LISBON: ON THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED BY

About a month ago, one of my best friends asked me if I fancied getting myself on a last- minute flight to Lisbon to join her family holiday. As she was aware of the fact that I run almost entirely on sheer impulsivity, it wasn’t questioned for a single second as to whether or not I would actually go through with it. Later the same night, for roughly the same price as a return flight from London to JFK, it was all booked.

Over the course of the week in Portugal, we dropped back from the rest of the group to see the real side of Lisboa – hanging out in ghettos, doing shots with the locals, and spending evenings dancing to live music in tiny squares. I quickly found myself fitting in with the locals – and here’s how.

WHERE TO EAT

Cafetaria Doce Da Madalena Lda is absolutely the best gem of a cafe in the whole of Lisbon. It is so randomly located that you’ll struggle to find it on Google maps, but the hunt will be worth it when you’re surrounded by jazzy live music, the most gorgeous cakes ever, locals congregating on the local square, and the cutest little outdoor staircase ever which leads to the world’s smallest bookstore. Sitting back on the steps and eating  pastel de Tentúgal whilst you take everything in will have you quickly falling in love with the place.

A Pousadinha is an adorable off-the-beaten-track bakery aimed at both pie fanatics and typical pastry weebs alike. They present the goods in classy little boxes which make you look as though you’ve just spent $400 on some fancy ass snacks, with the smell wafting through the cardboard and out onto the street being absolutely divine.

The Therapist is hands down the edgiest place I’ve ever been to; being a super cool, super unique, super interesting spot where you can stop for some gorgeous vegan food before gorging yourself in spa treatments and massages. Their menu is specialised to work towards aiding four main things: “mind, power, immunity, and detox.” Their menu is colour-coded to suit these four concepts, so that you can personalise exactly what it is that you want to gain from your meal. The whole place is mega wholesome, and the fact that they offer cheap procedures such as acupuncture and Indian head massages is something I rarely expect from a cafe. Awesome.

where to have the city all to yourself

The LX Factory is definitely one of the first places that educated Lisboa explorers flock towards – but they usually confine their visits to be between 9am and 5pm. Showcasing the best atmosphere in the whole city, the LX Factory is made up of a plethora of bars and restaurants and cute little artsy areas. One of the best things to do is grab a few drinks, catch a show, graffiti some walls, and dance throughout the night to a local band under the moonlight.

Martim Moniz is Lisbon’s very own Chinatown, and is made up of tiny streets featuring a delicate and harmonious balance of pedestrians, wobbly tuk tuks, pale blue trams, and fancy BMWs. Some of the cheapest food stuffs can be found here, and the run-down location means that tourists don’t tend to linger for very long.

The ghetto was the number one place that my travel companion and I kept getting drawn to – and you know that you’re not going to run into any other non-locais, as there’s nothing that scares off first-world tourists quite like poverty. Whilst it may not be an entirely safe pastime to wander around places like Anjos and Intendente at night, during the day they’re pretty awesome. Walk through the abandoned buildings and two-step drug dealers, and you’ll realise that it’s actually a really interesting place.

Hidden towns to visit

Sobreiro is one of those places that very few people know about. Located in the absolutely stunning town of Mafra (home to a really beautiful national place), it boasts an incredible history. The main attraction that tends to lead people to the town is its old traditional Portuguese village; where you can visit the quaint blue and white houses, a pretty little windmill and water pump system, and the old bars which are still up and running. The rest of the place is made up of charming farmhouses and tiny local-run stores where the locals remember you every time you go back. Magical.

Ericeira is officially the only seaside Portuguese town you need to visit – it’s absolutely gorgeous and the atmosphere is so laid back and pretty that it’s hard to not fall in love with the place instantly. With brightly painted houses and flower shops, it’s a Brighton-esque utopia.

Sintra is one of the top tourist hubs in Portugal – but you don’t need to stay on the beaten track. Stray away from the severely overpriced and touristy tuk tuks, you’ll be sure to wander into an authentic side of the city in no time. Walking the whole place by foot, you’ll walk past old palaces, castles, and run-down cottages. Very pretty.

Alfama Old Town is the sort of place that tourists adore during daylight, but tend to stay away from when the sun goes down – which is a massive shame as this old town only really comes alive at night. When the Feira Da Ladra ends (the thieves’ market – something you definitely have to go to), the real side of the province comes to light – with good music, good drink, and good company. If you need a place to stay in Lisbon, then there are plenty of options available online to choose from. Taking a look at travel blogs that share their own experiences of the area and their recommendations worth looking at.

And so, that summarises the absolute best places to stay off the beaten track in Lisbon, Portugal. What could be better than going to a place to find that you have it all to yourself, sunsets and farmhouses included, and thus end up seeing the real side of the city?

Have you guys ever been to any of these spots in Lisbon, or want to recommend a place or two that you consider to be off the beaten track? Let me know in the comments below!

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