I’m currently writing this article from one of my favourite cafes in Amman, absolutely devastated that my flight leaves tomorrow. When I first landed in Jordan, I felt super overwhelmed and couldn’t quite get to grips with it all – but over the next few weeks, the country somehow snuck in to steal my heart.
I’ve had the most incredible time in the city, and I put it all down to living like a local from the second I touched down. I had a solid base, I made local friends, and I ate some of the finest food in the world.
I have so much love for this country; I don’t even know where to begin.
How to Explore Amman, Jordan like a local
Explore the backstreets of Jabal Al-Weibdeh: One of the first things you’re going to want to do to acquaint yourself with the city is to wander through this artsy neighbourhood. Here, you’ll find colourful murals, boutique galleries, and hip cafes tucked away in quiet corners.
Discover the hidden gems of Al Balad: While downtown Amman can be bustling (see: overwhelming), take the time to explore its quieter corners. Wander through narrow alleyways, stumble upon hidden courtyards, and peek into centuries-old mosques and churches, living together in harmony.
Take a cooking class in a local home: Immerse yourself in Jordanian culture by learning to cook traditional dishes in a local home. Several organisations offer cooking classes where you can shop for ingredients in local markets and then prepare a meal with a Jordanian family – or just do what I did and ask someone.
Explore Jebel Al-Ashrafiyeh: This hillside neighbourhood offers stunning views of Amman’s skyline. Wander through its narrow streets, admire the colourful houses, and gorge yourself on halawa in the local cafes.
Visit Darat al Funun: This contemporary arts centre is tucked away in Jabal Al-Weibdeh and showcases exhibitions, workshops, and cultural events. It’s a hub for local artists and a great place to immerse yourself in Amman’s art scene.
Go on a street art scavenger hunt: Amman’s street art scene is thriving, with colourful murals adorning walls across the city. One of my favourites is near the 7Hills Skatepark, also known as the absolute best place in the whole city (my skates and I might be a little biased on this one).
Visit local markets: Explore places like the Al Balad Market (downtown) or Souk Jara (open-air market) to experience the hustle and bustle of daily life. You can find everything from fresh produce to handmade crafts, and I swear, one of the biggest challenges has to be simply trying to take in all of the colours and scents and sounds.
Try Jordanian cuisine: Obviously we knew this one was coming, but the age-old advice stands strong in Amman. Eat where the locals eat, seeking out street food stalls serving dishes like falafel, shawarma, mansaf, and kunafa. Personally, I simply spoke to locals who loved taking me to their favourite food places, making it the best way to see Amman.
Visit local hangout spots: Spend time in parks like Al Hussein Public Parks or Al Weibdeh Park, where locals gather for picnics, sports, and relaxation. If someone offers you tea, you should absolutely accept – this is one of the ways that I met all of my new Jordanian friends.
Where to Stay
Without a doubt, the only, and I mean ONLY place that you should stay in Amman is the Sydney Hotel. This is where I stayed throughout my entire visit and honestly, I wouldn’t have had it any other way.
At the end of a long day, returning to the Sydney Hotel felt a little like returning home. I was greeted by the same familiar faces, could resume my tea drinking in the warmth of the patio, and cwtch with Mr. John, the adorable white cat. I absolutely adore this place, and refuse to stay anywhere else in the city.
You might be wondering, Amy, why do you love this place so much? Well, let me break it down for you.
The staff are all super hospitable
Upon my arrival to Amman, the first thing I did was head to my hotel. This would become my first touch of Jordanian hospitality – and it just kept going. Genuinely, the staff do absolutely everything that they can for their guests and always go the extra mile, and nothing seemed to be too big a request. I felt thoroughly looked after, and their suggestions and ideas made navigating the city so much easier.
Plus, they fix every problem
This is a strange pointer to add to my list, I know – but it just shows how much the staff were able to help me during my visit, even with things that were completely unrelated to the hotel. For example, I explained my extremely niche problem of my slide blocks being too big for my new rollerskates (see what I mean, niche) and somehow, they were able to drill the metal and shave the plastic until everything fitted together perfectly. The skates worked amazingly, and I was so grateful that they had spent literal DAYS making everything work. Amazing amazing amazing.
The neighbourhood is ideal
Regardless of whether this if your first, second, or millionth time in Amman, the location of the Sydney Hotel is still going to be ideal. Located downtown between Rainbow Street and the Roman theatre, you never have to travel too far, and I always felt completely safe walking back by myself at night. The only issue? The hotel is surrounded by too many good cafes, where you’re no doubt going to whittle away the hours drinking delicious tea, snacking on more halawa, and enjoying the sheer beauty of the city.
The rooms are super comfortable
I was able to try out both the private rooms and the dorm rooms during my stay, and honestly, the quality remains incredibly high throughout both. Super comfortable beds, spotlessly clean rooms, and warm showers with good water pressure made returning to the hotel each night even more welcoming, and I swear, I slept like a king each night.
The breakfast was perfect
Each morning, I’d wake up to freshly cooked shakshuka or scrambled eggs, fresh fruit and veg, hummus, cheese, little cakes, and of course, steaming hot mugs of tea. This is actually where I tried Jordanian halawa for the first time, and as you can probably gather, it quickly became my new obsession. The dishes were brought out by some of the nicest ladies I’ve ever met, and the whole experience made mornings one of my favourite parts of the day.
The common room <3
Every afternoon after a tiring morning of exploration, I would sit in the common room and read, sipping endless cups of tea, and jamming along to the quiet but still epic playlist that they had. Honestly, Hilary Duff and traditional Jordanian tunes all on one playlist? Perfect. The common room also had a book exchange in multiple languages, board and card games, and the walls featured some truly beautiful paintings by the local artist Nasser Khurma. Plus, I ended up making some new friends in this wonderful space.
The patio <3 <3 <3
And talking of wonderful spaces, the little garden area in the patio was another place that I loved to return to and sip some tea. I’d kick back on the swing set every time – this was the spot that I did all of my diary writing, phone calls to home, and knafeh consumption (another dish I quickly decided was brought from the heavens).
Genuinely, the Sydney Hotel made my whole experience 1000 times better, and knowing that I had a comfortable bed in a safe area where the staff were super lovely was wonderful. Honestly, my stay would not have been anywhere near as great were it not for this place, my Jordanian home.
My Fairy Trail
As a side note, I would also like to recommend My Fairy Trail. This is actually run by the same Diya who runs the Sydney Hotel, and is a great way to organise your stay in Jordan. They offer a free personalised itinerary which you can then review and confirm with your local advisor, before heading out to discover off-the-beaten trails and hidden gems.
It makes the whole process of travelling such a diverse country so much easier, and you can rest assured knowing that you’ll be working with the best. Regardless of whether you’re a Jordan first-timer or well-versed expert, My Fairy Trail will help you to really find your feet.
How to Move Around
And now we come to the big question: how on earth does one travel such a country? Well personally, I went with Zaid Tours & Travel, and couldn’t have had a better experience.
I headed down to the south of the country for a few days, and then from outside Petra, I was picked up by Amer, a Bedouin guide with piercing blue-green eyes and impeccable vibes. Together, we drove all the way up to Amman, stopping off at Mount Nebo and Madaba along the way.
The car was super comfortable and cosy, and Amer had a seemingly endless supply of much-needed water. Throughout the trip, he regaled me with tidbits of wisdom and stories from his life, which I absolutely adored. One in particular was so descriptive and emotional that I can’t possibly retell it all here, but to be frank, it was one of the most beautiful things I’d ever heard and left me on the verge of tears. Honestly, I’d never heard such incredible storytelling whilst touring.
As we drove, Amer taught me about several different local music genres, and frankly, I loved every single one of them. One of Farid El Atrash’s songs did break my heart a little, but then when Al Rabia came up again later on in my trip, I felt like the Ultimate Local being able to recognise it.
The weather was perfect up on Mount Nebo, where I saw Moses’ burial site, one of the most famous mosaics in the world (incredible, honestly), and visited a church (my first in the Middle East!) with the jarring juxtaposition of handwoven Kashan rugs leading up the entrance. It was a great experience and I am so thankful to Zaid Tours & Travel for showing me around.
Amer gave me some great recommendations for the city, suggesting both food places and areas to be a little more wary about visiting. He was the first person to teach me about the origin story of the Rod of Asclepius, that Amman’s old name is Philadelphia (after the Macedonian ruler of the region, Ptolemy II Philadelphus), and that the absolute maximum price that I should be paying for Medjool dates (if you’re curious, the answer is 10jd for 1kg).
Honestly, Amer was one of the best guides (and drivers – I have no idea how he navigated such complex roads with ease) that I’ve ever had, and he fully prepared me for what to expect in the capital. Without his advice about the local street market and recommendations on key Arabic phrases to learn, I would have been fairly lost. Plus, I didn’t expect my guide to be the most interesting man on earth, but there we go.
On my next visit to Jordan (because believe me, I will be returning here to make Amman my home), I absolutely want to travel more with Zaid Tours & Travel. For example, I want to join their private tour of Eastern Jordan’s desert castles, go across to the Dead Sea, and go on a hiking trip around the Wadi Mujib Siq trail. They were incredible during my time in the country, and I will be reflecting on Amer’s stories all the way back to Wales. Amazing experience, amazing company.
Without a doubt, Amman (and Jordan as a whole) is one of the most incredible places I’ve ever visited: it’s filled with just so much life. I will absolutely miss it as I continue on my travels, but believe me, I’ll be back. The halawa is calling.