Three years ago, I actually moved to Madrid for a short while – and I haven’t stopped thinking about it since. I’ve used this time in Wales’ third lockdown to come up with the perfect two-week itinerary for a Spanish road trip. You’re welcome.

DAY ONE – ARRIVE IN VALENCIA

I thought that it would be fun to begin this central Spain road trip a little to the southeast, so that you can work your way west and into the heart of Spain. To begin with, Valencia – a place that is all about sunsets and mountains and 8pm trips to the beach.

In the morning, visit a prehistoric cave in Benidoleig called Cueva de las Calaveras. It is super cool and reminds me a little of Dan-yr-Ogof. Spend perhaps an hour there before driving to El Castillo de Guadalest to see gorgeous rock formations and an unbelievably bright teal reservoir. The surroundings are a mix of Machu Picchu and the Grand Canyons, with some classic Bali-esque fields added for the fun of it – I can promise, it’s one of the most beautiful things you’ve ever seen.

Whilst you’re there, you should eat at El Mirador for an incredible view of the town, along with delicious food and the friendliest staff ever. This is the first place of many where my Spanish dad told me, ‘Amy, live life slowly, don’t rush. Savour each – cómo se dice? – bite.’

DAY TWO – DÉNIA

Just after the sun has risen, you should head to Las Fuentes del Algar, a miniature paradise. It features very blue, very clear, very cold water, and a beautiful waterfall. The rock formations surrounding you are utterly breathtaking, and the walk through the greenery to the Algar is sure to leave you entranced.

Dénia is a beautiful port city with a stunning castle, gorgeous food, and delicious wine. This is the sort of place where you should spend the afternoon exploring before settling down for food amongst loud evening fiestas, passing through their cool cave tunnel to the restaurants to try sepia, fish heads, and baby squid. There’s a really interesting market here which flourishes at night, and with the distant mountains lit by the moon, it is truly beautiful.

DAY three – ALTEA AND PILES

Altea is one of those fairytale towns which are completely devoid of tourists and painted a beautiful canvas of clean white and bright blue. The old town is my favourite place here, with the cute little shops and the stone buildings.

After walking through the medieval town square and meandering along the very long promenade, head to Piles for a gorgeous place to kick back and relax. Piles is super special because one of the watchtowers to defend Valencia against north-African forces was built here in 1577 – it’s a place that hasn’t changed, even though history has.

DAY FOUR – OLIVA AND MADRID

Spend the morning at Oliva to experience their wonderful market – where you will find yourself not-so-subtly getting ripped off until you speak to the vendors in Spanish. Grab some food at one of their many delicious restaurants and cafes, and have one last wander around the sleepy Spanish town. In the late afternoon, begin the long drive to Madrid.

Ah, Madrid. My favourite Spanish city, my home for three whole months… I miss it everyday. I was a bit skeptical about spending such a long time in Madrid at first because I didn’t think it would have a whole lot to it, but when I visited the bookstores and tried the food and spent the evenings with my adoptive Spanish family, I couldn’t help but love it. One thing to remember – when the shops close, the Real Madrid comes out.

DAY FIVE – MADRID

Even after months of living in Madrid, I still hadn’t seen it all. It’s the sort of place that you need to spend years in to properly figure out, but for the purpose of this guide, I’m going to give you just a few days.

There are so many things to see in Madrid, with my absolute favourites being:

• The Royal Archeological Museum
• The Royal Palace
• Templo de Debod
• Reina Sofia
• Malasaña
• Ayuntamiento de Madrid
• Edificio Metropolis
• Museo Nacional del Prado
• The millions of outdoor cinemas that play wonderful films in the summer

DAY SIX – VISIT LOCAL TOWNS

Now we can get into the real heart of Spain. This day should be slower paced and more laid back due to the fact that you would have had a pretty hectic past week. Who could blame you if it’d taken it out of you?

Móstoles and Alcorcón are two lovely little towns in Madrid, and are probably my favourite local places to visit. I attended my first ever big Spanish family dinner in the latter, and went for a late-night photography session to see the blood moon in the former. They’re both pretty special.

DAY seven – Alcalá de henares

During my visit to Alcalá de Henares, an old local lady came up to me outside a church and began rattling off Spanish at Godspeed. In my broken Spanish I was like hey, could you please speak slow, I don’t understand everything you’re saying and she merely shot me a look, said no, and continued on with her ramble. I didn’t quite get what she was saying, but I got the gist that I should walk to the castle ruins and visit the local park, which were both really cool experiences that I highly recommend. It’s a really interesting place with very interesting people, and some of things that you absolutely must see during your visit are:

• Plaza de Cervantes
• Laredo palace
• Casa de Hippolytus
• Archbishop’s Palace of Alcalá de Henares
• Monumento a Manuel Azaña
• Castle of Alcalá la Vieja

day eight – Guadalajara

I cannot express my love for Guadalajara – but I know that the main reason why I loved it so much was because it was super freaky. It was so deserted, I felt like I’d stumbled straight into Chernobyl. Shutters closed. Cafes closed. The whole town, completely dead and decrepit.

Guadalajara seems to be built like an old western movie, but with a distant hum of electricity. I’m sure I even had a ball of tumbleweed roll past me. As the day grew later, eventually people began to leave the houses, and I was able to practise my Spanish with people that knew where Birmingham was but not Wales.

Guadalajara is one place that you have to visit, even if it’s just because of how eccentric it is. It’s really weird, and I love it for it. All you should do today is walk around, take it in, and when old men profess their love for you, blow a few kisses back.

day nine – Segovia

The views on the way to Segovia are truly breathtaking, and that’s only the beginning. When you walk into the city you’ll be greeted by a rich architectural legacy, with medieval walls, Romanesque churches, and an iconic ancient Roman aqueduct which has more than 160 arches. Plaza Azoguejo is in the heart of Segovia and offers gorgeous food, beautiful views of the city, and adorable little bookstores. When I visited, the weather was absolutely horrendous so the place was almost completely desolate, but the sporadic downpour and thunder only made it more intense.

day ten – San Lorenzo el Escorial

I went to this wonderful monastery in the mountains of El Escorial and holy cow, it was the most beautiful place in the world. The concentration of basilicas and tombs and marble had me constantly picking my jaw back up off the ground, and I fully couldn’t comprehend why  people hype up the Sistine chapel so much when this place exists.

They have an incredible little square with pop-up bookstores and events, and it’s such a strong local vibe that I have no doubt you’ll be the only outsider there. One of the most beautiful views here has to be from inside the monastery in a marble sala which overlooks hedge mazes framed by chapel spires and mountain ranges. It’s incredible.

day eleven – Toledo

When I first arrived in Toledo I could definitely see why everyone made such a fuss about it. As you exit the bus station you’re welcomed into this new world of ruined monasteries and crumbling castles and antiquated stone houses. I hitchhiked for the first time on the way back from the Mirador del Valle when I was too lazy from the heat and the trek, and the people who picked me up couldn’t stop talking about what there was to see in the city. Jewish quarters, Christian quarters, Muslim quarters – it’s the sort of place where you will often find yourself lost amongst the stonework, alone in history apart from lone pigeons cooing overhead.

It was quite possibly the most beautiful place that I had seen in central Spain, and the fact that it was so big and so empty and so much resembling a medieval storybook about witches and gingerbread men made it a million times better. I don’t know why so many of these towns are deserted – but avoiding the tourists really does make it much more special.

day twelve – Aranjuez and manzanares el real

Aranjuez is another one of those places where everything just feels a little… off. You walk into the city on an old dust road, where either side of you are half-knocked-down buildings and little traditional sand-coloured houses. You walk around the corner, and then bam, there’s this modest yet incredibly stunning pink, French-influenced Royal Palace, yet again devoid of all life. I went in, and for a good while it was just me and the palace, alone.

After, I wandered the streets and parks, passing locals washing in the outdoor fountains and drinking at little bars. I loved the simplicity and sheer aged beauty of it all, and think that it really is another one of those places that you simply cannot afford to miss. The Jardín de la Isla and the Casa del Labrador are two of the most beautiful places in the world.

Then you should head to Manzanares el Real to spend the rest of the day in a cute little Spanish town that smells of freshly baked bread and coffee. They have this really cool castle with incredible views of the town, and the locals are probably some of the nicest people ever. A great way to end the day.

day thirteen – Chinchón and cercedilla

Chinchón is a quaint old town with, surprisingly enough, more empty streets. The whole place feels a little weird with the lack of people, but the second you walk into a bar at 1pm you’ll be greeted by the whole town and their landlords. This makes sense as Chinchón is the home of the sweet anise liquor which is macerated for half day in wine and distilled in copper stills.

The best part about the town is the medieval Plaza Mayor, surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, and gorgeous buildings with green wooden balconies. Wander through the traditional hilltop houses, stay for an event, and try a drink or two. You’re not going to be leaving any time soon.

After a day in Chinchón you should start the drive back to Madrid – but before you do, stop off for a drink in Cercedilla. It’s a weird mountain town that smells a little like nail varnish, but it has a certain charm to it. There are some really pretty churches and museums, and it’s in the perfect location to go for a bike ride or a rock climb. It’s great.

day fourteen – madrid

Finally, finish it back up in your favourite city, Madrid. Take time to revel in the epic things you’ve seen, and go for your last walk along Gran Vía. And breatheeeee.

This post deserves a massive thank you to my au pair family in Madrid, who took care of me for months and put up with me doing things such as eating all of my cereal in a day, baking spicy Welsh cakes, and refusing to get in the ocean. Thank you for letting me into your home and for allowing me to be part of a strong, loving, Spanish family. You’re all great, and I can’t wait to see you all again in the future 🙂

And so, please let me know in the comments when you use this itinerary, and let me know if you see anything that I have somehow missed out!

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