One spare afternoon, one of the sons suggested that we spend a day or two exploring the local town of Susa. I asked him what exactly there was to do in the area, to which he responded, “Nothing. It is just, cómo se dice? Pretty.” I was sold.

As it happens, this is the first ever blog travel guide to Susa – and, not entirely by default, the best. Divertirsi!

The Susa Valley is an absolutely beautiful slice of Italy, situated between Turin and France. It has a long history spanning back thousands of years, with the town of Susa having originally been established by the Celts. From there, it became a voluntary part of the Roman Empire, and then an important political hub in the Middle and Modern ages. 

Susa, also known as ‘the oldest of Alpine towns’, has been used for centuries as a pilgrimage route for Catholics, merchants, soldiers, and artists on their way to the Holy Land. In 1167, the Holy Roman Empress Beatrice escaped from Pontremoli to hide away in Susa, but when her husband (Holy Roman Emperor Frederick) found her disguised as a horse servant, he decided to pillage the town. Apparently, she quite enjoyed that.

All in all, this little Italian gem has seen a lot of history, leaving a helluva lot to be explored.

ARCO D’AUGUSTO

The Arch of Augustus was built in 9BC to mark the transition of power between Marcus Cottius (king of the Celtic and Ligurian inhabitants of the Cottian alps) and the Roman Emperor Augustus Caesar. It is one of the oldest surviving Roman arches in the world.

This is one of my absolute favourite places to visit in the town, as not only is it an important remnant of history, but it is also surrounded by the most beautiful views: gorgeous old stone houses, Roman ruins, and the rolling green hills of Piemonte. I’d recommend beginning the trip with a picnic right beneath this arch, letting thousands of years of human history unwind around you.

VÍA AL CASTELLO

Have you ever fancied taking a stroll through a well-preserved Roman passage? If so, then boy, is this the place for you! As you wander through the passage, you will be engulfed by intricate stone walls that have oftentimes been depicted in old Roman paintings, leading to amphitheatres, cathedrals, and ruins – and of course, as the name suggests, a neat little castle.

ZUCCHERO DI CANNA

After all that walking and wandering, you’re probably going to be in need of a sugar boost. What better way to do that than with a cone of wonderful Italian gelato? Frankly, this is my favourite gelateria in the town, partly due to the fact that they have a million flavours, partly because they have endless vegan options, and partly because of the incredible views. And I mean, incredible views.

My suggestion is that you shovel some blackberry, chocolate, coconut, lemon, and rice ice-cream and sorbets into a cone, and then simply sit back in the warm Italian sun and stare out at the pristine white chapel and the golden mountains around you. Such bliss.

VISIT A CHURCH

Susa, whilst relatively small for a town, has a real abundance of religious buildings. From gothic cathedrals to clean white chapels to Romanesque churches depicting very skinny Jesus’, there are so many options for the pious. Some of my personal favourites are:

⁃ Chiesa di San Carlo, located in the foothills of the Piemonte mountains, it has the best atmosphere out of all churches in the world (probably).

⁃ San Saturnino Church, a very pretty and yet timid little church.

⁃ Bridge Church, the gorgeous pristine church located opposite the gelateria, also happens to be attached to the museum of religious art.

⁃ Santa Maria Maggiore Church, pretty neat, pretty central.

MUSEO DIOCESANO DI ARTE SACRA

Do you recall the museum of religious art I mentioned, oh, fifteen seconds ago? As it happens, it’s a super interesting place to visit, and for children under 18, residents of the Valley, disabled people, and journalists, entrance is free!

(The entrance fee for the average layman is €6, and for those ages 18-25 or over 65, or who are disabled carers, officers, or soldiers on duty, it’s €3).

The museum houses the stone remains of a Middle Age walkway, and you can whittle away the hottest hours of the day staring at the numerous marble crosses, wooden statues, and stained glass windows. The staff members are all super helpful and lovely, and when I visited, they gave me a free pack of Halls throat sweets ‘because of the pandemic’. All in all, it’s a pretty neat place to visit.

PORTA SAVOIA

Nestled between two gorgeous Piazzas – the Piazza Savoia and the Piazza San Giusto – this porta is one of the main doors into the historic centre of the town. It is a beautiful reminder of Susa’s enchanting Roman past – and it’s right by some of the best cafes in the area.

AUGUSTUS PARK

Not too far from the Arco D’Augusto is the prettiest little park, where you’ll find yourself surrounded by a classic Susa green-and-blue mountainous backdrop, tall water fountains, rock-hard statues, and precarious pastel houses clinging to the edge of cliffs (yes, it is what you’re thinking, it looks exactly like in The Emperor’s New Groove). If you’re able to clamber up to the benches near the arch, you get the best view of the town – all terracotta houses and Gothic cathedral spires.

GO SHOPPING

You’re in Italy, after all! Walking through the centre of the town with its thin, tight streets, orange and yellow houses, and mountains at either end, is a pretty unique experience. Not to mention the fact that there are some really cute bookstores in the area – one of which introduced me to the wonderful photographer Antonio Gesmundo for the first time. There are shops for shoes, shops for pasta, shops for magazines, shops for souvenirs – and it’s all here, right in the Susa Valley.

WALK ALONG THE RIVER

The clear, shallow waters of the Dora Riparia, framed by antiquated houses with metal balconies and Roman fountains, is arguably one of the most iconic sights of the town. Walking along the river with an espresso in one hand and a pastry in the other is such a bucket list experience – but be aware that if you go slightly too far, you’ll find yourself in France.

And so, that concludes the first blog travel guide to Susa, Italy, published on this here blog! (Man, do you remember the first ever Bibliophile Guide to Basel, also published here? You’re definitely on the right blog for off-the-beaten-track travel, eh?)

Let me know in the comments below if you would like to visit Susa, and if so, what you think you’ll love most!

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