THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO ALBERTA, CANADA

For a whole month this year, I meandered around Alberta, Canada. Honestly, I can’t say that it was a particular dream of mine to live in the Prairies – even for a short amount of time – but it definitely served as the perfect base to venture out from and explore everything the state has to offer. Hands down, the two best places were Edmonton and the Rockies – and because of that, I spent a lot longer in the two areas than I thought I would. Thus, having ended up as practically a local, I am now a fount of knowledge about the best places to see in the state – and am here to share them with you.

 

EDMONTON – WHAT to do

The museum of Alberta

Whilst only recently opened (in October 2018), this museum is already full to the brim of interesting exhibitions focusing on human history and the natural world. It’s the perfect place to go on a date, where you can wander down the halls and gawk at the bug zoo, ending the trip with a coffee and a snack at their little cafe.The museum is relatively interactive, offering stations to really get involved in the history of Alberta – meaning that you can take time admiring your date as they admire the artefacts.

Elk Island National Park

As one of the most highly-rated places in Alberta, it’s no wonder that I kept returning to this gorgeous park during my time in the city. Easy to get to via car, you leave the skyscrapers and light pollution of Edmonton behind, only to be plunged into gorgeous clear starry views where wild bison, elk, and beavers run rife – making it a natural haven outside of the concrete city jungle. Whilst lovely to visit during the day, Elk Island National Park really comes to life during the darker hours when all of the night creatures come out to play – but watch out for the invisible herds of Satanic-looking buffalo, where the only light which reflects from them is concentrated in their terrifying and unblinking eyes.

The legislature building

Featuring the best architecture in the whole of Edmonton, the Legislature Building is a place of both aesthetic pleasure and historical and cultural significance. It’s a great place to wander around for a few hours, taking in the gorgeous stonework and perhaps even bathing in their outdoor wading pools, with regular tours offered inside the building. It is the place to go if you want to fangirl over the local politicians.

Terwillegar park

Frankly, Terwillegar is the only park in Edmonton actually worth going to. With trails polished to be perfect for hiking and cycling (yes that’s right, your girl who is terrified of bikes went cycling here!) and pathways to see old ranches and flower fields, it’s a really pretty place to visit. It’s also only a short distance from the North Saskatchewan River, a great location for picnicking and being swathed in mosquitos during the summer months.

St. Joseph’s Basilica

Due to the fact that Canada as an “established” country is only 152 years old, there are no churches that mirror the castle-cum-cathedrals that you get back in the UK. Instead, every religious building is resurrected with blueprints and cement – very disappointing when you come from somewhere like Wales. However, the St. Joseph’s Basilica is unlike the vast majority of Canadian cathedrals as it is designed mirroring the style of an old Galician iglesia. Regardless of religion, the basilica should definitely be at the top of every Edmonton travellers list.

Table top cafe

Unlike the other board game cafes in the city, here you only need to pay a seven dollar table fee each and you’re golden to stay the whole night. They offer sugary dishes such as waffles and chocolates to snack on whilst you play, along with somewhat healthier dishes such as Caesar salads. It feels like they have an endless supply of games, with their most popular being available as doubles or triples, so that they’re never out of that one game you want to try. A great place to spend a rainy afternoon, kick back on their leather chairs, drink some green tea, and beat your companion at Operation. It’s good fun.

Cat cafe on whyte

The purr-fect place to go for a date, the Cat Cafe on Whyte is the cutest way to get to know a cute stranger. The second you walk through the door, you’re confronted with a drink order board featuring puns about hot beverages, with cat-themed merchandise (or should that be, meow-rchandise?) and gifts. You pay in one-hour segments where you get unlimited beverages, and from there, you’re good to spend your time draped in small purring creatures (if said small purring creatures initiate the draping). Sit on the fluffy pink rug and dangle a bell toy over a kitten, or play a card game as a cat tail curls around your ankles. It’s a real adorable place to hang out and relax – and the more you return, the more stamps you get on your loyalty card (and the more names of the cute critters you’ll be able to throw out offhandedly). It’s purr-etty nice.

Whyte Avenue

White Ave is the shopping hub of Edmonton, filled with the cutest cafes, shops, and restaurants. One of my absolutely favourite places to go to in the whole of White Ave is Plato’s Closet, a franchise I hadn’t even heard about until I lived with the owner of the White Ave branch for a bit. They offer designer, high-quality goods at ridiculously low prices – I’m talking brand new Nike jackets for $10, and Lululemon sports bras for $5. Frankly, this store is the sole reason I found myself purchasing another suitcase in preparation for the journey home.

Go to a rodeo

Can you even say that you’ve visited Alberta if you haven’t been to a rodeo? Rodeos are rife across the prairies, especially in the summer – and are a heck of a lot of fun. Let yourself kick back on a hay stack as you watch some cowboys kick back on bulls and horses, or capture fleeing lambs with reins of rope. To really fit in, be sure to sport a cowboy hat or some stirrups – and perhaps even enter the rodeo yourself!

st. sava

This Serbian Orthodox Church often hosts events such as the Annual Serbian Day Festival, where you get to hang out with the locals, eat gorgeous handmade food originating from places such as the Ukraine and Estonia, and watch live music. The inside of the church itself is absolutely gorgeous, with brightly coloured hand-painted murals decorating each wall, and a large golden chandelier hanging amidst it all.

Edmonton – WHERE TO EAT

L2 GRILL

Starting off with one of the best food establishments in the city, L2 Grill is home to some of the best food in the state. Their fried calamari is the tastiest I have ever had, with the chef having perfected his mesquite black charcoal spice recipe after travelling across the globe studying the recipes of other high-ranking chefs. Following this, another one of my favourite dishes are the grilled jumbo prawns. Cooked in dark toasted sesame oil and preserved lemon and served with thin grilled asparagus, each bite transports you further to a far corner of the Med, where you don’t have to worry about forest fires or hoards of mosquitoes following you everywhere you go*.

Above all, my favourite dish on the whole menu is the Atlantic Salmon. Having grown up with a mother as a chef who specialises in Spanish seafood, salmon has always been a staple of my diet – one which I’ve tasted in every single way imaginable. And so, being practically a connoisseur of this fish, I am pretty happy to say that the version cooked up by the chefs at the L2 Grill is one of the best I have tried. Served with seasonal vegetables, lemon and chive potatoes, and apricot beurre blanc, the meal itself is quite filling – but regardless, I could gorge myself on the pistachio and herb gremolata endlessly until I burst. The gremolata is one of the best things about the dish, and is definitely the sort of relish I could imagine myself eating by the handfuls.

To finish a great meal at a great restaurant, order yourself a pudding from their dessert menu, and perhaps also a Woo Woo or a Blue Moon – both very sweet, and very addictive.

The Harvest Room at the Fairmont Macdonald

The Fairmont hotel chain is renowned across North America and the world as being some of the most prestigious and delicious places to go for afternoon tea. In an attempt to debunk this theory, I booked afternoon tea for myself and a date – and loved every second of it. The decor and interior are both absolutely stunning, with paintings that you can’t take your eyes off of, and cabinets filled with antique glass and leather-bound novels. The food itself consists of little bites which you can’t help but sit back and savour, with a selection of teas to complement it. Having been away from the UK for six months, I was exceedingly excited to try some proper scones again – and for the first time in all my scone-trying across the country, I wasn’t disappointed. With a harder exterior and a soft, fluffy inside, they’re the perfect teacake to have with some oolong or darjeeling – and for me, are easily the highlight.

Mai Vietnamese

Frankly, my absolute favourite part of this restaurant is the hand painted murals on the walls between the Leak heaven-and-earth Taoist design windows. They offer a glimpse into traditional Vietnam, depicting gorgeous landscapes dotted with tiny people, all under a soft pink haze. They are gorgeous, and I could have stared at them forever. In regards to food, I  highly recommend both their tofu and peanut sauce stir fry, and the chicken vermicelli – both exceedingly well-priced and filling dishes.

Churchill’s Fish and Chips

Being from Wales, I have grown up engulfed in British culture. It is for this reason that I was both shocked and amused when I walked into Churchill’s, to a room surrounded with tourist tea-towels of Aberystwyth and Kent, bagpipe music, and photographs of busy Oxford streets. It’s exceedingly disorientating to be bombarded with such a concentrated amount of British memorabilia – but for the same reason, it’s also pretty fun. Despite the interesting decor, the food served stays relatively true to what you’d find at a good Brighton chippie, with the only mushy peas in the whole country to actually replicate what I’d find back home. Strangely, it’s the sort of quirky place you immediately love.

Golden Rice Bowl

After searching the city for dumplings that actually taste good, I finally ended up at Golden Rice Bowl. A place famous for their dumplings, I was not let down – and found it to be a perfect place to hang out with friends and family. Tasty and filling, the dim sum dishes are perfect to share around as a group, with the green tea being free flowing and delicious. The staff are the friendliest, and the open plan, red-and-golden decor is welcoming enough to make you feel instantly at home.

tavern on whyte

Whilst definitely not a great place for holding long, deep conversations (it can be quite loud), it’s a lot of fun to visit for a trivia night or music bingo, where you can simply hang out and drink with some friends. Their poutine is the best I’ve had in Alberta, and their deep fried Mars bar speciality is absolutely gorgeous – even though it’s nothing if not pure fat and sugar.

Northern Chicken

This place serves the BEST chicken, with their flawless seasoning being the quality that really makes it. This is my favourite place to go to with family – the children can colour or wander whilst the adults gorge themselves on chicken wings and cheesy broccoli. It’s a pretty awesome place, and the modest decor made up of wooden benches and posters just adds to the appeal.

Say Uncle

One of Northern Chicken‘s partners, Say Uncle is another great place to hang out. Due to the fact that it is smaller, it is a more personal setting and therefore a perfect place for dates. Unlike their brother restaurant, they serve more than just chicken, with their sandwiches, burgers, and salads being some of the best dishes on offer.

Block 1912

The ideal place to hang out with friends, Block 1912 is a wide open space made up of large rounded tables (perfect for card games), shelves full of books you can take so long as you leave one of your own in their place, gorgeous herbal teas in fabric teabags, and rustic interior design. All these elements come together to welcome you into a warm place which feels like home, where you can take time out from your busy life to just sit back, beat everyone at Poker, and relax.

Crepe Works

Whilst definitely not the place you want to be going to on a diet, Crepe Works is a super cute little stall in the West Edmonton Mall which is famous for their savoury and sweet crepes. The ideal place to go for a sudden sugar rush, the snacks are all gorgeous and bound to leave you licking chocolate off your lips for hours.

Pho Xpress

A place filled with deeply addictive Vietnamese food, it’s super cute to hang out in and stuff yourself full of noodles. The restaurant itself is pretty, with the members of staff being the loveliest, and knowing exactly what sort of dish would be perfect for you to try. I have loved everything I’ve tried here – and frankly, I’m super sad that there isn’t one back in Wales. They also do gluten free!

Greek It Up

If you’re going to order food from anywhere in Edmonton, let it be Greek it Up. It’s one of the only places in the state that offers authentic Greek and Mediterranean food, and every item is absolutely gorgeous. Bonus points if you gorge yourself on their takeaway whilst draped across a sofa watching Mamma Mia.

 

EDMONTON – Where to stay

The Fantasyland Hotel

Honestly, one of the best things I did during my whole trip was stay at the Fantasyland. I had heard so much about this luxury hotel before visiting, and upon checking in I quickly realised that all the rumours were right – this really is the most incredible place in the state. Once I had arrived, I was lucky enough to be offered a tour of the hotel, an activity which blew my literal mind. The majority of their rooms are themed, with some local favourites being their Hollywood room, Princess room, Pirate room, and Space room. My personal favourite is their Western Room, due to the fact that the bed consists of a wooden horse cart, with a little cowboy leading the way from the front. Their truck room was another highlight – with a literal monster truck slap bang in the middle of the room, where you can also sleep in the cargo bed and even across the single bed that makes up the front interior of the truck.

Our own room was something else entirely – a gorgeous Canadian Cabin suite designed to mimic that of a classic North American cabin, plaid and all. With a fireplace, hot tub, and a plethora of super comfy places to sit down, the whole suite felt pretty homely. Every corner of the room seemed to have some sort of bear-themed structure in it – from the large bear statue opposite the bed to the lamps styled like trees with cubs climbing up them, even to the painting of a The Royal Canadian Mounted Police with the face and hands of a bear. For someone who absolutely adores these little four-legged creatures, I was in heaven. Snacking on hotel chocolates and drinking tiny bottles of Baileys and Grand Marniers from logo-plastered champagne flutes, submerged in a gorgeously luxurious hot tub, watching old Nickelodeon shows in the background, our first evening there was nothing short of perfect.

Due to the fact that I’d been living in a cold basement with a precarious shower during my time in Edmonton, it felt nothing sort of paradise to finally indulge in a gorgeous, warm, powerful shower, in a room designed to more or less be a wet room. Feeling like royalty to finally be awarded with warm running water, there is nothing I wanted to do less than ever leave the hotel.

The Fantasyland is situated in the West Edmonton Mall, meaning that it’s based in the very centre of the best things that the city has to offer. The rooms are unlike anywhere else I’d ever stayed before, and I know that when I inevitably return to Alberta, this hotel will be my first port of call.

BANFF – what to do

Lake Minnewanka

Whilst the whole of Banff is ridiculously photogenic, Lake Minnewanka is one of the best places to grab your #InstaWorthy photos, due to the gorgeous views and sheer lack of tourists (they’re all at Maligne Lake). The lake is the second longest lake in the mountain parks of the Canadian Rockies, and is framed by Mount Girouard, Mount Costigan, and Saddle Peak – all lending to an absolutely breathtaking view. The history of Minnewanka itself is really interesting, with it being stated that the indigenous Stoney Nakoda First Nations people called it ‘Minn-waki’ (Lake of the Spirits) because they respected and feared the lake for its resident spirits, with early European settlers later naming it ‘Devil’s Lake.’ Human habitation at Lake Minnewanka dates back 13,000 years – and you really do feel like you’re surrounded by so much history and so many stories.

Town of banff

No visit to Banff would be complete without even a peek into the town – a quirky little place where the Rocky Mountains dominate the skyline. The houses and hotels are all designed to replicate resort châteas, and the shops are mostly artisan and boutique. No town in the whole of Alberta is more likely to feel like you’re gracing the set of Chalet Girl.

The plain of six glaciers trail

Surprisingly difficult at places, the Plain of Six Glaciers takes you through all terrain – from walking along thin bits of rock jutting out of the mountains where you are merely hovering above a 300 foot drop, to dry, dessert-like places fuelled with humidity, to shallow lakes with powerful currents, to ice-covered peaks where one slip will have you on the other side of Mount Whyte. It’s a fun hike which will always take longer than you plan for it to (even if you give yourself a good six hours to hike to the top and back), offering some of the most divine views in the whole of Banff. Also, due to the fact that it’s not one of the most well-known trails in the area, you’re likely to only bump in to about two other tourists – perfect for the solitude that the mountains are so famous for offering.

Lake Louise

A place where the water is so blue, it looks as though it’s being seen through a Lightroom filter. I’ve never seen anything quite like it, and am still in awe every time I think back to the gorgeous colours of the lake. Apparently, the impressive colour comes from fine rock flour continually being carried forward by melt-water from the surrounding glaciers, where the particles become suspended in the water – in turn refracting blue and green wavelengths of light. Not only is the lake itself incredible, but the mountains framing it add onto this otherwise beautiful view to create some postcard-esque scene I’ve never seen before.

cascade ponds

Located not too far from Lake Minnewanka, these ponds are severely overlooked, and thus, are almost completely devoid of tourists. You can do a loop around the area, passing over cute wooden bridges and jumping between stream rocks, and are likely to run into wildlife of some sort. It’s a great place to go for a picnic, where you can spend time with your travel companions and reflect on all of the gorgeous sights you’ve seen over the course of your trip.

bow falls

Only at Bow Falls do you truly get to see the mighty power behind the Banff waterfalls. Loud and strong, they’re a truly incredible place to explore (although not get too close to). In 1953, the famous Marilyn Monroe film River of No Return featured the falls as a backdrop – so if you’ve ever wanted to create a 50s banger, now’s your chance.

Banff – WHERE TO EAT

The Plain Of Six Acres Teahouse

5.5km into the mountains is a little vegan teahouse, tucked away from the busyness of Lake Louise, 450m down. For the past 92 years people have been visiting, and sixty years ago a woman called Joy Kimball bought the property and raised her two daughters in the beautiful surroundings – with one of whom still running it. The supplies are either flown in by helicopters or carried in by horses and staff, with everything being made fresh on site each day by hand on propane stoves. The history of this place is just as impressive as their food, where each dish is absolutely gorgeous and made with love – and they have a cute mountain dog who always sits outside, ready to be petted. Along with the view, it’s the only thing that makes quite a hike worth it.

Banff ave brewing co

Located in the heart of Banff town, the Banff Ave Brewing Co is more than just beers. Their jerk chicken, nachos, and fish and chips are all absolutely gorgeous dishes – and great finger food for younger eaters! The place is always full of buzz and energy, and you can bet that there’s always people milling about.

Cow’s Icecream

Behold, the only establishment in the whole town which constantly has a long queue curving around the block. As it happens, the most famous ice-cream place is known as just that for a reason – all of their cones are absolutely stunning. They have velvety chocolate flavours, sweet and tangy flavours, and even sorbets which are suitable for those who need to be dairy free but still want to revel in their flavours. The queues move fast and the parlour should definitely be up there on your Banff bucket list.

magpie and stump

Frankly, Magpie and Stump is my favourite restaurant in the whole of Banff – solely because of the decor and atmosphere. The bright colours, eye-catching wall hangings, and mismatched furniture are only some of the things that first drew me to the restaurant – with the food being the staple that made me want to come back again and again. Each dish is absolutely delicious, usually with a small hint of spice to really give it that typical Mexican kick. To dive straight into what will no doubt be your favourite meal ever, I highly recommend the El Gordo Burrito.

 

JASPER – WHAT TO DO

Maligne Canyon

Before I went to Jasper, all the locals I met in Alberta had urged that I visited the famous Maligne Canyon. When I arrived and no doubt made a detour to check this place out, I wasn’t at all disappointed, and spent a good hour or two wandering around the craters and the falls. If you plan on taking photographs (and no one would blame you!), I strongly recommend that you pack a wide angle, 24mm – 35mm lens, as it will make your job of capturing the multiple light sources much easier.

The Jasper Skytram

Despite the fact that I was initially pretty apprehensive to go on the skytram because it was a grand total of $50 per person, I quickly realised that the experience was more than worth it. Built in 1964, the skytram flies to a height of 2,277 metres above sea level. The views are incredible, as you’re lifted above the town and get to glance out at the towns and the lakes and the mountains – and the destination is even better.

Whistlers mountain

The skytram takes you all the way up to Whistlers Mountain, where you can hike the last hour or so to the summit. Whilst pretty treacherous (or at least, it feels like it with the steep drops and blankets of black ice), you’re able to transport yourself from the crowds of town to the sudden solidarity of the mountains, with stunning views of mountains for miles.

Miette Hot Springs

One of the best places to go during the colder months, the hot springs offer some sort of relief from the -40°C weather outside. What could be better than swathing yourself in warm water whilst snow is falling around you, and you’re surrounded by views of the Fiddle River Valley?

Downtown Jasper

A lot smaller and less commercialised than the town in Banff, Jasper is an absolute gem of a place. Whilst still filled with artisan chocolate shops and souvenir shops where each item is made by hand, there’s a much smaller percentage of tourists that actually venture into the heart of it. With little brown wooden chalets dotted along the roads and towering mountains in the distance, it’s the ideal fairytale haven to stop for a coffee and take in the views.

The athabasca river

The Athabasca River is probably one of the hardest things on this list to miss, due to its sheer size and proximity to several major roads. It’s a great little place to stop and watch out for any mountain lions, wolves, caribou, beaver and bear that may have wandered too far – meaning that you can see the best wildlife of Alberta all in one fell swoop. Jasper Lake is my favourite part of the whole river, where the water is clear and blue and the horizon is pocked with mountains.

something else

One of the few places to actually sell Kombucha, this place really does follow its name and offer something of everything. The first time I visited, I ordered a Greek hummus and pita bread dish whereas my companion ordered good ol’ fish n’ chips – and despite the fact that they were two vastly different dishes from two vastly different corners of the earth, they were still both absolutely gorgeous. The wait staff are super friendly, and everything about this place screams “we are ready to welcome you.” It’s an awesome place, and one I will definitely revisit next time I’m in the Rockies.

Calgary – WHAT TO DO

Calgary tower

The Calgary Tower has been standing for over 50 years – which is practically millennia when compared to the otherwise short history of the country. The views at the top of the tower are absolutely gorgeous, spanning for miles out towards city views and distant mountains. The best time of day to go is at sunset, so that you get to watch the sky turn orange to pink up close – and then watch the city come alive as the buildings glow yellow.

prince’s island park

Set upon the Bow River, Prince’s Island Park is an urban park in the middle of the city. It offers a haven from the otherwise grey concrete jungle that is Calgary, a place which some may consider to lack the charm and personality that you may find in other places mentioned in this guide. The park is a super cute place to hang out and watch the world go by, where you’ll often be surrounded by events and seasonal celebrations. They have very pretty hiking trails and flower gardens, and is the best place to take photos for the #Gram.

devonian gardens

The Devonian Gardens are an indoor, climate-controlled park in the middle of the CORE Shopping Centre fourth floor. It’s a pretty neat place to visit, with the waterfalls, fountains, pools, Sun Garden, Quiet Garden, and woodland setting, along with sculptures and changing displays of flowers. The whole area is only 2.5 acres wide, but it’s filled with such a concentrated garden haven that it’s easily one of the best places in the city.

And so, have you guys ever visited Alberta, or plan on doing so? Let me know in the comments below! If you’re looking for more fun things to do in Banff, Alberta, check out my friend Mikaela’s post on things to do in Banff in the winter!

*I’m not even being dramatic (for once) when I talk about the mosquitos. They’re everywhere, all the time, and it’s horrifying and terrifying at the same time.

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