ONE MONTH ROAD TRIP ITINERARY FOR NORTHERN SPAIN

The very day that lockdown restrictions were lifted in Wales, I flew out to northern Spain. My girlfriend met me in Barcelona and we travelled for the next few months across Europe with no plans, no schedule, and nowhere to be – and man, it was one helluva adventure. From the dramatic rolling hills of A Coruña to the vibrant cityscapes of Bilbao to the caves of Arguedas – we fell in love with the north instantly.

After much editing and re-editing, I bring you the PERFECT 26-day travel guide to some of the most beautiful areas on earth, featuring the absolute best Spain group tours. You can thank me later.

ARGUEDAS – RECOMMENDED STAY: 2 DAYS

Arguedas is a teensy tiny little town nestled at the bottom of the Navarra mountain range, and is the perfect place to start off your trip. With a little over 2,000 inhabitants, the town itself isn’t exactly big – but there are some truly incredible gems tucked away if you only know where to look.

The town is gorgeous, with eagles and vultures in the sky and snakes on the ground and served on plates. I stayed here for a full week with the nicest family ever, and will think of the fairytale town with fondness. One of the kookiest highlights from my own trip was when I was crafting with the eldest child in the family when the loudest sound erupted from outside; I asked the kid about it and she said that it was “the bombs.” I assumed this was a joke – but as it happens, a couple hours later the mum explained that we were actually living on a military testing site. So be careful where you walk! 

LAS CUEVAS DE ARGUEDAS – Built several moons ago by inhabitants of Arguedas who couldn’t afford a house to live in, these caves are now vacated and open to explore. There’s never any tourists clogging up the pathways, and it is a truly incredible place to walk around and soak up history. At night these caves seem to glow an almost golden colour, and the surrounding hillsides are ideal for cycling or hiking, and lend to the most iconic views of gorges and forest. Whilst I was on one walk one afternoon around the caves, I had to stop to let a shepherd and his flock go past – and ended up being overtaken by approximately 150 sheep, who glared at me and rang the little bells on their necks. This may or may not have been the inspiration behind myself taking up a job as a goat herder several months later – but that’s a story for another day.

VISIT A GRANJA – I visited my first local granja with my host family, and it was one of the most incredible things I have ever seen. To start with, there was a gigantic pool that overlooked the golden caves which turned even more palatial as the sun began to set. I was shown how to collect eggs from chickens for the first time and was able to feed the rams by hand, and it really was an amazing experience. Plus, the air was thick and dusty, making the sunset even more dramatic and the whole experience more magical. If you get the opportunity at any point during your visit, you absolutely must visit a local granja – just be wary that at some point, you may get pulled into helping with the livestock tagging.

WOMEN’S WALL – No matter how hard I tried, I could not find the official name of this wall. Maybe it’s the local bombas that are detering the tourists? Either way, it is such a cool thing to see that I simply had to include it. In essence, it is a large brick wall painted with images of some of the most influential women of the past hundred years, from Malala to Earhart. It’s a pretty inspiring thing to stumble upon considering it is situated in this tiny, old-fashioned Spanish pueblo, and was the last thing I expected to see whilst ambling through the town. Plus, the smooth roads are perfect for exploring the town via rollerskates – everyone else is doing it, after all.

IGLESIA SAN ESTEBAN – Not only is this a really beautiful building, but the birds that flock to nest in the top of the tower are equally as stunning. When the sun is low and the air is sweet and there are hundreds of pelirrojos above your head, it’s kind of hard to feel anything negative.

EL BALCONICO DE LOS MOROS – Climb to the top of this grassy area, and you will be rewarded with arguably the best view of the town available. From way up here, you can glimpse the pelicans roosting in the church, the tiny ants of people minding about their business below, and of course, the distant mountain ranges and the yellow-topped roofs leading up to them. It’s all very pretty.

SENDAVIVA – Sendaviva is this gigantic adventure park filled with exotic animals and things to get really hands-on with. Myself and the eldest daughter went together on this terrifying tubing ride where we found ourselves high up in the Spanish hills overlooking millions of miles of bosque, sitting in a fragile little tube to be plunged through the air. It is absolutely petrifying, but fun; and as is typical of Arguedas, also very beautiful. They have slightly less spooky activities that you can also get involved in, such as pedalo riding and fake crab fishing, and all in all, it’s simply a great place to visit. 

ELIZONDO – RECOMMENDED STAY: 1 DAY

In Basque country, the name Elizondo means ‘house beside the church.’ The town itself is very quaint and full of typical old Spanish architecture; and is simply enchanting. One of the highlights of the town has to be Elizondo Bridge, which overlooks the Bidasoa River and the surrounding white-and-gold houses. Wander through the area and stop at a local cafe to try a glass of uva juice, dipping your olives in for the full experience; it is a delicious afternoon snack to try in the capital of the Baztan Valley. 

BAZTAN – RECOMMENDED STAY: 1 DAY

Baztan is a gorgeous little municipality full of waterfalls and forests and breathtaking views. One of the best things has to be undertaking a walk through the Valle de Baztan to visit the Cascada de Xorroxin, a beautiful hideaway waterfall which looks exactly like something right out of a fairytale.

From there, I cannot recommend anything better than a pit-stop for lunch in the little town of Arizkun. Pack up a picnic full of breads, pate, chorizo, and fuet, and wander through the quaint little streets of Errazu feeling fed and content.

BARDENAS REALES – RECOMMENDED STAY: 1 DAY

One of the only deserts in Europe – and easily the most breathtaking of them all – Bardenas Reales is probably one of my favourite places in the world. It is such a contrast from the lush, green surrounding hills of Navarra, and the badlands landscape is only made all that more impressive for it’s out-of-place-ness.

Look up and you will see golden eagles and Egyptian vultures, and look down and you might just glimpse a salamandre or even a wildcat. Castildetierra is one of the most iconic sites in the area, with the name translating to ‘castle of the earth.’ It was created many timelines ago by the placement of a rock on top of a fragile pyramid of earth, which over time has eroded to become the iconic site that it is today.

The landscape is reminiscent of old dinosaur movies, or movies about bloodthirsty Vikings (many A Game of Thrones scenes were filmed here). The pink sunset and the warm breeze  and the golden landscape all made for one helluva experience, and I will forever be in love with Bardenas. The clay, chalk, and sandstone formations are the most incredible I have ever seen in my life.

Along with Castildetierra, I also love El Barranco Grande, where you can stare at the insides of a canyon and run across the deep, dry gorges. There are several cave-like formations which you can flit between, losing yourself in chasms of stone and dust.

Also, the Spanish Air Force undertakes their training in this area, carrying out the bombings that would shake my host family’s house. The area is called Polígono de Tiro de las Bardenas, and to drive past it is pretty cool – just don’t get too close.

 

La Cabaña de Froilán

Froilán is the last inhabitant of the Bardenas, having recently turned 89 years old. No tourist sites seem to mention him, and the only glimpses and references I could obtain of his life were from my host family and a few scattered Spanish sites. As the story goes, his grandfather shared the same name and was a shepherd from the Pyrenean town of Urzainki, living an ancient and isolated was of life that this Junior Froilán still lives. He spends eight months a year in the same old stone hut that his father raised, sheltered by a hill in the Bardena Blanca. It is a modest home without electric light or chairs, but he is rich with health, his flock, and the nourishment of tradition. He possesses the immense wealth of those who need little, living in tune with nature and, arguably, the essence of life itself.

 

ZARAGOZA – RECOMMENDED STAY: 3 DAYS

Zaragoza is an ancient city which is believed to have been founded around 14BC. It is the only Roman city in the world to have featured the full name of the Roman Emperor Caesar Augustus. Nowadays, the city has some of the best features of popular Spanish cities – the artwork and random sculptures of Barcelona; the beautiful cafes of Madrid; the Hispano-Islamic architecture of Seville. Zaragoza really is a city that has everything.

ALJAFERÍA PALACE – Is one of the first sites that welcomed me to Zaragoza, and let me tell you that it was absolutely one of the best first impressions ever. Suddenly this imposing golden palace with gorgeous features of Islamic architecture peeked out of the foliage, growing more imposing and dramatic as the view gradually became clearer. Incorporating beautiful Mudéjar elements, over the past nine centuries this palace has been used to house Catholic Kings, military barracks, and the headquarters of parliament, which still lay here today.

THE ERBO RIVER – One of my favourite things to do in Zaragoza is to go for a walk along the riverside, following it as it snakes around banks of antiquated buildings. If you walk to the Puente de Piedra – a bridge made of stones, built in the 15th century – you are able to see one of the most incredible views of the basilica and the river. It’s also a lot of fun to sit in a secluded spot on the banks as little ducks swim past you and sunlight flitters through the trees. It’s all just very beautiful.

BASÍLICA DE NUESTRA SEÑORA – Easily my favourite thing in the whole of Zaragoza, this basílica is absolutely breathtaking. It has the most magnificent exterior – a mix of classical Islamic design and the typical white marble Catholic walls – and the surrounding square is the perfect place to stop for a coffee and take it all in. Inside is absolutely massive, and mass here is on a whole different level.

The baroque elements of this incredible cathedral come together to make it (in my opinion) the most beautiful part of the city. It is also said that this basilica was built on the spot where Jesus’ disciple, Santiago (AKA James), saw the Virgin Mary ascend to the top of a marble pillar.

TEATRO DE CAESARAUGUSTA – This Zaragoza Roman Theatre was built in the Age of Tiberius and Claudius in the 1st Century AD and had a grand capacity of 6,000 people. Whilst you can see the theatre easily from the street, there is also a museum which you can enter to learn more about the history and the excavation of this incredible site.

GALERÍA RICARDO OSTALE – Probably my favourite gallery in the whole of Spain, this gorgeous, albeit small, gallery, is filled to the brim with endless items from my own personal taste in art. From wooden masks to tiny metal sculptures to paintings of grand landscapes and beautiful people, it’s so easy to lose yourself for an hour or two. Plus, entrance is free!

CASA DEL LIBROS – This large, three storey store is filled with a comprehensive collection of modern Spanish books, along with translated retellings and originals. I read my way through ancient cities and forbidden lands, and tested out my fragile knowledge of Spanish in the kids section. Basically a Spanish Waterstones, it’s a sick bookstore.

TEA SHOP OF EAST WEST COMPANY – This tea company is dotted all across the country, and has to be one of my favourites out there. Whilst I visited many East and West company tea stores across endless Spanish cities, I think that this one had to be my favourite. Not only was it equipped with some of the best tea equipment money can buy, but the shop was also filled with many little tea tasters – which I was a tiny bit surprised about considering Spain is still in the centre of a pandemic. The staff was super, super lovely, and it really is just a pretty nice shop to check out.

EXTRA BEAUTIFUL BUILDINGS TO SEE – whilst I have spoken about some of my favourite spots that I spent a good amount of time in, there a few more buildings that I believe deserve a bit of attention, too. These are the Seo del Salvador, La Lonja, the Iglesia de San Juan de los Panetes, the Edificio de Correos, and the Arco del Deán.

RIBAFORADA – RECOMMENDED STAY: 1 DAY

A really pretty little town to stop for a few hours for a coffee or two, with beautiful old churches (such as the Parroquia San Bartolomé) and lush green walks through fields and across the nearby River Ebro. I spent about four days here, writing and reading and eating, and it was a lot of fun.

TUDELA – RECOMMENDED STAY: 2 DAYS

A very cute town with bustling bars and dilapidated antiquated buildings, reminiscent of a small Toledo. The town was initially founded by the Romans on Celt-Iberian settlements, and has grown into the second biggest city in the Navarra area. The architecture is one of the greatest lures of the city, with a range of Baroque, Renaissance, and Mudéjar buildings.

TORRE MONREAL – A little difficult to access but very cool. Built in the 13th century, this gothic-style defence tower is a slightly disjointed site in the more modern part of the city, and it is this very contrast that really draws people to it. It is the first dark room in Navarra, which Aristotle described as, ‘[a place where] light passes through a small hole cut in a dark room that is closed on all sides. On the wall opposite the hole you will see the image of what is [in front].’ What a man.

SAGRADO CORAZON DE JESÚS – A really enjoyable walk which lends to impressive views of the town, River Ebro, and the distant blue-tinged mountains. When you arrive at the top of the hill and can finally stare the statue in the face, he’s almost exactly like a smaller, less dramatic Christ the Redeemer.

 

LOCAL ARTWORK – Tudela, whilst quite small, is surprisingly artistic, with endless installations dotted across the town. Some of my current favourites are the Blue Woman mural on the back of a residential house, a wall thickly decorated with hundreds of security cameras, and a gigantic painting of a pigeon. 

CHURCHES – There are so many beautiful Roman churches and cathedrals in the area, all of which you are able to wander past in the Old Town  to take in the intricate exteriors. Two of the most impressive are the Iglesia de Santa María Magdalena and the Catedral de Tudela, but there are many others which might just steal your heart. 

PAMPLONA – RECOMMENDED STAY: 2 DAYS

Pamplona is probably best known for its San Fermín Festival, in which the infamous Running of the Bulls takes place. This festival was popularised in Ernest Hemingway’s novel The Sun Also Rises in 1926, and since then, thousands of people regularly come to the city each year to witness these events.

The city of Pamplona was founded in 75BC by Pompey, Julius Caesar’s favourite rival. The city was originally called Pompeiopolis or Pompaelo, and was used as a military settlement against the revolt against Rome. It’s a beautiful, historic city, and one that you absolutely cannot miss on your trip. 

IRUÑA CHURROS – A famous Ernest Hemingway hangout spot, this iconic cafe also sells the most divine, warm, crispy churros, with a front-row seat to the beautiful buildings dotted around the plaza. It is said that Hemingway loved the city much more than the city loved him, and when he returned to Pamplona after the publishing of his book, he was disappointed in how much it had all changed. He actually ended up committing suicide to coincide with the period of the San Fermín Festival – the one event which he had said was the perfect example of bravery and death. Coincidence? I think not.

ENCIERRO MONUMENT – A large statue depicting the Running of the Bulls, this iconic monument is definitely one that you need to see. The San Fermín Festival can be very controversial, and this monument shows both the best and the worst aspects of it in all its gory glory.

PAMPLONA CATHEDRAL – A beautiful cathedral which has replaced three previous churches that stood there before. This 15th century example of classical gothic architecture is where medieval Navarra kings were crowned and buried, and is a pretty cool place to visit – especially as it’s dead in the centre of the city (pun intended).

CITADEL OF PAMPLONA – Easily my favourite place in the whole of the city, this beautiful fortress is often considered to be the best in Spain. Built in the 16th century, the citadel is a perfect example of military architecture from the Spanish renaissance period, and as such, it is absolutely massive. Some of my favourite parts of the area include the Puerta del Socorro, the nearby Jardines de la Taconera, the gigantic nameless area that houses peacocks and turkeys and chickens and geese, and the Parque de la Vuelto del Castillo which was dotted with deer when we wandered past. Plus, the moat area with the crayfish and the tadpoles is also pretty sick.

  

VALOR CHOCOLATE – I kind of feel as though you can’t really say that you’ve been to northern Spain unless you’ve visited Valor Chocolate and tried one of their creamy hot chocolates or tasted a massive almendras chocolate bar. It’s such a staple of Navarra snackage, and is probably my favourite Spanish brand ever.

ELKAR BOOKSTORE – Because would this really be a Wandering Everywhere city guide without the bookstore recommendation? Whilst this is a bookshop brand that you can find in several spots across Spain, I’ve found that my favourite location has to be here, in Pamplona. Not only is it a pretty decent size, but they have some of the best Spanish titles out there that I could use to further my limited knowledge of the language – such as the much-loved Mortina.

LA COLMERIA BEE STORE – I can quite comfortably say that I have never been to a store dedicated wholly to the life and production of bee products, but let me tell you, I was not at all disappointed. La Colmeria is filled with beautiful propolis balms and wax candles and delicious honeys of all kinds, and the walls are dotted with stunning, in-depth posters and papers about bees. In the corner is a little lounge area with dozens of books about bees tucked away, and the owner is one of the nicest guys ever. All in all, it’s a pretty wonderful experience, and is definitely one of those places that you need to check out during your stay.

ESPECIALITE – For tea enthusiasts and the not-so-plussed alike, this tea shop is absolutely one of the top places to visit in the city. Not only do they sell approximately five billion combinations of tea, but they also sell the most beautiful teaware I have ever set my eyes upon. 

ICONIC BUILDINGS – Some of my favourite sites to have a gander around in the area include the Church of San Lorenzo, the Palacio de Navarra, the Plaza de Castillo, the Catedral de Santa María and the Arga River. The old town is thoroughly concentrated with beautiful antiquated buildings, and the more modern area of Ensanche arguably has the best cafes.

         

SAN SEBASTIÁN – RECOMMENDED STAY: 3 DAYS

San Sebastián is my favourite place for cafes, as they have so much choice. From divine-smelling panaderias to cute little ice-cream shops tucked alongside the river, there really is a whole abundance of wonderful places to stop at.

Capital of the Gipuzkoa province in Spain, San Sebastián (also known as Donostia) is a former fishing village, which became a popular spot for Spanish royalty in the 1800s. The cosmopolitan, high-class vibe continues to this day in its snazzy boutiques and quality restaurants, with the rustic still flourishing in the Parte Vieja. This mix of old and new, antique and metro, blended together to create one of my favourite Spanish cities ever.

PUNTO SAL – SUCH a cute place to go for a late lunch. Not only is their food delicious (especially their warm, crunchy bread), but the building itself is also pretty cool. With windows overlooking silvery rocks, it feels so much more private and personal. The staff is super lovely and helped me figure out which food I can and cannot eat due to my extensive list of food intolerances, and when we left, they gave us the cutest little paper origami crane. This is also where I tried the one and only Mucho Kombucha for the first time.

MUCHO KOMBUCHA – Locally made in Basque country, this delicious kombucha is very high in probiotics, amino acids, antioxidants, and vitamins, and completely rejuvenated me after a long few days of walking. It comes in four flavours but so far I have only tried two, with my favourite being the apple and ginger. I simply CANNOT recommend it enough.

ARGITAN CAFE – This cafe serves beautiful red tea that tastes almost exactly like pu’erh, and is located right by the river. It’s a great place to stop for a beverage break, as the sunlight falls upon the beautiful buildings around you, and brightens the river water to a pale emerald.

PAPPERINO IL GELATO – Not only is their ice-cream absolutely divine, but they also specialise in dairy free options – the first city we found in the north to actually cater to people like yours truly who cannot digest lactose and yet love ice-cream. I tried one of their dark chocolate cones and it was so deliciously smooth and creamy – and wonderfully lactose free.  It’s located real close to the beach, too, which makes it perfect to grab a cone and go for an afternoon stroll.

LA CONCHA AND ZURRIOLA BEACH – Arguably the two best beaches in San Sebastián. With sand that adheres to your body for months, translucent (if a little chilly) water, and views of the tall Jesus monument overlooking the city, these two stretches of sand are some of the main reasons why people visit the city. La Concha and Zurriola are both beautiful places to watch the sunset, as the grand buildings overlooking the beach turn a golden-pink and the locals all flock to the nearby gelaterias. If you get the chance to visit and the weather conditions aren’t ideal, make sure you bring some sailing wetsuits as these will keep you warm in the water and you can use them on any boat trips if you are planning on doing any. 

BAR AMAZONAS – Probably my favourite cafe location ever. Situated between my favourite bookstore (see below), a magnificent fountain surrounded by bright red and purple flowers, and tall golden art nouveau houses, I cannot think of a better place to run a bar. They serve the most delicious cold drinks, and it really is an ideal place to stop for a cheeky bevvy.

LIBRERÍA DONOSTI – The first place that I ever read an Anthony Bourdain book (!!!). The librería has low ceilings and is very cosy, and is absolutely stuffed full of beautiful books. They have a comprehensive collection of books in both English and Spanish, featuring everything from travel books to cookbooks to fantasy books to history books on influential Victorian women. It is definitely a good store to check out – and who knows, maybe you’ll discover a famous food and travel writer for the first time, too.

MY TEA – Probably my favourite tea shop in San Sebastián, My Tea has literally everything that a tea lover could ask for. From bombillas to matcha whisks to metal tea pots, to 119 different combinations of tea available to try, it’s a super cool place to have a little look around.

PARQUE DE CHRISTINA ENEA – A beautiful park with gorgeous green walks dotted with old ruins, it’s a great place to get away from the aforementioned La Concha crowds. The park is also known as ‘Gladys’, after a local neighbourhood ecologist called Gladys del Estal who was killed by the police during an anti-nuclear demonstration in Tudela, and San Sebastián saw it fitting to dedicate the space to her memory.

ENDLESS SIGHTS – Some of my other favourite things to see are the baby pink Maria Christina bridge, the imposing Good Shepherd of San Sebastián cathedral, the marble-esque San Sebastián City Hall, and, of course, the River Urumea.

BILBAO – RECOMMENDED STAY: 4 DAYS

Where do I even begin with talking about Bilbao? The capital of Basque country, with unmatched culture, art, natural beauty, and architectural buildings, it’s one of my favourite cities in Spain. Enigmatic and dynamic – and more than a little rough and tumble – this industrial city is constantly changing. It’s a multi-cultural urban centre, with people from all over the world emigrating here and adding their own new elements to the area.

The city underwent a population boom after the Guggenheim Museum was built, which helped to bring both people and recognition to the area. The idea of cultural investments leading to an economic uplift has since been copied worldwide, being called ‘the Bilbao effect.’ And oh boy, did it work.

The many different areas of the city all have completely different vibes and energies to them – such as the metropolitan Gran Vía, the slow and laid back Casco Vieja, the young and booming Doña Casilda, the intimidating San Francisco neighbourhood with its Red Light District and human trafficking. To really get a feel of Bilbao as a whole, you need to spend a decent amount of time really exploring each one, as they really are just all so different. Some of my per top places that you simply cannot miss on visiting out on are:

CASCO VIEJA – The old town, jam-packed with beautiful thin buildings, gorgeous antique shops, and the most adorable bookstores (such as Librería Libu) I have ever seen in my life. Some of the best cafes in the city are here, and I can’t imagine a better place to try pintxos than in the very heart of Bilbao. One of my favourite things in the area is the sheltered walkway which houses beautifully detailed painted ceilings, where you look up to find the most unexpected, intricate, heartfelt scenes. All of them gallery-worthy, stumbling upon these is bound to be a highlight.

TXAPELA TABERNA – For a city famous for its Pintxos, it’s no surprise that one of the top things to do in Bilbao is to simply gorge yourself silly on delicious food. One of my favourite places to do this is at the Txapela Taberna. Try their mouthwatering montaditos, their crispy calamares, their range of jamón, and explore the stone walls of this beautiful little building. Located right in the centre of the old town, it’s a cracking place to stop and fill your boots before heading off to explore.

LITTLE BEANS CAFE – The nicest little cafe which has many vegan and dairy-free options. After trying many local places to see whether or not I could consume any of their products (such as Yogurissimo, where I was promised by the staff that their mango and pineapple ice-cream was lactose free, just to buy a bowl and immediately become sick), I finally found this place. Whilst they serve lovely hot and cold beverages, their best products are easily the baked goods. Their brownies are so thick and dark and rich, I’m back to craving one whilst I write this. Plus, the staff are super nice, and were mega kind to me even when I messed up the order and ordered full dairy hot coco instead of rice milk.

MATCHA ESPRESSO – The name of the cafe is a little misleading, I will be honest with you. Having expected to rock up to some delicious matcha, I was a teensy bit disappointed to find that they actually serve zero of that ceremonial green powder. Saying that though, they serve one helluva collection of loose leaf teas, and they all smell absolutely gorgeous. The white tea is my favourite (and the staff humoured me as I went back to get the hot water refilled so I could try its second brewing), and my travel partner can attest to their espresso (the only half of their name title that they actually serve) being pretty good. Also, it’s located just off from the best park in the city, which I think is pretty convenient.

 

DOÑA CASILDA ITURRIZAR PARK  – The aforementioned best park in the city. It’s big, it’s vibrant, it has a large pond in the middle where seemingly every species of duck to ever exist goes for a paddle, and the quiet shaded areas feel all kinds of personal. It’s pretty close to the largest metropolitan area of the city, which makes it a nice retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city life.

BOHEMIAN LANE – Not to be extra but this was probably my favourite cafe in the WHOLE of northern Spain, no exaggeration. Due to the slight inconvenience of me not being able to consume lactose, finding hot cocos when I travel is extremely difficult. So I was pretty chuffed to happen upon this vegan cafe that makes the thickest, richest, and creamiest chocolate drinks with rice, oat, and soy milk, available in a full range of flavours. Not only are their hot chocolates delicious, but they also have a wide collection of teas – with a whole section of the board being dedicated to specialty teas under the names of famous jazz and soul singers such as Etta James, Nina Simone, Otis Redding, and Dusty Springfield. Plus, their baked goods are divine. What’s not to love?

GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM – The open hours of this classic museum are a little touch-and-go due to the current coronavirus pandemic, which makes travelling there a little difficult. However, if you find yourself on a Sunday when everything is closed, you can still roam the ground and visit the gigantic puppy made out of flowers (sculptured by THE Jeff Koons), or the large stack of silver balls known as the ‘Tall Tree & the Eye’ by Anish Kapoor.

There are hundreds upon hundreds of cool things to see in Bilbao, but I found that the best things we saw we had happened upon by chance. Some of these include the Puente Zubizuri, a soaring bridge designed by Santiago Calatrava overlooking the Nervión river, the Mercado de la Ribera, the Church of Saint Anthony the Great, Plaza Nueva, and the Cathedral de Santiago. 

LEÓN – RECOMMENDED STAY: 3 DAYS

The train ride out of the city sees the moodiest, snow-topped mountains, and it is such a contrast from the previous cityscapes. Pass through little towns like Ameyugo and Burgos, Carrión and Saldaña and Sahagún, and fall in love with the rustic Basque countryside.

As we travelled slowly through the north of Spain, each new Spanish city quickly became my favourite. For a while, San Sebastián was the number one contender, but the grittiness and real-ness of Bilbao overtook my favourite. But then our short time in León completely beat everywhere else for me – it had many aspects of my favourite bits from the other cities. It had the local vibes of Arguedas, the incredible architecture of Zaragoza, the personality of Bilbao, the cleanliness of San Sebastián, and the gorgeous bakeries of Pamplona. If I had to stay in one of cities for a prolonged amount of time, there is no doubt in my head that it would be Leòn. And here’s why.

León is dotted with Roman ruins, high-class stores, quaint cafes, and the most imposing religious buildings I have ever seen. It’s a city that seems to have everything, and it seems to only get bigger the more you learn about it. The capital of the Province of León, the city was founded around 29BC as a military encampment, and the Romans used it as a key city to transport gold to Rome. In 1188, the first Parliament in European was hosted here, making it a very influential city, and its ties to the Camino de Santiago only intensifies its religious roots. The city has survived many wars and religious takeovers, and its culture is blended from many different Roman, Mozarab, and Catholic influences.

HOLY COW – Because of course I’m going to start off this guide with ice-cream! Probably the best place to grab something sweet that actually has options for those who are lactose-free, their flavours are diverse and delicious. The staff is super lovely, and the fact that this is located right by some of the cutest bookstores in León is also a massive plus.

CATEDRAL DE LEÓN – One of the most relevant examples of classic Gothic architecture in Spain. Also nicknamed the ‘House of Light,’ this cathedral opened in 1205 and has been flourishing ever since. Initially built on the site of previous Roman baths, the cathedral was later turned into a palace by King Ordoño II. Now, the building is best known for its stained glass windows, which are considered to be some of the best preserved in Europe.

CONVENTO DE SAN MARCOS – One of the most important monuments of the Renaissance in Spain, this convent opened in 1716 to train young women to become nuns. It now operates as a very fancy hotel, but a small church and museum area are still open within it.

CAFETERÍA PEREGRINO – Arguably the best cafe in the city with its incredible view of the convent and its very affordable prices and complimentary biscuits. It’s the perfect place to stop and really take in the city.

  

CASA BOTINES – Designed by the one and only Antoni Gaudí, this is a beautiful example of Gothic revival architecture outside of Barcelona. This was one of the most unexpected and beautiful things that we stumbled upon in the city, and is definitely one of those places that you wish you could base your own house design on.

PLAZA MAYOR – León is home to some of the most delicious food – think rabas de calamares, paella marisco, and artisan breads – and it’s so easy to find a good place to sit down and eat in the plaza. The atmosphere becomes electric when the sun goes down, and it is the best place in the city to really soak up local life.

WALLS OF LEÓN – Quite possibly one of the oldest walls in Spain, this fortification was built to protect the Old Town in Roman Times. There’s actually not a whole lot of information available on these walls, except for the fact that they were almost certainly used for defence – but they’re one helluva sight and definitely something worth going out of your way to visit.

LUGO – RECOMMENDED STAY: 3 DAYS

Because it couldn’t possibly be a guide to northern Spain without featuring Galicia! For this post I’d only like to mention one city, due to the fact that I’m currently working on a road trip guide around the region and don’t want to drop too many spoilers.

Lugo is a beautiful Roman city founded originally by the Celts, and is the only city in the world to be surrounded by completely intact Roman walls. When it was conquered by Paullus Fabius Maximus in 13 BC it was renamed Lucus Augusti and was the chief town of the tribe of the Capori, an ancient Gallaecian peoples. The city has passed through so many hands and so many eras, I feel as though you could spend a year there and still not even scratch the surface of its long and complex history.

MURALLA ROMANA DE LUGO – The old Roman walls of Lugo are probably the top thing that people travel to the city to see, and with good reason. Constructed in the third century, these walls are listed under UNESCO’s World Heritage List as ‘the finest example of late Roman fortifications in western Europe.’ During the Middle Ages, pilgrims would pass through the gates of the Lugo walls in order to visit Santiago de Compostela, and now you can walk across the entire length of the walls. It’s super cool, and probably my favourite thing in the city.

There are ten gates in the walls, five of which were built during the Roman era. The two best preserved gates are the Porta Miña and the Porta Falsa – with the latter happening to be my favourite, as it still has its original vaulted arch. The rest of the gates are beautiful, with other popular ones being the Porta Nova, the Porta de Santiago, and the Porta de San Fernando.

PRAZA DE SANTA MARÍA – Probably my favourite area in Lugo, as it is a massive square filled with gorgeous cream-coloured gothic buildings erected in the Romanesque and Baroque style. In the dead centre of it all is the empowering Catedral de Santa María, built in the early 12th century on the top of an even older church from 722AD. The bell tower and the buttresses are some of the most imposing elements of the building, and the old Roman bridge which leads to the Murella opposite offers probably the best view of it all. All in all, it is absolutely one of the best things to visit in the area.

Also in the area is the Piscina Romana, an old Roman bath which is visible through a glass panel in the floor. The piscina had been uncovered only in 1960, and has been persevered very well since, with the mosaics in the remains still being very visible. It’s pretty cool to see.

SAN ROQUE ARCHEOLOGY CENTRE – Having travelled across northern Spain and been unable to visit a single archeological museum due to the coronavirus, I was pleasantly surprised to stumble upon this little gem. It’s quite little but it is free entry and the staff are super helpful and friendly – and it was SUCH an interesting place. It houses the remains of a large pond with two gargoyles still looking out from it centuries later, a ceramic kiln for manufacturing building materials, and preserved tombs. The evolution of the Roman town from its beginnings up to the end of the 5th century is evident in the finds, and it really is a cool place to visit.

CANELA BAKERY COFFEE – Located in the Praza Maior, this is the ideal place to stop for a quick drink whilst taking in the park and bustling shops around you. Their prices are probably the best in the city, as seven euros can get you a smoothie, delicious tea, bacon, eggs, and pancakes that taste like doughnut mix. What more could you want?

Northern Spain is easily one of my favourite places in the world, as there is just so much to see and do and fall in love with. I could have probably stayed for years, spending weeks on end in each individual place – but for a month’s itinerary, this is what I would recommend.

And as such, that concludes your 26-day road trip itinerary to northern Spain! Let me know in the comments below how the road trip goes!

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