ULTIMATE GUIDE TO ICE-CREAM AND ISLAND-HOPPING IN CROATIA

I recently took a last-minute trip to Croatia, and truthfully I don’t think I’ve ever stepped into a place seeping with so much history, culture, and pure magic. It’s a place for escapism and immersion, and honestly, a place for falling in love – with your surroundings, with yourself, with life. It makes you want more and feel like you have everything at the same time. Thus, I bring you the land of contradictions and unsurpassable beauty. And ice-cream.

The island: ciovo

Don’t miss: Slatine

Situated in Split-Dalmatia county, Čiovo is a beautiful little island to the South of mainland Croatia. Almost completely deserted by tourists (other than vacationing Croatians), Slatine quickly became one of my favourite places on the whole island. Imagine endless stretches of pale pink beaches bordering a tranquil ancient town made up of little twee shops and old homes – and there you have it. It’s a perfect port for visiting nearby islands also, meaning that a day trip to Split couldn’t be easier from anywhere else.

Where to stay: Sea View Guest House

Two words: the views! Literally the most stunning views on possibly the whole island, and you have the opportunity to witness it from your own armchair. When we arrived, the owner galloped towards up with a beer in one hand and a bowl of anchovies in the other, and immediately started boasting about how lucky we were to have found the best place in Slatine. Honestly, I think he was right. Within the hour, his family had settled us in, brought out a plate of ham and a bottle of wine, and were trying to teach us “you are now family” in Croatian. It’s a special kind of luxury.

The city: Trogir

Don’t miss: the old town

Trogir itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, meaning that it is officially one of the most beautiful places on earth. Take a visit into the heart of the old town, with its winding cobblestone streets and fairytale castle and beautiful little ruins and tell me you haven’t fallen in love. Everything from the cafes to the people to the shadowing cathedrals renders this an incredibly gorgeous place, and I couldn’t imagine Croatia without it.

Where to go for ice-cream: Gelato Bar Bella

Okay, I admit – I really ate a ridiculous amount of ice-cream in Trogir. Honestly, I think I had between seven and eight to-go pots on a weekly basis. Whoops. However, because of this, I have also found myself becoming a connoisseur of good Trogirian ice-cream (much suffering was involved, you’re welcome). I tried so many different places for ice-cream, and yet Bella was 100% the best. They had a crazy amount of delicious flavours, and a million dairy-free ice-creams for people with completely messed up digestive systems like I. Also, the whole place has a distinctive 70s vibe which is hard not to love.

Where to stay: Palace Derossi

After leaving Slatine, we bunkered down in Trogir for a while at this lovely hotel run by three generations of the same family – and it was one of the best things we could have done. With stone walls to dated frescos to wooden bed frames, everything about our room screamed old traveller’s haven. The owners were some of the loveliest people I’ve ever met, and completely brought the place to life. Perfection in a hotel – I felt like I’d come home.

The city: Split

Don’t miss: Diocletian’s Palace

Half of the old town of Split is made entirely up of the ruined forth century AD palace, and it’s incredibly strange to step into. One second, you’re wandering the local market, and the next, you’re face-to-face with a granite sphinx and the backdrop for Game of Thrones. Yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site, this palace utterly discombobulated me and made me feel as though I’d stepped back into a time long forgotten. It’s pretty incredible, and with the constant surroundings of a cappella groups and violinists, the place is really brought to life.

Where to go for ice-cream: Slastičarna Riva

Slastičarna Riva is easily the best ice-cream place that I visited whilst in Split, and it’s not just because of the fact that they do these incredible waffle cones that take two whole hands to hold. When we arrived the first time, there was a large queue of locals waiting to view the sandcastle-stacked ice-cream – but boy, was it worth the wait. Creamy dairy-free dark chocolate and sharp berry ice-cream contrasted amongst the pistachio and coconut and every other gorgeous flavour you could want. Honestly, my mouth’s watering just thinking about it.

Where to stay: The Radisson Blu Resort and Spa

All the other places I’ve mentioned in this post so far have been quaint, family-run gorgeous little places, with old-town vibes and owners that gamble towards you with advice, care, and plates of food. The Radisson Blu was on an entirely different level to this. Think glass staircases and a massive open-plan reception with marble desks and black quartz side-rooms opening to spas and saunas. Fling on your new fluffy dressing gown and slippers as you wander your room, which opens up to a view of either the city or the sea. There’s a minibar (with coffee machine) and a walk-in-shower, and a whole hoard of other luxurious little extras you’re unlikely to find in a guest house. It’s a pretty sort of place that makes you feel energised when you return from a long day of exploring.

The island: Hvar

Don’t miss: local blue lagoon and Blue Cave

It was such an incredible experience to visit the Blue Cave, due to the fact that the water was a fluorescent blue and lit up when you waggled your fingers in it. Entering the cave was daunting, as the only way in was through a tiny dinghy-sized hole, meaning that we all had to duck right down as we entered in order to not lose our heads on the shiny rocks. It was such a highlight of my trip, and the tranquility once you reach the heart of the cave is unparalleled. In regards to the Blue Lagoon, it’s mainly just a stretch of solitude beach, with glistening pearl sand and water so clear you can see the bottom of the other side of the island as you peer out. You’re surrounded by goats and donkeys, with a tiny hut for drinks. If you want somewhere far from the amassment of tourists, this is the place to go.

Where to go for ice-cream: Icy Bar

There’s not an awful lot of places that actually serve ice-cream in Hvar, which made it even more gratifying when we finally came across Icy Bar. Not to be dramatic, but they serve possibly the best ice-cream I’ve ever tried – which is really saying something, I have evidently tried a lot. They have gorgeous unpronounceable flavours and a little kiosk lined with fresh fruit, and is just such a lovely place to venture to. The fact that it is right on the river is a massive plus, as from their you can either take a hike to the fortress, or a wander to the beach, or even go for a jog around their little forests. Perfection all round.

The city: Dubrovnik

Don’t miss: local ruins

Dubrovnik is the cultural hub of Croatia – can you honestly say you’ve visited the country if you haven’t at least touched down in its 16th century Placa? The local ruins are under heavy Greek and Roman influence, completely blurring the line as to where you are in the world. Take a visit to the ruins of Salona (where the 20,000 year old aqua-duct still unbelievably supplies water to the country), the roadside markets surrounding the Valley of River Neretva, or even the neighbouring country of Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you’re feeling extra adventurous and want to explore the ancient farmland of Croatia, take a hike to Rogotin (or Opuzen, Ploce, Metkovic.. they’re all within a stone’s throw away). It’s a fair distance from aforementioned places such as Trogir and Split, but completely worth it.

Where to go for ice-cream: Ice-cream Dubrovnik

Okay so their name is isn’t the most creative, but the ice-cream at Ice-cream Dubrovnik, situated in the old city, is honestly some of the best I’ve ever had. It’s mega thick and creamy, and they have so many dairy-free flavours (in both ice-cream and delicious sorbet) it’s a fair little haven. It’s right opposite the old port, rendering it the perfect place to stop and take in the views (it’s also overshadowed by the monasteries on the hill, making it the ideal place to get distracted as ice-cream drips down your hand).

The island: Vis

Don’t miss: Komiza

I literally watched the second Mamma Mia movie today and loved pointing out the fact that I’ve been to a bunch of the places featured whilst exploring this island. Komiza has only recently started to receive tourists, and everyone’s new favourite British blockbuster movie may just be the reason for it. However, despite all the hype, it stays a typical little Croatian island, having lost absolutely none of its original charm and charisma. The island of Vis itself is literally seething with history also – apparently it used to be a military base, where no one could visit or leave due to the fear that militia secrets would fall into the hands of the Croatian public. It’s all exceedingly interesting, and definitely the sort of place that seduces you with its stories.

Where to go for ice-cream: skor

I think you’re probably starting to realise right about now just how much ice-cream I actually consumed whilst on this trip (I obviously only did it so I could tell you guys, rather than because I’m simply an insanely gluttonous person). Regardless, when I found Skor in Hvar, I was on a high. I had travelled all day by speedboat and was feeling dizzy at the prospect of jumping back on after a full meal, so alas, ice-cream it was. The little stand outside the bar sold some truly stunning ice-cream, all textured and viscid. Some of the flavours were so sweet, they could really make that soft spot in your cheeks tingle. And I didn’t even have to witness it again as our speedboat literally flung us up and down in the air for eight solid hours.

Croatia is an utterly enticing country, leaving you charmed and light-headed from the beauty. Island-hopping from the mainland is definitely one of the best trips a person could take, even if you do find the temptation to eat your whole body weight in ice-cream slightly overpowering.

Have you guys ever visited the Croatian islands, or have any suggestions for places I may have missed from my list? If so, let me know in the comments below!

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