn’t got endless funds to dwindle away, I would suggest staying far away from Wales as you’ll probably be so enticed by how wonderfully affordable everything is that you’ll probably want to stay here forever. Damn Wales, with its nifty tricks and horribly economical living.

THERE’S WAY TOOO MUCH TO DO

Oh really, you saw the Shard, Hyde Park, and Big Ben in one day? Congrats, now you’ve got a week left in London and you’ve seen it all. Alas, if you stayed somewhere like Cardiff, you have literal months filled with things to see. Bored of Cardiff? Try Swansea. Bored of Swansea? Try Bridgend. And on it goes. Honestly, it’s addictive.

I went to the Wales Millennium Centre the other day to watch my new favourite band RSVP Bhangra and went home armed with both new dance knowledge, an admiration for the band’s seemingly never-ending energy levels, and a re-fired love for Wales’ capital.

THE LOCALS ARE WAY TOO NICE

One of the biggest social differences between Wales and England is the attitude of people when you pass them in the street. A bunch of times I’ve smiled at people I’ve walked past in London, because when it’s a thin street and you’re directed right at each other it’d be more awkward not to, which my English friends always find crazy. In return I tend to either get glared at or blanked completely, which is entirely different to when you’re in Swansea and people grin, ask how you are, and comment on your new hairdo. I came down to Swansea a few days ago, and am already stunned at how people apologise when they walk a foot too close to you – in London it takes a full-body tackle to get anything.

In general, Welsh people are a lot friendlier to strangers (unless you accidentally call them English, in which case prepare to get shanked), and to be completely frank with you, it’s something you can only hate. I went out to buy some onion chutney, and was caught completely off-guard when the server was genuinely interested in my life and how my day was going. Like please, I just want to buy some chutney and not feel like my life is as intriguing and inspiring as you are making it out to be. They can only aspire to be as blasé as the English, really. And hello, are you flirting with me, or are you just Welsh?

AND TOO HAPPY

In Wales we drink mountain water from our faucets (prepare to lose weight with the whole expelling-everything-you-eat-almost-immediately thing), name our places stupid things like Cwmrhydyceirw and Llangyfelach, and have access to a curious timezone called “now-in-a-minute” (too niche?) – and this all adds together to somehow create the happiest people ever. It’s almost like the quality of life goes up the further away you are from the centre of London and all the grey skinned briefcase-clad people. People spend a lot more quality time with their families on days out around endless mountains, coastlines, and treks up Snowdonia, and are more motivated to leave the house and admire the richness and beauty that Wales holds. The Welsh have everything you could ask for, so prepare to feel like your own life is miserable in comparison.

WELSH CAKES

Move out of the way, scones and eton mess, because here comes the much loved and much devoured Welsh speciality – Welsh cake. ‘What’s a Welsh cake?’, I hear you ask? Heaven. Welsh cakes are heaven. Nothing more than sugar, sultanas, and magic, these little beauties beat everything in England. The Lake District? The cute little London accents? The London Dungeons? Welsh cakes beat every possible thing England has to offer, all in a bite. So please, stay far away from Wales so that there’s more for us. Thanks.

West Wales (specifically Gwynedd, Snowdonia, and Ceredigion) is a truly wonderful slice of the UK’s best country, but surprisingly, there aren’t that many travel guides written about the area. Fortunately for you, however, the ultimate guide to West Wales is here, and I’m ready to guide you through it, one town at a time.

Enjoy!

A brief history of Wales

Wales is a truly beautiful country, known for its mountains, deep valleys, extensive woods, and fragmented rivers, and with a natural history spanning back millions of years. 

The country was one of the most prominent political and cultural centres of Celtic Europe, making Welsh culture vastly different from whatever England is supposed to have. Back in the day, the English actually tried to completely eradicate the Welsh language and culture – and even now, some Welsh pubs have a strict but silent ‘no-English’ rule. They also drowned one of our towns so that the Liverpudlians could drink fresh Welsh water, but I guess that’s quite literally all water under the bridge now.

Following the collapse of the Roman Empire, missionaries known as the ‘Celtic saints’ established monastic habitations in Wales, and now the official religion is Christianity and Methodism. Although less and less people are practising these faiths, we still have some killer cathedrals and chapels.

The name of the country, Wales, is said to translate from Anglo Saxon English to mean ‘foreigners’ or ‘outsiders.’ The Welsh version of the name, Cymru, translates to ‘friends’ or ‘companions,’ making it much more preferable to use. The Welsh language itself came from Celtic tribes 4,000 years ago – so next time you see a sign for Cwmrhydyceirw or Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, remember that it’s partly due to our sadistic Celtic ancestors.

The coal industry was the main career driver for generations of Welshies, but it began to weaken during the Great Depression in the 1930s. In the late 20th century, both coal and steel industries had begun to collapse, and many people are still bitter about it. It was a massive blow to the local communities that thrived upon the industrial revolution, and novels such as How Green Was My Valley really delve into this issue on a much deeper level.

Wales is a thoroughly under-appreciated and yet vitally important part of history, as Welsh engineers, linguists, musicians, writers and soldiers helped to not only make significant contributions to the development of the British Empire, but also, technically, founded America.

In 1170 (hundreds of years before Christopher Columbus even existed, let alone was credited for his biggest voyage), a young Welsh prince, Madog Ab Owain Gwynedd, made his way to what we now considered to be the most influential country in the world: the USA. Not only did the Welsh people discover America, but 13 out of 17 signatures on the American Declaration of Independence were added by Welsh men, and North America was nearly a Welsh-speaking continent. Could you imagine how much better the Land of the Free would be if they all had Valleys accents?!

Some parts of Wales also shelter birds and mammals that are extinct or rare elsewhere in Britain, such as European polecats, pine martens, red kites, choughs, and even bottlenose dolphins. It’s a pretty incredible place. The weather is temperate, and we get some truly divine summers where everyone swarms to the beaches and mountains to soak up some rays. I cannot WAIT for you to fall as in love with it as the rest of us are.

Portmeirion

To start with, Portmeirion is, quite frankly, one of the craziest places I have ever visited. It’s the sort of town where nothing seems to make sense – it’s a little like being in Alice Through the Looking Glass.

Portmeirion was built between 1925 and 1973 by a Welsh architect called Clough Williams-Ellis, whose vision was to create the ‘ideal village’. He wanted to show how a location so rich with natural beauty could be developed without it being ruined, enhancing the surroundings through sympathetic development. Due to the fact that several buildings were salvaged from demolition sites, Clough regarded Portmeirion as ‘a home for fallen buildings’.

Walk along the cobbled streets of Portmeirion and find yourself immersed in a thousand different cultures. There’s the Italian architecture, with beautiful painted facades, tall domes, contrasted arches, columns, and pilasters. Then there’s the Buddhist and Hindu statues, with various Asian design influences. There’s also the coastal path which will send you to a coast that looks almost exactly like a Greek postcard, with bright blue seas that stretch for miles and beautiful private beaches. And then of course, there’s the Chinese Lake which looks almost exactly like a Monet painting, with the lily pads glinting in the sunlight and the bright red Chinese bridge reflected in the water.

When I visited Portmeirion, my girlfriend and I spent about six hours in the village, and honestly, there was a surprising amount of things to see and do. It has six coffee shops on site where we gorged ourselves on green tea and homemade gelato, along with some wonderful food places that offer everything from Italian pizzas to finger sandwiches.

As Clough once said, ‘I think that Beauty, The Strange Necessity…is something that matters profoundly to humanity, and that unless the race of man perishes from the earth, it will increasingly value that Grace, will seek it, and will ultimately attain it.’ Long story short, I cannot recommend the wonderful Portmeirion more.

Aberystwyth

Having lived in Aberystwyth for nearly four years (!!!), I have come to the conclusion that it is quite literally one of the most beautiful towns in West Wales. Filled with quaint cafes, old bookstores, archaic arcades, and sleepy bars, it still feels like it’s 1908. Located right beside the Irish sea and snuggled between bulbous hills and gorgeous beaches, it’s no wonder that Queen Victoria herself once visited and nearly got crushed to death by an elephant on the funicular.

There are so many super cute things to do in Aber, such as having a bonfire on North Beach, stopping for ice-cream at the top of Constitution Hill, or playing pool in one of its 50+ pubs. In the winter, Aberystwyth is covered in a blanket of snow, and is home to the most powerful storms (they’re incredible – I highly recommend!). Along with that, an ice rink opens and the local Arts Centre shows some truly fantastic plays. In the spring, it’s a great place to animal-watch and look out for dolphins. In the summer, an almost overwhelming amount of English tourists come to town – and with good reason, as the seaside is the perfect place to spend a hot summer’s day. And then in the autumn, the leaves die and the town returns to its usual self.

For food, there’s no place that I could recommend more than Arabic Flavour. Run by the incredible 22-year-old Ghofran along with her family, Arabic Flavour is an absolute haven for foodies; with a focus on delicious home-cooked food from Syria, Turkey, Lebanon, and some of the gulf countries. Ghofran herself is super impressive, running the kitchen, the shop, and everything behind-the-scenes, and there’s no better local restaurant I’d rather support.

The food at Arabic Flavour is absolutely divine, with my favourite dish being the the chicken shawarma meal (served with chips, salad, pickles, and sauces). It’s so incredibly flavoursome, it made my cheeks tingle! I was told about how they carefully select fresh vegetables and olive oil for their dishes, and believe me, it shows! Honestly, there’s nothing quite like it.

Also in Aberystwyth (or near enough) are a million beautiful walks, namely:

Bwlch Nant yr Arian: An absolutely stunning place to go for a walk, Bwlch Nant Yr Arian is located at the very top of a moody, dramatic valley, offering endless views of Cardigan Bay and the Cambrian Mountains. It’s a great place to take the dog for a swim in the lakes, or watch the daily feeding of Wales’ national bird of prey, the red kites.

Devil’s Bridge: A super pretty area with a whole bunch of waterfalls and – yep, you guessed it – bridges. Rumour has it that before the original bridge was built, an old woman was wandering the area because her cow had gone missing. When she finally found it, it was grazing on the other side of the river and refused to come back. For whatever reason, the Devil himself popped up and offered to build her a bridge in return for the soul of the first living thing to cross it. The old woman agreed, and when the Devil finished building the bridge, she threw a piece of bread across the river for her dog to chase after – thus becoming the first living thing to cross the bridge. The woman got her cow, the Devil got a dog he didn’t want, and Ceredigion got Devil’s Bridge.

Ystrad Einion: A super cool lead, silver, zinc, and copper mine, which you can explore to your little heart’s content. Personally, I’ve spent hours in this mine, wandering past abandoned mining equipment and weird insects that have no eyes and are bigger than my fist. 10/10 place to visit.

Tan Y Coed: Tan Y Coed is a super cute picnic place which is nestled between beech woods and the Cwm Cadian riverside. You can wander amongst waterfalls, pools, woodlands, and frogs (there’s a lot of frogs). After the First World War, the Forestry Commission began planting the woodlands at Tan Y Coed, as the war effort had pretty much sucked the country dry of its timber. The planting continued through the Second World War by the Land Army Girls, who pretty much did all of the work that you can see today. It’s p cool.

Aberaeron

Aberaeron is a stunning Balamori-esque seaside town with rows upon rows of brightly-coloured houses, white-sand beaches, and cute little shops. The famous poet Dylan Thomas also visited here for a short time, making it a pretty ideal location to sit with one of his novels, take in the gorgeous scenery, and learn a little more about Welsh history.

For food, I highly recommend Monachty (for burgers), Ambassadors Cafe (for cakes), and Zuko’s (for ice-cream), along with the many fish and chip shops you’ll find congregating around the beach. 

Machynlleth

Fun fact: Machynlleth is where I got my first ever tattoo, in a little parlour called El Diablo.

Machynlleth (also known as ‘Mach’ to those who can’t pronounce its full name) is a truly mesmerising little town which feels as though it hasn’t changed since the early 1600s, and is filled with an abundance of churches and old record stores, beautiful monuments, and bookstores with endless novels on Shamanism and magic and Celtic history.

One of my absolute favourite things about this unassuming little town is the fact that the Museum of Modern Art is here. It’s such a funky little museum – and two years ago, I bought my favourite book on exploration from here.

Some extra town highlights include:

• Corris Craft Centre: Made up of nine little craft centres and a super cute cafe.
• Falconry Experience Wales: Where you can hang out with some birds of prey.
• Owain Glyndwr’s Parliament House: The house where Owain Glyndwr briefly held a parliament after being crowned Prince of Wales in 1404.
• Cors Dyfi: A super pretty nature reserve.
• Glandyfi Castle: A mock castle from the early 19th century.
• Centre for Alternative Technology: An eco-centre dedicated to teaching sustainable development.
• Artists’ Valley: Super pretty walk.
• Furnace Falls: Two minutes from Artists’ Valley, has a lovely little waterfall.

Also, one of my favourite day trips from Machynlleth is the Elan Valley. Technically it’s not in West Wales, but it’s still something you should see nonetheless. Imagine chestnut horses gilded in the sunlight, sun-drenched cows moo-ing beside open lakes, a super cute teahouse serving the best vegan cakes in Wales… It’s truly one of the best places ever.

NEW QUAY

New Quay is a teeny tiny seaside town just south of Aberystwyth, which houses a mere 1,082 people. Located on Cardigan Bay, it’s made up of golden beaches, flocks of snow-white seagulls, and (sometimes) bright blue skies. Previously, the area was used as a shipbuilding centre and port, along with providing the ideal hiding place for smuggling spirits and tobacco.

In New Quay, you can grab a classic pysgod a sglodion, relax beside the water, and let your worries drift away as you watch bottlenose dolphins leap out into the sunshine. All in all, it’s a lovely slice of the quaint West Wales coast.

Borth and Ynyslas

Borth has the largest sandy beach in Ceredigion, and is another nice little seaside resort. Initially, the village was almost entirely made up of Welsh speakers, but since then, it has unfortunately become anglicised: over 54 per cent of its residents were born in England. Of course, we all have our flaws, and Borth is still nice nonetheless.

Ynyslas is right next to Borth, and is part of the Dyfi National Nature Reserve. It is known for its spectacular sand dunes, which house a rich population of mosses, liverworts, fungi, orchids, insects and spiders. Many of these are super rare, and some have not been spotted anywhere else in the UK. There’s a whole load of wetland birds, there’s some super cute walking trails, and all in all, it’s a pretty cool place to visit.

Aberdyfi

Also known by its Anglicised name ‘Aberdovey’, this village is one of Britain’s prettiest seaside resorts. Wander along pastel houses and golden sherbet sands, beneath candyfloss clouds and milk chocolate seagulls, taking it all in.

You may already know Aberdyfi from the popular Welsh folk song, Clychau Aberdyfi (meaning, ‘The Bells of Aberdyfi’). The theme of the song revolves around Cantre’r Gwaelod, a kingdom submerged beneath Cardigan Bay. According to the song, you can still hear the bells of the kingdom ringing beneath the water. Try listening and see what happens.

The vibe of Aberdyfi is quite similar to Aberystwyth, in that the main appeal that brings in the tourists is the seaside, with a million cute little cafes, specialist boutiques, and art galleries making up the town centre. Also similar to Aberystwyth, it is enveloped by spectacular mountains and valleys, although with Aberdyfi, you are offered the peaks of Cadair Idris and Aran Fawddwy rather than Constitution Hill and that one tiny mountain which has a brick statue on top of it.

I’ve been told that the Aberdyfi quayside is also a great place to go crabbing – but I am yet to try it out.

Tywyn

If you follow the Wales Coastal Path, it will take you straight to Tywyn, the town where the mountains meet the sea. When the sun is out, you can look up the coast and take in the wonderful views of Bardsey Island, Pwllheli, and Aberystwyth.

Of course, one of the best things to do in Tywyn is visit the beach, along with taking a ride on an old steam train, watching a movie at the Magic Lantern Cinema, or buying a literary masterpiece from one of their cute little bookshops.

One of my favourite things in Tywyn is to visit Dolgoch Falls, a series of three waterfalls which can be explored along the 6km walk. It is a truly beautiful area, with a whole set of caves, trails, and waterfall views, and is something you’re not going to want to miss out on on your journey across West Wales.

Ystrad Fflur

Also known as Strata Florida, this is a former Cistercian abbey which was first founded in 1164. It became relatively important to the area, as in 1238, the Prince Llywelyn ap Iorwerth held a council here, acknowledging that his son Dayffd was his rightful successor. Less than 200 years later, there was a massive rebellion held by the infamous Owain Glyndwr, and then the abbey was stolen by King Henry IV. In 1539, Henry VIII dissolved the abbey, and the buildings and their contents were sold off, with most of the ancillary buildings being demolished.

Now, Ystrad Fflur is the resting place for generations of Welsh princes, and remains a site for pilgrims nearly 1,000 years later. You can visit the ruins, walking beneath the carved west doorway and wandering around the nave to where the high altar once stood. The floors and church used to be covered in these incredible decorated tiles, which you can still see, with the patterns of griffins, birds, and fleurs-de-lis covering the walls.

It’s pretty cool – there’s no wonder that it’s earned the nickname ‘Westminster Abbey of Wales’.

blaenau ffestiniog

Blaenau Ffestiniog is hands down my absolute favourite place in the whole of Wales. Having just become a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town is composed mostly of massive slate piles, mountains, and abandoned stone houses.

I don’t mean to be dramatic when I say that I want to live here. Forever. I’m from the south of Wales where everything is made up of prefabs and fast cars, and where the Welsh language is added to the bottom of road signs as an afterthought, and so visiting somewhere where Welsh culture, history, and heritage is at the forefront of everything was extremely refreshing.

One of my favourite things to do in Blaenau Ffestiniog is visit the local Llechwedd Deep Mine, where I learnt about the complex history of Welsh slate mining for the first time. Our tour guide Steve showed us around, and it was so immersive, educational, and at some points emotional, that it might just be the best tour I’ve ever been on. Honestly, it’s one thing you absolutely cannot miss when travelling to the area.

We stayed at a lovely hotel called Plas Weunydd, a gorgeous hotel with quartz-speckled grounds, a wonderful tea selection with Siwgr a Sbeis shortbreads on slate coasters, and a close proximity to the best things in the town (and by that, I mean a 30-second walk).

When we arrived, it was all spotlessly clean, with a beautiful grey and blue colour theme running throughout. There were so many cute details all exuding a rustic farmer house vibe, such as the beautiful burnt orange armchairs beneath a massive sculpture photograph. Beside it was a massive window overlooking the slate mountains, and the big pouffe seat beneath the glass was both comfortable and stylish, and I spent many hours sat on it reading. In the morning, we left the blinds open just a little bit so that we could watch the absolutely magnificent sunrise over the slate town.

I appreciated the fact that the television was slightly off to the side, not obscuring the connection with nature. Beneath it was a little booklet that offered tips and advice on the best local places to eat, facilities and tourist attractions, and information on the artists that had contributed such wonderful art to the hotel. Believe me when I say I read every single page, delighted to be on a holiday in my home country.

The bathroom was stylish and modern with quirky decorations and super cute bathware by Cole and Co., along with a powerful shower and incredibly soft towels. It was a great place to take time kicking back and relaxing, taking it all in.

Breakfast was lovely, with my travel partner opting for the platter of ham and cheese – which included Cavern Aged Cheddar from the Llechwedd Deep Mine. They also had a delicious Eggs Benedict which came with local organic poached eggs, ham, and hollandaise on a toasted muffin. The staff were super nice and came up with great alternatives when I told them about my Crohn’s Disease, and honestly, my whole experience was wonderful.

I was so surprised at how different north and south Wales are, and it felt good to be walking the footsteps of my ancestors in my new favourite place in the world. Blaenau Ffestiniog, I’ll be seeing you again soon.

And so, that sums up the Wandering Everywhere guide to West Wales! If you’ve ever visited Wales, then you’re probably wondering why I haven’t bothered to mention Carmarthenshire or Pembrokeshire in this post, right? Well, you lucky thing, I have actually spoken about both in my free guide to Wales!

Have you guys ever visited West Wales, or plan on doing so now that you’ve read this post? Let me know in the comments below!

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The Hotel

Walking up to the hotel entrance with an old green rucksack slung over my shoulder, I felt throughly underdressed. Mirroring the exterior of an old manor house, it looked like the sort of place you’d catch Carrie Bradshaw sauntering around, swathed in Gucci and mink – and here I was in trainers. After checking in and denying the option for a porter at reception, I found myself led to the most gorgeous of open-plan rooms.

I’d landed the executive suite, and it was even larger than I’d imagined. The room followed a green and gold colour scheme, with high ceilings punctured with a crystal chandelier, and wide glass doors opening out to my balcony. With the light filtering in through the white voile curtains, my room was bright and airy. I immediately began to fill the massive wardrobe with an array of obnoxious outfits and popped open a bottle of sparkling water. It wasn’t hard to see why this place had such a high status.

The balcony was gorgeous, overlooking the gorgeous golf course surrounding the resort. Enveloped in my new matching robe and slippers, I ordered room service and sat outside snacking on sorbet – a stunning selection of raspberry, lemon, and apple cider, brought in on a silver platter.

It didn’t take long for me to understand the concept of a ‘staycation,’ where people book little holidays away in gorgeous hotels, spending the time relaxing and truly taking advantage of the services available. I spent a good hour lounged out on my massive and ridiculously comfy bed (which would easily have fit four people, with enough space for them to starfish), and chilled around the room for a while – taking it all in, reading, and drinking coffee.

The bathroom was pristine, with a massive bath and accessories from the White Company. It didn’t take long the massive bath was filled to the brim with scalding water and bubbles, where I submerged myself and lay uncontactable for hours. After, I slathered myself in the White Company’s moisturiser and dived into the millions of pillows of my bed, feeling truly cosy and cared for. With the help of my complimentary ‘sleep spray,’ I fell asleep easily.

The Food

As I made my way to the Vale Grill for AA Rosette dining, my heels clacked on the shiny reception floor. Walking into the restaurant surrounded by candles, flowers, and art, I was led to a table where my chair was pulled out for me and a napkin was placed over my lap. The chefs were visible at their assigned stations at the back of the restaurant, frying and sizzling and roasting. It didn’t take long for the place to fill up.

The food, as expected, was stunning. Having grown up in a household run by chefs, I pride myself in being able to spot good, high quality food – and the Vale Grill definitely lived up to standards. I sampled the salmon en croute with pea puree and watercress salad, with the pastry being perfect and the dish well-balanced. That was followed by pan seared chicken with crushed new potatoes, baby vegetables, and salsa verde, with a side of leek and spinach. The chicken was cooked flawlessly, although it could definitely have done with more sauce – especially as it came with a tower of potato, you don’t get a lot of moisture from the food itself. For dessert, I followed a recommendation from my waiter and went for homemade toffee cookie dough ice-cream and it was stunning – although, full from the rest of the meal, I sadly couldn’t even come close to finishing it.

In the same location you would also have your breakfast, which would come in the style of a buffet. With an abundance of fruits, cakes, and fry-up ingredients, you can fill yourself up for hours. Next door, you have the Vale Bar, where I whittled away several hours sat amongst the plush green and grey chairs, minding my own business as I wrote and sipped green tea. At some point the Welsh rugby team sauntered past my table, and I was reminded of the sort of company I was amongst.

Lunch was included as part of my spa day, so I headed to the Chai Cafe for food which again came in my favourite form of dining – a buffet. Helping myself to smoked salmon, falafel, tomato soup, meats, tarts, and an array of salads – from quinoa to Greek to classic veg – I ate a ridiculous amount. Due to the fact that it was all healthy, instead of feeling bloated I felt energised and ready for the afternoon ahead.

The Spa

I was taken on a tour around the spa (recorded to be Wales’ largest) prior to my treatment, and was shown around dozens of traditional and holistic treatment rooms and relaxation zones. They had a sauna, steam room, whirlpool bath, indoor pool, ‘slumber’ zone, ‘float’ zone (the best one), and a room where you could just sit back and rub a stone Buddha’s stomach for good luck. It didn’t take me long to realise that this was where I would be spending the majority of my down-time. After my tour, I was handed a branded drawstring bag – perfect should I had been better prepared and arrived with a book – and went into the dressing room to change into my robe and slippers. Surrounded by Hollywood-esque dressing tables, I felt excited at my upcoming treatment. Spoiler: it turned out to be amazing.

Having never had aromatherapy before, I didn’t have a clue as to what to expect when I went in for my treatment. As it happens, the basic idea is that you’re slathered in essential oils and then massaged for healing purposes. I’m not sure as to how much the massage actually healed my ailments – instead, I merely felt more relaxed than I ever had in my whole life. It felt surprisingly good to have my body go through a thorough kneading, and with the background music consisting of Chinese zen tunes and ocean waves, I very nearly fell asleep.

When it ended I felt so relaxed that I may as well have just melted into a puddle on the table, and my masseuse brought me a glass of water as after aromatherapy it is really important to stay hydrated as the body releases toxins. I was led to the ‘float’ zone where I spread out on a heated waterbed in a candle-lit room, closing my eyes and feeling engulfed in pure bliss. With a mini indoor waterfall making soft noises in the middle of the room, I felt as if I were in a suspended state like that moment just before you nod off. With snoring lightly coming from the other end of the dark room, I didn’t doubt that that was exactly the feeling we all shared.

My stay at the Vale Resort was one of which I feel blessed to have experienced. Leaving the hotel, I felt thoroughly disappointed to be walking away from a life where I had other people bring food to my room and pull out chairs for me, to a place where I have to wash my own dishes. The Vale was an absolute dream – and I already want to return.

And so, would you guys consider staying somewhere like the Vale Resort, where you can just spend days on end feeling utterly pampered? Let me know in the comments below!

Plas Dinas Country House is a gorgeous award-winning hotel perfectly located between the Irish Sea and Snowdonia’s mountain range. The setting is stunning, with an extensive 15 acres of land surrounding the house where you can sit in the garden and bask in the sun reading a novel, utterly enveloped by the Welsh countryside, as little rainbows bounce away from the fountain and onto the grass around you. 

This grandeur building dates back to the mid-1600’s and is Grade II listed, swathed in history and extensive Victorian additions. The hotel was a favourite of Princess Margaret (my second favourite royal!*), who would often spend weekends at this humble estate. As you walk through the door, you will be greeted by old family portraits, breathtaking oil paintings, and memorabilia from the time of Princess Margaret, and Lord Snowdon.

One of my favourite places in the whole house is the Drawing Room, as it is full of original furniture and Victorian relics. I feel as though this room embodies the true heart of the house, with its roaring fire, baby grand piano, and glistening chandeliers. You can sit back on one of their plush fabric sofas, listen to the relaxing lounge music, read one of their old books or luxury magazines, or perhaps play a game of chess or backgammon. Make your way over to the Honesty Bar or order a drink from their menu, and simply kick back and relax. 

With several of their 10 bedrooms spanning back an incredible 400 years, these little pockets of history are all individually designed, flaring their own personalities. I spent my evenings in the Princess Margaret Suite, arguably the best room in the house. With crisp linen, plump cushions, goose down pillows and duvets, and a stunning embroidered cover, I felt myself melt into the bed at night. I had never stayed in a four poster bed prior to this, and let me tell you, it is a truly divine feeling.

We were welcomed by mini bell jars filled with homemade fudge and biscuits, and a wonderful service en chambre box full of a wide selection of teas (with their loose leaf tea being to die for!), coffees, and thick hot coco. The room housed a little ‘in case you forgot’ kit full of necessities that hotel-goers often leave at home, and the bathroom featured a small toothpaste and Molton Brown toothbrush (who knew that they even did designer toothbrushes?) and the most divine moisturiser I have ever tried. Honestly, had I forgotten to pack my entire wash bag, I would have still come out of it sparkling clean.

We would wander about our suite in our fluffy bathrobes and slippers, draped across the chaise lounge as we flicked through luxury magazines and antiquated books half the size of my body. There was a gorgeous stag head decanter on the centre table topped with sherry, beside two beautiful crystal glasses which we used to toast our arrival. One of my favourite parts of the room was the writing bureau, as it had original letters regarding Princess Margaret framed on the desk and made me feel as though I were an old Jane Austen character. 

The room had an en-suite with mist-free heated mirrors, and windows overlooking the grounds and nearby ocean. The bath was large enough to fit two people, with a flat-screen television, luxe bath milk, and a tiara to recreate Princess Margaret’s iconic bath photo beside it. I spend approximately two hours in that bath, reading magazines and watching shows, gradually growing more and more wrinkled, and a further 20 minutes trying to wash the soap from my hair in their large and powerful shower. It was a very relaxing time.

For breakfast, expect to be swathed in glorious morning sun, sat surrounded by museum-worthy paintings and a wide selection of food options. I loved waking up to freshly baked croissants and pain au chocolat which were soft and warm in the middle and had a divinely flaky outside. We would then snack on their seasonal berries and fresh fruit, homemade fig and almond granola, and yoghurts and breads whilst we awaited our menu-chosen breakfasts to come from the kitchen. 

I ordered a Welsh breakfast with grilled thick-cut bacon and local butchers’ award-winning pork and leek sausages, and my travel partner ordered smoked salmon with crushed avocado. As we had come to expect, both were delicious. To go with the meal, I tried a pot of white tea – which I usually have reservations about but was surprisingly flavoursome and featured complex sweet notes. My travel partner ordered a pot of freshly brewed coffee which she informed me, ’embodies everything a real coffee should.’ 

The back of the breakfast menu had translations for popular Welsh food words, such as pwdin du (black pudding) and paned o de (cup of tea), which I thought was a nice little nudge to the Welsh heritage which the house is swathed in. The breakfast room featured two large windows which overlooked the gorgeous gardens, which were full of just-sprouting spring buds, and was a beautiful sight to start the day.

Dinner at the country house was particularly splendid, with a very small and thoroughly perfected menu. Evening meals are served in the Gun Room, which features a stunning stone inglenook fireplace which the original house was built around. It feels very intimate, as you’re sat relatively close to your dinner companion and the room is lit by candle. 

We had little tasters between courses to refresh the senses, with my personal favourites being the gin and elderflower sorbet and the pea and almond soup with treacle bread. It was a delightful way to work up to the main courses, and we spent the extra time talking about the dishes, taking in the details of the room around us, and listening to the soft jazz music which played in the background. The food staff would wear gloves as they brought out each dish, a nod to the high class dining we were experiencing. 

The cuisine in the Gun Room is the sort that forces you to eat slowly, really paying attention to each sensation and bite. Some of my food highlights include their pork cheek with spiced plum, cod with crispy squid and chorizo, and the incredible cuts of lamb with flavoursome veg and creamy potato. The slower speed at which I ate everything made the whole experience more intense and flavoursome, and the dishes kept me full for the rest of the day. 

As I am currently lactose-free, I did worry that my diet would restrict me from trying some of their dishes, but they were prepared and more than happy to work around it, sourcing equally as delicious alternatives to some of the ingredients. For example, dessert entailed gorgeous fresh berries with pink meringue and sweet lactose-free ice-cream – mouthwateringly divine, and the cherry on top to a truly tasteful evening.

My stay at Plas Dinas was made all the better by the hosts, Daniel and Annie. Whilst I was unfortunately unable to meet Annie in person, she was helpful and friendly in the booking process, and then Daniel was very charismatic and eager to show me his personal favourite parts of the house. We were well cared for throughout the course of our stay, with the several staff members we met being very lovely and hospitable. Together, the team made sure that we were well looked after, and were always ready to offer any additional services that we may have needed. 

This trip feels like a world away from the stresses surrounding us from Covid-19, and I cannot wait to go back when this is all over. The house embodies everything a country house should – luxury, an abundance of gorgeous food, and lovely hosts. 

*For reference, my ultimate favourite Royal is Queen Victoria, due to her relations with India and her death-defying love for her husband. She was a controversial ruler in many respects, but I feel as though her genuine love and respect for others cannot be doubted.

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I had been following Martyn’s work for a while, being a bit of a caving weeb myself, and loved being able to learn about his caving career and listen to the many stories that he had gathered from it.

Stepping into his home, I was surrounded by all of these beautiful underwater photographs – it was like being in Wales’ most beautiful gallery. Underwater photography is incredibly difficult, and Martyn was the first to start the techniques of it in the UK.

But that’s just the beginning of this living legend.

Who is Martyn Farr? 

Martyn Farr is, quite frankly, one of Wales’ coolest explorers. He is known around the world for his record-breaking cave dives and exploration of seemingly endless miles of previously undiscovered passages.

Within our interview, he told me all about the beauty of caving, his favourite caves, and lessons learned along the way.

Martyn began caving in 1961 and cave diving at Swansea University in 1971. Within ten years, he had travelled both the length and breadth of the UK and Ireland, had reached a depth record of 60 metres at Wookey Hole, and created a world water for underwater cave penetration in the Bahamas.

Following that, he made the very first cave dive in Borneo, and then the first cave dive using scuba equipment in China. He went through Llangattock Mountain, marking the longest and deepest caving through trip in the British Isles, and has since acted as support diver in the British-led expedition to Pozo Azul for the world’s longest cave diving penetration (5.5 miles).

Frankly, Martyn Farr is a very impressive man.

One of my favourite things to do this time of year is help out on a local farm. It’s fun, it’s educational, and is definitely something that everyone should get involved in at least once. As such, here’s 10 reasons why you should help out on your local farm this year.

1. You get to ride fun farm vehicles. The first ever farm vehicle I rode was this big quad bike, where I drove myself and the farmer’s wife around their fields. It was super sunny, the sky was bright blue, we were surrounded by fluffy white clouds and sheep, and as the machine threw us this way and that, the woman damn nearly killed herself laughing as I nearly yeeted us into trees and over fat rocks. It’s a lot of fun.

2. Hang out with a load of cool animals. My personal favourite thing to do on a farm is hang out with kids and calves – they’re so friendly and lovely. I absolutely fell in love with the first ever calf that I hung out with – she was super beautiful and had the most divine eyelashes. Man, I miss her.

3. Farms are super pretty! At least in the UK, they all feature big farmhouses with green hills towering over golden valleys, with the constant moo-ing and baa-ing, the rogue chickens that follow you everywhere, and the dogs covered in scars from guarding the livestock. I love it all. 

4. You will learn a helluva lot about animals. I remember the first time I saw an orphan lamb covered in the skin of a dead lamb so that it’s adoptive mother would accept it and it wouldn’t die: it was super interesting (and creepy)! And then there was the time I was warned about how much to feed a pregnant ewe to make sure the lamb doesn’t grow too big and break the mother’s ribs as it comes out. Who knew?

5. You get to be a cowboy. Or, at least, a sheepboy. I remember carrying two lambs beneath each arm whilst chickens waddled around me and the guard dogs growled at an incoming tractor, and I felt exactly like one of those movie cowboys. Especially when I looked across the field and saw a bunch of *actual* cowboys riding bareback.

6. You learn to get over things. Mucking out sickly pink and yellow innards after a birth, or driving several of your favourite sheep down to the neighbouring farm to be sold for slaughter definitely makes your skin a little tougher. For a moment, you’re fully engulfed in the cycle of life and death, and that means that you learn to put up with things and get over them. 

7. You get to stretch your legs. I have never felt more fit than when working on a farm – I’ve worked with ladies aged 73 that are still running circles around their herds, just because they’re out using their muscles all day long. You’ll leave feeling a whole lot healthier.

8. An abundance of fresh air. Hanging out in the great outdoors is one of my biggest passions, and doing so whilst in a Polaris Ranger and speeding through the fields with open doors and bright blue skies with herds of sheep chasing you is a great feeling.

9. Everything has its place, and you become a part of that. I love how everything operates on a farm and how everything fits together. Working on a farm means that you – however briefly – commit yourself to working life, and once you’re engaged in the routine of things, you become a part of what makes it all tick. If you’re ever feeling lost, becoming a farmhand is one way to overcome that.

10. Stargazing. The sky at night on a farm is one of the most mesmerising things I have ever seen. There’s all of these old big barns and tractors glinting in the moonlight, with a billion silver stars tinkling overhead. I’d never actually recognised those formations that people always talk about until my first night on a farm, and it was so beautiful, it felt as though I’d never even seen a night sky before.

And so, that sums up the top 10 reasons why you should help out at your local farm this season. Of course, I haven’t even mentioned other fantastic benefits such as the food (there’s nothing heartier and healthier than farm food), but I’ll let you experience all that yourself.

For me, the worst bit is building bonds with animals knowing that they’re likely going to end up slaughtered, and that absolutely sucks. But it’s going to happen whether or not you nurse a sickly lamb back to health or hang out with the isolated bull – their lives are just going to be a little bit better for you turning up.

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In a town of 32,000, where dreams were forged alongside molten metal, the potential loss of 2,800 jobs is a seismic hit. The pulse of Port Talbot has long been synchronised with the rhythmic hum of the steelworks, an unspoken understanding that generations would follow in the footsteps of their forebears.

Now, as the blast furnaces stand silent, the air is heavy with uncertainty and despair. It’s not just about losing jobs; it’s about losing a way of life. The town, once a vibrant testament to industry, now has the community grappling with an uncertain future.

To learn more, I sat down with Tim Rutter, the steelworker and expert in media management who had been sent to calm the media frenzy.

As Tim spoke, his unwavering commitment echoed in the air. The loss of jobs would be devastating, he said, but the switch to a more environmentally friendly method would be worth it in the end.

Tim’s words paint a vivid picture – no more ore sourced from the far ends of the earth, they would instead simply re-use humble metal scraps from the UK. A move towards green steel, fuelled not only by legislation but by a collective cry for a cleaner future. The switch will reduce the site’s emissions by around 85% a year.

The infamous Port Talbot skyline will morph into something unfamiliar. Yet, amid the chaos, there’s a glimmer of hope in the form of a four-year plan. A new facility, a beacon for a green future, is a lifeline in a sea of uncertainty.

‘Not many people get to see the inside of the Steelworks for themselves,’ Tim explained, ‘it is very much akin to the Willy Wonka Chocolate Factory. Only the lucky few get a golden ticket.’

As our time together ends, the weight of emotions lingers. The Port Talbot steelworks, poised on the precipice of transformation, bears witness to a delicate dance between progress and preservation. It’s a story of a town’s resilience, a testament to the human spirit, and a plea for understanding in the face of irrevocable change.

The steelworks isn’t just an industry; it is the very essence of Port Talbot.

The UK is predicted to be around three weeks behind Italy in terms of severity, and only two weeks behind France – which is probably why the British government has only just announced that we should all be staying indoors.

Due to the fact that I have Crohn’s Disease, an autoimmune disease, I have had to self-isolate for the past four days as the Coronavirus has made its way to the county of Ceredigion. My immune system simply would not be able to fight against a virus like this taking root inside my body, so I have had to cut off pretty much all social interactions for now. Every single one of my social events for the next few months have been cancelled, so it’s a pretty weird time to be a third year university student. At this point, it’s unlikely we will be getting a graduation ceremony.

I am staying at my girlfriend’s house for the time being, as it is has a large sun window overlooking the ocean, less people coming in and out, and is fully stocked with all of my food. I will be laying low for the next few weeks, monitoring the situation across the country and trying to shield myself from the Coronavirus.

This self-isolation has meant that I have had a lot of time to really focus on things I’ve been putting off. I’m reading a bunch of travel books that I hadn’t found the time to read, writing articles for local magazines (since all of my NWR cultural correspondent duties have been cancelled for the meanwhile), cooking an unholy amount of pasta, watching Love is Blind (I’m disgusted, too) on Netflix, and trying to finalise publishing the first issue of a new local magazine. I’ve been doing yoga and painting-by-numbers, and spending time with the love of my life. At this point, there really is nothing left to do but breathe and stay calm.

Personally, I’m trying to focus on the positive news in the world – such as wildlife returning to cities that have been ruined by humans, little acts of kindness that people are doing for one another, and the fact that air pollution in China has dropped by 30%. The world seems to be healing, even if humans are not.

I had only decided to write this post about 40 minutes ago, as many of you were asking about how it was affecting myself and my country. There has only been a handful of cases in Wales at this moment, but that number is expected to grow for the next month or so. So far, there has only been one local fatality.

Ultimately, the answer to the earlier question is that travel bloggers are staying home with their families during the quarantine, eating food, watching movies, scribbling notes, listening and learning. I feel as though this is a truly strange time in history, and we should really be spending our time trying to do whatever good we can, in whichever ways we can.

I hope that you are all keeping safe, and are feeling well during this pandemic. I love you all endlessly.

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THE FISHERMAN’S BASTION, BUDAPEST

There’s only two things that I really want when I’m drinking hot coco – one, for the chocolate to be bordering heavenly, and two, for it to come with an absolute stunner of a view. The Fisherman’s Bastion in Hungary is definite champion for both of these categories, with views overlooking the famed Danube River, little townhouses, antiquated Hungarian ruins, and whole array of bastion turrets just a few feet away. It genuinely feels like you’ve just stepped into a magical fairytale castle, where the hot cocoa is thick, decorated with cream, and inordinately sweet. Prefer coffee over cocoa? Bones Coffee Company’s premium coffee pods offer an alternative for home brewing, featuring a range of flavored options, including seasonal and dessert-style varieties.

ANTICA DOMUS, ROME

Like with the Fisherman’s Bastion, Antica Domus hosts both incredible hot coco and an incredible view. This one, however, is definitely more well-known – it’s located only 20 feet from the Colosseum! It’s the absolute best place to see the ancient amphitheater, staying for a couple hours chatting to locals as the sun goes down and the tourists disappear. Also, the typical Italian mugs of melted chocolate are even more adjunct at Antica Domus, where you can really lose yourself in the thickly poured, rich coco, contemplating the beautiful city around you.

THE GRAPE AND OLIVE, SWANSEA

Situated in a gorgeous little city which will forever hold my heart, I would happily refer to the Grape and Olive as housing some of the best hot cocos in the whole entire world. A restaurant housed in the tallest building of the city, you’re really offered some insane views in a tower completely bereft of tourists. Overlooking the ocean, the marina, the town, and distant hills, I wouldn’t blame you for staying for a full lunch, dinner, and finishing with some hand-shaken cocktails. The hot coco is sweet and light, and perfect for that lil’ sugar rush needed for exploring the furthest depths of the city.

GLACIAR, BARCELONA

In another one of my favourite cities, I came across one of the best hot cocos I’ve ever been blessed with the privilege to try. The City of Gaudi is unsurprisingly going to be utterly stunning, but coupled with cinnamon and caramel churros with the cocoa, it instantly becomes a little sweeter. Glaciar is located just off the tiny square of Plaça Reial, which houses violin-playing wanderers and men offering to sell a rose to your sweetheart, offering you the heart of the city whilst you sip your coco. It’s the cutest little location, and the hot coco tastes just like thick churro dip – sweet and luxurious and bound to linger on your upper lip for an unprecedented amount of time.

RIVA, TROGIR

I wandered the streets of Croatia for what felt like years, trying to find a decent place that offered lactose-free hot chocolate. When I landed in the country, my Crohn’s was playing up a fair bit – meaning that I had to cancel out a lot of food groups. I was literally devastated when I found that absolutely nowhere could serve me hot coco I could actually consume – until I went to Riva. Located in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Trogir, overlooking a quaint harbour bordering beautiful ruins, you can just sit for hours and watch the world go by. The hot coco is dark and syrupy, and the fact that they went completely out of their way to figure out how to make it lactose-free was really lovely.

VIA CAFFE, KRAKOW

When you’re stuck in the middle of a snow storm, fingers numb, eyeballs turning to frost, the thing that you want most in the world is to be somewhere warm, sipping something steaming, and soon. This scenario is more or less what happened when I visited Krakow and found myself freezing my absolute butt off, bundling into the warmest cafe I could find, and stumbling upon this indulgent hot chocolate. Not only did they do soya hot coco (yesss!), but they also served the most divine cakes to go with it. It took me hours to muster up the strength to leave the confines of the cafe and venture back out in the cold – and I could only do that after one more coco.

And so, that concludes my findings for now. I have explored more of Europe than any other continent, and tried a lot of hot coco – and these are undoubtably the best.

It’s absolutely a matter of life and death – or merely just pure insanity – that I must find the best hot coco in Europe. Let me know in the comments below where you guys have scouted out the best hot coco – this may be my most important assignment yet.*

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*I just really want to lose myself in coco.

Chris Bonington:

 

“Sounds a fantastic wonderful project and I am very happy to put out my support. The very best of good fortune and have a wonderful time.”

Starting from the 1st May, we will trek over mountains, clamber through caves, and wild swim in freezing waters, staying in any accommodation we can find. We plan on covering an average of 90 miles a week, resting at lighthouses, underground bunkers, caving huts, monk-run communes (yes they have them in Wales!), pig barns, gypsy caravans, stranger’s houses, and good ol’ fashioned cabins in the woods. We will record our journey across Wales with the production of a documentary – with Inés as our camera woman with chronic back pain (inconvenient when you hold a camera for 5+ hours a day), Trianna being our travel-sick crew member, and myself being the host. Along with Cragen, of course.

We have already planned the first three months of the journey, and let me tell you, I absolutely did not think that there would be this much work involved. When Levison Wood went on his expedition to walk the Nile, I assumed that he spent about a week looking at maps and then set off in the general direction of the river. Oh, how I was wrong. This expedition has taken us nearly three years of talking about it, finalising details, and planning every single day – and we still have a lot more to go. It’s exhausting, but it will be worth it.

Reza Pakravan:

 

“This is an epic adventure around one of the most incredible parts of the world. The girls are super brave and ambitious and I am giving them my full support.”

I will be interviewing locals, getting hands-on with activities such as beekeeping, bushcraft, and metalwork, and experiencing the best and worst things that Wales has to offer. I will enter the bog snorkelling championship, attend my first ever L Fest, and try my hand at taxidermy. It’s going to be one heck of a journey, but it’s absolutely going to be worth it. 

We will walk north to meet self-proclaimed wizards, druids, former satanist priests, blacksmiths, mushroom farmers, rugby players, and millionaires – just to name a few. The more research we have conducted, the more we have become convinced that Wales is absolutely one of the wackiest places around. It’s very exciting. We might try fishing such as the adventures offered by Fishing Trips PNG and will truly throw ourselves in the deep end with different challenges and activities.

Some of you may now be asking, why us? After all, we are untrained, a little naive, and can’t even navigate with Google Maps. Heck, we’ve never spent more than a week camping combined. But regardless of all of this, we are passionate, impulsive, and ready to get more than a little messy. Inés comes from the Celtic nation of Galicia, Trianna is a weeb for Welsh culture, and I myself am Welsh through-and-through (Swansea Abertawe boiiiis) – and we all want to dig deep into the heart of the country.

Our all-woman team is going to face unsurmountable highs and lows, and spending every hour of every day with one another is going to be the ultimate test of our friendship. Plus, we are going to see a lot of each other – and as someone with Crohn’s Disease who knows that she’s going to have to sh*t in the woods, it’s not going to be pretty. But what better way to spend the summer than sleeping on mountains infamous for making you awaken either a madman or a poet? Kicking back on islands where all of the inhabitants are convicts? Meeting the people loitering around abandoned insane asylums? It’s an expedition where really, nothing could go wrong.

Crohn’s Disease is something that I have talked about before on the blog, but have never really delved into the details of. It is an immobilising, merciless disease that no one actually wants to talk about. It seems that the general public still knows nothing about Crohn’s (and even a lot of gastroenterologists are clueless about how to treat it), and so I’m hoping that by undertaking this journey, I can bring light to a subject that is commonly avoided.

Ed Stafford:

 

“[These girls] are embarking on a fantastic adventure to capture Wales in all its gritty glory. I wish them well and give my full support to the project.”

 

I know that over the course of the journey, I will face the same stomach pain, weak joints, scarred skin, and malnutrition that I face on a daily basis at home – but man, I want to be an explorer, so it’s just something that I’m going to have to suck up. By the end of it all, you guys are going to be fluent in Crohn’s-related vocab, and the stereotypes relating to auto-immune diseases will be thoroughly challenged. It’s going to be a wild ride.

I will try to update you all on our expedition as it progresses – but the fact that we will spend days even without food means that I can’t guarantee a stable internet connection. I’m hoping that we will be able to find some sort of local accommodation most nights on the road when we haven’t planned anything, but understand that a goat will stop us from a lot of people letting us stay in their houses. But hear me out: to undertake this walk with a weird-looking dog in tow would be funny, and thus, worth it.

We have already received support from numerous explorers and celebrities, such as Ash Bhardwaj, Ed Stafford, Darius Arya, Chris Bonington, Benedict Allen, Reza Pakravan, Hayley Long, and Bill Bryson – all people I have spent my life looking up to. It’s as exciting as it is scary – but knowing that we have so much support from not only the people mentioned above, but radio stations, magazines, and local businesses, makes us feel as though this is a journey that really means something to people. And if they have faith in us after knowing how hopeless a team we are, well, I guess we have to do it.

To follow our journey, why not stalk our Twitter and Instagram?

If you would like to donate, please visit our gofundme.

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