THE COMPLETE FOOD GUIDE TO ISTANBUL, TURKEY

As y’all may or not know, three months ago I finally bit the bullet and moved to Istanbul, Turkey. Before renting out my neat little apartment in Kadıköy I’d never even stepped foot on Istanbulian soil, so I was pretty relieved to find that the city is one of the prettiest, warmest, and most exciting places that I’d ever been to.

Not just that, but Istanbul truly is a foodie haven – I don’t know how they do it, but every single morsel produced in the city is incredibly delicious.

And so, without further ado, I will share with you my complete food guide to Istanbul, Turkey. Of course, a lot of these places are located in Kadıköy – because a girl’s allowed to have favourites, right?

Boğaziçi Kuruyemiş Baharat

I’m going to start off this post with a classic – because if there’s one thing that Turkish cuisine is known for, it’s sweet, dried fruits. You’ll find these almost everywhere: served at celebrations, almost always with a slightly astringent cup of black tea, oftentimes following a number of more savoury and salty dishes.

As such, if you’re looking for the best dried fruit and pork-free gelatine sweets in the whole of Turkey, I cannot recommend anywhere better than this place. Usually, I go here twice a week to placate my sweet tooth and stock up on seemingly endless supplies of dried figs, plums, sultan grapes, and satsuma tangerines. Believe me, they are divine.

Çamlık, Selçuklu Cd. no:24/d, 34000 Pendik

Altan Şekerleme

As you can imagine, I have consumed almost an unholy amount of Turkish delight since arriving in Istanbul – and without a doubt, this place comes up top. It has been running for four generations and is currently managed by a kindly chap called Hakan Altanoğlu, who still works with secret recipes passed down from his father, from his father’s father, and so forth.

My advice? Try the rose delight. It feels like falling in love.

‪Demirtaş Mh. Kıble Çeşme Cad, Kantarcılar Cd. No:68, 34134 Fatih

Perla Çikolata

This is the first chocolate shop that I ever explored in the city and I am still incredibly fond of it. My Turkish speaking level is very weak so I always need to partake in a game of charades with the owner – but honestly, that usually ends up with me receiving a few free chocolates for my effort. The chocolate here is so delicious that I went three times within my first two days in the city, and now each time I return, I stock up on what I assume is an abundance of lactose-free chocolates but which only usually last me a few hours, at most.

All in all, it’s a pretty sweet place to indulge in everything cocoa-related.

Haseki Sultan, Hekimoğlu Alipaşa Cd No:16, 34096 Fatih

Melodi Çikolata

Not to be an absolute chocolate fiend, but this is another amazing place in the city where you can purchase a whole array of chocolate. There’s a couple branches so it feels less personal than the above, but the quality of chocolate is still so fine that I had to mention it.

My favourite is the dark chocolate-covered raisins – you can thank me later.

Caferağa, Güneşli Bahçe Sok No:17, 34710 Kadıköy

Lezzet duragi

This place is so insanely good, it honestly makes me wonder if I’d ever even eaten cheese before. Everything is always so fresh and full of flavour, and each time I return, I seem to try numerous new cheeses that I didn’t even know existed. As you can imagine, this is another place that I somehow find myself at almost all the time. Lactose intolerance, who?

Osmanağa, 12, Nüzhet Efendi Sk., 34714 Kadıköy

bungee dumpling

Honestly, my mouth is watering just thinking about this place. Without a doubt, Bungee Dumpling has the best vegetarian dumplings in the whole city – and they are so cheap, too!

One of my favourite things to do in Istanbul is simply sit in this shop’s window seat, order rounds after rounds of dumplings, and watch the world go by. It brings me peace and warmth.

Caferağa, Zuhal Sk. No:1/B, 34710 Kadıköy

Mr dumpling

Okay, guilty, I have another favourite dumpling place. I don’t know why or how, but dumplings here are so bloody good that I tend to order way too much food here almost every Friday.

Here, you can try dumplings from all around the world, and there are plenty of vegan options. This is where I tried the traditional Turkish dumplings for the first time, and I’m ashamed to say that I have since turned into an addict. Manti for the win!

Osmanağa, Halitağa Cd. No:25, 34714 Kadıköy

yüce büfe

For those looking for the best fresh pomegranate juice in the whole of Turkey, I’ve got you covered! This little street stall is very nondescript and could easily be missed – but luckily, you now know where to look. Tell the guys that I say hi.

Osmanağa, Gençlik Sokak & Halitağa Caddesi, 34714 Kadıköy

Antepli Beraat Tatlı Ve Çiğ Köfte Salonu

Without a doubt, this place serves the nicest baklava that I’ve ever had in my entire life (and I used to live close to a baklava bakery, so that’s really saying something).

The owner here is super lovely and will play cards with you when there’s no one else in the shop; I strongly believe that you won’t find a better baklava, tea, and atmosphere combination in the world. I think that it must be one of life’s finest pleasures to be able to sit here, eating sweet-nutty-malty baklava, sipping tea which has a balancing slight bitterness to it, sitting in the shade, and petting every dog that goes by. Ahh, bliss.

Rasimpaşa, Karakolhane Cd. No:45, 34716 Kadıköy

Aslım fırın. Ekmek fırını

If there’s something that you truly need to indulge in Istanbul, it’s fresh simit. Basically, simit is a circular bread which is usually decorated with an abundance of sesame seeds, and has a crunchy outside and a soft inside. It feels a little like being caressed by a lover.

Of course, simit is the baked good of Istanbul, and it’s something that I eat every single day without fail. Do you know how much you need to love something to eat it every single day? Well let me tell you, it’s a bloody lot.

And this bread shop here serves the absolute best simit in the whole of Istanbul – believe me, I’ve tried them all.

Rasimpaşa, İzzettin Sk. No:113, 34716 Kadıköy

gozde sarkuteri

Because what would an article about Istanbul’s best food be without touching upon the Kadıköy Pazarı (market)? This is the area that locals go to buy the freshest, cheapest, and tastiest ingredients, and is a real foodie haven.

Within this foodie haven is Gozde Sarkuteri, a store which the Financial Times actually referred to as “one of the best 50 stores in the world”. It’s basically a bustling little deli filled with every single one of your produce needs, and is the place to go to buy kaymak: buffalo clotted cream. Trust me, you need to try it.

Güneşli Bahçe Sok. No:8 Kadıköy Balıkçılar Çarşısı, 34710 Kadıköy

Koz

Koz is the absolute best place for mulberries. You’re probably thinking, Amy, that’s so niche, why would you include a place just because you like the mulberries?

Well let me answer you this: have you ever tried mulberries from Koz? No? Then you have no idea how life-altering these little sweet bursts of joy can be.

Long story short: you need to go here.

palmiye gurme

I’ll be honest, Palmiye Gurme is my tea dealer in the city. I know, I know, snitches get stitches and all that, but I just couldn’t help it.

Here, you will find a type of Ceylon black tea which is full, rich, malty, and a little sweet, and is perfect to go alongside your morning simit and kaymak. Believe me, I’ve been doing it for months.

Osmanağa, Güneşli Bahçe Sok No: 9, 34710 Kadıköy

veganarsist

If you’ve been trying to scout out the best raw vegan brownies and baklava (which is a very specific hunt but I respect it) then this is your place!

I’ll be honest and admit that I’ve never actually stepped foot in this store – I just tend to order sweet treats and kombucha from them online every time I’m at home writing and the dried fruit isn’t quite cutting it for me. They never ask questions like ‘but isn’t this your fourteenth time ordering from us today?’ and I love them for that.

Osmanağa, Canan Sk. 20/A, 34714 Kadıköy

moda de nata

Pastel de nata is a type of Portuguese egg custard tart pastry which is often decorated with cinnamon, and which quickly becomes an addiction once you’ve scored your first blow.

The chef at Moda de Nata is actually from Portugal, meaning that you get to try the real thing whilst within the bustling cultural hub of Kadıköy. I really didn’t think that I’d find a favourite place for vegan Portuguese tarts here, but there you have it.

Moda da Nata, Caferağa, Dr. İhsan Ünlüer Sk. no:14/A, 34710 Kadıköy

Füj

One of my favourite breakfast and brunch spots in the city is Füj. They have amazing potato omelettes, salads, toasts, cakes… and their tea is served in the prettiest little diamond-esque glasses. Plus, every now and then the staff will whip out some instruments and have a little jam session in the corner, and I have to respect them for that.

Rasimpaşa mah, Uzun Hafız Sk. 96A, 34716 Kadıköy

brox

Okay, I know that it’s bordering on ridiculous to feature a place just because it has the best garlic chips that I’ve ever had, but gosh dang, this is my blog and I’m going to do it.

I can’t even describe how deliciously perfect their garlic fries are – I’ve been known to pop in even after stuffing myself on a full meal somewhere else.

BroX is my weird little guilty pleasure – I don’t know what sort of witchcraft they put into their fries, but I tend think about them at least once a day. And I want you to experience that, too.

Caferağa, Kadife Sk. No:39, 34710 Kadıköy

CM noodle

I am not being dramatic when I say that I searched though MILLIONS of different noodle places in the city (okay, maybe I am), but have come to the conclusion that this is the best. The prawn noodles are something truly divine – and because their location is right amongst all of the pubs, you get free entertainment as you watch the drunkards stagger home.

Caferağa, Arayıcıbaşı Sk. No:20, 34710 Kadıköy

Tarihi Eminönü Balık Ekmek

The clue is in the name: this place specialises in balik ekmek. It is the cheapest place that I have found this exquisite fish sandwich, and the guys that work here are always so bloody lovely. They salt the fish, add a squirt of lemon, and when you tell them how incredible it is, they slap you heartily on the back. What more could you want?

Kalyatai Barbaros, Rüstem Paşa Mahallesi, 34116, 34110 Fatih

pokemate

This is one of the more expensive options in this guide (still only coming in at around $10 for a full meal), but believe me when I say that it is worth every penny. The chunks of raw, marinated fish amongst bowlfuls of vegetables feels incredibly healthy, and helps me detox a tad from the sheer amount of chocolate and kaymak that I consume on a daily basis. I didn’t expect to find a Hawaiian restaurant here, but I am so glad that I did.

Teşvikiye Mahallesi, Poyracik Sk No:10/A, 34365 Şişli

Cafe guide

Obviously, working as a writer, I know an almost unhealthy amount of good cafes in the city. I’ll be honest: I mainly base a good cafe on three things: good tea, good vibes, and good wifi.

You have been forewarned: now please go ahead in peace.

otaku cafe

This is one of my favourite cafes both because of the fact that it is so different from the rest in this post (namely, there’s anime paraphernalia everywhere!) but also because it’s the only place I have found that serves good genmaicha.

Whilst Turkish tea truly is something sent down from the Gods, genmaicha is a humble green tea with rice which was created by a farmer when he noticed that his people were suffering.

As such, one of my favourite things to do is sit here with a steaming cup of genmaicha, write about my woes, and make cooey noises at the super cute cat which often makes itself at home in the half-open sitting area where the cool people (e.g. yours truly) sit.

Caferağa, Dr. Esat Işık Cd. No:40, 34710 Kadıköy

Küff cafe

This was the first cafe that I ever drank tea at in the city, and it quickly became one of my favourites. It’s basically a funky little warehouse filled with books and plants and snazzy music. Plus, good tea.

Apparently, only the most fashionable, hippest people in the world go here – but unfortunately, I did not become hip by proximity. But perhaps you will..?

Osmanağa, Ali Suavi Sk. No:9/B, 34714 Kadıköy

Moda kitap

This is just the cutest darnedest cafe-cum-bookshop in Moda, and taught me everything that I needed to know about Ahmed Nedim, Turkey’s most esteemed poet.

Plus, there’s a neat little space where you can sit overlooking the street, watch the world go by, and ignore the fact that you have many deadlines fast approaching that you really need to work on. Instead, lose yourself in the world of Ahmed Nedim.

Osmanağa, Kazasker Sk. No:12, 34714 Kadıköy

Annapurna Cheesecake

I found Annapurna in the most unexpected of ways: I was scouring my local area on the search for a delicious vegan gluten-free and sugar-free cheesecake (I’d been overindulging a lot by that point), and would you believe it, this place had exactly that.

Plus, they also have a good selection of teas and serve this delicious cold basil drink that will forever live in the pit of my soul.

Rasimpaşa, Karakolhane Cd. No:50, 34716 Kadıköy

cafe MU

No lie, I think that I’ve written some of my best pieces in this cafe. It has the nicest vibes, delicious tea, and vegan banana bread that I might have started obsessing over a little bit.

Every now and then, you’ll find a cat curled up on the seats – I find that if you move it closer to you veeery slowly, it will eventually sit quite happily in your lap as you write.

They also serve really fancy coffee which smells amazing, but as I’ve never tried it (I’m not adult enough for coffee), I can’t vouch for it – perhaps you can go and fill me in?

Rasimpaşa, Karakolhane Cd. 46/A, 34716 Kadıköy

wanderlust Yeldeğirmeni

This cafe has the cutest outdoor seating area that I’ve ever seen – it’s like stepping into a jungle. There’s green stuff everywhere, and the tea is pretty bloody good. This cafe is a little more expensive to drink at than the others, but I think that the funky decor really makes up for it.

Rasimpaşa, Karakolhane Cd. No:55/A, 34716 Kadıköy

benazio coffee

Despite what the name might suggest, Benazio also serves really good tea and the most amazing chocolate smoothie in the whole world. Weekends here are my favourite: simply sitting back with a table full of Turkish breakfast plates, warm blood-coloured tea, and that semi-sleepy morning conversation is one of the most rejuvenating things for the soul.

Rasimpaşa mah, Karakolhane Cd. no:48/A, 34716 Kadıköy

Cafe stellar

Located on my favourite street in the whole word (I swear, it’s not just because it has the cutest street dog residents), Cafe Stellar has good vibes and good music, and the staff members are all so lovely.

Plus, they have the nicest tea glasses out of all of the cafes mentioned (they’re just so thicc), and it’s so cosy, it’s easy to consider this place almost as a second home.

Rasimpaşa, Uzun Hafız Sk. No:103, 34716, 34716 Kadıköy

coffee manifesto

Honestly, this place feels a little more corporate than the others, but if you’re looking for somewhere you can write for hours without anyone talking to you, then this is probably the best place. It is a chain, albeit small, and there are several locations – I chose this one as it almost always has a gorgeous ginger cat stretching across the seats. Go on, drink tea and pet the cat!

Caferağa, Güneşli Bahçe Sok No:40A, 34710 Kadıköy

Made by Mari

And finally, I end with my favourite chocolatier in the whole world. Over the past few months, the owners and I have become quite good friends, and I am so grateful to have accidentally stumbled upon this humble shop.

One of my absolute favourite things to do in the city is sit outside with one of the local cats, drink the best hot chocolate in existence, and learn more about the heavenly world of cocoa.

In fact, I wrote a whole post about this chocolate shop, where I interview Mari and her husband, Murat, and share trade secrets. You should give it a read: I think it’s one of the best pieces on this blog.

Rasimpaşa, Rasimpaşa Mah. Uzun Hafız Sk, Yeldeğirmeni Sk. No: 73/A, 34716 Kadıköy

Culinary backstreets

To be completely frank with you, my first few months in Istanbul would have been nothing without Culinary Backstreets. When I first arrived, I was dazed and confused and a little overwhelmed. But then I met Gonça, the coolest food tour guide that I’ve ever had, and everything changed.

When I first met Gonça, I immediately loved how fun and charismatic she was. When she told stories, her eyes lit up, and she has a way of explaining things which really makes you stop and listen. Over the course of a day, she took us to the most delicious spots in the whole city, filled us in on its histories and anecdotes, and introduced us to shop keepers that I would continue to build relationships with throughout my stay.

Frankly, Gonça was incredible.

Not only did she teach me about which areas to avoid and where to go instead, but she also shared with me many cultural insights. Remember when I said that the owner of the balik ekmek shop slapped me on the back because he was so happy I’d learnt how to compliment his food? That was all thanks to this tour. It helped me forge the building blocks which would make me me feel comfortable in my new home.

It truly was more than “just” a food tour.

“The beautiful thing about Istanbul,” Gonça told us when we were halfway through the tour, “is that people come here from all over Turkey, bringing their food, their culture, and even their tea with them. You can taste the whole country in just one city – isn’t that incredible?”

I promised Gonça that I wouldn’t write about the specific places that she had taken us to because they were all so special to her – and I completely understand. As such, in order to find the absolute best food places in Istanbul… you’re going to have to go on a tour with Culinary Backstreets.

“Be nosy, be invasive; experience all of the city in the deepest way you possibly can. Savour your food, connect with people, pop your head into stores even though it might feel scary. That’s the only way you can experience the real Istanbul.” – Gonça