I’ll be honest and say that I initially didn’t peg Milan as a city of books, but I was glad to be proven wrong when I found myself surrounded by a strong bibliophilic culture. It seemed as though they’d built the whole city around its love of literature – from book cafes to little libreria-slash-hostels even to tea-ware houses filled with novels on love and art and meditation!

Over the course of my time in Milan, I must have visited dozens upon dozens of bookshops – or at least, little negozi which also happened to be stuffed full with books. As such, I decided to curate the perfect bookshop tour of Milan – and it only takes an hour and a half to walk from one end to the other! Please, save your dedicated praises until later.

ANNAMARIA FUMAGALLI

First of all, I want to quickly mention my favourite person in Milan. I met Annamaria Fumagalli on my first full day in the city, and let me tell you, I sure am glad that I did. She is an official licensed guide for GITEC (the Association of Italian Guides for Tourism and Culture), and was the perfect person to introduce us to the city.

She was so warm, friendly, and welcoming, that it felt simply as though I was meeting up with my grandmother. Effortlessly Milanese with her fashionable mirrored glasses and a vintage red dress, she was the know-all-end-all for the the finest places to visit in the city. When we met up, her words brought Milan to life, offering local insight and gossip whilst pointing out things such as the Sforzesco Castle, the Duomo, the fashion district, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

She pointed out little things that we would blindly have ignored, and told us about how the city has changed over the years (and more recently, due to coronavirus) – little tidbits that really made the city feel more alive and personal. One of my highlights from my time with Annamaria was when she treated us to a typical Milanese coffee inside of the beautiful Camparino, where we shared anecdotes from our lives and gazed at the beautiful architecture  and tile-work around us.

We left knowing a lot more about the city and it’s rich history, tummies full of strong Italian coffee from the best bar in Lombardi, and several handpicked brochures that Annamaria presented us. After the tour, I asked her if she could recommend any bookshops in the local area, and as it turns out, there was a helluva lot. It was from these suggestions that this book tour really came to life – without her local insight, we would absolutely have missed out on some of the gems that really shaped our trip. And so for that, thank you Annamaria – this post wouldn’t exist without you.

KATHAY

I think that Kathay has to be the best place to start a bookshop tour – and not just because it is genuinely my favourite place in the city (which also happens to be in my favourite area). Whilst not technically a ‘bookshop,’ Kathay is a kind of all-purpose store, featuring delicious culinary goods, intricately detailed homeware, and the most concentrated amount of tea-ware I have ever seen in my life. I felt exactly like a kid in a candy store, surrounded by gorgeous matcha bowls, beautiful displays of Chinese gaiwans on vintage green tables, and endless books on Korean cooking, Feng Shui, kombucha, reiki, and the art of tea – along with every other cool subject you could possibly learn about. I’m not being dramatic when I say that I could quite easily have spent the whole day there, wandering through the isles and running my fingers across the fine china. Never have I been so tempted to buy out a whole store before – and it’s definitely the first place to welcome yourself into the city.

TEMPO RITROV LIBRI

Meaning ‘Time Rediscovered Books,’ this adorable little libreria is filled with black and white framed photos of old film stars, magazines on African food and travel photography, and of course, a comprehensive collection of independent books by small publishers. They have the cutest collection of Children’s illustrated travel books, including intricately designed copies of Libro Giungla and Bella e la Bestia.

The owners of the bookshop believe that, ‘especially in Italy, the importance of reading should be affirmed and supported effectively every day. We therefore put ourselves at the service of the city together with the many other independent bookshops born in recent years, and we propose ourselves as a new and further garrison in which everyone can find time for themselves and others by isolating themselves, for a few moments, from a citizen of chaos.’

GIUNTI AL PUNTO

This is one of the many bookstores that I stumbled upon by accident – and boy, am I glad I did. Enticed by the free literary magazine, Il Libraio, drawn in by their many eye-catching discounts (because who doesn’t love a literary classic at 50% off?!), and fully reeled-in by their little knickknack sections full of explorer gear, pretty pens, and stunning notebooks, it was pretty obvious that I wouldn’t be spending less than an hour in the store. Check it out – you’ll soon understand it for yourself.

LIBRERIA DEL MONDO OFFESO

An independent Milanese bookshop, the Libreria del Mondo Offenso also doubles as a cultural centre promoting initiatives and events. The name of the place roughly translates to ‘The Bookshop of the Offended World’, from the book Conversazioni in Sicilia by Elio Vittorini, which is in essence a journey of discovery of an ‘offended world’, forcing one to take responsibility. It is a place to meet, discuss, and dream, in a haven filled with books, storytellers, and passion. They offer contemporary Italian fiction, theatre books, out-of-print novels, poetry, and gorgeous little travel books.

GINORI 1735

Despite the fact that I was stared at incredibly intensely by the shopkeepers the whole time I wandered through the shop (it was just like that infamous shopping scene in Pretty Woman), I still found myself transfixed by the beautiful pieces in front of us. Surrounded by the finest (and presumably most expensive) fine china I have ever seen, beautifully crafted and intricately painted, I felt as though I was in a Julia Gregson book. They are all absolutely beautiful and definitely something to go out of your way to see, even if to merely begin to plan your future living room – even through the intense eye contact from the staff.

The man behind the name, Carlo Ginori, began to manufacture porcelain pieces in 1735 in his workshop in Doccia, Tuscany. It soon spiralled into a prestigious company of luxury home decor objects, where it was run by the same family until 1896, when it was sold to Richard of Milan and the brand was created.

AMERICAN BOOKSTORE

Their website states, ‘Since 1981, the bookstore has been the perfect place for all lovers of American culture, thanks to the American Bookstore’s in-depth literary knowledge and American and English traditions’ – and whilst I’m not the biggest fan of these so-called American and English traditions, I did really like the store.

Their collection of books is pretty impressive, featuring more or less any genre that you could ever need (although as it is an ‘American bookstore’, I would maybe stay away from the cooking section!). Along with English books, they also offer antique prints, ancient maps, and ‘many objects and curiosities of the ancient American tradition – inside our bookshop you will be transported to a world you thought you knew, but which hides a very deep soul.’ They also sell Christmas decorations and American calendars which is pretty hip.

F. PETTINAROLI & FIGLI

Again, this is another one of those not-actually-a-bookshop bookshops – but I loved it so much that I simply had to include it! It’s the cutest little shop filled with matte vintage globes, thick leather-bound notebooks, intricate Victorian-esque ink-writing sets, shiny compasses, endless antique maps of the world, and chunky pieces of cream paper which were covered in sketches by men long gone. It’s a truly beautiful place. Apparently, it also houses the ‘widest’ selection of charts, vintage prints, antique maps of Italy and the world, as well as government charts and globes for enthusiasts and collectors. Pretty cool for a not-bookshop, eh?

MONDADORI BOOKSTORE

Mondadori has a super neat red theme running throughout the store, making it perfect for those much-desired Insta shots. It’s a big and open bookshop, and is filled with glossy modern books, super vibey music, the most passionate staff ever, and a large collection of travel, art, and architecture books. Highly recommend.

LA FELTRINELLI

La Feltrinelli is actually the first bookshop that I spent quality time in in Milan, and I liked it a lot. We stayed here for a couple hours and drank tea, slowly rummaging through their collection of photography books and black-and-white autobiographies, merely letting the world meander on by. Over the next few days, we discovered that there’s actually another Feltrinelli store in the area called La Feltrinelli Express, and a more niche one called La Feltrinelli Libri e Musica. My favourite definitely has to be that first one though, because it was both the first libreria that welcomed us, and also the place where I discovered Cleo Le-Tan (and her father)’s work for the first time. Of course, this one – like many others, was recommended to me by Annamaria. The woman really does know quality bookshops, I tell you.

LIBRERIA BOCCA

The oldest bookshop in Milan, I could have easily have spent a few hours here. The store has the coolest decorations, with postcards and bookmarks hanging down from the ceiling (which has a cool abstract painting on it), and stays true to it’s antique roots with it’s old-fashioned decor and overall feel of the place. The bookshelves start at the floor and wind their way up, brightening up the place with Taschen and Assouline. Located in the middle of the very commercialised Gallerie, this little homely store feels like a secret haven away from the hustle and bustle of the city. It’s filled with art, from the very outside in, and they specialise in books by the most exquisite, famous artists of the past to the more vibrant artists of our current generation, even shedding a light on those teeny little backstreet artists that thrive quietly. It’s a wonderful place to immerse yourself.

HOEPLI INTERNATIONAL BOOKSHOP

Because I couldn’t possibly miss out the largest bookshop in Italy! Housing over 500,000 titles of fiction and non-fiction and everything-in-between-fiction books, they also offer rare antique novels and books in their original languages. There are five floors in this bookish oasis, so there’s plenty of space (and volumes) to lose yourself in – I can promise you that you will come in here with the intention to merely browse and finger a couple copies, but will leave with every book you never knew you needed.

LIBRERIA ANTIGONE

I feel as though we didn’t find the gay bookshop, the gay bookshop found us. It was such a cool place to visit with my girlfriend – the energy was distinctly different to the outside, and it was so warm and welcoming, a real nice atmosphere. The whole aim of the store is to create a safe space free from prejudice for all minorities, sexualities, genders, and everything else; a bookshop built on respect and understanding. It’s a really lovely place to be, and they encourage curiosity and inclusion, with the kindest staff around.

Quoting from their website, ‘the Antigone bookshop wants to be a meeting point, a place for building relationships, intended as the only indispensable tool for the cultural and human growth of one another… aimed at maintaining a safe, pleasant environment [which is] useful, accessible by anyone.’ Now I don’t know about you, but that’s the place that I want to be.

Not only do they have some of the coolest books ever (and magazines, and essays, and educational texts), but I found myself irresistibly drawn to their exquisite magnet selection. And oh, the magnets! Made up of all styles and colours, depicting numerous environments and situations, I frankly wanted them all. Antigone, if you’re reading this, I wouldn’t complain  being sent one!

I never thought that I would find a bookshop dedicated wholly to the dissemination of LGBTQ+ and feminist culture and subcultures, but I am so glad that I did.

MILAN WOMEN’S LIBRARY

Although only recently established (in 1975), the Milan Women’s Library is such a cool place to visit. It’s a non-profit libreria that is both a bookshop and a meeting place, housing film screenings and even political discussions. They have a very comprehensive selection of feminist books, and similar to the Antigone, they are dedicated to the dissemination of multiple media subcultures – and in my personal opinion, there’s nothing quite as sweet as a bookshop that makes you think. The staff are all volunteers, and the place runs on pure love, respect, and passion – which if you think about it, is how every good bookshop should be.

WHERE TO STAY

At night, we stayed at the marvellous Babila Hostel and Bistro. Built in 1895, this former Catholic school is now one of the coolest places to hang out in the heart of the city.

It was such a nice place to spend the evenings, with their big clean kitchen, cosy communal room where we could kick back on the sofas and watch Netflix, and their absolutely beautiful veranda where we could watch the sun set over the city – but, fitting with the theme of the post, the highlight has to be the sheer amount of books they had.

Every corner had a shelf stacked with both antique manuscripts and shiny new novellas, where you could either take one off to the bedroom to read, or swap one of your own loved books for someone else’s loved book. They had travel guides, autobiographies, fictional novels, books on aliens – what else could you possibly need?

Mix this with their incredibly comfortably beds, the complimentary drinks you get on arrival, cool board games and boxes of Jenga, and the pool tables, and you have a place that I probably could have spent a few weeks. They do the most delicious mocktails and breakfasts, too – and all in all, I’m definitely glad I stayed here. I may have had my toothpaste and key stolen, but hey, you win some, you lose some, right?

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librería perez galdos

I’m going to start off the list strong with Librería Perez Galdos – quite possibly one of my favourite spaces in the whole city. Like any good bookstore should be, it features old novels and vintage National Geographics haphazardly stacked to the ceiling, and it honestly feels like an Ollivander’s but for, well, books. The owner is incredibly lovely, and helped me with my Spanish when I refused to indulge my first language. It’s pretty much how I want my future house library to be, as it all comes together to feel like a slightly enchanted space – like the sort you’d read about in a book (gingerbread and witches ensued). It’s honestly just pure perfection, and I adore it.

desperate literature

Desperate Literature looks entirely out of place on the street of which it is situated. Amongst high-class fashion boutiques and name brand labels, you’ll stumble upon what is essentially just this little cave of books. There are wooden signs dotted around the space with bookish quotes painted upon them, and handwritten notes are placed in front of books the staff suggest. You could easily whittle away the days sat back on a chair, listening to the indie music on the speakers, either indulging yourself with a gorgeous novel or tapping away at their typewriter. It’s all lit by some dilapidated lamps, and amongst the cul-de-sac of novels it’s way too easy to lose yourself.

librería san ginés

This place was unlike anything I’d ever seen before – a tiny shed attached to an old church, featuring what was pretty much just a large pasting table stacked with books. The whole thing is apparently nearly 400 years old, and honestly when you see it you won’t doubt it. The stalls spill out onto the street, winding along the church wall, with old postcards decorating the decks. A mixture of rock and roll and jazz music plays, and each time I visited the man running it would be leaning against a chair or a wall, mumbling along as a fat cigar dangled from his lips. It’s a bit of a discombobulating time warp, but I can guarantee you’ll love the whole thing.

librería mujeres

Apparently, in 1978 rights for women were few and far between in this contemporary capital. There were massive problems with free speech, divorce, and abortion rights, and on the whole it was just an absolute mess. That’s where the founders of this gorgeous little bookstore came in – they started up this bookstore to fill it with empowering female literature, bunting, an abundance of clocks, and old lamps. The decorations and style of the store represent the era flawlessly, and the whole place is just gorgeous, empowering, and honestly a little overwhelming. Good luck trying to hold back a reaction as you walk in.

librería desnivel

Librería Desnivel definitely tripped me out. It’s absolutely tiny from the outside, but when you walk in through the stained glass doors (with ice picks as the handles no less), it opens up to this massive maze of books. The floorboards creak as you wander the halls, and the endless rows of books dictate foreign lands and guides on mountaineering and exploring. I didn’t realise that a bookstore could be so perfect, but as I walked through it I quickly realised that it’s a real Travellers’ haven. The walls are even signed with quotes from famous explorers! There’s campfire music playing in the background, and everywhere you look is dowsed in maps and autobiographies by beloved adventurers. It’s the most inspiring bookstore I’ve ever visited, and I can’t deny that I now own a ridiculous amount of Levison Wood novels (I even interviewed him!).

the cómic co

Located in quite possibly the prettiest neighbourhood in the whole of Madrid (It’s Malasaña, before you ask), the cómic co is the most visually contemporary out of all these stores. Each wall is either pristine white plaster or exposed orange brick, with books layered across the front of them. They sell quirky (and sometimes eccentric) illustrated books and comics, resulting in me spending a ridiculous amount of time just pawing at the pages as the temptation of using up all my wages right there was exceedingly strong. The staff are always really lovely, and it seems that they all live for the casual banter in the store. It’s like the Spanish twin to the classic science fiction store Forbidden Planet, although less musty.

Honourable mentions:

Arrebato Libros – An adorable store featuring antique novels and yellowbacks – some of which still containing cute little notes from their owners back in the 1800s. A gorgeous mess of a place, it’s strangely enticing.

Pasajes Librería – Featuring a real abundance of books in a relatively small space, you could spend hours upon hours rummaging through their products. One of the best things is that they offer a wide selection of multi-lingual books, something of which a large majority of Madrid bookstores actually lack.

Librería Letras – So many of these books are on sale, it really did not help my attempts at budgeting. The owner is exceedingly helpful when you’re as indecisive as I am, and some of the books are quite noir and super interesting. The majority of books I bought from my trip were purchased from here – so if you have a weight limit for your suitcase, you may want to be careful.

El Olor de la Lluvia – Translated to “the smell of rain,” this place is quaint and cute and I love it. It features a little reading nook and rows upon rows of self-help books, rendering it the perfect place to take time out and fix yourself.

Madrid is quite possibly the most vibrant, exuberant place I’ve ever had the pleasure of living, and I already miss traipsing daily around the bookstores. I met some deeply lovely people between the towers of books, and I think that if you were to search for the very heart of the capital, you would find yourself in one of these librerías. These cosy little nooks really capture the whole essence of Madrid life – something we call “comodidad.” If you want to feel like you’ve finally come home, you’ve got to fall in love with the hidden bookstores of Madrid. As a warning though: when you leave, the estrangement will break your heart.

Have you guys been to any of these bookstores, or have any recommendations for stores I should check out? If so, let me know in the comments below!

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