I’ll be honest and say that I initially didn’t peg Milan as a city of books, but I was glad to be proven wrong when I found myself surrounded by a strong bibliophilic culture. It seemed as though they’d built the whole city around its love of literature – from book cafes to little libreria-slash-hostels even to tea-ware houses filled with novels on love and art and meditation!

Over the course of my time in Milan, I must have visited dozens upon dozens of bookshops – or at least, little negozi which also happened to be stuffed full with books. As such, I decided to curate the perfect bookshop tour of Milan – and it only takes an hour and a half to walk from one end to the other! Please, save your dedicated praises until later.

ANNAMARIA FUMAGALLI

First of all, I want to quickly mention my favourite person in Milan. I met Annamaria Fumagalli on my first full day in the city, and let me tell you, I sure am glad that I did. She is an official licensed guide for GITEC (the Association of Italian Guides for Tourism and Culture), and was the perfect person to introduce us to the city.

She was so warm, friendly, and welcoming, that it felt simply as though I was meeting up with my grandmother. Effortlessly Milanese with her fashionable mirrored glasses and a vintage red dress, she was the know-all-end-all for the the finest places to visit in the city. When we met up, her words brought Milan to life, offering local insight and gossip whilst pointing out things such as the Sforzesco Castle, the Duomo, the fashion district, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

She pointed out little things that we would blindly have ignored, and told us about how the city has changed over the years (and more recently, due to coronavirus) – little tidbits that really made the city feel more alive and personal. One of my highlights from my time with Annamaria was when she treated us to a typical Milanese coffee inside of the beautiful Camparino, where we shared anecdotes from our lives and gazed at the beautiful architecture  and tile-work around us.

We left knowing a lot more about the city and it’s rich history, tummies full of strong Italian coffee from the best bar in Lombardi, and several handpicked brochures that Annamaria presented us. After the tour, I asked her if she could recommend any bookshops in the local area, and as it turns out, there was a helluva lot. It was from these suggestions that this book tour really came to life – without her local insight, we would absolutely have missed out on some of the gems that really shaped our trip. And so for that, thank you Annamaria – this post wouldn’t exist without you.

KATHAY

I think that Kathay has to be the best place to start a bookshop tour – and not just because it is genuinely my favourite place in the city (which also happens to be in my favourite area). Whilst not technically a ‘bookshop,’ Kathay is a kind of all-purpose store, featuring delicious culinary goods, intricately detailed homeware, and the most concentrated amount of tea-ware I have ever seen in my life. I felt exactly like a kid in a candy store, surrounded by gorgeous matcha bowls, beautiful displays of Chinese gaiwans on vintage green tables, and endless books on Korean cooking, Feng Shui, kombucha, reiki, and the art of tea – along with every other cool subject you could possibly learn about. I’m not being dramatic when I say that I could quite easily have spent the whole day there, wandering through the isles and running my fingers across the fine china. Never have I been so tempted to buy out a whole store before – and it’s definitely the first place to welcome yourself into the city.

TEMPO RITROV LIBRI

Meaning ‘Time Rediscovered Books,’ this adorable little libreria is filled with black and white framed photos of old film stars, magazines on African food and travel photography, and of course, a comprehensive collection of independent books by small publishers. They have the cutest collection of Children’s illustrated travel books, including intricately designed copies of Libro Giungla and Bella e la Bestia.

The owners of the bookshop believe that, ‘especially in Italy, the importance of reading should be affirmed and supported effectively every day. We therefore put ourselves at the service of the city together with the many other independent bookshops born in recent years, and we propose ourselves as a new and further garrison in which everyone can find time for themselves and others by isolating themselves, for a few moments, from a citizen of chaos.’

GIUNTI AL PUNTO

This is one of the many bookstores that I stumbled upon by accident – and boy, am I glad I did. Enticed by the free literary magazine, Il Libraio, drawn in by their many eye-catching discounts (because who doesn’t love a literary classic at 50% off?!), and fully reeled-in by their little knickknack sections full of explorer gear, pretty pens, and stunning notebooks, it was pretty obvious that I wouldn’t be spending less than an hour in the store. Check it out – you’ll soon understand it for yourself.

LIBRERIA DEL MONDO OFFESO

An independent Milanese bookshop, the Libreria del Mondo Offenso also doubles as a cultural centre promoting initiatives and events. The name of the place roughly translates to ‘The Bookshop of the Offended World’, from the book Conversazioni in Sicilia by Elio Vittorini, which is in essence a journey of discovery of an ‘offended world’, forcing one to take responsibility. It is a place to meet, discuss, and dream, in a haven filled with books, storytellers, and passion. They offer contemporary Italian fiction, theatre books, out-of-print novels, poetry, and gorgeous little travel books.

GINORI 1735

Despite the fact that I was stared at incredibly intensely by the shopkeepers the whole time I wandered through the shop (it was just like that infamous shopping scene in Pretty Woman), I still found myself transfixed by the beautiful pieces in front of us. Surrounded by the finest (and presumably most expensive) fine china I have ever seen, beautifully crafted and intricately painted, I felt as though I was in a Julia Gregson book. They are all absolutely beautiful and definitely something to go out of your way to see, even if to merely begin to plan your future living room – even through the intense eye contact from the staff.

The man behind the name, Carlo Ginori, began to manufacture porcelain pieces in 1735 in his workshop in Doccia, Tuscany. It soon spiralled into a prestigious company of luxury home decor objects, where it was run by the same family until 1896, when it was sold to Richard of Milan and the brand was created.

AMERICAN BOOKSTORE

Their website states, ‘Since 1981, the bookstore has been the perfect place for all lovers of American culture, thanks to the American Bookstore’s in-depth literary knowledge and American and English traditions’ – and whilst I’m not the biggest fan of these so-called American and English traditions, I did really like the store.

Their collection of books is pretty impressive, featuring more or less any genre that you could ever need (although as it is an ‘American bookstore’, I would maybe stay away from the cooking section!). Along with English books, they also offer antique prints, ancient maps, and ‘many objects and curiosities of the ancient American tradition – inside our bookshop you will be transported to a world you thought you knew, but which hides a very deep soul.’ They also sell Christmas decorations and American calendars which is pretty hip.

F. PETTINAROLI & FIGLI

Again, this is another one of those not-actually-a-bookshop bookshops – but I loved it so much that I simply had to include it! It’s the cutest little shop filled with matte vintage globes, thick leather-bound notebooks, intricate Victorian-esque ink-writing sets, shiny compasses, endless antique maps of the world, and chunky pieces of cream paper which were covered in sketches by men long gone. It’s a truly beautiful place. Apparently, it also houses the ‘widest’ selection of charts, vintage prints, antique maps of Italy and the world, as well as government charts and globes for enthusiasts and collectors. Pretty cool for a not-bookshop, eh?

MONDADORI BOOKSTORE

Mondadori has a super neat red theme running throughout the store, making it perfect for those much-desired Insta shots. It’s a big and open bookshop, and is filled with glossy modern books, super vibey music, the most passionate staff ever, and a large collection of travel, art, and architecture books. Highly recommend.

LA FELTRINELLI

La Feltrinelli is actually the first bookshop that I spent quality time in in Milan, and I liked it a lot. We stayed here for a couple hours and drank tea, slowly rummaging through their collection of photography books and black-and-white autobiographies, merely letting the world meander on by. Over the next few days, we discovered that there’s actually another Feltrinelli store in the area called La Feltrinelli Express, and a more niche one called La Feltrinelli Libri e Musica. My favourite definitely has to be that first one though, because it was both the first libreria that welcomed us, and also the place where I discovered Cleo Le-Tan (and her father)’s work for the first time. Of course, this one – like many others, was recommended to me by Annamaria. The woman really does know quality bookshops, I tell you.

LIBRERIA BOCCA

The oldest bookshop in Milan, I could have easily have spent a few hours here. The store has the coolest decorations, with postcards and bookmarks hanging down from the ceiling (which has a cool abstract painting on it), and stays true to it’s antique roots with it’s old-fashioned decor and overall feel of the place. The bookshelves start at the floor and wind their way up, brightening up the place with Taschen and Assouline. Located in the middle of the very commercialised Gallerie, this little homely store feels like a secret haven away from the hustle and bustle of the city. It’s filled with art, from the very outside in, and they specialise in books by the most exquisite, famous artists of the past to the more vibrant artists of our current generation, even shedding a light on those teeny little backstreet artists that thrive quietly. It’s a wonderful place to immerse yourself.

HOEPLI INTERNATIONAL BOOKSHOP

Because I couldn’t possibly miss out the largest bookshop in Italy! Housing over 500,000 titles of fiction and non-fiction and everything-in-between-fiction books, they also offer rare antique novels and books in their original languages. There are five floors in this bookish oasis, so there’s plenty of space (and volumes) to lose yourself in – I can promise you that you will come in here with the intention to merely browse and finger a couple copies, but will leave with every book you never knew you needed.

LIBRERIA ANTIGONE

I feel as though we didn’t find the gay bookshop, the gay bookshop found us. It was such a cool place to visit with my girlfriend – the energy was distinctly different to the outside, and it was so warm and welcoming, a real nice atmosphere. The whole aim of the store is to create a safe space free from prejudice for all minorities, sexualities, genders, and everything else; a bookshop built on respect and understanding. It’s a really lovely place to be, and they encourage curiosity and inclusion, with the kindest staff around.

Quoting from their website, ‘the Antigone bookshop wants to be a meeting point, a place for building relationships, intended as the only indispensable tool for the cultural and human growth of one another… aimed at maintaining a safe, pleasant environment [which is] useful, accessible by anyone.’ Now I don’t know about you, but that’s the place that I want to be.

Not only do they have some of the coolest books ever (and magazines, and essays, and educational texts), but I found myself irresistibly drawn to their exquisite magnet selection. And oh, the magnets! Made up of all styles and colours, depicting numerous environments and situations, I frankly wanted them all. Antigone, if you’re reading this, I wouldn’t complain  being sent one!

I never thought that I would find a bookshop dedicated wholly to the dissemination of LGBTQ+ and feminist culture and subcultures, but I am so glad that I did.

MILAN WOMEN’S LIBRARY

Although only recently established (in 1975), the Milan Women’s Library is such a cool place to visit. It’s a non-profit libreria that is both a bookshop and a meeting place, housing film screenings and even political discussions. They have a very comprehensive selection of feminist books, and similar to the Antigone, they are dedicated to the dissemination of multiple media subcultures – and in my personal opinion, there’s nothing quite as sweet as a bookshop that makes you think. The staff are all volunteers, and the place runs on pure love, respect, and passion – which if you think about it, is how every good bookshop should be.

WHERE TO STAY

At night, we stayed at the marvellous Babila Hostel and Bistro. Built in 1895, this former Catholic school is now one of the coolest places to hang out in the heart of the city.

It was such a nice place to spend the evenings, with their big clean kitchen, cosy communal room where we could kick back on the sofas and watch Netflix, and their absolutely beautiful veranda where we could watch the sun set over the city – but, fitting with the theme of the post, the highlight has to be the sheer amount of books they had.

Every corner had a shelf stacked with both antique manuscripts and shiny new novellas, where you could either take one off to the bedroom to read, or swap one of your own loved books for someone else’s loved book. They had travel guides, autobiographies, fictional novels, books on aliens – what else could you possibly need?

Mix this with their incredibly comfortably beds, the complimentary drinks you get on arrival, cool board games and boxes of Jenga, and the pool tables, and you have a place that I probably could have spent a few weeks. They do the most delicious mocktails and breakfasts, too – and all in all, I’m definitely glad I stayed here. I may have had my toothpaste and key stolen, but hey, you win some, you lose some, right?

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Eduardo martinho livros

I’m jumping straight into this post with my absolute favourite place in the whole of Lisbon – Eduardo Martinho Livros. My travel companion and I were on our way to the local market when we stumbled across this gem – where we simply couldn’t resist perusing their outside stalls full of old novels and vintage postcards. After discovering several handwritten letters between lovers from many wars ago in one of the baskets, we wandered into the main shop – which unexpectedly led to us spending hours inside the shop, sharing stories and music suggestions. Eduardo, the owner, offered us a couple shots of the classic sugary Portuguese liquor Ginja, and we spent the sunny afternoon just hanging out in the cosy little store. Kicking back with some Sinatra humming in the background and with gorgeous old novels surrounding us, it’s the sort of place you can’t help but fall in love with – and it definitely became a highlight of the whole trip. Why not pop by and say hi?

Livraria Simão

As one of the smallest bookstores in the world, it came as a massive surprise to find out that Livraria Simão stores around 4,000 books. The space was originally occupied by a tobacco shop, but Carneiro, the owner, turned this space into a curious little bookstore. Despite its size, it’s the sort of place you could loiter for a good while, pondering through antique volumes of Saramago, Camões, Queirós, and, of course, Pessoa. Featuring both popular titles and more obscure volumes, the majority of the editions for sale are second-hand, meaning that it doesn’t cost much to simultaneously blag yourself a gorgeous book and also support a (both physically and literally) small business. Another great thing about this place? The owner is tucked away about 14 inches into the store, so if you have any questions then you’re never too far from the answer.

Círculo dos letras

One of the least known places in Lisbon, Círculo dos Letras is a stunning little place in the heart of the city. The store is filled with an extensive collection of literature, with every title being super quirky and interesting – and decently priced. The walls are adorned with pretty artwork, and it’s very cute and well-organised, with seats dotted across the store to sit down and read. The books themselves are entirely random volumes, with novels such as The Art of Bonsai being sat next to a Guide to Jiuzhaigou, tucked beside a book by Ant Middleton. The livraria is such a well-kept secret that it doesn’t even have a website – but follow the Rua Voz do Operário 62 and it’ll draw you right to it!

móveis convento

Whilst located just out of the capital in an absolutely gorgeous town called Mafra, Móveis Convento is a place you absolutely cannot miss visiting. Filled with the most gorgeous antiques (I’m talking intricately painted chests from the Mogul period, and hand-painted golden bowls from underground cities), everything looks like it should be worth millions but instead is on sale for a mere couple of euros. The absolute best part of this place is the little corner where there’s hundreds of old books stacked precariously upon one other, as despite the fact that it’s not a place that specialises in being a livraria, they still possess hoards of gorgeous novels. They sell just about anything to fill your quirky kitsch needs, and along with vintage Portuguese volumes, you can also pick up an Egyptian-style Tiffany or a painting from 1600’s Japan. I can promise that you’ll fall in love instantly.

Bertrand livraria chiado

Any self-respecting bibliophile absolutely has to find themselves at this livraria – simply because of the fact that it’s the longest running bookstore in the world. The Bertrand Livraria in Chiado is in the Guinness Book of World Records for being just that, and purchasing a book here will earn you an official stamp. Made up of several wide-arched concaves joining each section, the inside of the store is super pretty, and the outside is covered in the most beautiful tiles in the city (and we all know how the alfacinhas feel about their azulejos!). After perusing the titles, you can walk down to the end of the bookshop and chill at their cafe – where you’re sure to find the best hot coco in Portugal.

Menina e moca

The first place I visited after stepping foot on Portuguese soil was the gorgeous Menina e Moca, a lovely little bar-cum-bookstore-cum-hangout. I fell in love with everything about the place immediately, from the little indoor leather seats where you are entirely surrounded by literature, to the outside space where you can bask in the sun with a mojito as you look up to read the poetry floating on a wire above your head. The absolute best part about the place, however, is the vast selection of poetry on offer, meaning that you can really lose yourself in the true essence of Lisbon. Apparently they also host epic-sounding events here – so why not visit and tell me all about them?

Livraria sá da Costa

If you’re looking for someplace adorable where you can peruse old leather-bound books with gorgeous spines, baskets full of vintage maps, and wooden hand-carved figurines placed in front of museum-worthy paintings, you’ve certainly come to the right place. Everything about this livraria just screams “organised mess,” and in doing so, immediately welcomes you into cosy, home-like surroundings. Beside gorgeous collectable books, you’ll also find old-fashioned globes and glass cases filled with antique collectors’ novels from the 18th century. For such a stunning place filled with so much poetry and wonderful Portuguese literature, it’s no wonder that it’s located just up the road from the famous Pessoa statue – so why not take a photo with him and one of his novels you’ve purchased from this bookstore?

Ler devegar

Officially the largest bookstore I have ever visited, Ler Devegar is one of the coolest places in the world ever. It’s the sort of place you could spend literal years in, devouring novel after novel without any chance of tiring of them. The building itself is super pretty, located right in the heart of the LX Factory – the hippest, loudest, and best part of the city. The walls are covered in art pieces, and there’s a bar space where you can sit down and have a few drinks whilst taking it all in. There’s a wide variety of languages available, with Portuguese unsurprisingly dominating, but with many other popular languages in stock. Intertwined with the old printing press, the whole place is swathed in history and beauty, and it’s one place you simply cannot miss out on visiting in Lisbon.

Under the cover

Officially the most effortlessly cool livraria in the whole of Lisbon – it houses the sort of chic aesthetic that my 15 year old self spent a ridiculously amount of time trying to attain. From the second you walk in you are  immediately surrounded by glossy copies of journals about tea and almanacs about travel and volumes about art. Located right next to the Gulbenkian Foundation – my favourite museum in the city – it really exudes the essence of this cultural hub. Outside, there’s a cool mirror where you get to witness how happy you look outside the store, and inside is a full-length mirror where you can glance over at yourself holding one of their books and see just how good it looks on you. Their magazines cover pretty much every topic imaginable – from food, travel, art, fashion, and photography, to architecture, culture and music – and everything in between. They offer some absolutely stunning international magazines, and also sell their own merch – the perfect way to show off the fact that you’re both a alfacinha and a massive high-standard bibliophile, probably with a fancy coffee table full of similar indie volumes.

And so, that summarises the absolute best bookstores in the whole of Lisbon – the sort of places your bucket list looks empty without. Have you guys ever visited any of these stores, or plan on doing so? Be sure to let me know in the comments below!

*Although you can thank me, if you really want to. Maybe in the form of book recommendations?

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